And for good reason. It doesn't seem like anyone is able to convince you but I will say.. The 6/750 is smashing my 1k raptors with 8 foot ceiling. I have 1k gavitas in a 9 foot room and for my growing style they don't work . Too close to the canopy . Less yield than raptor 1ks
No, I am convinced! I dont like to get married to ideas when I don't have much experience =)
Yeah I saw that, unfortunately runoff to the lawn isn't something I am comfortable with. I do have a sink that I could pump to though!
I don't think a pump to evacuate run off is going to work in this situation. The feeds are automated. So, unless you were to automate the drain pump also, it wouldn't be a good idea.
Yeah you got it, instead of those end caps, connect both lenghts together. The one in the pic is from a 4x8 table. I do it a little different in 4x8's.
Those have been out for quite a while, and I've never even considered using them. I can just see them getting clogged up, and killing allot of plants.
I actually would use RO water, I use RO water anyways for my drinking water.Those have been out for quite a while, and I've never even considered using them. I can just see them getting clogged up, and killing allot of plants.
Hardware stores usually sell 1/2" inline filters(no pic today, they are in use at different location)
If you have the inline filter installed, don't have too crazy of hard water, and you don't use organics or semi-organics(i like maxibloom), clogs are very rare
Question for you:
Do you already grow? If so, in what medium?
Yeah, I was being lazy when I asked the previous question, found the answer with a simple search
Fax farm OF soil will only last you so long. Usually about three weeks, until you need to start feeding. Transplanting into new soil gives the plants a little more time before needing fed, but you can only up-pot so many times. So I say go rite to a soiless like promix hp. It's ready rite out the bale(needs broken up a little bit but no biggie)no extra perlite needed, nothin. But plants in promix need fed right away. I like an easy 1-part like GH's maxi or their floranova. If your starting water is decent, no extra nutrient or additive is needed to grow the biggest and best bud the genetics you have allow. Don't play the additive game!Yeah, I was being lazy when I asked the previous question, found the answer with a simple search
You know, since I haven't grown in a while I think it may be best for me to start off smaller than my original plan for the first run...I would hate to buy/do all that work just to face a bunch of issues due to inexperience.
I think it would be best for me to start out with soil...any suggestions on the following are much appreciated!
750 watt HPS (I am guessing this would need to be air cooled as well?)
3x4 or 4x4 tent
Fox farm soil
Seperate shelf/tent for seedlings/clones
Exhaust system
pH meter
Temp/RH meter
I know the above doesn't include strain/veg time/flower time but I just want to give a basic run down of the environment. I do need to see if additional ferts will be needed as well as if I should add other items, such as perlite, to the base media. Any other suggestions?
Thanks again bro, really appreciate it!
Well there is another reason too...significant other doesn't want ANY hydro, only soil...actually that's the main reason. Shes doesn't understand and refuses to even learn about hydro. I just didn't want to cop to it earlier =)
There's a DE out now that does a solid 4'x4' footprint. It doesn't throw the light out light regular hoods. It's a deep hood. It's supposed to keep the footprint tighter. It's 120v too! Nanolux makes them.Yes, a run-to-waste sog setup
The tray/s would only need to be about 6" off the ground, basically just high enough to accommodate drain fitting and an elbow. This is assuming you can pipe the drainage out of the growroom this way.
Couple that with the DE setup i'm talking about, it's doable. I do it at one of my setups
16 plants per 4'x4' tray. A basket drip stake per plant(2 is safer though). I prefer 1 gal mesh bottom pots with coco. But have done it with other media many times.
If you can mount the hood(without ballast, or that nanolux) directly to eye bolts in the ceiling: between the fixture and the 3' space needed, that's a little less than 4'. Leaves you a little more than 4' for tray and plants
I have been running phantom 1000 de under 8 foot ceilings for 3 years now and now bought a gavita 1000 de To get enough space I have 2 lowboy 40 gallon resiviors under my 4x4 tables My 4x4 tables sit 13.5 inches off the floor my phantoms with good air circulation you could put lights 2 feet over canopy but I still would go 3 feet which will allow 30 to 36 inch plants Switching from air cooled hoods and regular hps a pound per table was the norm but with my phantom de 1000 my yield went up to 1.5 pounds a table . With my gavita 1000 de they recommend 40 inches between light and canopy I expect 2 pound tables with gavita i will update when i have proof
I don't believe so, many would prob disagree. It also depends on your setup and goals. Gavita's new led and Spyder fixtures are the only ones I see coming even close to a de hps and I still don't believe that your going to pull the same yield per sq ft. Doesn't mean you can't pull the same yield you just need more floor space to do it, so if you had a big room but didn't have the electrical capacity to use all de 1k fixtures you could use led to light up more space with the same watts resulting in lower yield per sq ft but more sq ft of canopy allowing for good yield. Hopefully this makes sense and it's just my opinion some of the led guys will swear it's possible to get same yield per sq ft but I've yet to see any credible results that show that to be true.
Well my tent run I pulled 15.5 zipz out of a 2x4 with 3 runts in an 8 plant run. I think if those runts had been bigger it would have been at least 3 zips more so. That impressed me so much with quality and yield that I decided to build 6 lights to replace my DE's in the daytime flowering room to help with heat. So we shall see but I used to think just like you on the LED.
