Have a question about Electrical..

ScoobyDoobyDoo

Well-Known Member
the box is rated for 100amps. you would need to check the breaker that feeds the box and the service cable to make sure it is getting 100amps. if so then you can run 100amps at 240v or 200amps at 120v; or a combination of both (i.e. 50 amps at 240v and 100 amps at 120v). looks like you have 2 20 amp tandem breakers. they look like the dual breaker kinds and not the 240v kind. so that means you have wired up 80 amps at 120v which leaves you another 80-100 amps at 120v if you play it safe. so 10,000w more or less.
 

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
Watts = volts x amperes. So if your region uses 110 volts, 20 amperes is equivalent to 2200 watts; if your region uses 220 volts, 20 amperes is equivalent to 4400 watts.

I would not excede 1500 watts on A 120 volt 20 amp breaker.

 

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
I read that as 100 watt mains Max. To me that means 4 50 amp 220 brakers. But there is no house that can handle that. So the line next to it says to check the main to make sure. I'm gonna say you have a max of 100 amps of 220. But you have only 80 amps of 110 on the sub panel. You do have room to add more if needed but only if it wired and fused to handle that load. For that we also need to see the main box and wires. Electric dosnt always makes sence but it's shocking to find out when your wrong.
 

ScoobyDoobyDoo

Well-Known Member
looks like you have 4 spaces left. use one of the spaces for your lights. either a 120v 30 amp breaker if you are running 400-2000w of lighting. anything more than that and you run a 40 amp 240v breaker to a controller box for your lights. then you run all your ballasts on 240v cords on that 1 controller. Then you use another space for any ac units and/or dehumidifiers. then use the 3rd & 4th space with 30 amp 120v breakers wired up to outlets around the room for fans, sensors, etc... that would be the safest way to set it up.
 

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
I wanted to see what his real main shows befor giving advice on adding to that panel. He might only be on a 40 amp 220 braker. Then that box is maxed out now.
 

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
Also who did the wires? Don't know any electrician to say old and new. We had new stickers to put on. Or we crossed what was there and wrote it on the lid. I'm worried it's to small of wire done by Joe smo.
 

ScoobyDoobyDoo

Well-Known Member
Also who did the wires? Don't know any electrician to say old and new. We had new stickers to put on. Or we crossed what was there and wrote it on the lid. I'm worried it's to small of wire done by Joe smo.
the box is rated for 100amps. you would need to check the breaker that feeds the box and the service cable to make sure it is getting 100amps. if so then you can run 100amps at 240v or 200amps at 120v; or a combination of both (i.e. 50 amps at 240v and 100 amps at 120v). looks like you have 2 20 amp tandem breakers. they look like the dual breaker kinds and not the 240v kind. so that means you have wired up 80 amps at 120v which leaves you another 80-100 amps at 120v if you play it safe. so 10,000w more or less.
that's why i said this in my first response.
 

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
I saw that. I'm not argueing with you. But any homeowner can add sub boxes to there house not up to code. And I don't feel right about telling them how to upgrade the (shed box) without seeing the main. If the guy has to ask this question he dosnt know much. If I don't feel safe telling them how to do it I don't want them to do it. Trust me I know you know what you are saying. But dose he?
 

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
Not to many people know about amps and the size wires realy needed for the amps. I've gone to houses using 16 gauge wires to run there 240 dryers. So to some a wire is a wire.
 

ScoobyDoobyDoo

Well-Known Member
hey bud, you are fine. you have a 100amps like i suspected going to your sub panel. that is 100amps at 240v. just refer to everything i said to you before. it was 100% correct and applicable.
 

Budologist420

Well-Known Member
Thanks bro, stay tuned will have a thread up soon for this room. Gonna be lots of testing done in here, Cali Connection, TGA genetics, Gage Green, clone only strains from here in Cali. Gonna be fun!
 

ScoobyDoobyDoo

Well-Known Member
Thanks bro, stay tuned will have a thread up soon for this room. Gonna be lots of testing done in here, Cali Connection, TGA genetics, Gage Green, clone only strains from here in Cali. Gonna be fun!
sounds good man. send me a link when you get the thread started. would love to see that. if you have anymore questions just let me know. i build high end homes for a living so i know a lot about electrical and general contracting. feel free to pick my brain. good luck brotha!
 

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
Yup that's set up right. But I wouldn't go with 6000w and add AC and all that. It's only a 200 service to the house.
 

ScoobyDoobyDoo

Well-Known Member
Yup that's set up right. But I wouldn't go with 6000w and add AC and all that. It's only a 200 service to the house.
6000w would definitely be pushing it but i think doable. He's not using a lot in the house and even running another 9,000 watts off that board wouldn't affect anything assuming the wiring is correct. You have to remember that for large items like the A/C and the Oven they aren't pulling even close to the rated amps on those breakers. 240v breakers are always oversized by 50% in my experience. Then, all those 20amp breakers are probably well below their rated amps as well; and some of them are spares. In my opinion he's got plenty of room.
 

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
So true. I might over think things but go by error of caution. So without being there to know. I estimate 80% load on each. And that is getting close.
 
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