Floranova advice

Akizzil

Well-Known Member
Hey guys! Haven't been on here in awhile.. But I'm getting my hands dirty again and need some advice. I'm using ffof 5gal. 1k hps. I just really need to know what ph to to mix my flora nova bloom at?? I've read from 5.5-6 to 7. Can anyone please give me some advice? I was thinking around 6.5-6.8? Any input would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks again
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
Are you in soil or soilless? If soilless, probably 5.8 to 6.2. If soil, a little higher, like 6.4-6.8.

What really matters is the ph of your medium. You should watch the ph of the runoff, and get a $50 Control Wizard Accurate 8 soil ph probe. If the soil turns acidic, you'll need to feed less and/or increase the PH of what you pour in. I.e., just pouring in a certain ph doesn't mean the soil's ph is ok.
 

Akizzil

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. Just haven't grown in awhile. I'm using fox farm ocean forest. I knew about the run off and what not. Just wasn't sure what what my nutrient mix of the flora nova should be ph'd at. But thanks again guys!
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Soil,,,pH all ingoing fluids to 6.5 and forget about it.

Don't bother with pHing the runoff. That's the pH of the runoff, not the soil.

Soil will self pH.
The same soil will meter the pH at different levels depending on the moisture content of the soil.

You water and it will rise. As it dries back out it will lower back down.
This "swing" in the pH will allow the proper amounts of macro and micro nutrient utilization.

Keeping your living bio's thriving will help regulate the pH.

I might trow in a hand full of dolomite lime per pot to that FFOF to help too.
 
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Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
throw away the floranova it is a horrible nutrient I used it and had little success it is much too concentrated you got to shake it for like 15 minutes at least to get the right consistency to get the proper nutes.
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
I never used lime before. Does it really make a difference?
Yes, but only if it's powdered. The coarser the texture, the less effective it is within the timeframe of a MJ plant. Pelletized dolomite might be good for a houseplant where the soil's in use for 2-3 years. Or, outdoor gardens. But, for a 3-4 month grow, it needs to be the texture of beach sand or finer. The finer the better. You can mash coarse dolomite into powder.

Use 1-2 Tbsp per gallon of soil. I've done a test (without a plant) and 8 Tbsp per gallon only raised the soil's ph another .02 compared to 2 Tbsp/gal. I'm not sure how a plant would like 8 Tbsp/gal, but you don't need to worry about using too much in the 2 Tbsp range.

It's also a source of magnesium and calcium.

FWIW: I disagree with @Yodaweed about measuring runoff ph. I agree that it's not very reliable and you're only seeing the wet ph, not the ph as it rises (as it dries). But, if your soil turns acidic (perhaps feeding too much and accumulating salts), you'll see that as a trend of the runoff becoming lower. It's either that or waiting for nutrient lockout to appear in the leaves. Watching runoff can give you a sense of where it's at if you see lockout. (Even better is the meter I mentioned.). The trick with measuring runoff is being consistent with how long you let the water saturate the soil before being displaced into runoff. The longer it sits the more it reaches equilibrium with the soil. You'll get a feel for how to interpret the runoff if you keep track of (or try to be consistent with) that saturation time. The official runoff process can be found by googling for "NCSU Pour-Thru Method."
 

Akizzil

Well-Known Member
@Yodaweed I like floranova. I've used a ton of different nutes. They all worked for me. Everyone got their own opinion/preference I guess... I think it's all about a lil "TLC" rather then what brand of nutes you use.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
az, I think you ment me on the pH thing.
What your doing takes time. At the scale of what I do, that's a thing that I can't spare.
I have not had a pH problem in years and years of simply doing what I suggested above.
Set it, and forget it. 6.5 everything that goes in. I'm sure not the only one that does!
If what you do works for you......GREAT, do it.
 

Akizzil

Well-Known Member
I agree. My buddy tried testing his runoff, had nothing but problems. I think if you ph it from the beginning, there should be no need to test runoff... But thanks for all input guys. I'm gonna stick with dr.who and go with the 6.5. Thanks bud
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
YES

As a side bar note:

Never let your soil get so dry that the plant "wilts". This condition WILL throw off your soils pH VERY quickly.
 

BubbaGumpHemp

Well-Known Member
i water my soil at 6.2 and in flower i will walk the PH up and down between about 6.1-6.5 the plant like it, helps utilize everything the soil has to offer. only walk it 0.1 at a time though as to not create unnecessary stress. all soil, strains and environment will vary so you need to see what the like best with your particular set up, once u know that then walk it up and down 0.2 from you butter zone. if thats too much work for you than do as the good doctor suggested and go with straight 6.5. (i found 6.5 was a little high for mine responded much better at 6.2-6.3)
 

Akizzil

Well-Known Member
Thank you sir. That's something I've never done also. I've always wondered but never did it. And the wilting, I try not to let it happen. I usually stick to schedule/routine to where that doesn't happen
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
@Dr. Who in between feeding, should I ph the plain water as well?
I've read low-ppm water is so unbuffered that the water will equalize to the soil's ph, not the other way around. I.e., the effect of ph 7.0 plain water will be negligible compared to ph 7.0 nutrient water (with ppm 800).

This makes sense to me because one drop of ph-down in plain RO water (ppm 20?) has the same effect of about 1/2 tsp in nutrient water.

If you use tap water or add calmag to get +200 ppm, maybe ph would have more effect.
 
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