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Flushing With Molasses

Discussion in 'Harvesting And Curing' started by Drabarni, Dec 14, 2011.

  1.  
    Harrekin

    Harrekin Well-Known Member

    Are you fucking joking me? The majority of the actual experienced growers left this site long ago. Are you gonna try tell me that Riddlem3, Uncle Ben, Illumination and all those other cats that taught so many of the people on here are inexperienced?

    Keep tripping out, you're just showing how much of a fool you are.
     
  2.  
    KushDog

    KushDog Active Member


    If i was joking i would of said: your momma's so dumb she dont flush her hydro system.
     
  3.  
    KushDog

    KushDog Active Member

    Hydroponic systems need occasional flushing to remove salts and minerals that sometimes build up in the growing medium. As water is removed from the nutrient solution some salts can settle in the growing medium. If the problem is severe, you may see the white salts on the surface of the growing medium. These salts can be harmful to the plants. Additionally, flushing removes algae growth, root wastes and pathogens that may be concentrating in the system.


    Instructions


    Things You'll Need

    • Sponge
    • Tap water
    • pH meter or test strip
    Suggest Edits
      • 1 Unplug the pump and remove it from the nutrient tank. Empty the tank, using the nutrient solution to fertilize other plants whenever possible.
      • 2 Wipe out the nutrient tank with a damp sponge. Remove any traces of algae or other residue that clings to the tank.
      • 3 Fill the tank with tap water. Adjust the water pH to the same pH that you run your nutrient solution.
      • 4 Replace the pump and circulate the pH-adjusted water through the system on the same schedule that you run your nutrient solution on.
      • 5 Change the water daily, replacing it with pH-adjusted tap water. Run for three to five days or until the water remains clear. Unplug the pump before emptying the tank each time. Water the growing medium from the top daily to completely clean out the medium. This is only necessary for media-based systems.
      • 6 Unplug the pump again and remove all water from the system. Replace it with fresh nutrient solution. Start the pump again and continue your regular feeding schedule

        [h=2]Tips & Warnings[/h]

        • Flush the system for 24 hours whenever you change the nutrient solution and the longer flush will not be necessary.

        • Flush hydroponic plants whenever they show signs of distress.

        • A final flushing two weeks before the expected harvest date improves the flavor of hydroponic vegetables and herbs

     
  4.  
    rocknratm

    rocknratm Well-Known Member

    know not of hydro. soil, see other million threads now I fuck round in. right round baby right round
     
  5.  
    samchesser

    samchesser Active Member

    The two most true points I've read so far are there are more opinions than people and most experienced grower left this site long ago... i was just searching for some molasses info but I'll throw my two cents in on the flushing situation. Flushing is necessary and not at the same time. If you haev been pumping 1500ppm into your plant form day one, flushing would be a useful thing at the end. If you have been feeding moderately, probably not as necessary. If you don't have a ppm meter like me, if your tips are brown, your ppm is too high. about 900-1000ppm is right, I feed daily in coco with about 900 and water till 15% runoff so you basically just have the same solution in there constantly. The runoff cleans and out the old and brings in the new plus you are oxygenating the roots with the new water. One thing flushing does accomplish is that it encourages your plants to fade, meaning it is using up nutes inside your plant. Sometimes drying is one of the hardest things to do and if you have faded your plants, there is less chance you will dry them too fast and lock "the green" in and have your three month project smell like hay. I can say with experiene, i have flushed for 17 days with no effect on the flowers swelling the last several weeks and I am more comfortable drying faded plants as temps/humidity vary throughout the year. So to say the plants get starved is incorrect. I have also not flushed at all and not seen chemically buds. If you can't decide what to do, I would drop the ppm way down the last two weeks and then flush for a couple days before harvesting. Most experiecned grower use molasses, i am on here trying to determine how to use tap and molasses as I do not RO my water. Some people say the molasses increases yield but its hard to say since the flowers swell the last two weeks anyway unless you are doing a side by side. My grow currently is experiencing some filling in issues so I am going to throw in some molasses just for the hell of it. I can also throw in an unrelated point and say feeding a GH lucas formula, it is possible to hit 1g/watt. you don't need any witchcraft products, proper training of the main branches and a good root system before 12/12 is the most important. Some people call lucas cutting corners, I call it.... how much more than a gram a watt are you getting? Same or less? Thats what I thought. Peace!
     
    SonsOfAvery likes this.
  6.  
    sniffer

    sniffer Well-Known Member

    molasses is no good for hydro ,
    and in soil it takes about 5 weeks to break down , flushing with it does nothing
     
  7.  
    smallop

    smallop Active Member

  8.  
    samchesser

    samchesser Active Member

    5 weeks? I'm not condoning the use of molasses since I've never used it but I can disprove what you said with common sense. I am not a scientist but I have made beer and bread, both use sugar to feed the yeast which works immediately. The use of molasses in plants is to feed the microorganisms similar to yeast not to directly feed the plant. Therefore, i conclude that the molasses, which is a simple sugar, does not take 5 weeks to break down in the soil. As for it doing nothing, I have no idea.
     
  9.  
    bentley

    bentley Active Member

    I grow in canna coco and use canna coco nutes I also use molasses but I use it to feed the myco's i added when I transplant. The more food the myco's has to feed on the healthier your plants will be making buds bigger and frostier
     
  10.  
    Forrestfirebuds

    Forrestfirebuds Member

    I know this is an old post but I find thast my buds a way smoother when I cut them down after 24to 48 hours of darkness so that way no photosynthesis is happening. Less chlorophyll. Buds frost up more also
     

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