Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!

Hey stink, is there any reason why you went from 2000+ ppm to 800-1000 ppm?

Because its just not needed.

Thats what i figured, thanks SS

birdmananyweather said:

Hey stink, is there any reason why you went from 2000+ ppm to 800-1000 ppm?

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Your PPM varies depending on strains. Some strains are heavy eaters, some are not. I've had strains that could handle 3000PPM without burning. At the same time I've seen strains show overfeeding at 1200PPM.

I've never had any problems running 1200-1400 PPM with my original recipe. I run 800-1000 PPM with synthetic nutes.

It just keeps going and going.... I have some new girls mixed in with the old hags. You can see that some of the ladies are starting to turn colors. I bet you can tell which one is the Purple Wreck! The Kandy Kush nugs are huge! Some are fist size and feel heavy as fuck! You really have to try the Kandy Kush, you won't be sorry. The Stacked Kush is the other big winner.

Do u have a certain medical card for that?

That Purple Wreck looks so tasty

Hey Stinkbud first and foremost THANKS for the info. I am new join to the site but started reading the forum last year and built your system. My boys and I have consistently pulled a pound of OG Kush maybe beginners luck not sure. But I am not sure we are running our lights effectively. We have been running one table under a 1000 watt vented hood with 6 plants. so each of the tables has its own light. Should I have 2 or 3 tables on one light?

you are all smoking way too much of your own product LOL......if your pumps draw more amperage at start up than the circuit and the circuit breaker is rated at, the circuit breaker will trip to OFF, end of story! The WEAK link in your timer setup is the power strip...you are still turning on all 3,4 5, or 6 pumps all at once, and that additional start up current ( and all of the transient voltage spikes that come with it) will burn up the cheap, internal wiring and contacts INSIDE OF THE POWER STRIP.

YES, you are protecting your interval timer, but you will eventually burn up the power strip starting and starting those pumps constantly, and then, even if your timer is still working perfectly, the pumps will still fail to turn on because the inside of the power strip is charred and carbonized....what you need to do is wire 20 amp electrical outlets to the relay output, and plug your pumps into them.

The weak link in oyur chain is the power strip, altho the internals of the interval timer will eventually end up charred and burned, just like the power strips. At that point, the pumps do not work, and the power strip starts building up heat internally (from the resistance if the carbon deposits) and eventually will just melt, or even catch on fir e and burn!

Nothing against you guys, but you have got to get rid of those power strips.....that power strip is still taking the full brunt of the start up transisent current spikes when the pumps all go on at once!

I am an electrical engineer, and have been working on this kind of crap for years.....a better solution would be to design and build a microcontroller controlled circuit that would sense the timer input "on" signal, and then switch each plug and pump (each would have a separate relay) on, one at a time, appx 5 seconds apart.....a short assembly language program would do it...the controller would wait for a "wake up" signal from the interval timer, and then wake up and start doing its thing, one pump at a time.

Good Luck......Thunderbunny

I just seen this thread made stickie status and wanted to say congrats SB. I spent weeks reading this thing back when I was just starting out and learned a ton. I even bought some sprayers and recycle timers that are still gathering dust because I never made it to aero/ntf like I originally planned. But my set-up is still heavily influenced by this thread - 3 flood tables under 2k on a 3 week rotation, works so well with less points of failure I see no need to "upgrade". Anyway, just wanted to say congrats!

Happy Harvests!

This thread is great.. Hilarious it got stickied after all these years....what made the difference now?

BUT, check out the 3 stages of flower thread... SS and co. have taken it to the next level. SB original system looks great, but those buds look real small to my standards.. But still, I am sure the quality is there

Cheers to all

.......... .

I started reading this thread in 2009. It took me a while to get through it back then but I started with the original system. I have followed SS's work and improvements in both systems design and formulas. Now runninng 5 flower racks and a 20 oz harvest from 12 plants is considered "light weight." You are right, SuperStoner's "Three Stages of Flower" is a great improvement and continuation of the method.

StinkBud said:

You just fill the res with water and start adding the nutrient formula until it reaches the correct PPM.

What PPM level you run depends a lot on what strain you are running. 1700-2000 PPM is a safe number to start at but some strains can handle over 3000 PPM.

Every couple of days I add water. As the plants use up the nutrients you will have to add more formula. It's really too easy!

All you need is a cheap PPM meter. Stick it in the water and read the number.

Same with PH. Just put the meter in the water and it will tell you the PH. If it is below 5.8 you add PH up. If is above 5.8 you add PH down.

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PH of 5.8 seems a bit high, most of your nutrients and trace elements all line up at a PH of 6.5. If you go higher or lower you lock some out.
Most nutrient lines have a feeding schedule online, at your local hydro shop, or even with the product. It tells you what to use and how much. Don't try and follow what one person uses. There are many factors involved like the strain, temperature, humidity, if you run CO2, and more. Start at 80% of what it says on the bottle. You can add more as you see what your plants can take.

StinkBud said:

After 3 weeks the best 14 plants move to the veg system.

I use a dual container aeroponic system. The roots grow straight down which makes the plants easy to transfer to the flower room when the time comes.

The plants are under a 250W MH light set to 18/6.

Again, all my systems are on the same timer set to 1 minute on and 5 minutes off. This gives the roots the maximum amount of Oxygen without letting them dry out.

I run this nutrient formula for vegetative growth:

Botanicare Nutrients:
126ML Cal-Mag Plus
180ML Liquid Karma
540ML Pure Bend Pro Vegetative Formula

I start at 1500 PPM and bring it up to 2000 PPM by the second week of veg. I change the nutrients every 3 weeks with each new crop.

I adjust my PH to 5.8

Stay tuned for more...

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Hi, thanks for the awesome tutorial. Question: why is there 24 holes in the vegging aparatus when only 14 plants is being moved over?

Liothen831 said:

PH of 5.8 seems a bit high, most of your nutrients and trace elements all line up at a PH of 6.5. If you go higher or lower you lock some out.
Most nutrient lines have a feeding schedule online, at your local hydro shop, or even with the product. It tells you what to use and how much. Don't try and follow what one person uses. There are many factors involved like the strain, temperature, humidity, if you run CO2, and more. Start at 80% of what it says on the bottle. You can add more as you see what your plants can take.

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This post makes no sense. First it says pH of 5.8 is high then says it should be 6.5, when 5.8 is absolutely perfect. This is hydro, ya know. And start at 50% or less of recipes, never heard the 80%.

Daithy said:

Hi, thanks for the awesome tutorial. Question: why is there 24 holes in the vegging aparatus when only 14 plants is being moved over?

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Space to navigate? Survival of the fittest? Messed up? Could be anything, doesn't matter, make as many as you need. I have had cloners with 5 sites and 73 sites.

oceangreen said:

This thread is great.. Hilarious it got stickied after all these years....what made the difference now?

BUT, check out the 3 stages of flower thread... SS and co. have taken it to the next level. SB original system looks great, but those buds look real small to my standards.. But still, I am sure the quality is there

Cheers to all

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I've read most of your posts but yet to see any pics! I'd like to see your standards...show us your BUDS/finished products!! Then call them "real small to my standards"...since you are talking, then show your walking it!
Not putting you down oceangreen...would like to see some pics if available.
MERRY CHRISTMAS and happy grows everybody!

StinkBud said:

You need to start somewhere. If you have a friend that is growing ask them if you can have some cuttings. If not you will have to start from seed the first time.

If you do have to start from seed use some Rapid Rooter plugs and just stick the plug in the net pot.

I recommend using feminised seeds. That way you won't have to pull any males and kill all the females in the process (the roots all grow together).

No matter what, eventually you will be using only cuttings so I'll start with how to take a cutting or clone as some call them.

I select a lower branch from one of my veg plants. It's way better to use a stem from the lower branches than from the top. The lower branches contain more of the hormones that it takes to start roots.

I use a razor blade to take the cutting. No special treatment here.

Moving on...

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Could you run this with a flood and drain system?

If that is your preference. You may not harvest as much, or maybe more, who knows. Start a thread if you give it a try.