HVAC splits?
- Thread starter gwhunran
- Start date
gwhunran
Well-Known Member
Haven't bought it yet. Making sure everything is doable
gwhunran
Well-Known Member
I will have verify. Haven't bought it yet. I have a trusted relative that does commercial electric work and can add what I need for the unit I buy. I don't have a trusted relative for the refrigerant work on the split though.
gwhunran
Well-Known Member
I am not an electrician
, I knew it was 220 but thought because it was double the size of the 20a 110v, that it was 40a, thanks for the info that could have been bad if the unit I get needs more than 20a. I need the smallest double split I can get. According to my area measurements I only need 10k btu for both spaces.
Kdoggy
Well-Known Member
Im a 10 year jman refrigeration mechanic. I rarely work on ductless splits because they are very reliable i avg 20 installs a year of single and multi head units. A properly installed system (properly flared or brazed) no issues. Ive had to change the odd contactor or board but by no means any more issues than any split system. The guys who tell you nothing but problems probably dont know how to fix or install properly if they do breakdown mitsubishi and carrier units have very knowledgable free tech support.
Nizza
Well-Known Member
maybe it is a good idea to start withI am not an electrician
the climate you are trying to cool in, and area
what amount of cooling you will need for the amount of lighting?
I think a full plan of the build you are thinking of will help everyone brainstorm with you to help you invest and plan the best we can
Renfro
Well-Known Member
On the mini's the compressor is also variable speed. Normal split's the compressor is either on or off. So the mini's run more efficiently when it's cold.
xox
Well-Known Member
i agree if he hasnt bought the unit yet has he calculated how many btus of cooling he will need. mini splits arent that tough to install either i did one at my place for the first time last summer it was fairly easy. i hired an electrician to connect it to the panel for me. if he doesnt want to hire an hvac guy to do the install might as well get one with precharged lines probably be less hassle for him.
gwhunran
Well-Known Member
Already used 8 times. Just not year round. 600w hps with exhaust exiting out of space, 2nd space 400w MH with exhaust exiting space. All space is well insulated R15 and R30 with no insulation between space one and two. USDA Hardiness Zone of 7a,7b. Elevation aprox 1000feet.
gwhunran
Well-Known Member
each space 8ftx4ftx8ft. 3ft square tables flood and drain, scrog on flowering side.
sallygram
Well-Known Member
I love how these these threads have someone asking for help then a person will say how it is all crap and thay are all wrong. It reminds me of when anyone mentions any kind of light. I love the Mini spilt i could give a shit less about what a "real HVAC guy" says since I am not out to impress them. And if I grow better weed with it then who the hell cares. Oh BTW. i grow 6 pound plants with a flashlight and a birthday cake scented Yankee Candle evey 4 days, I hope that doesn't piss off the real weed growers.
p0opstlnksal0t
Well-Known Member
These are air cooled hoods? Are the rooms sealed? The intake and exhaust air form the hoods doesn't come from the rooms themselves right?
gwhunran
Well-Known Member
yes sealed. the air replacing the exhausted air enters through the leaks in the room from outside. I do have a portable ac/heater in the bloom side that works but it's too loud for my taste and doesn't do anything for the veg side when ambient temps get high. Also the whole building is completely shaded except for a few hours in the morning when the suns angle is low.
gwhunran
Well-Known Member
missed part of what you said. the air from the room enters the hoods and exits outside. The flower side air is pulled through a carbon filter before passing through the hood, the veg side, air is pushed through and exited with no carbon filter
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firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
They make low ambient kits down to 14F. Just have to mount 22" off grade by code. In MA anyways.
Heat pumps operate down to -22F but not at 100% efficiency.
They do make precharged linesets so no purging necessary. Flare connections
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Im closing my grow in a few months and getting heat pump system installed using ducted fan coil units in the upstairs where I have attic space and wall mount units in the basement.
Is that an option?
Is that an option?
p0opstlnksal0t
Well-Known Member
So then it's not sealed?
If you're pulling air from the grow room through the hoods and exhausting outside then the room is not sealed. Your AC air is going to get sucked through the hoods and exhausted correct?
kingromano
Well-Known Member
another time
i speak about these models, not real SPLITS
thats what he planned to use. the kind of AC you find in DIY stores
if you say me this kind of air conditionner is good you don't have 10 years experience
of course a mitsubishi split/multisplit is efficient. small units are usually more efficient than big ones (seer). i only work with toshiba and mitsubishi they are great
gwhunran
Well-Known Member
so negative room pressure
yeah but it't kind of a balancing act. I already use mobile ac in flower room and exhaust out, with ac I can exhaust less. It works now but my veg room has no ac. I also supply CO2 during the hottest times in veg and all the time in flower and I know that it gets sucked out too but it works. I want a double split to cool both sides and help heat in winter, not use too much more elec and run quieter. With what I'm already doing I am getting satisfactory harvest.