If an Autoflower Plant doesnt Auto Do You Finish it with 12/12

I have an auto assassin thats a 2 month old bush with light preflowering should i just treat it like a normal photoperiod plant with 12/12 ?

I would have switched it to 12/12 three weeks ago. Every auto I ever grew showed sex within 3 week and started flowering shortly there after. What light schedule do you currently have it on? They say you can grow them on a 24/0 light schedule, but most people seem to have better luck at 20/4 or even 18/6. 18/6 worked well for me, but I might try 20/4 next time around.

Im not sure why you wouldnt just get a 10 dollar timer and switch to 12/12 after 2 months anyways. Why not flower with 12 hours of light if you can and save the electricity.

I understand the convenience of not having to do anything with lighting but is it that inconvenient to flip a switch once to 12/12? Im just askin'

I own several timers and No its not, i would have but i left town for about 2 weeks and had them checked on by a friend and just didnt bother switching it wanting to get a big plant with a long veg. The question is will it have to finish in 12/12 or can it go back to where i had it (on 20/4 to answer your question also) after flowering starts? --BTW its on 12/12 for 5 days now for the record.

What has someone done when there plant didnt auto ? Anyone have this happen to them ?

Thats a tough question to answer without knowing all the details about the plants ancestry. There is no way to know if any environmental factors may have affected the parents in some way to cause your plant to not flower. IMO, I would probably go to 12/12 for two reasons, 1: you know 12/12 will induce flowering. 2: it will save money on electric bill.

Even though Ruderalis has been around for a while, there still isnt enough research to conclude that they are stable for breeding. I would use caution with those auto flowers. Personally, I think they are just slightly better than a hermie..lol

I have read of a few strains of autos that need a starter boost of 12/12 to shock them into auto. I am going to assume that is because of improper breeding, maybe allowing some unwanted traits from an F-2 parent to sneak in.

you think its worth goin 18/6 or 20/4 once they start in 12/12 or possibly they could reveg ?

I always run a 24/0 for seedlings (7-14days in rockwools or rooted)
I then switch the to a 18/6 for 3 weeks in dirt (5.5 containers, basically a little over a quart container for 1-5 days, then to a 5 gallon contaiher for the remainder of the 3 wks)
I then switch to a 12/12 cycle for the flowering period. (5 gallon containers)
NOW, I will say this. A plant only uses approximately 16 hours of light regardless. So i would say that a 18/6 is sufficient. BUT on the other hand with a auto flower it could be experimented and maybe a 18/6 or a 16/8 could be used throughout. because the amount of yield is generally dictated the most by the amount of like intensity the plant recieves. so i would keep the light close as you can (without burning it) and As long as you feel comfortable (or after trial and error) works the best.
I definitely wouldnt use the 24/0 or 20/4 method, because basically you are fighting mother nature. Remember you are playing god and mimmicking seasons. Light deprevation at key times is your friends. Beside like they stated. Its cheaper$$ for the electricity.
Good Luck
let us know

So long time since this thread started but Im back and I ended up doing 12/12 and she finished off great. I think she carried more of the photo period genes then auto on this particular seed but 12/12 did fine and I got like 35 grams from her.

My AA is 44 days 8 1/2 inches w/ female preflowers. I just gave it more FF Grow Big If no buds start forming by day 50 I'm goin 12/12.

Mine turned out pretty sick from 12/12 I ended up harvesting about an ounce on that plant and even took clones that were also really sweet. Somehow I think we got wierd batches of this AA that def didn't auto. I took full blown clones that I vegged for like 2 months