help on clones

cali-high

Well-Known Member
hi guys


well i have 5 clones and i plucked off the bad leaves put them into water then prepared the rooting powder and then put em into hockey pucks aka peat moss pucks. then i put em into the dome under my 2 floros to grow theyre roots.


heres my questions.

i have a jiffy propagation dome and the plastic top piece is not to high but not to low. like half the size of the domes on videos. will these work?


i have the floro running 24/7 in my grow room so its a humid temp.


and do you guys water your clones when theyre rooting? i dont think so, so i just spray the lid of the dome so it get very humid.



let me know thanks



do i need to buy a new propagation dome because as of now the clones are hitting the room of my dome.


peace
cali-high:joint:


clones:hump:
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
Be creative. Use what you have or can buy from a salvation army type store:

Contributed By: Leaf

This is a method that was passed on to me by an old grower friend. I have found this method to work with the most difficult and stubborn cuttings, including the strains that are labeled "difficult to clone".

Materials Needed




terrarium/old fishtank (I picked this one up at a garage sale for $0.25)
waterbed heater w/thermostat (same garage sale, $2.00)
fluorescent light
peat pellets
spray bottle
saran wrap (not shown)

Optional:
No-Damp
2x4's, plywood, light switch

Hang light to the desiered area, a 20 watt is reccomended for this project.
Now that my light is hung and ready, the next step is to lay out the waterbed heating pad. The pad is laid out so that the terrarium will be sitting directly ontop of it.



The thermostat is placed near by for easy access, and it is set at 80deg F for most cuttings. If rooting tropical varieties, I would suggest a setting nearer 90deg F.



The next step is preparation of the terrarium. I took mine down to the laundry sink and scrubbed it clean using detergent. I would not recommend using bleach, for bleach leaves a residue toxic to your plants. Once it is thoroughly cleaned, and dry, fill the bottom two inches with soil. I prefer to use Sunshine Mix #4. Once complete, place the terrarium ontop of the heating pad and beneath the light.



I mix the required amount of No-Damp into the water, before moistening the soil within the terrarium. Dampen the soil, do not leave it dry and do not make it wet. This will keep the peat pellet at the correct moisture.



Now is time to take your freshly cut clones and place them into peat pellets which have been expanded. The trick here is to bury the pellets most of the way into the soil, this will keep the pellets moist, warm, and will allow the roots to grow into the soil.

The pellet on the right is sitting ontop of the soil, the pellet on the left is correctly buried into the soil.



Once you have all the pellets in place, you are ready to place the temperature probe from the waterbed heating pad. I like to place the probe just above the soil, but not touching the soil, terrarium, or any plants and pellets. This will regulate the temperature within the terrarium to keep your new cuttings happy.



Mix up a spray bottle of cold water and the appropriate amount of No-Damp. Give the plants, the soil, and the inside walls of the terrarium a good misting. Mist everything without making the water bead and runoff.



Cover the terrarium with saran wrap to maintain humidity and temperature. Ensure to leave a one inch gap for fresh air.



Now you are all set to get started. Plug everything in, turn on your light and waterbed heating pad. The pad will warm your environment to optimum temperatures, plus you have just made a high humidity environment for your plants to root.
Now, just watch it go. There is really nothing more to do, the pellets will moisturize themselves from the soil and the temperature will remain the same. Check it daily, and give the inside of the terrarium a light misting, if needed. As long as there is still moisture on the terrarium glass, misting is not needed.



As long as your cloning methods are solid, in seven to ten days you will have roots running through the soil. The cutting pictured is shown at day ten, and some roots had to be broken to remove it from the soil.

 

cali-high

Well-Known Member
hi thanks for the help. i think im gonna go into town and go get another propagation dome so i can have room for them to grow. i light ect is every good ive been studying how to clone but i have only tried once with one plant and i was successful so i got alot of spirit.


thanks im growing traiwreck thanks to a good friend.


peace
cali-high
 

cali-high

Well-Known Member
yes very good post.


my clones were sent in the mail and theyre looking alright they were in the mail for 4 days and they had water the leaves arnt looking to great. but i think my little babes will pull through. with the help of theyre daddy lol.


peace
 

dursky

Well-Known Member
very good... i do the same. i just add a container of water and put some bubble rocks in that water.. then cover
 

mr_issues

Well-Known Member
I got a question... I am using a aerogarden... If I wanted to clone, would it work to just add root tone to the water and stick the cuttings directly in the sponges?
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
I hope this helps!


Contributed by: 10k
Submitted:
Images archived: 2001

Preparing the clones for aero tub cloning
The following information applies to all types of aero cloners, not just the cheapo-aero tub.

There are a few things that need to be done in order to get the best results when aero cloning. Preparing the future cuttings before they're cut from the donor plant. Followed by final trimming, soaking, leaf trimming and lastly, cutting to length and loading the cloner.

Prepare the mom...

Before cutting the cuts from the donor, hold a support tube next to the future cutting and determine whether or not any nodes will be inside of the support tube. If there are any nodes in that area, trim them flush to the stem with a cuticle nipper or similar tool. Do the same for all the growth tips you plan on taking for this batch of clones. Allow the trimmed mom to heal up overnight before you actually take the cuttings off the donor. This step will keep the cuts from trying to make roots inside of the tubes, and will help prevent stem rot within the support tubes.


Take the cuttings the following day...

Cut them a little longer for now, using a sharp scissors or razor blade.








Trim away the nodes...

Trim any nodes from the portion of the stem that will be below the support tubes. Af uses a cuticle nipper for this task and cut them flush to the stem.







Soak all the trimmed cuttings in cool water...


Allow all the cuts to soak for at least a half hour in cool tap water. The water soak will get all the cuttings nice and turgid, and the chlorine in the tap water will help sterilize the cuttings.






Trim the leaf blades...

Cutting the blades in half as shown will cut moisture loss in half. This leaf trimming will also help to slow down premature yellowing caused by too much or too intense lighting.









Load em up...

Load the finished cuttings into the support tubes in the lid and cut the stems to length with a razor blade. You want the stems to hang about one inch below the tubes. While you are loading the tub, the air pump should be running to start the wetting process, let it run for about an hour before you set up the air pump on the timer.

Use the timer please...
Cycle the timer on and off with the timer set for 30 minutes on by 60 to 90 minutes off (depending on the environment).

About that little heater...
The six dollar 7-1/2 watt fishbowl heater has no thermostat. It must be connected to the same timer you'll be running the air pump, using a two prong multi-tap adapter in the timers socket, otherwise the heater will overheat the water. If you are building your own cheapo and can find a small fully submersible heater with thermostatic control, I highly recommend buying and using that instead of the cheap little heater. In some situations and in warmer rooms, running a heater may not be necessary. Walmart has a cheap little two dollar thermometer which can be left floating in the tub for checking the water temperature.

Misting and/or a dome...
You may need to mist the cuttings once or twice the first day, but from then on they should not need any more misting. If you have a very dry environment (low rh) you can place a large plastic bag over the entire tub to maintain a higher humidity.

No nutes !
Use only distilled water or tap water in the cloner.
Do not add any ferts to the water, it will only cause fungus problems and failed clones due to stem rot from the fungus.

For impossible strains only...
If you have a really hard to clone strain (like big bud), you can add one tespoon of dip-n-grow liquid per half gallon of water and run it for the first twelve hours.
Change to straight ph'd water after the first twelve hours.

Change the water...
Always change the water in the cloner daily for the first few days. This will help keep the cloner and cuttings clean.

Never use intense lighting for cloning...
You want the flourescent lighting to be a foot or two away from the top of the tub. Closer or more intense lighting will cause premature yellowing and failures.

ph the water...
Keep the water in the tub ph'd to a range between 5.0 and 6.0. Higher ph will cause failures. Use phosphoric acid to lower the ph.

Water temperature...
Keep the water temperature between 75f and 80f.
Higher temps will cause fungus, lower temps will cause stasis, stalled or failed clones.

Be patient...roots will develop soon...

The best part of aero cloning is the satisfaction of seeing the roots develop. Some strains will start rooting as fast as five days, others will take as long as two weeks. Most will at least show root bumps starting within one week, with roots blasting out a few days after the bumps. Remember though, that a clone showing root bumps is ready for transfer to a hydro medium or system where it can start receiving weak nutes.





Aero rooted clones

are perfect for transplanting directly into grow rocks or lava rock in hydroponic systems like ebb & flow or deep water culture. They are also suitable for soil growing if they are transplanted properly at the right stage of rooting.

Happy cloning,
10k
 

cali-high

Well-Known Member
alright i havew my clones in a dome i mist the top of the dome to keep things humid for the plants. theyre looking alright kinda droopy but hay they were in the mail for 4 days and nothing i can do but hope they pull through
 

Garden Knowm

The Love Doctor
hi CAli..

if you have a dome on your clones and the medium (rockwool) is oist, you should not need to spray them... there should be plenty of moisture in the dome...

are you using any lighting?

cheers
 

Blazin24/7

Well-Known Member
I am also growing Trainwreck thanks to a special friend......Thanks FDD, I was wondering Cali is.....do you have trouble getting your trainwreck clones to take...I have had the worst time with the Trainwreck clones....As this is how I wanted to sex them....Now I am just waiting on the preflowers...as I don't want to stress the whole plant into and then out of flowering......I have currently got 4 Trainwreck that are healthy but unsexed......I lost 4 due to different problems....over fert, under water, over water, gnats... you name it I think I have all that shit under control...now..... I just want to clone this plant and I am having no such luck I have tried my seedling starter dome...I have tried my fish tank (clean of coarse), with the waterbed heater...and the right amount of humidity.....???????????? So any help is and would be awesome......:peace:

hi thanks for the help. i think im gonna go into town and go get another propagation dome so i can have room for them to grow. i light ect is every good ive been studying how to clone but i have only tried once with one plant and i was successful so i got alot of spirit.


thanks im growing traiwreck thanks to a good friend.


peace
cali-high
 
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