Pedro Mello
Well-Known Member
Is it ok if only the yellow part of the cob be on contact with the Alpine 11?
In this case it'll fit.
Heatsinks for DIY LED lamps
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
In this case it'll fit.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
If you can fully mount it so the entire COB is touching the heatsinks it's fine. Holder isn't as important.
I would like to know the size of the Vero29 heatsink(the one in the back of the chip), Anyone?
The only Active heatsinks that i found on my country that may fit is the Alpine 64 GT (cant find plus size), it ill fit the heatsink area of a vero 29?
They will run a vero 29 at 100w
The only Active heatsinks that i found on my country that may fit is the Alpine 64 GT (cant find plus size), it ill fit the heatsink area of a vero 29?
They will run a vero 29 at 100w
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Should work! Below is the Vero29 datasheet. Don't know if its the latest revision but dimensions for Vero29 are always the same. But its not fail safe! Always check the fans when you visit your grow area because if a fan or fan driver gets defective the COB would get really hot and could burn out over time. The alpine64 can handle only 40-50w without fan (<85°C).
Hey guys. I have access to a cnc lathe/mill and could save a lot on making my own heatsinks for my first diy cob build. I would just like your opinion on the design I have in mind, and see if it´s worth my time and money making them..
So the material would be Alu 6082 100mm dm round bar. I would have a 15mm base with 15mm deep fins. Each fin would be 4-6mm wide and the slot between each fin would be 8mm.. I can either make the fins vertical. Or both vertical and horizontal. I would run them passively at 50-60w per cob. Amber temp is usually 20-25.
Any thoughts?
So the material would be Alu 6082 100mm dm round bar. I would have a 15mm base with 15mm deep fins. Each fin would be 4-6mm wide and the slot between each fin would be 8mm.. I can either make the fins vertical. Or both vertical and horizontal. I would run them passively at 50-60w per cob. Amber temp is usually 20-25.
Any thoughts?
nederwierie
Active Member
Should this 300 MM x 41 MM x 8 MM heatsink work for 3 x CXA2540 in parralel or serie on an total of 50 watts ?
Offcourse active cooled with 3 ventilatorcoolers on top.
Edit: I am stoned and just realize the fans are 100 MM themselves.
So it is 300 MM x 100 MM x 8 MM .
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Pic didn't work.
Should this 300 MM x 41 MM x 8 MM heatsink work for 3 x CXA2540 in parralel or serie on an total of 50 watts ?
Offcourse active cooled with 3 ventilatorcoolers on top.
Edit: I am stoned and just realize the fans are 100 MM themselves.
So it is 300 MM x 100 MM x 8 MM .
But 4X12" is decent, 8mm height total? Any idea the base thickness??
Regardless, if there's 3 fans as wide as the heatsink, it will cool 50watts no problem.
nederwierie
Active Member
Sorry for the late response , i also changed some plans.
For now i have this heatsinks : 6 CM x 10 CM x 1 CM height, with an baseplate of 2 MM thick.
What i want to do use 9 heatsinks from above size and place a Cree CXA2530 on each heatsink,
i use 2 chinese drivers, the one of 30 Watt i use for 3 heatsinks and the 50 W driver for the other 6 heatsinks/cobs.
So on the 30 W for the 3 cobs = 10 Watt per cob and the 6 on the other 50 Watt driver = 8,3 Watt per cob.
This is for a microgrowspace of 45 CM x 50 CM x 1 Meter height for 1 or 2 plants .
Now i´ve used a calculatorwebsite for heatsinks and i don´t know if i calculated something woring but when i use in the calculating 10 Watt per heatsink and 8 Watt per heatsink they say it´s enough heatsink size.
Is this true ? That calculators confuse me a little and i think i calculated something wrong.
I will use active coolling with 80x80 MM computerfans @ 8 Volt.
I hope you can answer my question so i can build this bad ass lamp
The parts are laying around here for some time so it cost me little .
In my country alpine 64plus stop selling. Last time i use this. Work perfect. Can you please recomend some other which one fit for vero29 with 70w? Can i use alpine 64pro? But It is not flat. Thx
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
As long as you can find out the dimensions of the raised are and determine whether a Vero can fit or not, it will work.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Not flat isn't important. What's important is that the cob can lay on the raised part and make contact to the whole cob.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
But the entire Light Emitting Surface (LES) which is what's generating heat, is fully contacted, therefore will be fine.
topcat
Well-Known Member
Consider MechaTronix IceLED coolers. They have holes and screw sites that will likely fit, though they're not tapped.
https://www.led-heatsink.com/down-light-cooler/active-led-cooler-for-high-bay-and-industrial-iceled ultra vs?returnurl=/down-light-cooler/?count=20#iceled+ultra+vs
ItsABeautifulThing
Member
Hey all you cool cats and kittens,
First post in several years.
I was under a different name long ago but I forgot the name I used.
Anyway, I have a question about heat sink size if anyone has the time to help me double check this. I would greatly appreciate it.
I did the math to passively cool 150 watts of heat from my LEDs, and then I had a heat sink made.
Specs are 198mm x 200mm x 66mm ::
- 9mm thick base
- 27 fins @ 2mm thick
- 6063 Aluminum
I have attached the image of the specs.
I have become uncomfortable with how hot the heat sink is getting.
So I redid the math, and now I'm finding that I need 200mm x 220mm x 66mm dimension to passively cool the LEDs.
It's not much of a difference but I don't like that I've gotten different numbers. So now I'm completely doubting my ability to do math. Maybe my math has been wrong all along and is still wrong....
I don't typically ask for help, but if anyone would be kind enough to help me with this, I would really appreciate the help.
I have a lot of free time right now and I really need to figure this out. I can't not finish something I have started.
Thanks again for any help!
Hope you all are staying safe out there!
First post in several years.
I was under a different name long ago but I forgot the name I used.
Anyway, I have a question about heat sink size if anyone has the time to help me double check this. I would greatly appreciate it.
I did the math to passively cool 150 watts of heat from my LEDs, and then I had a heat sink made.
Specs are 198mm x 200mm x 66mm ::
- 9mm thick base
- 27 fins @ 2mm thick
- 6063 Aluminum
I have attached the image of the specs.
I have become uncomfortable with how hot the heat sink is getting.
So I redid the math, and now I'm finding that I need 200mm x 220mm x 66mm dimension to passively cool the LEDs.
It's not much of a difference but I don't like that I've gotten different numbers. So now I'm completely doubting my ability to do math. Maybe my math has been wrong all along and is still wrong....
I don't typically ask for help, but if anyone would be kind enough to help me with this, I would really appreciate the help.
I have a lot of free time right now and I really need to figure this out. I can't not finish something I have started.
Thanks again for any help!
Hope you all are staying safe out there!
Attachments
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Just mount a PC fan on top of the fins pushing air INTO THEM. You can power it with something as simple as a 12v wall wart. You probably got a few lying around the house from old phone chargers and what not. That's your cheapest option other than dimming your driver.
A lot cheaper than having a whole new sink fabricated... Plus when you had it made, you always in all aspects of builds, wanna go bigger than needed. Whether it's a driver, heatsinks, extra strips/cobs, or what have you. Never a bad thing to have more when you need it then to not have it at all!
ItsABeautifulThing
Member
I do have some 200mm fans which will fit perfectly over this.
Fan Specs:
90cfm
.2A
12v
Rifled bearing (40,000+ hour lifespan)
If I can find some 200ma drivers at a constant 12v, I think that would work just fine.
I was simply trying to avoid using moving parts (fans). However if I want to make use of these LEDs with this panel comfortably, then a fan I must use.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
You don't need to have it be 200ma. Any 12v power supply should work fine. But 1/4amp 12v supplies aren't hard to come by.
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Keesje
Well-Known Member
In general: Even the slightest airflow will cool your heatsinks down.
I did a test with a very precise thermometer attached to a heatsink. Even when I walked by, I saw the numbers go down. Not a lot of course, but still.
So with a fan it will work even better.
Another (and imo an even more important) benefit is, that with having a fan above your led pushing the air down, is that more heat will get to your canopy.
Where with HPS you want to suck away the heat, with led we sometimes want the heat to go to our leaves to reach the best temperature.
If you want to know if only a passive heatsink will do, you can use this calculator.
You said you have plenty of time, so perhaps you can figure it out.
I once found a much simpeler calculation somewhere, but can't find it anymore. I was something like: If you want to cool something 1 degree down, you need x cm2 of aluminium surface. It was over simplified of course, but it was a handy tool.
I did a test with a very precise thermometer attached to a heatsink. Even when I walked by, I saw the numbers go down. Not a lot of course, but still.
So with a fan it will work even better.
Another (and imo an even more important) benefit is, that with having a fan above your led pushing the air down, is that more heat will get to your canopy.
Where with HPS you want to suck away the heat, with led we sometimes want the heat to go to our leaves to reach the best temperature.
If you want to know if only a passive heatsink will do, you can use this calculator.
You said you have plenty of time, so perhaps you can figure it out.
I once found a much simpeler calculation somewhere, but can't find it anymore. I was something like: If you want to cool something 1 degree down, you need x cm2 of aluminium surface. It was over simplified of course, but it was a handy tool.