heat
- Thread starter dmn0712
- Start date
dmn0712
Well-Known Member
yeah i added the intake about 3 days ago but the temp only dropped by 10, i only have the intake on when the lights are on because when there off it drops to about 70
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
You need bigger fans...
I am sorry to see you spend this kind of cash and not have it work 100% perfect from the time you plugged it in...
I would complain to the factory... at least try to get them to replace your fans with bigger ones...
I suppose you could get another filter and use your intake as an exhaust...
That will bring you to total 264CFMminus bends, minus filters, should be enough...
I say that cabinet needs 400CFM per fan...
400 for the lights... and 400 exhaust.. with a passive intake unless you need to bring COLD air from ac or outside...
But I like overkill... I like to know that I control the environment...
I am sorry to see you spend this kind of cash and not have it work 100% perfect from the time you plugged it in...
I would complain to the factory... at least try to get them to replace your fans with bigger ones...
I suppose you could get another filter and use your intake as an exhaust...
That will bring you to total 264CFMminus bends, minus filters, should be enough...
I say that cabinet needs 400CFM per fan...
400 for the lights... and 400 exhaust.. with a passive intake unless you need to bring COLD air from ac or outside...
But I like overkill... I like to know that I control the environment...
dmn0712
Well-Known Member
yeah i think i will do that, buy another filter connect that to my intake and have them both blowing the hot air out. do you think that would work? the room i have the unit in gets up to 80degress tops.You need bigger fans...
I am sorry to see you spend this kind of cash and not have it work 100% perfect from the time you plugged it in...
I would complain to the factory... at least try to get them to replace your fans with bigger ones...
I suppose you could get another filter and use your intake as an exhaust...
That will bring you to total 264CFMminus bends, minus filters, should be enough...
I say that cabinet needs 400CFM per fan...
400 for the lights... and 400 exhaust.. with a passive intake unless you need to bring COLD air from ac or outside...
But I like overkill... I like to know that I control the environment...
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
It will help...
Someone suggested 200cfm is enough... they may be right...
in my opinion it is border line at best... and if you are in Europa, summer is coming right?!?!
weedaweedaweed
Well-Known Member
probably on the box that it came in, doubt it says on the fan itself.
dmn0712
Well-Known Member
thats correct, england so gunna get real hot in about 4 months!
weedaweedaweed
Well-Known Member
quit screwing around with intake and crap like that and just get a big fucking exhaust fan. real big.
5 pages and tons of fluctuating info.. i know hardly shit about growing bud but,
i'm a mechanical engineer, 100% of the time when we build a machine which can have like 10 server processors inside a very small area. the way we mount the exhaust fans (always at the top) and intake inlets as close to the floor as possible. i can tell based on our own in-house analysis, that air being forced into an enclosed area is about 40% less efficient than air being sucked out. the intakes DOES NOT have to be bigger than exhaust.. if both openings are 8" you will get more air coming in than the fan is taking out! again, it's because there is more pressure on the outside trying to get in, than getting out. unless you have a huge grow room anything over 300 cfm is overkill and not really needed.
there is a lot more air outside of the box, when you suck air out (exhaust) this greater pressure difference forces a lot more air IN, than trying to push it out of a small area into a bigger room. it's very effective if your exhaust is pushing into a different area (ie different room or outside) than the inlet.
i guarantee if you move your exhaust on the ceiling and passive intake on the floor then you would see the temperature drop substantially.
obviously this would only work if your primary room is at least 20-30 degrees cooler than the area you are trying to cool.
you don't even need a huge fan. a 150-200 cfm fan can replace the air inside that box every 15~ seconds..
another tip, you can cool the air even further that is coming in by getting some honeycomb cardboard (pic) soaking it in water and putting it over the intake. as air passes thru comb the water cools the air more and can actually bring the temp that is coming in about 10 degrees cooler than it previously was.
hope this helps.
i'm a mechanical engineer, 100% of the time when we build a machine which can have like 10 server processors inside a very small area. the way we mount the exhaust fans (always at the top) and intake inlets as close to the floor as possible. i can tell based on our own in-house analysis, that air being forced into an enclosed area is about 40% less efficient than air being sucked out. the intakes DOES NOT have to be bigger than exhaust.. if both openings are 8" you will get more air coming in than the fan is taking out! again, it's because there is more pressure on the outside trying to get in, than getting out. unless you have a huge grow room anything over 300 cfm is overkill and not really needed.
there is a lot more air outside of the box, when you suck air out (exhaust) this greater pressure difference forces a lot more air IN, than trying to push it out of a small area into a bigger room. it's very effective if your exhaust is pushing into a different area (ie different room or outside) than the inlet.
i guarantee if you move your exhaust on the ceiling and passive intake on the floor then you would see the temperature drop substantially.
obviously this would only work if your primary room is at least 20-30 degrees cooler than the area you are trying to cool.
you don't even need a huge fan. a 150-200 cfm fan can replace the air inside that box every 15~ seconds..
another tip, you can cool the air even further that is coming in by getting some honeycomb cardboard (pic) soaking it in water and putting it over the intake. as air passes thru comb the water cools the air more and can actually bring the temp that is coming in about 10 degrees cooler than it previously was.
hope this helps.
weedaweedaweed
Well-Known Member
^what he said basically.
I have a 50cfm fan on top of my grow box and two holes in the bottom for intake, temps stay perfect. Mind you I am producing a lot less heat, but the principle remains the same.
I have a 50cfm fan on top of my grow box and two holes in the bottom for intake, temps stay perfect. Mind you I am producing a lot less heat, but the principle remains the same.
weedaweedaweed
Well-Known Member
As long as your humidity levels stay ok an AC unit is fine. You'll probably find it's cheaper to run a proper fan though.
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
AC is a last resort and in your case I would deff. keep that ace up my sleeve for summer...
If you ventilate properly, you do not need ac.. especially in the winter...
mannurse801
Well-Known Member
This is basically what I told him.. no?