fungus gnats and ?

beardz

Active Member
Hey all,One week into flowering and got some problems, Ive seen some fungus gnats around my soil,In the last week or so one of the leaves got some tiny yellow spots/bugs on it now 3 more have its like a strip across the leaf.
Any ideas what they could be and what could get rid of them

But so far my other plant has no problems. Sorry no pics

Thanks B
 

RawBudzski

Well-Known Member
I dunno about strips, PIC would help. uhm,. gnats arnt to bad of a prob..more annoying. MITES will cause tiny webs and black dots on your leafs. But i dont know. Thats why i go Hydro. ONLY fking pests on hydro is a SLOW caterpillar once in a while(dont ask me how they do it) but most the Flying bugs Zap themselves in my 600w Hood ^^.
 

beardz

Active Member
Ok well if the gnats anit that bad makes me feel abit better,Il have to see how the yellow spots get on,Il sort a pic out if it gets worse.

thanks for replys Raw

B :leaf:
 

Brick Top

New Member
As long as there is a moist area for fungus gnats to lay eggs on they will breed prolifically. You need to remove any breeding areas or else you will fight them and fight them and fight them because even if you kill off all the adults there will be eggs waiting to hatch and then you're back to square one and have to start all over again.

Cover your soil with a layer of sand, as thick as you have room for. The sand will dry out fairly quickly after watering and it will deprive the gnats of good breeding/egg laying ground. There are various types of non-toxic/glue type bug strips, purchase a few packs and stick them around your grow area. The combination of loss of breeding ground and adults being trapped you will be rid of them fairly soon.

Another way to help, and sometimes speed up getting rid of fungus gnats, is after covering your soil with sand use something like a margarine tub, something with a top that seals, and place a moist paper towel in the bottom. Leave it for about three days and then put on the cover, seal it up and toss it and repeat with another similar container. By using the sand you removed their previous egg laying location but then you offer them a new one, the container with a moist paper towel in it. They go to it, lay their eggs, then you seal it and remove the eggs so they cannot hatch and become larvae and then more gnats. You break the breeding cycle and if you add the non-toxic glue traps you will be rid of them even faster.

More information about your other question would be useful, and pictures would be even better.
 

beardz

Active Member
Well i'll give the sand a go for the gnats 2moro,I looked on RIU about aphids before i posted but i cant see anythink that looks the same,I know it will be much better if there where pics try and sort that out aswell 2moro.

Thanks B :leaf:
 

oldschooltofu

Well-Known Member
sounds more like trips to me, only one of the three listed below that venture onto the leaves.

get some potatos, cut one in half and put it cut side down on the soil and press in a little. lift up in 24 hours later and look at it with a loop.
worm with black head in soil/flying black adult= gnats
fast bug (may see varius stages)/ silver streaks on leaves, little white worm on leaves = thrips
slow bug that looks like a tick in soil/ black flying adult = root aphids

all three will ruin your roots, your plants wont uptake nutrients properly, and you will loose about half if not more weight in your harvest.

i have been battling all three in a row this last year. serioiusly thinking of going DWC so i can monitor the roots better.
and prevention, prevention, prevention (BT, Spinosad for gnats and thrips)
 

beardz

Active Member
Ok Had a really good look at my plants 2day,I think i know what my problem is... simple where im getting the marks on the leaves the fan is making the tips of the above leaves rub.I think thats it.

But thanks for the help with gnats :-P

As you can tell new grower :dunce:
 

brianbertz

Well-Known Member
As long as there is a moist area for fungus gnats to lay eggs on they will breed prolifically. You need to remove any breeding areas or else you will fight them and fight them and fight them because even if you kill off all the adults there will be eggs waiting to hatch and then you're back to square one and have to start all over again.

Cover your soil with a layer of sand, as thick as you have room for. The sand will dry out fairly quickly after watering and it will deprive the gnats of good breeding/egg laying ground. There are various types of non-toxic/glue type bug strips, purchase a few packs and stick them around your grow area. The combination of loss of breeding ground and adults being trapped you will be rid of them fairly soon.

Another way to help, and sometimes speed up getting rid of fungus gnats, is after covering your soil with sand use something like a margarine tub, something with a top that seals, and place a moist paper towel in the bottom. Leave it for about three days and then put on the cover, seal it up and toss it and repeat with another similar container. By using the sand you removed their previous egg laying location but then you offer them a new one, the container with a moist paper towel in it. They go to it, lay their eggs, then you seal it and remove the eggs so they cannot hatch and become larvae and then more gnats. You break the breeding cycle and if you add the non-toxic glue traps you will be rid of them even faster.

More information about your other question would be useful, and pictures would be even better.
and used it in the soil and foliar spray. do you know if that stuff is good and how long until it will work? i also heard putting a jar of vinigar and little bit of dish soap in there will kill them? they are really messing up the leaves. thanks
i have a pretty bad gnat problem and i bought some azamax
 

brianbertz

Well-Known Member
Ok well if the gnats anit that bad makes me feel abit better,Il have to see how the yellow spots get on,Il sort a pic out if it gets worse.

thanks for replys Raw

B :leaf:
the fungus gnats lay eggs in the soil and when they hatch they eat at the roots and can cause brown spots like the ones on my leaves or cause the plant too look like it has deficiencys. thats what the dude at my indoor garden supply shop told me. they slowly kill the plant basically
 

Brick Top

New Member
and used it in the soil and foliar spray. do you know if that stuff is good and how long until it will work? i also heard putting a jar of vinigar and little bit of dish soap in there will kill them? they are really messing up the leaves. thanks
i have a pretty bad gnat problem and i bought some azamax
I can't tell you about how well the stuff you were told about works or lasts. I heard about the vinegar and soap thing and I tried it once and I never found a single gnat trapped in it. Maybe mine had more sophisticated taste and would have preferred some other liquid, like wine, but it didn't work for me.

The thing is you have to break the breeding cycle. If you used a bug bomb, which I would NEVER suggest, you could kill every living fungus gnat but soon you would have more because there will be eggs that hatch.

You have to deny them breeding grounds one way or another. As thick f a layer of sand on top of your soil will keep them from using your soil and then offering them an easy place to breed, like a container with a moist paper towel or even a potato cut in half, will draw them to it to lay their eggs and then every few days you cover it, toss it and replace it with another easy egg laying location. That will break the breeding cycle because all their eggs will be trapped and thrown out ... and if you watch and time it right when you cover the container you will have a good chance of catching a good number of live ones in the act of laying eggs so you can reduce the numbers of live ones too. Add the non-toxic glue strips, I believe Black Flag makes some, and that's the best advice I can give you.
 

jewgrow

Well-Known Member
I can't tel you about how well the stuff you were told about works or lasts. I heard about the vinegar and soap thing and I tried it once and I never found a single gnat trapped in it. Maybe mine had more sophisticated taste and would have preferred some other liquid, like wine, but it didn't work for me.

The thing is you have to break the breeding cycle. If you used a bug bomb, which I would NEVER suggest, you could kill every living fungus gnat but soon you would have more because there will be eggs that hatch.

You have to deny them breeding grounds one way or another. As thick f a layer of sand on top of your soil will keep them from using your soil and then offering them an easy place to breed, like a container with a moist paper towel or even a potato cut in half, will draw them to it to lay their eggs and then every few days you cover it, toss it and replace it with another easy egg laying location. That will break the breeding cycle because all their eggs will be trapped and thrown out ... and if you watch and time it right when you cover the container you will have a good chance of catching a good number of live ones in the act of laying eggs so you can reduce the numbers of live ones too. Add the non-toxic glue strips, I believe Black Flag makes some, and that's the best advice I can give you.

T
Love the avatar, love the post
 

pelt1

Well-Known Member
POTATOES MUST WORK!!!!

About 4-5 days ago I purchased two potatoes. Every few hours( 4-8 ), I cut off a small section, maybe a piece 2 inch in diameter, and about a half inch thick, and dropped it directly on the top of the soil. I would throw out this slice of potatoe every few hours, and each time it would seem like I would see fewer and fewer gnats. But I felt like that was all in my head.

Well, today was the first day that I haven't seen a gnat when I opened my door, since I started my grow. That could be coincidence and maybe they all were sleeping somewhere? But I'll continue to lay the potoatoes out at least till I use up my last potatoe, which should last me another two days.
 
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