help anyone

ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
You can not add anything to your reservoir that is not made to go into hydro with nutrient salts.
 
D

dwceazy

Member
bryan100030 said:
What is "bennies"? Are you referring to seeds?? Would like to help.
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thanx great white ive heard though using mycos in dwc the ph doesnt matter as much but 7+ is alot can it be that high with no lockouts this has only started happening since i started ro water and great white
 
SouthCross

SouthCross

Well-Known Member
dwceazy said:
why do people use teas and plant success say it is ok to go in res directly
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Where did you read that? Compost Tea is a three day mixture for soil. In hydro it's a mess of watered down mud. PH go's up when there's an organism bloom. Usually the all in one indication that the water needs replaced. You can adjust it down but it'll float back up in a day.

Tea is for soil.
 
D

dwceazy

Member
SouthCross said:
Where did you read that? Compost Tea is a three day mixture for soil. In hydro it's a mess of watered down mud. PH go's up when there's an organism bloom. Usually the all in one indication that the water needs replaced. You can adjust it down but it'll float back up in a day.

Tea is for soil.
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heisenberg tea richy rich tea on this site actually
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
dwceazy said:
should i give her a h2o2 bath then
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No, simply dump and refill the res.

Another answer is that you should know that daily rising pH is "normal". You should be checking and adjusting everyday at lights on. To a point......Different nutrients are best available at differing pH values. Attempting to "hold" a single pH value in hydro is a losing proposition on several levels....

#1: You can't - should be understood to start.

#2: Allowing a "swing" in pH value is actually a benefit! Nature does so in soil - "It" gets watered and the pH value of the soil drops by about a whole point....(why 6.5 and 6.7 are the "go-to" set points for soil pH). In hydro. It's given that 5.5 to 6.2 is the "sweet" spot for hydro. You set the res to your chosen "low" value and allow it to rise to the high (or more over a 24hr period).

Example - direct from old notes: Set pH value to 5.7 - 5.8 and walk away. Next day: pH value rose to 6.4 - Adjusted to 5.7 and done. Next day: pH value rose to 6.3 - Adjusted to 5.7........You get the idea now?

Why do "I" chose to adjust or set to 5.7/5.8? I have found more problems - faster at lower values! With "my" set ups and environmental conditions (water especially), that's what worked the "best" for "me".

If your getting that big a rise, that fast. Lower pH value set point maybe the answer to staying better "in" that "sweet spot" your trying to maintain. Like, going down to that 5.5 low value "limit"...... I would not even try to go lower then that! You'l be loosing too much Ca,Mg and Mo.

I like to say that the best pH range for hydro is between 5.8 and 6.2 - this is the "real" sweet spot, as everything is available in that range...... So set to 5.7 everyday at lights on. In time, the plant and it's pH swing should become less and far more "regular". You simply adjust as needed then..

Lastly. SouthernCross and ANC are very correct about not using AACT in hydro applications. There are types of beneficial's that will work in hydro. "Zyme" labeled ones are a real good place to start. These will "eat" the shed cellulose from the roots and supply the result to the plant - it keeps the res cleaner and the nutrient in the res, viable longer. NEVER add Molasses to hydro!

Be not mistaken that you have to dump and refill that res as needed still too! That's another question though eh?
 
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