HOW DOES IT LOOK SO FAR?

Hello everyone newbie here first time dwc in a 4 by 4 grow tent with a 600w mh cool hood. What I have here is g13 pineapple express 2 and is 26 days from sprout. I am currently using gh trio nutes along with rain water phed. Just would like to know how does it look so far? To me they look a little droopy from Friday but im not sure that why I would gladly appreciate any expert advice thanks

How are you ph,ing , and how are you changing the rez. Do you condition the water?

Bareback said:

How are you ph,ing , and how are you changing the rez. Do you condition the water?

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yes i check the ph daily and I change the rez every 7 days i just changed it the other day i also just use plain collected rain water that I add the nutes to then ph I also have 2 grow stones in there. How do they look ?

They OK, good growth , a little dark . My question about ph a very phosphate based, citrus based, sulfuric acid based down. Or do you have to adjust up. Also I'm a construction company owner and I know run off from shingles/ galvanized tin contains zinc an algae growth inhibitor, the thing is I'm not sure if effects cannabis. I know peeps will say rain water is pure but how did we get acid rain and why is it a problem if it's pure.

i used general hydro ph up and down . Maybe its too much nitrigon because the rain water might contain some from the atmosphere not sure though

also here is a pic from it friday before I changed the rez and uped the nutes from 1/4 to 1/2

i just cleaned the rez now and decreased the nutes i was using and phed it hopefully that works

High Vegetta

First off, stop spraying your plants. They don't need water sprayed on unless you're fighting bugs or trying to get some Mg in them fast.

You don't need to change your nutes every week either. You are just wasting good nutes that a small plant like that hasn't had time to eat yet. The weekly change promoted by the nute makers is just so you have to buy more of their products. I go whole grows from clone to chop in DWC without ever changing nutes except maybe once after the stretch in flowering. I use reverse osmosis water only with AN's pH Perfect nutes and never worry about pH in DWC or potted plants.

Bareback is right about getting contaminated water off your roof and even tho a little zinc is needed for good plant growth too much will really mess things up. Not to mention contamination from the asphalt that the shingles are made of. A coloured tin roof would be OK as the powder coating on the tin doesn't leach any contaminants tho plain galvanized. silver, tin is coated in zinc and would be really bad.

Do you have a ppm pen? They should be at 500 - 600 ppm at that stage of growth. 300ppm is a good place to start clones when first starting them in hydro.

I think your plants are looking real good and those indica dominant plants with the big fat leaves tend to be droopier than their sativa dominant cousins so I wouldn't worry. Once they hit their stride expect to see lighter green centers in the growing tips as they grow so fast it takes a while before the chlorophyll can green up.

Good luck and good growing!

OldMedUser said:

High Vegetta

First off, stop spraying your plants. They don't need water sprayed on unless you're fighting bugs or trying to get some Mg in them fast.

You don't need to change your nutes every week either. You are just wasting good nutes that a small plant like that hasn't had time to eat yet. The weekly change promoted by the nute makers is just so you have to buy more of their products. I go whole grows from clone to chop in DWC without ever changing nutes except maybe once after the stretch in flowering. I use reverse osmosis water only with AN's pH Perfect nutes and never worry about pH in DWC or potted plants.

Bareback is right about getting contaminated water off your roof and even tho a little zinc is needed for good plant growth too much will really mess things up. Not to mention contamination from the asphalt that the shingles are made of. A coloured tin roof would be OK as the powder coating on the tin doesn't leach any contaminants tho plain galvanized. silver, tin is coated in zinc and would be really bad.

Do you have a ppm pen? They should be at 500 - 600 ppm at that stage of growth. 300ppm is a good place to start clones when first starting them in hydro.

I think your plants are looking real good and those indica dominant plants with the big fat leaves tend to be droopier than their sativa dominant cousins so I wouldn't worry. Once they hit their stride expect to see lighter green centers in the growing tips as they grow so fast it takes a while before the chlorophyll can green up.

Good luck and good growing!

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OldMedUser said:

High Vegetta

First off, stop spraying your plants. They don't need water sprayed on unless you're fighting bugs or trying to get some Mg in them fast.

You don't need to change your nutes every week either. You are just wasting good nutes that a small plant like that hasn't had time to eat yet. The weekly change promoted by the nute makers is just so you have to buy more of their products. I go whole grows from clone to chop in DWC without ever changing nutes except maybe once after the stretch in flowering. I use reverse osmosis water only with AN's pH Perfect nutes and never worry about pH in DWC or potted plants.

Bareback is right about getting contaminated water off your roof and even tho a little zinc is needed for good plant growth too much will really mess things up. Not to mention contamination from the asphalt that the shingles are made of. A coloured tin roof would be OK as the powder coating on the tin doesn't leach any contaminants tho plain galvanized. silver, tin is coated in zinc and would be really bad.

Do you have a ppm pen? They should be at 500 - 600 ppm at that stage of growth. 300ppm is a good place to start clones when first starting them in hydro.

I think your plants are looking real good and those indica dominant plants with the big fat leaves tend to be droopier than their sativa dominant cousins so I wouldn't worry. Once they hit their stride expect to see lighter green centers in the growing tips as they grow so fast it takes a while before the chlorophyll can green up.

Good luck and good growing!

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thanks for your advice. I will stop spraying them it makes sense what you said also you might be right about the water Just cant afford a r/o machine at the moment and the water is much lower ppm then my tap. The rain water ppm is at 16 ppm while my tap water is at 250 ppm. After I did the change today i checked the ppm and they were at 297...should that number be higher or that should be fine. So your saying since this plant is a hybrid its taking more of the indica side ?

I buy my RO water in town as the only water we have in the house comes from my dugout on the property so we use it for drinking etc as well. Don't have 15G to get town water piped in nor do I want to pay $60mth for the privilege of drinking the 400ppm crap they call potable water.

I would add a bit more nutes to get them up to 500 or so for better growth rates under that fairly large light. If you were using T5s or something for veg 300 would be fine but with all that light they can grow faster at a higher ppm.

Just by looking at the short, fat leaf structure of those plants it's obvious that they lean heavily to the indica side. Sativas have longer, thinner fingers on the leaves. Indicas in general can handle higher doses of nutes than sativas.

Indicas are generally a shorter bushier plant than a sativa and tend to grow fatter, denser colas as well.

When you cross the two you end up with different phenotypes when you grow out the seeds. About half will be a fairly uniform sized hybrid but a 1/4 will look more like a bushy indica and the other 1/4 will have a thinner, taller sativa look to them. Those are called F1 plants and are not very stable. After a few generations of breeding for the traits you want and back crossing you can end up with a more stable strain that will grow very identical plants from each seed tho there will be subtle differences that can be further bred to increase uniformity. Those kind of seeds are worth paying decent money for but most seed banks these days sell the F1s for almost the same price as stable strains which is a total rip-off as they should go dirt cheap. Anyone can toss a little pollen to create an F1. I just dusted some lower buds on my flowering plants to make some F2 seeds as I try to make an autoflowering version of my favourite home-made strain and updated my grow journal. I live too far north for regular plants to finish flowering before we get frost so want an auto-flowering version to seed the great outdoors next spring.