Heating while I cool....

I've heard of people bringing in outside cold air then running it through the lights into the grow area and that keeping it cold. but I've always wondered if there would be an issue of moisture from the cold to hot... unfortunatly I don't have much experience with that as I grow in a basement and heat isn't much of an issue. GLthough sounds like one hell of a set up

cold air is perfectly fine you just have to not get close to the "dew point" otherwise that will be where the air gets saturated and then you'll have moisture problems...

that is if the air is also being passed through filters etc... and 250 cfm may not cut it as far as movement is concerned if you have filters going through...
it might cause the cold air from settling too much in your ventilation ducts...

if you use one main large scrubber this shouldnt be an issue as if you are feeding the hot air back into the house then just check that there is plenty air pressure coming out and you should be okay

cannofbliss said:

cold air is perfectly fine you just have to not get close to the "dew point" otherwise that will be where the air gets saturated and then you'll have moisture problems...

that is if the air is also being passed through filters etc... and 250 cfm may not cut it as far as movement is concerned if you have filters going through...
it might cause the cold air from settling too much in your ventilation ducts...
if you use one main large scrubber this shouldnt be an issue as if you are feeding the hot air back into the house then just check that there is plenty air pressure coming out and you should be okay

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I agree 250 CFM fan sounds real light..I would double that per two 1000W HPS.

I have 6 1k's and 3 600's... the 1k's have 2 8" inline fans 1per set of three lights and the room has a 24k mini split to cool the rest.. I do have the ballasts, Dehumidifier and chiller in the same room... outside air in, through the lights and out.... 1000 watters still produce radiant heat... the room can stay at 75 degrees no matter how hot or cold it s outside....

donutpunched said:

I have 6 1k's and 3 600's... the 1k's have 2 8" inline fans 1per set of three lights and the room has a 24k mini split to cool the rest.. I do have the ballasts, Dehumidifier and chiller in the same room... outside air in, through the lights and out.... 1000 watters still produce radiant heat... the room can stay at 75 degrees no matter how hot or cold it s outside....

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that sounds lovely

So the consensus I'm hearing is 500cfm per 1000w, use cold air, but use speed control to prevent condensation on light tube. In case any one is wondering, I call this style "Open Colosseum". I just couldn't bring myself to pick just 1 side of any plant, so I started thinking...A majority of natural light is NOT from above, but rather from the side 75% of the time. So I ran a test. Light on all sides and the top. YOU SHOU,SHOU,SHOU,SHOU,SHOULD TRY THIS! You don't have to lolli pop, or bend at all. But your friends will think your nuts! (90 sq feet with 6,000 watts) Until they see the hedges! Oh, and I'm choosing dial up/downs, so I can cut back to 600's if I overdose them with heat/light

Thank you every one for the input. This will be my first large scale flower room after many tests and around two years of research. Organic NFT will be delivered into net pots suspended in a 18" PVC pipe every 2 feet. Large pipes will drain to Reservoir. 6hr back up battery for air pumps/irrigation. Contemplated buying the new grow bot, but the wife started loading the shotgun whispering, "I knew he'd go to far", so I decided I wanted to be more involved with my garden! =) Budget is just over 5K, for those of you who are curious. Picture a vert/hori dutch grow, and shrink it down to a 12 plant set up...Nom Nom

sounds awesome.

obviously your going to be using CO2?

Roof paint is tar based. Heat makes it drop. And smells like shit. Keep it out of your room. Sikaflex 1a is a safe sealant to use.

BeaverHuntr said:

I agree 250 CFM fan sounds real light..I would double that per two 1000W HPS.

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I mis-understood your post, and I suspect you may have misread mine. =)

That was 250cfm PER 1000watts, so a total of 1500cfm fan for all six lights! With speed control for condensation. Yes?

And you were saying 500cfm fan per pair of 1,000's so basically where I was at? 250cfm per bulb=1500cfm bulb fan?

Warlock1369 said:

Roof paint is tar based. Heat makes it drop. And smells like shit. Keep it out of your room. Sikaflex 1a is a safe sealant to use.

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This stuff is like rubber paint. Not only a sealer, but a 98% reflective paint as well. So kinda like the rubber dip stuff they advertise on TV, but in a 5 gallon pail. Used to seal roofs and such. Think reflective blue max. But yea, I agree, tar would be a nightmare. The fumes alone, yuck!

http://www.amesresearch.com/_maximum-stretch.html

Advise if it is still what you think it is...

Thedillestpickle said:

sounds awesome.

obviously your going to be using CO2?

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For now I will be using House air. My house air sits at 450-475ppm. I know it's not 1500, but I have children, and they live with me, so c02 is NOT an option now, but I'm sealing the room to have more control, and if I ever choose to run co2 later, I don't have to re-design....

Oh, and let's not forget, when the Umbrella Corp. drops the T-Cell, I will have an air tight room to wait until initial exposure has settled =)

That ames stuff looks like the shit. Will be waiting to see how it works for you. Also guys I have been running a co2 fully enclosed flower room with 6 600s with 6in blockbusters. The first 2 hoods in line were getting drenched and dripping all over the place like i had hydro in my hand fed soiless room. So to fix it first i un hooked the air system to open it up and vent cold air into the room and hot air through the lights and outside. Of course turned off the co2 for all this very sucky. Next I got the biggest dehumidifier wally world sells 65 pint per day or some shit and hooked it up with a drain hose and a five gallon bucket to get it to run through the whole night cycle. So anyways my question is weither or not it would be ok to hook up my vents and turn the co2 back on with the new dehumidifier? The room is 10x10x8 and it is wall to wall with 4 foot bushes. Will just taking the humidity down stop the freezing cold air from causing a problem?

well it depends how far down you bring the RH. as the air cools when it touches the tube its RH rises until dewpoint is acheived, The less RH you have in your room the cooler the air you could run through the tubes. I guess If I really knew alot about air moisture I could pull out some equations and give you exacting numbers to determine precisely whatll happen...You would have to probably factor in variables such as temperuture, RH, barometric pressure. but I think trial and error ought to provide a good answer.

That rubber paint stuff sounds fucking awesome, Im gunna check it out. I am "sealing" my room with fucking tuck tape right now and its pretty ghetto.

that stuff does look pretty sweet, Can it be applied with a pain-brush? I might even be able to just apply it right over the tuck tape, if I get the primer. My rooms working for what it is but I kinda just whipped it all together in a day. where the ceiling meets the foundation is pretty ugly.

Thedillestpickle said:

that stuff does look pretty sweet, Can it be applied with a pain-brush? I might even be able to just apply it right over the tuck tape, if I get the primer. My rooms working for what it is but I kinda just whipped it all together in a day. where the ceiling meets the foundation is pretty ugly.

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Yes, you can brush it on, but a roller and pan are a lot faster. I've always applied it to dry wall, so duct tape shouldn't be a problem. Unless the tape started sagging, remember this stuff stretches, so it will hang if it loses adhesion. But there is a primer you can use to solve that =)

It really is amazing stuff.

but I'm sealing the room to have more control,
Sealing like airtight? You know a sealed room must have CO2 addition or the plants will hardly grow, right?
Fred