Has anyone tried Beauveria bassiana fungus for plant pests

Letstrip

Well-Known Member
Has anyone tried this? Thought about trying it outdoors but cant find much about it...

Bavaria bassiana is an entomopathogenic fungi that infects a wide variety of plant pests, including but not limited to aphids, whitefly, spidermite, thrips, and many other species. Once the host insect is infected, the fungus rapidly grows inside of the insect, feeding on the nutrients present in the host's body and producing toxins in the process. When the host dies, the B. bassiana covers the carcass in a layer of white mould that produces more infective spores.

https://seaclifforganics.nz/products/beauveria-bassiana-concentrate-spore-10g-vial
 

Letstrip

Well-Known Member
I have not tried Bavaria bassiana but I would be leary of smoking something that had it on it.
Yes, my thoughts too. But then you also wouldn't want to smoke something with a pesticide on it. What's your go to for issues? This grow will be outdoors so possibly prone to more bugs.
 

Funkentelechy

Well-Known Member
Yes, my thoughts too. But then you also wouldn't want to smoke something with a pesticide on it. What's your go to for issues?
Agreed.
My go-to is predatory insects, I've had really good luck with them. Depends on what type of bug you're having issues with, usually, I use Phytoseiulus persimilis or Neoseiulus californicus, those two are mite predators(spider mites, russet mites, and broad mites). But, there are specialized predators for just about whatever bug you're dealing with.
Most people when they think of predatory insects, they go for Lady bugs or Praying mantids but those two are not very effective. Praying mantids are very territorial so they tend to eat each other and grow so fast that they don't predate on the insects that infest cannabis, which tend to be small, for very long before they just leave looking for bigger prey.

Ladybugs or Ladybirds, depending on where you are from, have two life stages the nymph stage and the adult stage. They eat a lot in the nymph stage and look nothing like what most people think of when they think of a Ladybug, after that they overwinter in huge clusters as adults and emerge in the spring in the classic adult form that we all know. This is when they get collected and sold all around the world as beneficial predatory insects, the only problem is that in this adult stage of their life they actually don't eat very much, their main objective is to reproduce and die at this point, a little like salmon when they spawn. They might grab a bite here or there but mostly they're just looking to reproduce and die, so they don't stick around for very long.
But as I mentioned there are specialist predators for whatever bug you are dealing with. I grow outdoor as well.
 

Letstrip

Well-Known Member
Agreed.
My go-to is predatory insects, I've had really good luck with them. Depends on what type of bug you're having issues with, usually, I use Phytoseiulus persimilis or Neoseiulus californicus, those two are mite predators(spider mites, russet mites, and broad mites). But, there are specialized predators for just about whatever bug you're dealing with.
Most people when they think of predatory insects, they go for Lady bugs or Praying mantids but those two are not very effective. Praying mantids are very territorial so they tend to eat each other and grow so fast that they don't predate on the insects that infest cannabis, which tend to be small, for very long before they just leave looking for bigger prey.

Ladybugs or Ladybirds, depending on where you are from, have two life stages the nymph stage and the adult stage. They eat a lot in the nymph stage and look nothing like what most people think of when they think of a Ladybug, after that they overwinter in huge clusters as adults and emerge in the spring in the classic adult form that we all know. This is when they get collected and sold all around the world as beneficial predatory insects, the only problem is that in this adult stage of their life they actually don't eat very much, their main objective is to reproduce and die at this point, a little like salmon when they spawn. They might grab a bite here or there but mostly they're just looking to reproduce and die, so they don't stick around for very long.
But as I mentioned there are specialist predators for whatever bug you are dealing with. I grow outdoor as well.
Thanks for the low down, so outdoors do you find the predatory mites tend to stick around? I've had praying mantis show up on my plants before and stumble around on sticky buds in what i assume is them stoned! We have bugs called passion vine hoppers that suck that sap out of the plants they're a real pain if they find your plants. They don't always though. Ill have to look more into the predatory mites
 

Funkentelechy

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the low down, so outdoors do you find the predatory mites tend to stick around?
The predatory mites are mite specialists so they will stick around as long as there are mites to eat. It is best to use them before the infestation is severe, but they can reproduce faster than the mites that they predate on, so if introduced in sufficient numbers they will wipe them out.
 

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
I only know someone who used it to kill bedbugs in NYC. But I'm interested in it as an Endophytic fungus for promoting plant growth: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7920271/. I'm also leery of "smoking" a fungus, but if you study the way endophytes function inside of plants, we've probably smoked quite a lot of them already without knowing... It's a valid concern and I don't think anyone has the answer to it.
 

Letstrip

Well-Known Member
I only know someone who used it to kill bedbugs in NYC. But I'm interested in it as an Endophytic fungus for promoting plant growth: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7920271/. I'm also leery of "smoking" a fungus, but if you study the way endophytes function inside of plants, we've probably smoked quite a lot of them already without knowing... It's a valid concern and I don't think anyone has the answer to it.
Very interesting thanks I'll read that now! I have been reading of people using it in soil for issues there and also read about it functioning similar to a michorizal fungi? I didn't know about endophytes so I'm gonna look into them. Perhaps it could be useful until the end of veg then don't use it in flowering? But if they're already in plants then... Yeah like you say, I don't think there is an answer. It is obviously more useful for certain bugs
 

Letstrip

Well-Known Member
The predatory mites are mite specialists so they will stick around as long as there are mites to eat. It is best to use them before the infestation is severe, but they can reproduce faster than the mites that they predate on, so if introduced in sufficient numbers they will wipe them out.
Would this be a good option? It's a NZ based so good for me! I'm certainly intrigued by the predatory mites idea
 

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
Very interesting thanks I'll read that now! I have been reading of people using it in soil for issues there and also read about it functioning similar to a michorizal fungi? I didn't know about endophytes so I'm gonna look into them. Perhaps it could be useful until the end of veg then don't use it in flowering? But if they're already in plants then... Yeah like you say, I don't think there is an answer. It is obviously more useful for certain bugs
I think endophytes and mycorrhizae are similar in that they have found their own specific niches to survive alongside...and inside...the plant. Mycorrhizae are interesting because we think of them as this wonderful beneficial organism helping our roots, but mycorrhizae can become parasitic if the mycorrhizal carbon costs exceed the nutritional benefit they bring to the plant. Whether this happens depends on a lot of factors like the plant's specific genotype, type and amount of fertilizer used (mineral salt/organic), mycorrhizae involved, etc. It's just good for people to know that mycorrhizae isn't guaranteed to be beneficial, and in some cases it might actually be an anchor that's holding your plant back. That said, I do like to use mycorrhizae with organics, but I'm not sold at all on using them with mineral salts.

I would be 100% okay smoking buds from soil treated with Botaniguard.
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
I used it as a foliar spray, and man, that stuff is not pleasant to breathe. A soil drench would probably work well though.
 

Letstrip

Well-Known Member
I think endophytes and mycorrhizae are similar in that they have found their own specific niches to survive alongside...and inside...the plant. Mycorrhizae are interesting because we think of them as this wonderful beneficial organism helping our roots, but mycorrhizae can become parasitic if the mycorrhizal carbon costs exceed the nutritional benefit they bring to the plant. Whether this happens depends on a lot of factors like the plant's specific genotype, type and amount of fertilizer used (mineral salt/organic), mycorrhizae involved, etc. It's just good for people to know that mycorrhizae isn't guaranteed to be beneficial, and in some cases it might actually be an anchor that's holding your plant back. That said, I do like to use mycorrhizae with organics, but I'm not sold at all on using them with mineral salts.

I would be 100% okay smoking buds from soil treated with Botaniguard.
Very interesting. I totally agree about only using them in organic grows. Synthetics cause dysbiosis and damage in living organic and don't really benefit them from what i can tell
 

nygaff1

Well-Known Member
I only know someone who used it to kill bedbugs in NYC. But I'm interested in it as an Endophytic fungus for promoting plant growth: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7920271/. I'm also leery of "smoking" a fungus, but if you study the way endophytes function inside of plants, we've probably smoked quite a lot of them already without knowing... It's a valid concern and I don't think anyone has the answer to it.
Hold up. Someone called the BBB(BB...)? Beauveria Bassiana Bed Bug Brigade?!? :p
 

DCcan

Well-Known Member
I've been using it for 2+ years, mostly outdoors. I treat indoor plants and grow room with it as well.
I haven't seen a single mite this year, knocked the flea beetles and ticks out also.
Also effective on some common caterpillars at early stages of life.
It's most effective when applied with pyrethrin or permetherins, or combined with azirdiractin, those will soften the shell and make bugs more sucecptible.
It's not an immediate remedy, might take a week for bugs to become infected, but effective prevention, really helps knock back the population. It also colonizes the plant and roots, keeps other pathogens like fusarium and botrysis from establishing colonies, eats them as well. Acts like a PGR, stimulating plant growth.

If you spray it on buds in early flower, the spores will bloom then die off to a lower level before harvest.
Fruit and root crops treated with it have a significanly longer storage life without other fungi setting in.
It's best applied in higher humidity, temps below 80f/ 27c.
 
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Letstrip

Well-Known Member
I've been using it for 2+ years, mostly outdoors. I treat indoor plants and grow room with it as well.
I haven't seen a single mite this year, knocked the flea beetles and ticks out also.
Also effective on some common caterpillars at early stages of life.
It's most effective when applied with pyrethrin or permetherins, or combined with azirdiractin, those will soften the shell and make bugs more sucecptible.
It's not an immediate remedy, might take a week for bugs to become infected, but effective prevention, really helps knock back the population. It also colonizes the plant and roots, keeps other pathogens like fusarium and botrysis from establishing colonies, eats them as well. Acts like a PGR, stimulating plant growth.

If you spray it on buds in early flower, the spores will bloom then die off to a lower level before harvest.
Fruit and root crops treated with it have a significanly longer storage life without other fungi setting in.
It's best applied in higher humidity, temps below 80f/ 27c.
Hi Dcan,

Very interesting, thanks for sharing. I was hoping someone who had actually used it properly would comment. My idea was to use it as a preventative measure and like you said, it needs time to get into the bugs. I didn't realize it kept out botrytis and other pathogens! So do you spray it on and also run it through the soil? I like that it stops other fungi, how fascinating. Bud rot can be an issue, i wonder if it helps hold it back. So you reckon its safe enough to use all in all?
 

DCcan

Well-Known Member
I usually spray grow room in fall and spring when stray bugs try to hibernate or hatch, the growing medium when I buy it, and the soil outside in the spring.
Once it's in the soil, it becomes endemic, a re-ocurring pathogen. I figure enough drips off to keep the soil population up, and wandering bugs spread it as well.
They recommend innoculating the plant at seedling stage, but it can be innoculated at any growth stage.

Isaria fumosorosea is another effective biopesticide than can colonize the plant, but has a short shelf life and narrow range of temp for storage.
Trichoderma harzianum and Gliocladium catenulatum, not biopesticides, but also effective at colonizing the whole plant & roots, attacking other pathogens.
I had good luck last year, very little rot (from bird crap, not bugs) and it didn't spread thru the whole bud. No foul smells or growths in the jars either.
 
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Letstrip

Well-Known Member
I usually spray grow room in fall and spring when stray bugs try to hibernate or hatch, the growing medium when I buy it, and the soil outside in the spring.
Once it's in the soil, it becomes endemic, a re-ocurring pathogen. I figure enough drips off to keep the soil population up, and wandering bugs spread it as well.
They recommend innoculating the plant at seedling stage, but it can be innoculated at any growth stage.

Isaria fumosorosea is another effective biopesticide than can colonize the plant, but has a short shelf life and narrow range of temp for storage.
Trichoderma harzianum and Gliocladium catenulatum, not biopesticides, but also effective at colonizing the whole plant & roots, attacking other pathogens.
I had good luck last year, very little rot (from bird crap, not bugs) and it didn't spread thru the whole bud. No foul smells or growths in the jars either.
Thank you for the low down, really fascinating. I think I'll give it a go this year!!
 
It will kill root aphids as long as the soil stays moist after application. As a foliar spray, the relative humidity needs to remain high for an extended period of time in order for it to be effective against the pests it is listed to treat
 
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