giving defoliation during flower a try

tekdc911 said:

they were so slow growing after a 3 month veg i didnt expect them to explode like they did :/


@Unckle ben
is this a iron issue ?
im in peat mostly ...... fed micro nutes .... 4-16-15 ..... mild humic acid ...... top dressed lime ..... fed again with micro nutes
i figured it was iron its just on the leaves ........ but the airlayer clone started doing it and its in soil so i have no idea ..... starting to think is genetic
3 weeks into flower ......

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Way too low in N, veg or not. What's the trace element profile like?

Nute companies don't tell me anything unless they are non-cannabis specific, then I listen to what they have to say.

If you have PM problems then look into using a fungicide labeled for consumables. Myclobutanil is great. Captan is effective for PM.

4-15-12
.30% iron
.05 zinc
as my base

this is the bloom feed im running
also using a granule 8-8-8 in my peat mix
leaves are dark green pretty sure i have enough N
im also randomly using grandma enggy's humic acid
some lime , and epsom salt when needed

medium is , peat ,perlite,a couple handfuls of super soil and worm castings , 8-8-8 granules

its not showing on the stems just in the leaf veins, basically just like the pic on the upper parts of the plant

Uncle Ben said:

Nute companies don't tell me anything unless they are non-cannabis specific, then I listen to what they have to say.

If you have PM problems then look into using a fungicide labeled for consumables. Myclobutanil is great. Captan is effective for PM.

Click to expand...

ya i just needed to nip the problem in the bud so to speak
i will get my hands on some of that for my F3 run

pandorasboxg said:

not true depends on thow many watts your using in your room. i have produced good buds more than 3 feet from a bulb... at that rate i woud be getting just a couple plants. i filled a 10X20 room with 2 1k lights and 2 600w and a few led pannels lights and it worked great there were entire plants more than 3 feet from a bulb

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add the distance between the bulb and the plant for safety, didn't think I needed to add that as it should have been implied, but for pandora sometimes you need to be specific. And yes with many light sources the light intensity goes up as does the overlap coverage.

Keep in mind that at the distance of more than 3 feet (3.6 if 400 watt, 4ft for 600 watt, 5.5 ft from 1000 watt) the inverse square law says the light might be bright but the energy, lumens, intensity has fallen to almost unusable to produce anything but larf indoors.

To help understand, look at this reptile light uvb intensity meter and the distance from the source of light energy.

Best example showing inverse square law and light intensity at different distances. Inside this is what your plants see as light energy from your lights, ie their food and ability to use said light in photosynthesis. Also remember this is not about if you can grow buds far from the light source, it is a question of what quality will said branches produce per square foot and that yields quality at said distance.
Nobody wants to trim larf if they could instead trim weight.\
It's the space between.

Pepe le skunk said:

Best example showing inverse square law and light intensity at different distances. Inside this is what your plants see as light energy from your lights, ie their food and ability to use said light in photosynthesis. Also remember this is not about if you can grow buds far from the light source, it is a question of what quality will said branches produce per square foot and that yields quality at said distance.
Nobody wants to trim larf if they could instead trim weight.\

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yada yada yada....

So you'd call those very dense lower budsites of mine "larf", especially photos 4-6, deep in the non lit abyss of my garden? Gawd this is a hoot. Here, I'll link you guys again but you'll still come back with the same old misguided paradigms - https://www.rollitup.org/t/no-lower-budsites-do-not-need-light-to-develop-get-educated.829061/

The buds at the bottom are heavier in weight than many grow up top under their wonderful super duper spectrum macho lights as they chant inverse laws and stuff. That kind of "quality" works for me.

well your whole plant is like 18" tall, and you clearly have no concept of canopy management or indoor lighting.

only your first pic shows lower bud sites; the second pic are a bunch of uneven tops that should be level with the "main" cola, and the rest are just main colas.

Uncle Ben said:

wonderful super duper spectrum macho lights as they chant inverse laws

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Pro tomato grower with 4200 x 1000watt Gavita HPS:


But somehow when used indoors in a closet or room the photons disappear after traveling 3 feet

I would not remove anything from that little plant. but if you want to try it do it. then you will know the diff.

Hydroburn said:

well your whole plant is like 18" tall, and you clearly have no concept of canopy management or indoor lighting.

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You, a DWC nerd with no meaningful threads, and a membership a year old opining about canopy management? AND you're also an expert when it comes to indoor lighting lol? https://www.rollitup.org/t/hps-hotter-than-mh.842708/ Gawd, that is funny.

You're out of your league kid.

My indoor plants finished out at 36-42" FWIW.

Sativied said:

Pro tomato grower with 4200 x 1000watt Gavita HPS:
View attachment 3261946

But somehow when used indoors in a closet or room the photons disappear after traveling 3 feet

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Imagine that! A bonafide, non-cannabis grower hanging lights 16' above a greenhouse floor. hrrrrmmmphhhhhh......

Just watch, some jerk will dismiss that professional lighting approach as being nothing more than augmenting the tomato plants' photoperiod LOL.

Uncle Ben said:

Just watch, some jerk will dismiss that professional lighting approach as being nothing more than augmenting the tomato plants' photoperiod LOL.

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Well in that case let me add that the setup is specifically created to be able to grow consistent quality all year, it gets dark early in winter (before 18:00) and is cloudy most of the year. Additionally, they specifically choose the reflector for, I quote, "deep penetration of the light".



Another example but this is what it looks like on a cloudy day, just not sunny enough to grow top quality.

yeah, I've seen those type hoods. Notice the small profile? Small hoods are more efficient when it comes to reflectivity contrary to popular forum thought. But then again, what else is new?

I studied detailed papers from the Dutch regarding growing tomatoes and they are so exact, so detailed and for me so confusing I just gave up trying to understand the methods of madness. We're talking adjustments of temps many times per night. They manipulate light and temps to the nth degree. I bought 2 varieties that came from the Netherlands specially bred and hand pollinated, cost $1 USD each. 2 years trying with marginal results and mediocre taste, I gave up. Seeds were/are Adamson and Trust. Upon the advice of BHN I've got their BHN 589 growing really well now. If you can get your hands on BHN tomato hybrids, try some. The 602 and 589 are excellent in all respects - disease package, taste, texture, no catfacing/splitting, etc. http://www.bhnseed.com/

goddamn you guys are dumb. the sun is a 27 million degree ball of nuclear fission, thats why it can travel millions of miles and still produce enough light and heat for your 42 inch plant to get light to the lower colas. go a little bit closer to the sun and your eyeballs will boil out of your skull after the retinas have been seared away from the intense lumens... move away slightly and it gets dark and cold as fuck. same thing as a lightbulb but on a much smaller scale. It's called math.

Lmao. i got the popcorn for the fight.

I just cleaned up the bottom of my plants an organic in soil grow. We had a lot of rain and I wanted to get up into the plant and make sure everything was drying out. Everything is looking good for now, but my plants are so dense that I am a little concerned about mold or mildew. This is the first time I have grown outdoor and I am just guessing most of the time. I have spent tons of time on research, but there is so much conflicting info., it gets a little confusing for an old lady. I am a lifetime gardner and I have grown two successful indoor grows ( 6 oz, 8 plants and 14 oz 12 plants two 600 Watt HPS).

So here is the question. Do I trim some of the bigger fans so that more air gets inside the plant. Like I said, I see no problems, but it is starting to get colder and wetter here in the NW. and I want to avoid problems if I can. I am too close to the end to screw the pooch now.

Pics:

Oh .... and I grew a couple of pumpkins.

Uncle Ben said:

yada yada yada....

So you'd call those very dense lower budsites of mine "larf", especially photos 4-6, deep in the non lit abyss of my garden? Gawd this is a hoot. Here, I'll link you guys again but you'll still come back with the same old misguided paradigms - https://www.rollitup.org/t/no-lower-budsites-do-not-need-light-to-develop-get-educated.829061/

The buds at the bottom are heavier in weight than many grow up top under their wonderful super duper spectrum macho lights as they chant inverse laws and stuff. That kind of "quality" works for me.

Click to expand...

So in all your time owning or working at the greenhouse in nopes- ville you mean to say you never tried the pruning and removing of the lower branches to force the energy of the plant to the main shoots in flower?

you can trim some of the lowest leaves to make airflow. if you dont get much wind. but outiside most leave them be.
They are looking great. After veiwing those pics i would maybe trim 1 foot of lower leaves for airflow reasons only. I would not remove anything for yield. you gonna get plenty of yield man.
Well done so far. love it.

P. Berry said:

This is the first time I have grown outdoor and I am just guessing most of the time. I have spent tons of time on research, but there is so much conflicting info.,

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That's because you're seeking solid info from the wrong places. Blind leading the blind. If you come here, expect to become confused and find everything complicated.

So here is the question. Do I trim some of the bigger fans so that more air gets inside the plant.

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No. If you're outdoors and growing healthy plants (which means they have all their fan leaves and such) then the plant will be resistant to disease pressures and to a certain extent insect pressures. Now, if you're not an organic purist I can offer fungicides which are safe for you and the land. Won't waste my time if you're an organic purist. Let me know.

Plants look nice and green and very healthy. Keep them that way until harvest.

UB