theslipperbandit
Well-Known Member
Modest ol Dr who lol that's a fantastic girl bud
Glueberry
- Thread starter dazzyballz
- Start date
L S D Pepper
Well-Known Member
Was thinking the same lol, amazing looking plant.
theslipperbandit
Well-Known Member
That's what happens when ur gear appears on high times (if memory serves)
dazzyballz
Well-Known Member
Doc,do you add different soils at different stages can ya explain a little please mate,juzt ive never heard of what your doing.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Yes I actually do...I build like 5 soils (blooms are made to need at the proper time to cover the plants grown). I start with a base soil that runs for 14-28 days with out needing you to feed the plants. That's pot size (volume) dependent on how long it lasts. Some plants will use it faster, some slower.
I take that BASE soil and add a nutrient mix to that to formulate each of the other soils. Veg, Bloom 1, Bloom 2 and Bloom 3. Each of those blooms will have strains that work best in them.
I tend to first run Indica dom plants in a "higher" N bloom that contains longer release forms of N. This showed in the GG4 pic above as she was dark leaved and expressed N based foxtailing. Again that is shown in that pic. It also had the plant do longer nodal spacing and the buds more of a "single ball" shape with some of the mains showing the length potential of the budding to be more "conventional"....I can "see" this from years of not just growing but, of doing soils this way and understanding how the plant is reacting to whats in that soil.
The following run was done in a more balanced soil and the result is far bigger/longer buds with closer/more nodal spacing. The yield will go up way more then I thought - NOT an "bad surprise"!! Bud size has increased as far as length and diam. overall.
Don't get me wrong here. The plant in the first pic turned out LOVELY! I have no complaints but, I grew it that way to "see" what it "needed" to grow in, for optimal growth potential achievement....
I apply my soils like this - The Base is for seedlings and rooted clones. They go in SOLO cups and as the roots begin to spiral the bottom. They go into 1 gallons with 50/50 mix of base and veg soil. As those roots get spiraling, - they go into 3 gallon pots with 100% veg soil...
The plants are vegged to size (I don't time or count days anymore. They are run till how they stretch is accounted for in bloom to the final end size). They are then transplanted to 5 - 7 gallon pots (7's for the long running sativa's) and given 8 -10 days under the veg lighting before being moved into the Bloom rooms.
All soils beyond the base run higher K across the board! In the bloom soils, I tend to use as fast to med release P as I can. I do not "spike" but can and do use K boosters (my own tea's) for some needs. I use organic made versions of my Mg and K sulfates...
I do not use blood meal, Bone meal, Commercial feather meal or commercial critter poo's (Bat, bird).
As I build soils I use BioAg FUL HUMIX in a basic AACT and that's whats in the water I use to initially water my soils to cook. I use very little DOLO as it has too much Mg for how I grow. I prefer Egg shells and Oyster shell.....You can get differing properties out of egg shells by washing and not washing - Baking them first or not. Search that!
For other soil bio's, that's simple. I use (as everyone should) Earth Worm Castings first off. I also add several pounds of a good Steer or Cow manure - well composted! This brings in a broader spectrum of Myco's .....
That's basically it......I don't like to give out exact formulations of soils, as I use things from my farms that isn't available to those not on them. Explaining and finding available replacements are hard and time consuming..
You want to learn how to build water only soils? This is one of the best starter posts I've seen....Ganja Girl's supreme post for new soil builders!
https://forum.grasscity.com/threads/easy-organic-soil-mix-for-beginners.1116550/
Once you begin to want to "adjust" soils....You need to know how things are in containing NPK ratio's and how long it takes those things to release the nutrient..
These sites will go a along way in helping you with that.
http://www.lundproduce.com/N-P-K-Value-of-Everything.html
https://www.thenutrientcompany.com/npk-value-of-everything-organic-searchable-database/
This is a nice data set and info put out by the University of Maryland extension services!
http://extension.umd.edu/sites/default/files/_images/programs/hgic/Publications/HG42_Soil_Amendments_and_Fertilizers.pdf
Ag schools all have an "extension service". I still call them from time to time to answer questions! They are there to help farmers as much as experiment on new strain of all kinds of crops.
Good luck!
dazzyballz
Well-Known Member
Never heard of doing it that way before.sounds intense and a lot different to any way ive heard looks like it works well though,
Lot of info there, doc cheers.
i just stick to the plagron light soil,feed bio bizz canna boost rhizotonic,only feed once silica,and i usually add powderd bat poo in flower.
Whats your final pot size end up??
Lot of info there, doc cheers.
i just stick to the plagron light soil,feed bio bizz canna boost rhizotonic,only feed once silica,and i usually add powderd bat poo in flower.
Whats your final pot size end up??
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dazzyballz
Well-Known Member
5 out of 6 are up a few inch
