Flushing vs. Not Flushing

bluemagicman

Well-Known Member
Hey RIU,
I have been reading some stuff that goes both ways about flushing recently, alot of people say to flush to force the plant to use excess chemicals in the soil and leafs and alot of people say don't because you are starving your plant when it's producing the most thc, well what i want to know is have any of you tried not flushing a plant and flushing one in the same grow? Results? Also I was thinking after all it's curing that breaks chlorophyl into thc right? So what do you think? I was gonna flush for 1 week with plain water and molasses
 

htroff420

Active Member
Ok so same as you I had wondered this question so I set out and used plain water to flush a plant 2 weeks before harvest. Then I used a flush solution on one starting 10 days before harvest and the other I fed up untill harvest. What I did find was that the one that was fed all the way had a stronger harsher smoke. The other two flushed tasted almost the same very minor differences which could have been with the strains not the way they were flushed. But after curing i can't say I've noticed a big difference in any of them. I had some buddy's over and we all did a blind taste testing of them all. And honestly no one was able to pinpoint which one when it was smoked. Personaly I will prolly just water a week before harvest anymore... I'm sure theirs many who will disagree
 

woodsmaneh!

Well-Known Member
Hey RIU,
I have been reading some stuff that goes both ways about flushing recently, alot of people say to flush to force the plant to use excess chemicals in the soil and leafs and alot of people say don't because you are starving your plant when it's producing the most thc, well what i want to know is have any of you tried not flushing a plant and flushing one in the same grow? Results? Also I was thinking after all it's curing that breaks chlorophyl into thc right? NO So what do you think? I was gonna flush for 1 week with plain water and molasses
Flushing can about in the early stages of the industry as a way to help people who don't know how to grow. Most people over feed and this is where flushing came into play. Curing will fix most over ferted plants. The key is to not dry it to fast because as soon as itn is dry every thing is locked in, so slow is the way to go.

I put the summery first, It is also backed up by science links attached.


Summary:

Pre-harvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress.
The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are losing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.

The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with pre-harvest flushing.

For one thing, the most common way that growers flush their crops is by giving their crops water that has no nutrients in it. But this doesn't fully cleanse your crops. It only starves your plants so they lose vigorous floral growth and resin percentages just before harvest. Other growers use flushing formulas that generally consist of a few chemicals that sometimes have the ability to pull a limited amount of residues out of your plants.


Nutrient fundamentals and uptake:

Until recently it was common thought that all nutrients are absorbed by plant roots as ions of mineral elements. However in newer studies more and more evidence emerged that additionally plant roots are capable of taking up complex organic molecules like amino acids directly thus bypassing the mineralization process.

The major nutrient uptake processes are:

1) Active transport mechanism into root hairs (the plant has to put energy in it, ATP driven) which is selective to some degree. This is one way the plant (being immobile) can adjust to the environment.

2) Passive transport (diffusion) through symplast to endodermis.

http://www.biol.sc.edu/courses/bio102/f99-3637.html

The claim only ‘chemical’ ferted plants need to be flushed should be taken with a grain of salt. Organic and synthetic ferted plants take up mineral ions alike, probably to a different degree though. Many influences play key roles in the taste and flavour of the final bud, like the nutrition balance and strength throughout the entire life cycle of the plant, the drying and curing process and other environmental conditions.

3) Active transport mechanism of organic molecules into root hairs via endocytosis.

Here is a simplified overview of nutrient functions:

Nitrogen is needed to build chlorophyll, amino acids, and proteins. Phosphorus is necessary for photosynthesis and other growth processes. Potassium is utilized to form sugar and starch and to activate enzymes. Magnesium also plays a role in activating enzymes and is part of chlorophyll. Calcium is used during cell growth and division and is part of the cell wall. Sulphur is part of amino acids and proteins.

Plants also require trace elements, which include boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese, sodium, zinc, molybdenum, nickel, cobalt, and silicon.

Copper, iron, and manganese are used in photosynthesis. Molybdenum, nickel, and cobalt are necessary for the movement of nitrogen in the plant. Boron is important for reproduction, while chlorine stimulates root growth and development. Sodium benefits the movement of water within the plant and zinc is needed for enzymes and used in auxins (organic plant hormones). Finally, silicon helps to build tough cell walls for better heat and drought tolerance.

http://www.sidwell.edu

You can get an idea from this how closely all the essential elements are involved in the many metabolic processes within the plant, often relying on each other.

Nutrient movement and mobility inside the plant:

Besides endocytosis, there are two major pathways inside the plant, the xylem and the phloem. When water and minerals are absorbed by plant roots, these substances must be transported up to the plant's stems and leaves for photosynthesis and further metabolic processes. This upward transport happens in the xylem. While the xylem is able to transport organic compounds, the phloem is much more adapted to do so.

The organic compounds thus originating in the leaves have to be moved throughout the plant, upwards and downwards, to where they are needed. This transport happens in the phloem. Compounds that are moving through the phloem are mostly:
Sugars as sugary saps, organic nitrogen compounds (amino acids and amides, ureides and legumes), hormones and proteins.

http://www.sirinet.net

Not all nutrient compounds are movable within the plant.

1) N, P, K, Mg and S are considered mobile: they can move up and down the plant in both xylem and phloem.
Deficiency appears on old leaves first.

2) Ca, Fe, Zn, Mo, B, Cu, Mn are considered immobile: they only move up the plant in the xylem.
Deficiency appears on new leaves first.

http://generalhorticulture.tamu.edu

Storage organelles:

Salts and organic metabolites can be stored in storage organelles. The most important storage organelle is the vacuole, which can contribute up to 90% of the cell volume. The majority of compounds found in the vacuole are sugars, polysaccharides, organic acids and proteins though.

http://jeb.biologists.org.pdf

Trans-location:

Now that the basics are explained, we can take a look at the trans-location process. It should be already clear that only mobile elements can be trans located through the phloem. Immobile elements can’t be trans located and are not more available to the plant for further metabolic processes and new plant growth.

Since flushing (in theory) induces a nutrient deficiency in the root-zone, the translocation process aids in the plants survival. Trans-location is transportation of assimilates through the phloem from source (a net exporter of assimilate) to sink (a net importer of assimilate). Sources are mostly mature fan leaves and sinks are mostly apical meristems, lateral meristem, fruit, seed and developing leaves etc.

You can see this by the yellowing and later dying of the mature fan leaves from the second day on after flushing started. Developing leaves, bud leaves and calyxes don’t serve as sources, they are sinks. Changes in those plant parts are due to the deficient immobile elements which start to indicate on new growth first.

Unfortunately, several metabolic processes are unable to take place anymore since other elements needed are no longer available (the immobile ones). This includes processes where nitrogen and phosphorus, which have likely the most impact on taste, are involved.

For example nitrogen: usually plants use nitrogen to form plant proteins. Enzyme systems rapidly reduce nitrate-N (NO3-) to compounds that are used to build amino-nitrogen which is the basis for amino acids. Amino acids are building blocks for proteins; most of them are plant enzymes responsible for all the chemical changes important for plant growth.

Sulphur and calcium among others have major roles in production and activating of proteins, thereby decreasing nitrate within the plant. Excess nitrate within the plant may result from unbalanced nutrition rather than an excess of nitrogen.

http://muextension.missouri.edu

Summary:

Pre-harvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress. The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are losing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.

The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with pre-harvest flushing.

Drying and curing (when done right) on the other hand have proved (In many studies) to have a major impact on taste and flavour, by breaking down chlorophylls and converting starches into sugars. Most attributes blamed on un-flushed buds may be the result of unbalanced nutrition and/or over fertilization and improper drying/curing.
 

bamfrivet

Well-Known Member
I am on a mission to get people away from the idea that you NEED to flush your plants 2 weeks before harvest. There are exceptions, but in general you don't need to do it. All it does is starve your plants, keeping them from producing to their full potential. A proper dry and cure will take care of any "fert" taste you get, which in most cases is actually chlorophyll still in the plant from not drying and curing the right way.

Now if it's in Hydro or soilless mediums, I have no idea about flushing

check out the link in my sig for some other myths
 

Encomium

Active Member
Flushing can about in the early stages of the industry as a way to help people who don't know how to grow. Most people over feed and this is where flushing came into play. Curing will fix most over ferted plants. The key is to not dry it to fast because as soon as itn is dry every thing is locked in, so slow is the way to go.

I put the summery first, It is also backed up by science links attached.
It's usually common courtesy to at least give props to the original authors or at the very least mention the fact that the info given was copy-pasted elsewhere (another rollitup thread no less). The part I quoted is the only original lines that you replied with. I guess at the very least helpful information is being transmitted. At any rate the original thread that woodsman semi quoted is HERE and written or amassed by Riddleme.
 

bluemagicman

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, so I think ill just use plain water and molasses for the last few waterings and use nutes up untill a week before harvest
 

htroff420

Active Member
Flushing can about in the early stages of the industry as a way to help people who don't know how to grow. Most people over feed and this is where flushing came into play. Curing will fix most over ferted plants. The key is to not dry it to fast because as soon as itn is dry every thing is locked in, so slow is the way to go.
Yo Homie where are these scientific links to go with it? I mean those links are cool and all, They explain what plants need and what not but we all pretty much get that. Im sorry if im blind but i couldn't find anything in those articles about pre-harvest flushing nor anything about flushing at all. Just an FYI from a BIO major those aren't scientific facts... In order to call something scientific facts the scientific method must be done. Where is this report at? that's the one that matters I want to know what steps were used to get to this conclusion; how many plants were involved in the experiment, what were the factors, did you use the same method on more than one to make sure? what kind of back up research was done, and finally where is the analysis of all of your data? like the tables or just plain facts from an experiment would be good! "Scientific links" HA
 

keifcake

Well-Known Member
No scientific evidence here, but ive had a couple recently that didnt get flushed because they suprisingly finished on me...
Cant remember what strains i didnt get to flush but it was withing the last month or so and i cant tell by smoking them...

In conclusion, ill never flush again, may cut back on nutes a little, but ill never flush again.. Whats the point? Everything i read about not flushing hasnt come to fruition, so as far as im concerned if the it crackels when it burns, gives you a headache, taste really bad, or is really harsh(just what i remember off the top of my head) is busted then theres no point.
 

htroff420

Active Member
woodsmaneh

Since flushing (in theory) induces a nutrient deficiency in the root-zone, the translocation process aids in the plants survival. Trans-location is transportation of assimilates through the phloem from source (a net exporter of assimilate) to sink (a net importer of assimilate). Sources are mostly mature fan leaves and sinks are mostly apical meristems, lateral meristem, fruit, seed and developing leaves etc.


Pre-harvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress. The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are losing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.
I like the first where it says "in theory" scientific proof huh?
And then a couple paragraphs later you say pre-harvest flushing puts the plants under stress? why is this a proven fact now but early it was in theory?
Im not trying to insult your intelligence just because you copied and pasted a bunch of shit Im just trying to understand your scientific facts that's all.
 

htroff420

Active Member
No scientific evidence here, but ive had a couple recently that didnt get flushed because they suprisingly finished on me...
Cant remember what strains i didnt get to flush but it was withing the last month or so and i cant tell by smoking them...

In conclusion, ill never flush again, may cut back on nutes a little, but ill never flush again.. Whats the point? Everything i read about not flushing hasnt come to fruition, so as far as im concerned if the it crackels when it burns, gives you a headache, taste really bad, or is really harsh(just what i remember off the top of my head) is busted then theres no point.
Completely with you I did this experiment and found that I couldn't notice shit, I'll just cut back on nutes that's about it
 

djruiner

Well-Known Member
Yo Homie where are these scientific links to go with it? I mean those links are cool and all, They explain what plants need and what not but we all pretty much get that. Im sorry if im blind but i couldn't find anything in those articles about pre-harvest flushing nor anything about flushing at all. Just an FYI from a BIO major those aren't scientific facts... In order to call something scientific facts the scientific method must be done. Where is this report at? that's the one that matters I want to know what steps were used to get to this conclusion; how many plants were involved in the experiment, what were the factors, did you use the same method on more than one to make sure? what kind of back up research was done, and finally where is the analysis of all of your data? like the tables or just plain facts from an experiment would be good! "Scientific links" HA
thats the problem...people are given scientific answers...but its so far over their head they choose to not do research on simple botany and just follow what kids on forums say is facts....the facts are given...its not our fault if your not willing to figure out the hows and whys of it all...this is what this world has come to...if you cant get an instant google answer...then its just not true. if you like i can surely break down the science of it all it in "forum terms"....but i dont see that doing any good...you will read it...then find one thing that seems a little off to you...then you will pick it apart with what you THINK is fact. maybe one day "bill nye the science guy" will do a show on marijuana cultivation and then maybe some people will get a clue. just glad im not smoking 90% of the shit grown from people on this site.
 

htroff420

Active Member
thats the problem...people are given scientific answers...but its so far over their head they choose to not do research on simple botany and just follow what kids on forums say is facts....the facts are given...its not our fault if your not willing to figure out the hows and whys of it all...this is what this world has come to...if you cant get an instant google answer...then its just not true. if you like i can surely break down the science of it all it in "forum terms"....but i dont see that doing any good...you will read it...then find one thing that seems a little off to you...then you will pick it apart with what you THINK is fact. maybe one day "bill nye the science guy" will do a show on marijuana cultivation and then maybe some people will get a clue. just glad im not smoking 90% of the shit grown from people on this site.
I feel ya brother that's why I always say if you wanna know what's best for you try different things because other people don't know shit. I only bicker because of the so called facts that are always thrown around.
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
What I do is stop the nutes about two weeks prior to harvest. Then just plain water up until harvest. It's basically a flush without doing a flush.
 

djruiner

Well-Known Member
I feel ya brother that's why I always say if you wanna know what's best for you try different things because other people don't know shit. I only bicker because of the so called facts that are always thrown around.
i take nothing as fact till i see it first hand...and from numerous experiments....some people flush their plant once..say it tastes great...so that must mean flushing is a fact. i research outside MJ forums for info...too much ego and myths that seem to go hand in hand with MJ...now some myths do have facts behind them..but then get twisted and distorted over time by people trying to pass along info that they dont understand. so before someone can claim something as facts...have visual experimental proof...from you and others...then your getting into facts and not myths. ive noticed when going by factual info i get the desired results...but while testing myths...and trust me ive tested and experimented with them all...that sometime it works and sometimes it dont. so a lot of these myths that people pass as facts are something they tried...and it happened to work that one time..so to them its a fact...while most of the other people dont get those results (example...flushing).
 

djruiner

Well-Known Member
What I do is stop the nutes about two weeks prior to harvest. Then just plain water up until harvest. It's basically a flush without doing a flush.
but your still depriving it of food and making it take its food from itself...so whats the difference?
 

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
but your still depriving it of food and making it take its food from itself...so whats the difference?
My thinking is that there are still nutes in the soil for the last 2 weeks. I don't make it a science. Sometimes I use nutes all the way through. Sometimes not.

I have flushed and not flushed. The buds I grow have never popped, smelled, or tasted different flushed or not so why go through the extra step.

I use nutes very sparingly anyway.
 

djruiner

Well-Known Member
My thinking is that there are still nutes in the soil for the last 2 weeks. I don't make it a science. Sometimes I use nutes all the way through. Sometimes not.

I have flushed and not flushed. The buds I grow have never popped, smelled, or tasted different flushed or not so why go through the extra step.

I use nutes very sparingly anyway.
enough nutes for a couple days sure....but not 2 weeks...not if your watering as usual..your going to wash the nutes out. but i agree with there being no difference between flushed and unflushed...other then the potency...if your stressing the hell out of your plant before harvest..your going to lose potency. but if your bud pops and crackles...is harsh...tastes bad...that has nothing to do with flushing..thats improper dry and cure...things get easily confused it seems
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
enough nutes for a couple days sure....but not 2 weeks...not if your watering as usual..your going to wash the nutes out. but i agree with there being no difference between flushed and unflushed...other then the potency...if your stressing the hell out of your plant before harvest..your going to lose potency. but if your bud pops and crackles...is harsh...tastes bad...that has nothing to do with flushing..thats improper dry and cure...things get easily confused it seems
I couldnt agree more. I too am the try it and see kind of guy, and i ran a test on 2 clones from the same Mother of DNA GENETICS SOUR CREAM, the only noticeable difference for me was pre-cure, nuted plants smoke was a little harsher than the "flushed" plant but the nuted one did have more flavour straight after drying, however once they had cured seperately in different jars for around 3weeks they pretty much were on par with each other. Stone was pretty much the same, but i will say that my nutes were good in N so they were very lush and green all the way through and only paled slightly on the flushed plant by harvest time.



J



J
 

keifcake

Well-Known Member
Completely with you I did this experiment and found that I couldn't notice shit, I'll just cut back on nutes that's about it
Exactly, i can buy into the fact it stresses them at the most crucial time, at least i do now. Ill never starve em again.
 

alphawolf.hack

New Member
i just water plain water last 2 weeks. i just wait till i see some water out the bottom them stop. i dont do the whole flush thing it just isnt necessary yeah it works but i dont think its a big enough difference. i think all taste comes from the cure
 
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