High PPM BS!!!

Ok look, I am not an idiot. Well not much. I can read, I can figure my way out of a paper bag and I can tell you I have read on this site over and over people saying that the ppm in flower should be 1500 to 2000 to 3000. I have seen people say to start at 2000 ppm. I have been in flower twice with very large plants more that 3 weeks in and every single time I go over 1100 ppm I get burn on some if not all. I keep my PH at 5.5 to 6.5 and never change it more than 1.0 in a 24 hour period. So if you can explain to me why this is then please do. I am in hydro tubes with an areo set up with two 4 inch air stones in each rez, air temps in the upper 70's, 1000 hps on mover, rez temps cool to the touch. So what do you experts have to say about PPMs that can help???

Bye the way I am using Bonicare bloom and grow and nothing else. I use a transition formula of both for the change to bloom and after 3 weeks change the rez and use bloom and bloom enhancer triplex.

Masterblaster777 said:

Ok look, I am not an idiot. Well not much. I can read, I can figure my way out of a paper bag and I can tell you I have read on this site over and over people saying that the ppm in flower should be 1500 to 2000 to 3000. I have seen people say to start at 2000 ppm. I have been in flower twice with very large plants more that 3 weeks in and every single time I go over 1100 ppm I get burn on some if not all. I keep my PH at 5.5 to 6.5 and never change it more than 1.0 in a 24 hour period. So if you can explain to me why this is then please do. I am in hydro tubes with an areo set up with two 4 inch air stones in each rez, air temps in the upper 70's, 1000 hps on mover, rez temps cool to the touch. So what do you experts have to say about PPMs that can help???

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I don't quite get your set up. I have run into similar issues every time my roots have grown into the reservoir, not sure if yours are or not. If it's an aero system then you will generaly not need as near of a strong nutrient solution as other methods. Also 1.0 swing in PH is actually alot, it's a pain but try to keep it within a couple .0's. Just my opinion, good luck.

The high ppms people say for flower are bs!! Don't go above 1300 and only very late in flower go above 1000. The bs people say on here about 2000 and 3000 in areo is bs so if you do it you will and your plants will be burned like the idiots on here should be, at the stake.... Fu pot heads that lie and want the people here to fuck up their grows. You suck...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

it's always a rule with hydro; always inch up PPM, and same with pH. Large changes are never good. When you're on the high end, never bump the PPM more than 200 in one day. Just keep an eye on'em and check'em out after the next flood. Good luck!

honestly I keep my ppm's right around 1500-1700 during flower. no problems. I use botanicare products, sweet, karma, cal-mag, bloom and flower.

I agree sort of, the increase should be slow but I have done that and still get burn. Now I might have bounced my ph to much on a couple of occassions but the idiots on here some say start at 2000 and that is pure bs. And the sticky lovers or roseman ones, can't remember which, that say that their magic systems, ????, can take 3000ppm and that is just pure crap... I have read experts in the field, meaning not pot heads on a web site of pot heads, scientists that study hydroponics and they know the real science of plants and it is not 3000 ppm. Plants can't take it period. So go up to 5000ppm and why not 100000 I mean sticky and others can get a huge cola in three weeks to get a pound so why not right. Not a single strain will produce bud in three weeks. NoNSenSe............!!!!!

RobMar said:

honestly I keep my ppm's right around 1500-1700 during flower. no problems. I use botanicare products, sweet, karma, cal-mag, bloom and flower.

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Don't take it too personally man! I know, I know, it gets annoying, but unfortunately in any forum you have to sift through the crap to get to the good stuff.

This high PPM racket is the reason why some people insist on the so called "flush". When you blast your plants with 2000 to 3000 ppm of nutrient, you are way over fertilizing, thus you need to flush out the EXCESS nutrients in order to have a smokable product. That would be no different than raising farm animals by over feeding them, making them fat and unhealthy, then starving them just before moving them to market. It just doesn't make sense.

A better (proper) approach would be to start seedlings/rooted clones at around 350ppm, and raise the ppm as the plant requires to an absolute maximum of 1400ppm @ 0.7 conv. (ie. once you see growth start to get vigorous, start slowly upping the nutrient strength).

My usual routine is as follows (ppm @ 0.7 conv):

Seedlings/rooted clones (Veg week 1) = ~350ppm (1:1:1 NPK)
Vegetative growth (Veg week 2) = ~600ppm (2:1:1 NPK)
Vigorous Veg growth (Veg week 3) = ~850ppm (2:1:1 NPK)
Transition (Flower weeks 1-2) = ~900ppm (1:1:1 NPK)
Peak flowering (Flower weeks 3-6) = ~1000 to 1200ppm (1:2:2 NPK)
Ripening (Flower weeks 7- = ~500-600ppm (1:2:2 NPK)

Well that sounds good. A little high I think in the start but good enough. I have never!!!!! ever!!!! seen any strain that is worth growing and I like NL that can finish in 3 weeks period. but I know the pot heads on here are magic so I just need to buy a magic wand at the magic hydro store. Just can't find a ride to planet zorkan where I here they are sold... Thanks. You have some sense. I do too but I hate to see the misinformation Peace...l;

highpsi said:

Don't take it too personally man! I know, I know, it gets annoying, but unfortunately in any forum you have to sift through the crap to get to the good stuff.

This high PPM racket is the reason why some people insist on the so called "flush". When you blast your plants with 2000 to 3000 ppm of nutrient, you are way over fertilizing, thus you need to flush out the EXCESS nutrients in order to have a smokable product. That would be no different than raising farm animals by over feeding them, making them fat and unhealthy, then starving them just before moving them to market. It just doesn't make sense.

A better (proper) approach would be to start seedlings/rooted clones at around 350ppm, and raise the ppm as the plant requires to an absolute maximum of 1400ppm @ 0.7 conv. (ie. once you see growth start to get vigorous, start slowly upping the nutrient strength).

My usual routine is as follows (ppm @ 0.7 conv):

Seedlings/rooted clones (Veg week 1) = ~350ppm (1:1:1 NPK)
Vegetative growth (Veg week 2) = ~600ppm (2:1:1 NPK)
Vigorous Veg growth (Veg week 3) = ~850ppm (2:1:1 NPK)
Transition (Flower weeks 1-2) = ~900ppm (1:1:1 NPK)
Peak flowering (Flower weeks 3-6) = ~1000 to 1200ppm (1:2:2 NPK)
Ripening (Flower weeks 7- = ~500-600ppm (1:2:2 NPK)

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I try to never go over 1300 in flowering/ soiless mediums. And 1600 in hydro application. If you are pushing your plants above that you need to watch the NITROGEN and IRON ppms. You can also use silica which can help with nitrogen load and burn at higher ppms.

I started my early veg...week 5 and on from seedling at a high ppm BUT ONLY BECAUSE FF LIES LIKE A BITCH. IF you use the recommended dose from early veg on you will burn your plants like I did.

Unfortunately for me I'm stuck using rediculous high ppm until harvest now because as a first timer by using such heavy nutes from the beginning these fuckers wont accept anything less than 2.6 EC or 1820 with a CF of 26. They do extremely well at this level now but at first I killed half of the orginal dozen.

My next grow will be nearly FLAWLESS...

Since we have some people now can someone answer this for me..

So in flower with buds you want to keep the humidity low but is that only so the buds don't mold? So if they are not big yet or no buds yet in flower is there really much point to running the machine to keep it low??

One last comment. I don't believe the harvest a pound every two three weeks bs on here. If you think you can do what those people are saying you are not going to be satisfied. Unless you spend maybe 50000 on your set ups and have unlimited space for it all...

My PPm goes right up around 2000 and I never have a problem. Certain strains do better under lower ppms. Its all strain specific. Plus its mostly my supplements that bring me up that high. I start out after flowering nutes around 1200

I'm curious about the age of Master....dude has issues. Take a look at your thumb.....it may not be as green as mine or others. Do what works for you. Stop bitching about misinformation. If you thought you were going to get absolute truth on the internet you need to log off indefinitely. FYI.....the harvest a pound every 2 weeks will work if you have the right setup. 1 room wont yield you a pound every 2 weeks but the right number of rooms will.

LOL.. I think everyone has missed an important factor.. THE GENETICS. Not all plants are the same. If that's obvious, it should also be obvious that some plants can handle high ppms and others can't. The reason you would inch up is to find that particular set of genetics' threshold. I kind of had the same problem with my first plant. I was a freak for ppms and pH, etc etc etc. I'd burn my plant, underfeed, etc etc etc. Then, I read from a grower who said he hadn't paid attention to those figures for years. His plants were perfect. Since then I haven't paid attention to ppms or pH at all. I haven't had any problems either.

The trick is to stop letting all of these meters and gadgets tell you what to do. Look at your plant. Get to know your plant. It will tell you its problems. You just have to recognize what those problems mean. If your meter fucks up and you can't "see" what the plant is telling you, you'll get fucked up plants. Don't sweat the pH. It's not a bad idea to let it get a little low or a little high. Plants pick up specific nutrients better at specific pH balances. The reason it's swinging is because the plant has actually changed the pH by soaking up nutrients. Just top it off with more water until the pH is steady, the plant is just drinkin water for the most part. Throw in some more nutrients at that point. The plant will tell you it needs nutrients when the growth has slowed. You'll know the growth has slowed because you've been looking at it every day and you'll notice.

doesn't dwc and areo set up require less ppms because the nutrients are more readily available to the plant i am in veg cycle on some romulan and my ppms have staid 450 and under with dwc and there blowing up also doesnt a plant use nutrients based on how much light there getting, higher light equals more ppms that can used? any body correct me if im wrong please

Depends on strain .........................nuff said

So ok enough people have had Northern Lights growing so what does that strain like????