Maybetomorrow
Well-Known Member
Has this been happening all the time since you started or just now started happening. My units hardly ever change in ph. I don't adjust unless it off by more then .4 either way. What unit is giving you the problem.
Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!
- Thread starter StinkBud
- Start date
Has this been happening all the time since you started or just now started happening. My units hardly ever change in ph. I don't adjust unless it off by more then .4 either way. What unit is giving you the problem.
gvega187
Well-Known Member
I have bought ph adjustment fluid that is "unstable". It somehow only affects the ph for about a day and then dissipates.
root rot can also cause quick downward swings in ph. If your roots are healthy and white this is not the case.
chongers
Active Member
the ph fluctuations are unpredictable
I have a round that is about a week into veg and it is dropping from 5.8 to ~ 4.4
I also have a round that is 6 weeks into flower that is dropping also
I guess it could be the ph up I am using, I put it in to adjust the ph and sometimes it works and stays stable , sometimes its a constant battle to keep the ph stable
My water comes out of the tap at 6.8
then I add nutes, which drops the ph, so I end up having to add ph up
should the nutes be dropping the ph like it does?
I have a round that is about a week into veg and it is dropping from 5.8 to ~ 4.4
I also have a round that is 6 weeks into flower that is dropping also
I guess it could be the ph up I am using, I put it in to adjust the ph and sometimes it works and stays stable , sometimes its a constant battle to keep the ph stable
My water comes out of the tap at 6.8
then I add nutes, which drops the ph, so I end up having to add ph up
should the nutes be dropping the ph like it does?
bubblefunk
Member
i usally see people trying to lower the nutes ph mabey your meter needs to b calibrated. be carefull how much ph control you use it can stun your plants
I don't have PHd in PH - but here are some thoughts...
Hmmm - so how are the plants doing? If they look OK, you sound like you are fine.
As you noted, the nutes will drop the PH of water. It makes sense that as a nute solution evaporates and becomes more concentrated, the PH will lower. When you then top off the res with 6.8 water this also alters your PH.
Do you know exactly how much water you are using in your res's? The larger your res is, the more stable it will be. You need to fill the 18 gallon Rubbermaids up a fair bit (they actually bulge out). if unsure, do a test fill with 5 gallon bottles to see what 10 - 15 gallons looks like.
Not sure what type of meter you are using - but I need to be patient when checkin PH with my Hanna multi-meter... to initially dial in a reading it takes several minutes to stabalize, with minute adjustments after that requiring just a few seconds. Be certain you are not rushing your readings.
Also - ANY trace bits of something (bleach, soap, cleaning agent) you may have used to clean or steralize a res, or flower unit, etc - will alter your PH.
Again, if your plants look good - you are probably doing it right!
What PH adjusters gave you issues? Why do you think the PH adjust dissapated - rather than thinking your PH is actually changing? I have wondered about this before. Currently, I have been using AN - as it is so concentrated and quick... I have tried Botanicare, GH, MadFarmer... and a couple others I forget right now. Other than strength, I did not realize some were unstable?
Note Stinkers - when using the Botanicare nutes, especially the Liquid Karma (or other fluvic/humic addative), your roots will be stained brown. This is normal and should not be confused with root rot. I know you use the standard GH line, Gvega - so you have nice white roots!
Likewise on the level indicator - super helpful - good job, AndyMan!
thinkhigh
Well-Known Member
Nice adjustments on the veg. unit. +rep.a-394 (lowes) nylon hose barb to mip elbow.
1/2" x 1/2"
and 5/8" od x 1/2" id clear tubing
and a faucet locknut (88009) lowes
and 2 washer or garden hose rubber gaskets or o-rings
the tote is a small 10 gallon one for the pump and res. The one for the plants and roots to hang is a 14 gallon medium one.
on the cord thing I use a 1 1/2" piece of pvc like for your drain and a compression fitting that slides in it like to go on your sink tube. plus I put o-rings on that for shits and giggles. I have 2 that Ive been running for a few months now and they work great. You have to run panty hose or pump filter though. Just doing it till I have somewere big enough to run the fence post way.
gvega187
Well-Known Member
I have had trouble with GH dry ph adjustment and a brand called "pro", which I must say is less than pro.
GH liquid adjustment and local brands seem to work well.
andyman
Well-Known Member
thanks, i didnt want to waste a spot a plant could be at, and for lifting the lid to look inside or poor nuits in.
thanks
well im using that as a modified 6 hole flower unit. for in tight spots were i cant fit the fence post. and I can pull any males without them being grown together. I originaly made it just to flower seeds since I didnt know what was male and female. but then I just let the females go and it seems to work fine. Soon I will switch over to the fencepost but I only have a small spot to work with rt now.
thanks
pinner420
Well-Known Member
I just pitched my hanna meter in the trash. I got a new oakton multimeter. It is a 3 point calibration and is insanely quick and accurate comparatively speaking. Another bonus is that is goes up to 9999 ppm which when using Botanicare nutes is quite handy when you start playing with stuff above 2000 ppm. Anyway love my new meter and so do my plants. Also as a side note I use Advanced ph up and down. Only have to use a fraction of it compared to gh. Much Success.
chongers
Active Member
thanks everyone for your input
I use a milwaukee sm 802 ph and ppm meter
I do have it calibrated and it stays submerged in one of the res at all times
I am using GH up and down, they are pretty old, maybe a year or so, can it be too old?
My res' are 18 gallon rubbermaid roughnecks
I always keep them about 15 gallons full for temperature stability
no light gets to the water and temps are around 70 F + hydrozyme
my young plants look great but the 6 week old flower batch looks like they may have nute burn
I use a milwaukee sm 802 ph and ppm meter
I do have it calibrated and it stays submerged in one of the res at all times
I am using GH up and down, they are pretty old, maybe a year or so, can it be too old?
My res' are 18 gallon rubbermaid roughnecks
I always keep them about 15 gallons full for temperature stability
no light gets to the water and temps are around 70 F + hydrozyme
my young plants look great but the 6 week old flower batch looks like they may have nute burn
doktorgreenthumb420
Well-Known Member
nah i think it is just that gh ph up and down is weaker i use to use advances and then i switchedc to gh and had to use ..no shit like 4 times as much at least
car washer
Active Member
I am going to do one more round from seed before I tinker with clones and a larger flower room.
Picture below is what happened this go around with DP Blueberry from seed (picture at day 27 of flower - it got worse) and 30 days veg under 600 MH then 600 HPS. I did top them.
One thing I will change is run my MH conversion bulb early in flower.
I had late hermie problems probably because the heat at the end.
Should I try a scrog of some sort or just veg less? I want to keep these suckers smaller. Would scrog even work? Less plants?
Picture below is what happened this go around with DP Blueberry from seed (picture at day 27 of flower - it got worse) and 30 days veg under 600 MH then 600 HPS. I did top them.
One thing I will change is run my MH conversion bulb early in flower.
I had late hermie problems probably because the heat at the end.
Should I try a scrog of some sort or just veg less? I want to keep these suckers smaller. Would scrog even work? Less plants?
Attachments
repvip
Well-Known Member
30 days veg! Damn. What is your veg light cycle? 24/0, 18/6?
I was having problems with plants getting too tall. I switched to scrog and swiched my veg from 24/0 to 18/6.
Something to think about:
If you are vegging 24/0 it will take about 7-10 days longer than usual to start flowering, once they have been placed on 12/12. "Usual" refers to 18/6 light for vegging....
If you haven't tried reducing your veg light cycle to 18/6 you could try that first. Plants will flower sooner and not grow as tall.
scrog works great! It would work even better with less plants vegged at 24/0. Then, once they have been placed on 12/12 you will have an additional amount of time to weave the plants throughout the screen. It's good to know when to stop, so that all the branches will continue to grow vertical. Once they start showing bud sites they dont stretch too much.. so at the first sign of white hairs you should stop manipulating the plant and let it grow.
Remember how I did both at once? It was a little too much, now my plants are way short! By the time they reach the screen they have started budding. Since I like the shorter flower cycle (with shorter veg light cycle) I have decided to add more plants and not top them.
ps - my plants in veg seem to be growing quicker at 18/6 than 24/0. I don't understand why, but they end up just as tall and usually taller than before the switch. I'm not sure I could veg mine any longer than 3 weeks without them simply being too massive.
EDIT:
OH! I missed the growing from seed part. They will take longer than clones and get bigger no matter what. I would suggest the screen in that case.
I was having problems with plants getting too tall. I switched to scrog and swiched my veg from 24/0 to 18/6.
Something to think about:
If you are vegging 24/0 it will take about 7-10 days longer than usual to start flowering, once they have been placed on 12/12. "Usual" refers to 18/6 light for vegging....
If you haven't tried reducing your veg light cycle to 18/6 you could try that first. Plants will flower sooner and not grow as tall.
scrog works great! It would work even better with less plants vegged at 24/0. Then, once they have been placed on 12/12 you will have an additional amount of time to weave the plants throughout the screen. It's good to know when to stop, so that all the branches will continue to grow vertical. Once they start showing bud sites they dont stretch too much.. so at the first sign of white hairs you should stop manipulating the plant and let it grow.
Remember how I did both at once? It was a little too much, now my plants are way short! By the time they reach the screen they have started budding. Since I like the shorter flower cycle (with shorter veg light cycle) I have decided to add more plants and not top them.
ps - my plants in veg seem to be growing quicker at 18/6 than 24/0. I don't understand why, but they end up just as tall and usually taller than before the switch. I'm not sure I could veg mine any longer than 3 weeks without them simply being too massive.
EDIT:
OH! I missed the growing from seed part. They will take longer than clones and get bigger no matter what. I would suggest the screen in that case.
car washer
Active Member
Thanks. I vegged 18/6. When they went to flower the tallest was 13". Probably 6 feet for 3 of them at end. This is not a good way to go. One plant was totally swamped and useless.
So how far is your screen from the top of the fencepost or the tops or your plants at the end of veg????? Also, in your scrog how far apart are your plants???? I could see one or two plants filling up a 4 x 4 screen. Too many or too little plants better????
Very helpful.
repvip
Well-Known Member
My chicken poultry
is 12" above the fence posts. I have a couple at 14" too. My plants are usually about 10" when they go in flower. So they are usually almost touching the screen. Then I thread it along where I want for 1.5 weeks. The side branches all grow up at about the same rate so you get a nice canopy, usually. I think there are a few factors to consider. If only 1 or 2 of your plants can fill up a whole unit... then scrog might not be the way to go?
Anybody else starting from seed have any tips? I only use clones.
I constantly have to adapt the number of plants I'm doing to the configuration I have, and the lighting schedule and everything. Since all my rotations are 2 weeks, based on 8 week flower, nothing gets too big.
I use 6' fence posts with 10 sites/post at 6" apart. It's too close without the screen... 6" on all sides.
Your plants are freaking huge! You need to veg less, like 1.5 weeks only, or else use less plants and the screen, top them and you will fill up the screen no problem.
How long did you flower for? What type of plants are these?
car washer
Active Member
I flowered these DP Blueberries for 59 days. I chopped them because the biggest plants were showing lots of yellow bananas lower and creeping to the top. So I chopped. All Cloudy trichs so I might be okay. Its curing right now. The smallest plant did not hermie.My chicken poultry
I think there are a few factors to consider. If only 1 or 2 of your plants can fill up a whole unit... then scrog might not be the way to go?
Anybody else starting from seed have any tips? I only use clones.
I constantly have to adapt the number of plants I'm doing to the configuration I have, and the lighting schedule and everything. Since all my rotations are 2 weeks, based on 8 week flower, nothing gets too big.
I use 6' fence posts with 10 sites/post at 6" apart. It's too close without the screen... 6" on all sides.
Your plants are freaking huge! You need to veg less, like 1.5 weeks only, or else use less plants and the screen, top them and you will fill up the screen no problem.
How long did you flower for? What type of plants are these?
It was lots of fun despite the panic at the end.
I hope to work with clones in future but for one more grow I am going femminized from seed. For those starting from seed its like an explosion. You think big plants indoors are big producers? Maybe, but at what cost? I am going to order some whiteberry and keep better control this time.
Probably 2.5 weeks veg max with a screen like you said. 2.5 weeks in this system is like a lifetime. Rep.
Thanks Stink too!
doktorgreenthumb420
Well-Known Member
i hate those kinds of banannas lol funny tho cause they look just like a little bananna ....i wonder if we crossed spider mites and spider monkeys we could get a small monkey that would eat all those little banannas and prevent pollination ...
