Help seedling first leaves just not separating

orbo

Well-Known Member
Orbo...are you cheap?. 3 bucks for twentyfive here. Shit I throw half away because they dry out.,don't take it personal,just bustin your donkey
I am pretty cheap but I also have this thing that when a rooter brings forth to me a youngster, and I can pluck it to the cup, the it must be a DAMN FINE rooter with some good juju!! bongsmilie (also, I don't like them locked onto the base of my plant for the duration)
 

Michael Huntherz

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone I'm first time grower I germinated my seed in just tap water in a heated propagator and cover so was dark for 24 hours then she cracked and sprouted a taproot very small then I put her in paper towel in a food bag back in propagator for another 24 hours covered still she sprouted about a 1/4 inch taproot then I put her in just shy of a pint plastic cup with holes in bottom and filled the cup with biobizz lightmix didn't flush with water just sprayed lightmix with plain room temp tap water put a food bag over the cup and put her in the heated propagator under my 300w duel spectrum cfl took about 3-4 days to sprout then she just stuck with her leaves like what's on pic stuck up not separating and I've checked her over no seed she'll or skin remainder now she's been stuck like this for 2-3 days please can someone help thank you
Be patient, simplify and simplify, also simplify and be patient. Stop fucking with them every five minutes, right now.
 

youngg

Well-Known Member
Or mutant as f**k but gonna keep her for a little bit see what goes on but as looking into it she could bud upside down or stay stumpy and weirdly over bushy gonna order some more seeds to going to get some more strawberry haze and gonna get some super lemon haze to
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
Some more pics today she's seems to be pulling though and does anyone know about the darker green colour on leaves oh and if you looks at next sets of leaves coming though she has 3
It looks good! The darker green is just chlorophyl(?) filling in. It might mean the soil is a little deficient in N. But, that's not something you should try to correct. After some grows you might fine tune by amending something into the soil before growing (or, water with very weak fish emulsion).

I'm testing MiracleGro Tomato and I see similar uneven green. IMO it's because that food is low in N. It's not bad. It just takes a little while for the leaves to accumulate or store (whatever it is that makes then dark green). In that grow I would have supplemented with AK Fish. But, my goal is to see how it grows by itself. It's doing fine, just not as immediately green as I'm accustomed.
 

youngg

Well-Known Member
It looks good! The darker green is just chlorophyl(?) filling in. It might mean the soil is a little deficient in N. But, that's not something you should try to correct. After some grows you might fine tune by amending something into the soil before growing (or, water with very weak fish emulsion).

I'm testing MiracleGro Tomato and I see similar uneven green. IMO it's because that food is low in N. It's not bad. It just takes a little while for the leaves to accumulate or store (whatever it is that makes then dark green). In that grow I would have supplemented with AK Fish. But, my goal is to see how it grows by itself. It's doing fine, just not as immediately green as I'm accustomed.
Thanks bro I'm really happy to see what she's has come from when she was poorly do you reckon if I lower her ph it will Hurt her but obviously in her next waterings and eventually feedings
 

youngg

Well-Known Member
I've got some soil here keepimg ready for her transplant flushing ph though but don't really want to transplant till about 6-7 inches
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
Thanks bro I'm really happy to see what she's has come from when she was poorly do you reckon if I lower her ph it will Hurt her but obviously in her next waterings and eventually feedings
I don't ph my water/nutrients. I think I only ph'ed because I used "calmag" which acidifies the water. I only used "calmag" because I used RO filtered water. Now I mix tap and RO to get 150ppm starting. I don't ph. As long as I don't overfeed (which can be seen in runoff ppm rising to 2000-2500ppm by early flower), I don't seem to have any issues. (I amend 1 to 1.5 Tbsp/gal dolomite into the soil too. That helps stabilize the ph. I use Fertilome Hi-Yield Agricultural Lime.). The soil swings a full point as it dries.

Ph'ing might be useful to you to eliminate that variable (if something goes wrong.). I would keep it between 6.2-6.5.

You've got awhile before transplanting. I would wait until the leaves are overhanging the container.
 

youngg

Well-Known Member
I don't ph my water/nutrients. I think I only ph'ed because I used "calmag" which acidifies the water. I only used "calmag" because I used RO filtered water. Now I mix tap and RO to get 150ppm starting. I don't ph. As long as I don't overfeed (which can be seen in runoff ppm rising to 2000-2500ppm by early flower), I don't seem to have any issues. (I amend 1 to 1.5 Tbsp/gal dolomite into the soil too. That helps stabilize the ph. I use Fertilome Hi-Yield Agricultural Lime.). The soil swings a full point as it dries.

Ph'ing might be useful to you to eliminate that variable (if something goes wrong.). I would keep it between 6.2-6.5.

You've got awhile before transplanting. I would wait until the leaves are overhanging the container.
Will she not get root bound as at min she's only in just short of a pint pot and the things I'll be using in veg are calmag, silicon , and 3 part floramicro, floragro ,florabloom advanced nutes I am using tap water so not using calmag till about 10 inches tall the soil is use come standard 6.2 my tap water 7.0 but arjan from ghs said perfect ph 5.5 and 5.7 good to but won't be using no nutes till bigger
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
Will she not get root bound as at min she's only in just short of a pint pot
I never worry about it, or have problems. I wait until the leaves overhang the container (considerably). I also become accustomed to how long it takes for the soil to dry when a plant has grown into a container. After I know that, I judge when to transplant based upon how fast the plant needs to be watered. (That's a chicken/egg thing. You can't know until you've grown a plant for awhile, and know what it feels like when a plant has filled a container).

and the things I'll be using in veg are calmag, silicon , and 3 part floramicro, floragro ,florabloom advanced nutes I am using tap water so not using calmag till about 10 inches tall the soil is use come standard 6.2 my tap water 7.0 but arjan from ghs said perfect ph 5.5 and 5.7 good to but won't be using no nutes till bigger
When you say "advanced nutes" what does that mean? What is the ppm of your tap water?

When I began growing I used GH Flora 3-part and the so-called Useless schedule. It worked fine. I'm sure you'll be happy. However, it's hydroponic nutrients. You can do better in soil using less expensive products, especially more organic products.

You only need "calmag" if your water is less than 150 ppm. Otherwise, you'll only use it to treat deficencies. But, it's better to treat Ca and Mg deficiencies individually using gypsum and epsom salt. Calmag is just a convenience, and it's really for hydro -- not soil.

Try to resist the multi-bottle addiction. Keep it simple. These things add up. A little "calmag" evil here, a little ph-up nonsense there. All these things add salts to your mix, leading to more salt buildup in the soil, leading to acidification, leading to deficiencies, leading to the use of more salts. (It's a spiral). In soil it doesn't have to be a chemistry lab. You'll want to think more about the health of the soil. All those synthetics are unhealthy for the soil.

You'll do fine. I would stick with the 3 bottles. Use silica to ph-up if you really feel inclined to ph your nutrients. Use Liquid Karma to promote a healthier soil (to compensate for the damage of the synthetic nutrients). Don't use anything else. A pinch of sugar (per gallon) in each watering will promote soil health. Mix enough to get 20-30% runoff to reduce salt buildup.
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
arjan from ghs said perfect ph 5.5 and 5.7 good to but won't be using no nutes till bigger
I may have misunderstood your medium. Soil is best at 6.5 But, soil has a lot of buffers and will pull water to its ph long before the water will pull the soil. It's only when nutrients are too strong (to high in ppm) that they pull the soil. This is exacerbated by salt buildup.

If you're using soilless (Pro-Mix HP, coco): 5.8-6.0 in veg, 6.0-6.2 in flower. Soiless doesn't have the "gravity" (for lack of a better word, maybe "potential" is a better word) to resist the ph of the nutrient mix. Ph'ing the nutrient mix is better.

What you describe sounds like hydro ph.
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
One more thing about transplanting. If you do it sooner rather than later, there will be less root mass holding the soil together. You're liable to have it fall apart on you, damaging the roots, stressing the plant, etc. That's another reason I give it time to fill in the container. If you look at the plant I linked to, it's in a 22oz container (slightly larger than a Solo cup). It's considerably larger than the last picture 2 days ago. (I'll post a new photo in awhile). It will get fed again tomorrow, and then I'll transplant the day after when it's hallway dry. I might wait for one more feeding Tuesday. So, it will be transplanted Monday or Wednesday.).
 
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