Hydroponics Question and Answer NewGrowth Style

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
Hey new growth, i tried starting a thread to get my hydro questions answered but no such luck yet. Since you're offering up advice on anything hydro i thought that i'd just ask you the questions directly.


I am using DWCS.

Here's what i have:

• Tap Water, ph adjusted to 5.8 from 6.8

Powder Nutrients

• Potassium Nitrate (KNO3, 250g)
• Potassium Sulphate (K2SO4, 250g)
• Mono Potassium Phosphate (KH2PO4, 250g)
• Magnesium Sulphate (MgSO4, 250g)
• Plantex CSM+B (1.5% Magnesium (MG), 1.5% Magnesium (cheleted),0.10% Copper (Cu),7.0% Iron (Fe - cheleted), 2.0% Maganese (Mn - Cheleted), 0.06% Molybedenum (MO), 0.40% Zinc (Zn - cheleted), +B is an extra addition of Boron. Don't know how much.

The reason that i have these nutrients is because i also grow aquatic plants in my aquarium. It works great for them, they grow fast and lush. Also in the aquarium world potassium is the key to limiting algae growth. The fine details are a little fuzzy but it works by algae not using it and the plants using it very efficiently, thus the plants out compete the algae for nutrients. I follow PPS PRO a tried and true formula and dosing regimen with the nutrients.

So that brings me to my question, I got to thinking one day before i set up my hydro while researching nutrients and thought why not just use the nutrients i have for the aquarium? I mean they dissolve very readily in water, I probably have enough powder nutrients to fertilize a small pond, and they're made to limit algae growth, major perks right?

So, this is where i'm at, i don't know where to go from here. How much of each should i use? Are there any of the nutrients that i don't have to or need to use? How would you use these nutrients? I read somewhere that having more potassium in your nutrients will produce more males from seed than females, is that true? that Any help will be greatly appreciated

As a side note: I also have the water quality report for my area and would like to adjust the nutrient solution to work with the contents of the tap water but have no idea what to look for on it, like what the hell are chloramines... SUPER CHLORINE. Eventually after a few grows i am hoping to have the nutrients tailored to each strain i have trough testing but right now i'm mainly looking for a general hydroponic nutrient formula for veg and flower.
Sounds like a cool experiment. I'm not sure how you would mix those nutes for marijuana. It seems there would be a lack of Ammoniacal Nitrogen in you mix however.

Here is what is in Ionic grow:
Calcium Nitrate
Potassium Nitrate
Phosphoric Acid
Nitric Acid
Potassium Sulfate and
Ammonium Nitrate

Maybe check the ingredients and ratios for General Hydroponic's dry nutrient mixes and see if you could come up with your own from what you've got. Basically you are formulating your own simple nutrient formula, I have never done this so keep me updated!
 

smoote1987

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a cool experiment. I'm not sure how you would mix those nutes for marijuana. It seems there would be a lack of Ammoniacal Nitrogen in you mix however.

Here is what is in Ionic grow:
Calcium Nitrate
Potassium Nitrate
Phosphoric Acid
Nitric Acid
Potassium Sulfate and
Ammonium Nitrate

Maybe check the ingredients and ratios for General Hydroponic's dry nutrient mixes and see if you could come up with your own from what you've got. Basically you are formulating your own simple nutrient formula, I have never done this so keep me updated!
Thanks for replying so quick. Thanks for leading me in the right direction as well.

Ok so i went and looked around the generalhydroponics website and various other hydro sites. I found that Maxi Grow/Bloom are their most common dry hydroponic nutrients. I saw from the image of the packaging that the ratios for Maxi Grow and Bloom are 10-5-14 and 5-15-14 respectively. The image also showed the package weight, 1kg (2.2 lbs). So therefore for Maxi Grow there is 100g (0.22) lbs nitrogen, 50g (0.11 lbs) phosphorus, and 140g (0.308 lbs) potassium. Maxi Bloom then would contain 50g (0.11 lbs) nitrogen, 150g (0.33 lbs) phosphorus, and 140g (0.308 lbs) potassium. Right? Because aren't the N-P-K ratios the percents of that nutrient contained in the fertilizer? :confused: Huh, Thats well under 1kg of nutrients wonder what the rest of the 1 kg is?

The only thing that i can't find is their exact ingredients. After i know that i should be able to mix my solutions and follow the fertilizer schedule from the generalhydroponics website. So if you know where i could find that info or know of anyone who may be using these nutrients and could give me the rest of the information from the package that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for you help.

Thats funny that you mentioned the Ammoniacal Nitrogen as it was specifically left out of the PPS Pro Aquarium fertilizers because it is provided by the fauna (fish and etc.) in the aquarium. Also from the water quality report for my area i saw that it contains 3.5 ppm Nitrate already. Could this be enough to supplement the Ammonium Nitrate? I doubt it though.
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
Thanks for replying so quick. Thanks for leading me in the right direction as well.

Ok so i went and looked around the generalhydroponics website and various other hydro sites. I found that Maxi Grow/Bloom are their most common dry hydroponic nutrients. I saw from the image of the packaging that the ratios for Maxi Grow and Bloom are 10-5-14 and 5-15-14 respectively. The image also showed the package weight, 1kg (2.2 lbs). So therefore for Maxi Grow there is 100g (0.22) lbs nitrogen, 50g (0.11 lbs) phosphorus, and 140g (0.308 lbs) potassium. Maxi Bloom then would contain 50g (0.11 lbs) nitrogen, 150g (0.33 lbs) phosphorus, and 140g (0.308 lbs) potassium. Right? Because aren't the N-P-K ratios the percents of that nutrient contained in the fertilizer? :confused: Huh, Thats well under 1kg of nutrients wonder what the rest of the 1 kg is?

The only thing that i can't find is their exact ingredients. After i know that i should be able to mix my solutions and follow the fertilizer schedule from the generalhydroponics website. So if you know where i could find that info or know of anyone who may be using these nutrients and could give me the rest of the information from the package that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for you help.

Thats funny that you mentioned the Ammoniacal Nitrogen as it was specifically left out of the PPS Pro Aquarium fertilizers because it is provided by the fauna (fish and etc.) in the aquarium. Also from the water quality report for my area i saw that it contains 3.5 ppm Nitrate already. Could this be enough to supplement the Ammonium Nitrate? I doubt it though.

Ammonium nitrate is one of the most available sources of nitrogen for plant uptake. That is why it is used in much smaller quantities on chemical fertilizer regiments (think dog pee on a lawn). I doubt the available nitrogen in your tap water will be enough.

Your ratios are correct however they only list the available percentages on most bottles. The other Kg is unavailable "byproduct". The chemical runoff from farms is polluting groundwater.

You may be able to find more exact formulations by request. I'm kinda baffled on this one large commercial vegetable growers mix their own fertilizers often. Small growers and hobby growers usually just buy them.
 

smoote1987

Well-Known Member
Ammonium nitrate is one of the most available sources of nitrogen for plant uptake. That is why it is used in much smaller quantities on chemical fertilizer regiments (think dog pee on a lawn). I doubt the available nitrogen in your tap water will be enough.

Your ratios are correct however they only list the available percentages on most bottles. The other Kg is unavailable "byproduct". The chemical runoff from farms is polluting groundwater.
I did not know that about Ammonium Nitrate or about the byproducts. I guess i'll have to look into that more to see what the actual "byproducts" are, i love learning things like that. I figured it wouldn't be enough in the water either, thanks for confirming.

You may be able to find more exact formulations by request. I'm kinda baffled on this one large commercial vegetable growers mix their own fertilizers often. Small growers and hobby growers usually just buy them.
I think i'll send a request to GH, and maybe a few other companies that have dry hydro ferts. Maybe give a few different ratios a try. Haha yea i know. if it starts to get as confusing as it was for the aquarium i think i may just give in and buy some traditional hydroponic nutrients. I just thought it would be nice to use what i already have and the possibilities for customization are extremely tempting. Thanks again you've been very helpful. If you think of anything else... just keep 'em coming.
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
I did not know that about Ammonium Nitrate or about the byproducts. I guess i'll have to look into that more to see what the actual "byproducts" are, i love learning things like that. I figured it wouldn't be enough in the water either, thanks for confirming.



I think i'll send a request to GH, and maybe a few other companies that have dry hydro ferts. Maybe give a few different ratios a try. Haha yea i know. if it starts to get as confusing as it was for the aquarium i think i may just give in and buy some traditional hydroponic nutrients. I just thought it would be nice to use what i already have and the possibilities for customization are extremely tempting. Thanks again you've been very helpful. If you think of anything else... just keep 'em coming.
Good luck man you need a chemistry degree for some of this stuff :lol: I just know the basics from College chemistry courses which I hated :spew:.

Let me know what you come up with though.
 

motif

Well-Known Member
do the homemade co2 (yeast/sugar in water shaken up) work well? what doses would you use for a 12 fl oz bottle?

is this too risky of getting mold to try?
 

smoote1987

Well-Known Member
do the homemade co2 (yeast/sugar in water shaken up) work well? what doses would you use for a 12 fl oz bottle?

is this too risky of getting mold to try?
NewGrowth i hope you don't mind if i try to give motif some info on the yeast co2 method, i have a lot of experience using them to supplement co2 for my aquariums and have a very long-lasting and very productive recipe. However i cannot comment on whether or not it will be enough to maintain the optimum levels of co2 (which i think is 1200- 1500 ppm co2 but don't quote me on that) as i have never tried it or have the equipment to measure it. But if i were ever going to try to supplement co2 with a yeast co2 reactor this is the recipe i would use.

Ok motif, the formula that i use was developed to be long lasting and produce alot of co2 by Tarah Nyberg. If you search "Nyberg, yeast, co2" in google you will find quite a few hits. The first of which is a powerpoint presentation explaining about yeast and how the process works and etc. Its a short read and very informative.

Here is her recipe:

Improvise at will, but here is a good start:
•2 tblsp yeast
•Use 1 cup sugar per 2L luke warm H20 (tank water is great or dechlorinated tap -- chlorine, but not ammonia, kill yeast. ) (they like ammonia)
•Add 1-2 tsp of a protein drink mix
(optional)
•Add 1 tsp of ammonium sulfate, otherwise use 1 T mollasses. (or both)
•1 tsp baking soda is also nice to keep the pH from crashing (they like it >pH3-4)
•Leave yeast from previous mix in the bottom.


I used everything that was in that recipe and it worked great, i made a few adjustments and it worked even better for me. Originally i only used yeast, sugar and water but with the addition of the ammonium sulfate (syrup) and protein mix the longevity of the recipe and quantity of co2 doubled. With just the basic formula the co2 production would last about 2 weeks, and had a very bell curve production rate meaning slow to start, peak at the middle, slowly falls to nothing. This was not good for aquarium use as it is important to maintain consistent water parameters or you can stress out and harm your fish. The Nyberg recipe on the other hand starts out fast in production and then plateaus as the cultures of yeast are being kept very healthy, then it tapers off slowly and quickly ends. This was much better as the amount and production of co2 was more consistent.

I tried adjusting the recipe every so often and found that 2 cups of sugar for 2L of water lasted about 3-4 weeks. Another thing to take account for is preparing the yeast before you add it to the mixture.

This is a very much over looked practice but pays off greatly when done properly. I used regular bakers yeast that you find at the grocery store in the baking aisle. I happened to come across two kinds from red star i think one was regular yeast, and the other was highly active. I chose the highly active of course and it was the better choice. The yeast is dry when you buy it so it needs to be rehydrated to start the process of making co2. This being said most just pour the yeast into the mixture shake it up and let it go. When i did this i waited a full 12 hours before i saw my first bubble of co2 in the bottle. This was because by adding them straight to the mixture you end killing off a large portion of the yeast.

What i do to ensure that more of the yeast bacteria survive the journey into the sugar mixture is add the 2 tblsp of yeast to a small glass of luke warm water with sugar. I then oxygenate the water through aeration by whisking it with a fork. This essentially wakes up the yeast bacteria and rehydrates them. I do this for about 5-10 mins stirring off and on making sure i'm creating bubbles as that ensures i am causing enough turbulence to cause a gas exchange to occur. I then add the yeast mixture to the sugar mixture and give it a little shake. When i did this i usually saw the first bubbles of co2 in 30 mins to an hour.

Some other things that i did to improve the whole process:

•attribute for the yeast mixture when creating the sugar mixture. I over flowed the bottle once and learned my lesson.

•A good funnel is a god-send.

•Adding a second bottle to function as a bubble counter to i could have at least some gauge of what was being produced was helpful. Basically it was yeast bottle outlet to bubble counter bottle, bubble counter has its own outlet. The outlet from the yeast bottle is inserted into the bubble counter bottle so that it is near the bottom of the bottle and then the outlet from the bubble counter was inserted just barely into the cap of the bottle. The bubble counter bottle is then filled with water. The co2 then bubbles up through the water and out of the shorter outlet hose. This also functions as a check valve for the yeast bottle as it sometimes can leak out a bubbly goo.

•Ummm the vitamin water bottles in 12 fl oz and 32 fl oz worked well as the bubble counter bottle and yeast bottle respectively. 32 fl oz is one liter so just cut the recipe in half.

•When making the holes in the caps of the bottles to insert the airline hose i used an awe, a screwdriver that come to a sharp point. It goes through the plastic caps easily when twisted and forced through with pressure and doesn't crack them. This allows you to not have to use a power drill or some other means. Also make sure the hole that you make in the cap is smaller in diameter than the airline hose you use so when you thread the hose through it forms a pressure seal and eliminates the need for bulkhead fittings or sealants.

•When threading the hose through the small holes in the caps it helps to cut the air line hose to have a point. You can then shove quite a bit of the point through the small hole and use pliers to pull it the rest of the way through.

•Keep a spare cap that fits on your yeast bottle because you can't very well shake up the mixture with the air line outlet cap when you make the following batches. It saves you from getting a sticky hand when you realize thats the only way you're going to be able to cap the bottle to shake it.

• keep your yeast cold it will last longer

• Last but not least you'll eventually realize that its a bitch to have to change and mix all that crap up and replace it every three weeks and will spring for a nice co2 tank and regulator with a solenoid valve that hooks up to a co2 meter. Thats what i ended up doing at least well actually i still went on the cheaper side and started using a 20 oz paintball tank ($16 on ebay) and a paintball regulator, and needle valve combo ($34.99 from thatfishplace.com). A solenoid valve and meter would be really nice though:D. Let me know if you have any questions, i hope i didn't step on your toes here NewGrowth.
 

smoote1987

Well-Known Member
Thanks man well done :clap:
Haha ok good, only slightly worried. Didn't want to offend you answering a question on your advice thread. Yea alot of my knowledge for growing is from my aquarium. It was funny all my friends were trying to talk me into growing hydroponically in my aquarium i just laughed because little did they know what i already had growing hydroponically in the closet behind the aquarium :mrgreen:
 

smoote1987

Well-Known Member
Hey Newgrowth,

So i've been scrounging around the internet still trying to find a dry fertilizer recipe as i wait for the replies to my emails and i finally came across a few valuable websites. The first two are examples of dry fertilizer recipes, and the third is a link to a research website that has several articles about hydroponic research experiments involving wheat. I read the whole site in one sitting. It was very informative and i thought you may be interested in taking a look as well.

Oh if you could please take a look at the two nutrient recipes and give me some feed back of which one you would use, is anything missing, and what do you think about the article "ph monitoring and control" from the third website? I thought it was interesting that they maintained a 4 ph nutrient solution and the reasons why were well explained and documented.

1. http://www.hydroponics-at-home.com/plant-nutrients.html

2. http://members.tripod.com/~busiweb/hydro/juice.htm

3. http://www.usu.edu/cpl/research_hydroponics3.htm

Thanks again for your help.

Ha, and yea something else that i was thinking about the other day was... Do you think it makes a difference whether i use potassium nitrate, sodium nitrate, calcium nitrate, or etc. to act as the source of nitrogen in the hydroponic nutrient solution? Meaning other than the obvious difference between the nutrients mentioned above and what they're bonded with (sodium, potassium, calcium) do you think that their would be a drastic difference in results if the proper percentage of either of the minerals was used to supplement for nitrogen? The reason why i have been thinking this is because i have realized that there are many different mineral compounds that contain the nutrients of N-P-K that could be used for plant growth and it would be nice to know if there were certain minerals that are better than others to supplement for the N-P-K. What do you think or do you have any knowledge of why certain minerals are more commonly used than others? Don't worry if you cannot answer this last question i am more interested in what you think of the three links provided and i realize how complicated and abstract of a question it is ;-). Thanks again!
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
Hey Newgrowth,

So i've been scrounging around the internet still trying to find a dry fertilizer recipe as i wait for the replies to my emails and i finally came across a few valuable websites. The first two are examples of dry fertilizer recipes, and the third is a link to a research website that has several articles about hydroponic research experiments involving wheat. I read the whole site in one sitting. It was very informative and i thought you may be interested in taking a look as well.

Oh if you could please take a look at the two nutrient recipes and give me some feed back of which one you would use, is anything missing, and what do you think about the article "ph monitoring and control" from the third website? I thought it was interesting that they maintained a 4 ph nutrient solution and the reasons why were well explained and documented.

1. http://www.hydroponics-at-home.com/plant-nutrients.html

2. http://members.tripod.com/~busiweb/hydro/juice.htm

3. http://www.usu.edu/cpl/research_hydroponics3.htm

Thanks again for your help.

Ha, and yea something else that i was thinking about the other day was... Do you think it makes a difference whether i use potassium nitrate, sodium nitrate, calcium nitrate, or etc. to act as the source of nitrogen in the hydroponic nutrient solution? Meaning other than the obvious difference between the nutrients mentioned above and what they're bonded with (sodium, potassium, calcium) do you think that their would be a drastic difference in results if the proper percentage of either of the minerals was used to supplement for nitrogen? The reason why i have been thinking this is because i have realized that there are many different mineral compounds that contain the nutrients of N-P-K that could be used for plant growth and it would be nice to know if there were certain minerals that are better than others to supplement for the N-P-K. What do you think or do you have any knowledge of why certain minerals are more commonly used than others? Don't worry if you cannot answer this last question i am more interested in what you think of the three links provided and i realize how complicated and abstract of a question it is ;-). Thanks again!
Ok I'll check them all out later I only have a few minutes now looks interesting though.
 

HOHO

New Member
hey ng i was wondering if you could tell me about using the 35% h2o2..i have been using the 3% for a while but decided to purchase the good stuff but the directions are not that good.. i'm using about 20 gallon res' and i'm a little unsure how to mix could u help?
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
hey ng i was wondering if you could tell me about using the 35% h2o2..i have been using the 3% for a while but decided to purchase the good stuff but the directions are not that good.. i'm using about 20 gallon res' and i'm a little unsure how to mix could u help?
The ratio for 35% IS 1.7ml/L. I just add it every two weeks when I change my res.

PS- Not blowing you off 1987 just been busy lately and I want to look through your links well. :peace:
 

smoote1987

Well-Known Member
PS- Not blowing you off 1987 just been busy lately and I want to look through your links well. :peace:
No problem, same here.

I decided to try out the first links recipe as its ratios seemed to be close to a veg forumla, and i will be trying this out on my freshly transplanted clone. Plus my plant was really hurting for nutes and i couldn't wait any longer for a reply from the hydro companies. I guess from here i'm just going to watch my plants and see if there become any deficiencies and then adjust the recipe accordingly. Should be a nice learning experience. I guess after i get the process down i could very easily repeat it if any of the variables change such as new source of water, new strain and etc.

i should probably start a journal, shouldn't i? Better start buttering up the girl so i can use that digital camera she's got. I'll just ask her when were high :bigjoint:.
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
No problem, same here.

I decided to try out the first links recipe as its ratios seemed to be close to a veg forumla, and i will be trying this out on my freshly transplanted clone. Plus my plant was really hurting for nutes and i couldn't wait any longer for a reply from the hydro companies. I guess from here i'm just going to watch my plants and see if there become any deficiencies and then adjust the recipe accordingly. Should be a nice learning experience. I guess after i get the process down i could very easily repeat it if any of the variables change such as new source of water, new strain and etc.

i should probably start a journal, shouldn't i? Better start buttering up the girl so i can use that digital camera she's got. I'll just ask her when were high :bigjoint:.
Yeah start a journal and send me a link. I think experience is really the best teacher when it comes to growing. I would like to see what you come up with. Cool stuff man thanks or dropping by bongsmilie

I would love to see some tested "home made" nutrient recipes for cannabis. I suppose you could always go to BC and try to find a VERY large grow-op. There are plenty and those guys mix their own often.
 

smoote1987

Well-Known Member
Yeah start a journal and send me a link. I think experience is really the best teacher when it comes to growing. I would like to see what you come up with. Cool stuff man thanks or dropping by bongsmilie

I would love to see some tested "home made" nutrient recipes for cannabis. I suppose you could always go to BC and try to find a VERY large grow-op. There are plenty and those guys mix their own often.
Will do on the journal. Im planning it when i harvest this current batch in a month. By then the clone that i'm trying things out on will be moving into the flower room so it wont be a good subject for a journal anymore. The cuts i took a little while ago will be ready for my dwc buckets in the veg chamber though. Hopefully i will have learned some from this current clone and the second batch of clones will be a good candidate for a journal. That will also be a good test for the timing of my perpetual harvest schedule as well. Trying to keep it efficient you know.

I also just switched my grow from being horizontal scrog/lighting to vertical scrog/lighting and this will give me some time to practice and get my technique down. Well thanks again for your help i really appreciated. Keep it green :mrgreen:.

Oh whats "BC"?
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
Will do on the journal. Im planning it when i harvest this current batch in a month. By then the clone that i'm trying things out on will be moving into the flower room so it wont be a good subject for a journal anymore. The cuts i took a little while ago will be ready for my dwc buckets in the veg chamber though. Hopefully i will have learned some from this current clone and the second batch of clones will be a good candidate for a journal. That will also be a good test for the timing of my perpetual harvest schedule as well. Trying to keep it efficient you know.

I also just switched my grow from being horizontal scrog/lighting to vertical scrog/lighting and this will give me some time to practice and get my technique down. Well thanks again for your help i really appreciated. Keep it green :mrgreen:.

Oh whats "BC"?

British Columbia Canada, never heard of "BC" Bud?
 
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