how do you tell when clones have rooted???!
- Thread starter OhioGrown
- Start date
Indica415
Active Member
im wondering hte same thing. I planted my 2 clones in 3 gallon pots 5 days now. I dont see much improvement of growth and have only watered it 2-3 times.
You havent been watering it at all? Just misting the roots?
Should i be using nutrients at all or just plaint gardening soil is good for now?
You havent been watering it at all? Just misting the roots?
Should i be using nutrients at all or just plaint gardening soil is good for now?
le1337need
Well-Known Member
From what I've heard, it's harder to start a clone in soil. Only do people move clones to soil once they see roots. They will either stick the clone in some rockwool and wait to see roots come out of the rockwool, or they will leave the stem in a cup of water and wait to see the roots come out, then move to soil. Could be that your clone may have some small roots already started. I would continue what you are doing for another 7 days. Plant should have some good root development by day 14. Best of luck to you!
mogie
Well-Known Member
Contributed By: Leaf
This is a method that was passed on to me by an old grower friend. I have found this method to work with the most difficult and stubborn cuttings, including the strains that are labeled "difficult to clone".
Materials Needed
terrarium/old fishtank (I picked this one up at a garage sale for $0.25)
waterbed heater w/thermostat (same garage sale, $2.00)
fluorescent light
peat pellets
spray bottle
saran wrap (not shown)
Optional:
No-Damp
2x4's, plywood, light switch
Hang light to the desiered area, a 20 watt is reccomended for this project.
Now that my light is hung and ready, the next step is to lay out the waterbed heating pad. The pad is laid out so that the terrarium will be sitting directly ontop of it.
The thermostat is placed near by for easy access, and it is set at 80deg F for most cuttings. If rooting tropical varieties, I would suggest a setting nearer 90deg F.
The next step is preparation of the terrarium. I took mine down to the laundry sink and scrubbed it clean using detergent. I would not recommend using bleach, for bleach leaves a residue toxic to your plants. Once it is thoroughly cleaned, and dry, fill the bottom two inches with soil. I prefer to use Sunshine Mix #4. Once complete, place the terrarium ontop of the heating pad and beneath the light.
I mix the required amount of No-Damp into the water, before moistening the soil within the terrarium. Dampen the soil, do not leave it dry and do not make it wet. This will keep the peat pellet at the correct moisture.
Now is time to take your freshly cut clones and place them into peat pellets which have been expanded. The trick here is to bury the pellets most of the way into the soil, this will keep the pellets moist, warm, and will allow the roots to grow into the soil.
The pellet on the right is sitting ontop of the soil, the pellet on the left is correctly buried into the soil.
Once you have all the pellets in place, you are ready to place the temperature probe from the waterbed heating pad. I like to place the probe just above the soil, but not touching the soil, terrarium, or any plants and pellets. This will regulate the temperature within the terrarium to keep your new cuttings happy.
Mix up a spray bottle of cold water and the appropriate amount of No-Damp. Give the plants, the soil, and the inside walls of the terrarium a good misting. Mist everything without making the water bead and runoff.
Cover the terrarium with saran wrap to maintain humidity and temperature. Ensure to leave a one inch gap for fresh air.
Now you are all set to get started. Plug everything in, turn on your light and waterbed heating pad. The pad will warm your environment to optimum temperatures, plus you have just made a high humidity environment for your plants to root.
Now, just watch it go. There is really nothing more to do, the pellets will moisturize themselves from the soil and the temperature will remain the same. Check it daily, and give the inside of the terrarium a light misting, if needed. As long as there is still moisture on the terrarium glass, misting is not needed.
As long as your cloning methods are solid, in seven to ten days you will have roots running through the soil. The cutting pictured is shown at day ten, and some roots had to be broken to remove it from the soil.
This is a method that was passed on to me by an old grower friend. I have found this method to work with the most difficult and stubborn cuttings, including the strains that are labeled "difficult to clone".
Materials Needed
terrarium/old fishtank (I picked this one up at a garage sale for $0.25)
waterbed heater w/thermostat (same garage sale, $2.00)
fluorescent light
peat pellets
spray bottle
saran wrap (not shown)
Optional:
No-Damp
2x4's, plywood, light switch
Hang light to the desiered area, a 20 watt is reccomended for this project.
Now that my light is hung and ready, the next step is to lay out the waterbed heating pad. The pad is laid out so that the terrarium will be sitting directly ontop of it.
The thermostat is placed near by for easy access, and it is set at 80deg F for most cuttings. If rooting tropical varieties, I would suggest a setting nearer 90deg F.
The next step is preparation of the terrarium. I took mine down to the laundry sink and scrubbed it clean using detergent. I would not recommend using bleach, for bleach leaves a residue toxic to your plants. Once it is thoroughly cleaned, and dry, fill the bottom two inches with soil. I prefer to use Sunshine Mix #4. Once complete, place the terrarium ontop of the heating pad and beneath the light.
I mix the required amount of No-Damp into the water, before moistening the soil within the terrarium. Dampen the soil, do not leave it dry and do not make it wet. This will keep the peat pellet at the correct moisture.
Now is time to take your freshly cut clones and place them into peat pellets which have been expanded. The trick here is to bury the pellets most of the way into the soil, this will keep the pellets moist, warm, and will allow the roots to grow into the soil.
The pellet on the right is sitting ontop of the soil, the pellet on the left is correctly buried into the soil.
Once you have all the pellets in place, you are ready to place the temperature probe from the waterbed heating pad. I like to place the probe just above the soil, but not touching the soil, terrarium, or any plants and pellets. This will regulate the temperature within the terrarium to keep your new cuttings happy.
Mix up a spray bottle of cold water and the appropriate amount of No-Damp. Give the plants, the soil, and the inside walls of the terrarium a good misting. Mist everything without making the water bead and runoff.
Cover the terrarium with saran wrap to maintain humidity and temperature. Ensure to leave a one inch gap for fresh air.
Now you are all set to get started. Plug everything in, turn on your light and waterbed heating pad. The pad will warm your environment to optimum temperatures, plus you have just made a high humidity environment for your plants to root.
Now, just watch it go. There is really nothing more to do, the pellets will moisturize themselves from the soil and the temperature will remain the same. Check it daily, and give the inside of the terrarium a light misting, if needed. As long as there is still moisture on the terrarium glass, misting is not needed.
As long as your cloning methods are solid, in seven to ten days you will have roots running through the soil. The cutting pictured is shown at day ten, and some roots had to be broken to remove it from the soil.
WOW nice way to go mogie.. here's the way i've cloaned. I've had very good success with it.
Equip. I use
2 flos
1 warming pad
1 grow tray
1 dome for the tray
clear baggies
spray bottle
cloan gel
*** warming mat is used for this entire process ***
1. I fill the baggies with soil and make sure the soil gets a good drink
2. I dip my cloans in the gel
3. put my cloan in soil
4. put the baggie in my grow tray under the dome
5. flos on for 24 hours for 1 to 2 weeks
6. once i sdee roots i change to 18/6 with a fan blowing in one side dome (I lift one side of the dome for this
7. Once I start to see a large number of roots, i transplant to 3 gal bags and water with stright water
I use clear baggies becuase you can see the root growth very easisly. They are very cheap to use. When it comes time to transplant it's easy to cut away the baggie.
Equip. I use
2 flos
1 warming pad
1 grow tray
1 dome for the tray
clear baggies
spray bottle
cloan gel
*** warming mat is used for this entire process ***
1. I fill the baggies with soil and make sure the soil gets a good drink
2. I dip my cloans in the gel
3. put my cloan in soil
4. put the baggie in my grow tray under the dome
5. flos on for 24 hours for 1 to 2 weeks
6. once i sdee roots i change to 18/6 with a fan blowing in one side dome (I lift one side of the dome for this
7. Once I start to see a large number of roots, i transplant to 3 gal bags and water with stright water
I use clear baggies becuase you can see the root growth very easisly. They are very cheap to use. When it comes time to transplant it's easy to cut away the baggie.
bigballin007
New Member
Here is what I use
1 13w CFL
1 25 gallon cooler
small pots that a baggie can fit over yes a plastic baggie
dip"n"grow rooting hormone
soil any will do mixed with crushed lava rock 50/50
When you see new growth they have begun to root but leave them for three days then start removing the doom over a week period increasing the time the doom is off of your plant say 2 hours the first day 4 the second 6 the third 10 the fourth 14 the fith 18 the sixth and finally 24
Now as far as watering and misting only water the soil once it is dry. while the doom is on misting is not needed. around the third day of removing the doom lightly mist the leaves every other day until the doom is completely removed.
Soil can take as much as a month for roots to grow but two weeks is around the time frame you should start seeing roots.
I get great results from this method and have around an 95% success rate.
Good luck.
1 13w CFL
1 25 gallon cooler
small pots that a baggie can fit over yes a plastic baggie
dip"n"grow rooting hormone
soil any will do mixed with crushed lava rock 50/50
When you see new growth they have begun to root but leave them for three days then start removing the doom over a week period increasing the time the doom is off of your plant say 2 hours the first day 4 the second 6 the third 10 the fourth 14 the fith 18 the sixth and finally 24
Now as far as watering and misting only water the soil once it is dry. while the doom is on misting is not needed. around the third day of removing the doom lightly mist the leaves every other day until the doom is completely removed.
Soil can take as much as a month for roots to grow but two weeks is around the time frame you should start seeing roots.
I get great results from this method and have around an 95% success rate.
Good luck.
To root cuttings i simply dip the cuttings in rooting gell, then insert them in a damp rockwool plug, i then put them in a none heated propergator and leave them on top of a wardrobe in the spare room, they are situated about 18 inches of the light fitting on the ceiling, no fancy equipment required and it works everytime, i started doing them this way as an experiment and it gave me a great succsess rate. Although i do reccomend taking twice the amount of cuttings needed, for examaple i grow 10 plants at a time so i take between 20 and 25 cuttings at a time, this time i took 18 cuttings and 13 of them rooted, they are now growing nicely and im expecting a nice amount of AK47 in another 8 weeks.
if your leaves have started to yellow this means the plant is using it's own energies to grow roots. i have noticed, when the first set of leaves turn yellow, roots start to appear out the cube. sometimes though my leaves never yellow, so this is not a definate indication.
another way is to very gently lift the clone near the base. watch the soil around it. if the soil lifts outside the edge of the stem that is a good indication of root growth.
clones can be tricky. i've misted cuttings for 14 days only to find out the stem had rotted. yet the leaves were still growing.
they often "fall over" the first few days. they will stand back up. some don't so i gently pursuade back to an upright posture. after bending them straight a couple times over a few days they should stay.
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ÑÏЫiмiиλ[Å]â¢
New Member
Dayumm dude you went all out on this one...Can you do the same for a one inch clonee??Contributed By: Leaf
This is a method that was passed on to me by an old grower friend. I have found this method to work with the most difficult and stubborn cuttings, including the strains that are labeled "difficult to clone".
Materials Needed
terrarium/old fishtank (I picked this one up at a garage sale for $0.25)
waterbed heater w/thermostat (same garage sale, $2.00)
fluorescent light
peat pellets
spray bottle
saran wrap (not shown)
Optional:
No-Damp
2x4's, plywood, light switch
Hang light to the desiered area, a 20 watt is reccomended for this project.
Now that my light is hung and ready, the next step is to lay out the waterbed heating pad. The pad is laid out so that the terrarium will be sitting directly ontop of it.
The thermostat is placed near by for easy access, and it is set at 80deg F for most cuttings. If rooting tropical varieties, I would suggest a setting nearer 90deg F.
The next step is preparation of the terrarium. I took mine down to the laundry sink and scrubbed it clean using detergent. I would not recommend using bleach, for bleach leaves a residue toxic to your plants. Once it is thoroughly cleaned, and dry, fill the bottom two inches with soil. I prefer to use Sunshine Mix #4. Once complete, place the terrarium ontop of the heating pad and beneath the light.
I mix the required amount of No-Damp into the water, before moistening the soil within the terrarium. Dampen the soil, do not leave it dry and do not make it wet. This will keep the peat pellet at the correct moisture.
Now is time to take your freshly cut clones and place them into peat pellets which have been expanded. The trick here is to bury the pellets most of the way into the soil, this will keep the pellets moist, warm, and will allow the roots to grow into the soil.
The pellet on the right is sitting ontop of the soil, the pellet on the left is correctly buried into the soil.
Once you have all the pellets in place, you are ready to place the temperature probe from the waterbed heating pad. I like to place the probe just above the soil, but not touching the soil, terrarium, or any plants and pellets. This will regulate the temperature within the terrarium to keep your new cuttings happy.
Mix up a spray bottle of cold water and the appropriate amount of No-Damp. Give the plants, the soil, and the inside walls of the terrarium a good misting. Mist everything without making the water bead and runoff.
Cover the terrarium with saran wrap to maintain humidity and temperature. Ensure to leave a one inch gap for fresh air.
Now you are all set to get started. Plug everything in, turn on your light and waterbed heating pad. The pad will warm your environment to optimum temperatures, plus you have just made a high humidity environment for your plants to root.
Now, just watch it go. There is really nothing more to do, the pellets will moisturize themselves from the soil and the temperature will remain the same. Check it daily, and give the inside of the terrarium a light misting, if needed. As long as there is still moisture on the terrarium glass, misting is not needed.
As long as your cloning methods are solid, in seven to ten days you will have roots running through the soil. The cutting pictured is shown at day ten, and some roots had to be broken to remove it from the soil.
ÑÏЫiмiиλ[Å]â¢
New Member
Dayummm you really went all out on this one
...
...
The aquarium tank is over sized and unnecessary, the plants are too far from the light, they should be in individual pots, the heat is unnecessary, and the dome is supposed to be COMPLETELY covered, they are are plants ffs, they don't need oxygen. Finally bleach is completely biodegradable and will not affect plants or leave a resin on them.
