is it beneficial to add mycorrhizae to my worm and bat tea?

Thai_Lights

Well-Known Member
Wow I just installed a 10k Solistek 600w MH in my bloom room yesterday. Had no idea it was a defense against PM; it was suggested by the Rev in last issue of Skunk because it has an enhanced spectrum supposedly better suited for organic soils than an hps or so I've read. The 10k has UV a and b which is supposed to help boost trichome production.
I was using an hps so we shall see how it does but if gmm is using it I'm a bit more confident I'll get good results.

There are reptile UV spectrum bulbs/tubes or whatever that may fit your t5 if you can find them. There are ways to brew up a fungal tea but I find it's not necessary if you add it directly to the soil in the hole at transplants. Fungus will take over your container very quickly it's the bacteria that needs to be maintained by giving teas. Fuck Heisenberg; this is the best tea recipe:
1-2 cups fresh EWC
1 tsp molasses
1 tsp Kelp meal
2 tblspn Big bloom
1 tblspn Neptunes Harvest
Bubble for 24+ hrs with 1-3 gal of clean water
I give this every 2 weeks or as needed from late veg into mid bloom phase
Great recipe. Do you dilute it or serve as is?
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
I usually brew up 2-3 gal at a time but never dilute it unless I need a little more at the end. It won't burn them even if used at full strength. And it's true I thought foam was an indication of activity but that's not the case. As long as you brew it for 24-48 hrs it's very populated with microbes
 

Thai_Lights

Well-Known Member
I usually brew up 2-3 gal at a time but never dilute it unless I need a little more at the end. It won't burn them even if used at full strength. And it's true I thought foam was an indication of activity but that's not the case. As long as you brew it for 24-48 hrs it's very populated with microbes
Do you supplement with other teas in between or just water?
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Just water most of the time; I collect rain when I can and supplement that with water from a dehumidifier. I only give maybe 2-3 tea applications during the life cycle of my plants but I'm perpetual; once it gets past week 6-7 it's water only until chop
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Wow I just installed a 10k Solistek 600w MH in my bloom room yesterday. Had no idea it was a defense against PM; it was suggested by the Rev in last issue of Skunk because it has an enhanced spectrum supposedly better suited for organic soils than an hps or so I've read. The 10k has UV a and b which is supposed to help boost trichome production.
I was using an hps so we shall see how it does but if gmm is using it I'm a bit more confident I'll get good results.
yea man, the 10k is a beefy light, VERY bright... just remember that UV is baaaad for ya, get some dark sunglasses/skin cover or simply kick it off when you go in there.
and you should run at least a 1/1 ratio of hps if you can, the 10k as a sole flowering bulb doesn't seem to work as well
the anti-mold aspects of it I discovered on accident, but the key is you gotta have not only an open reflector (the tempered glass shields the UV) but you gotta have your fans running through the light, so the setup would be a "pulling" setup, rather than a "pushing"
so what i do is, draw air in from outside (one 6" vortex) pushing that air through my aircooled hps bulb, into the 10k air cooled reflector, which is open.
so all the air passes through the UV light as it comes in.
same concept as an aquarium UV setup sorta.
works really well, i'm happy with it, but I wouldn't use it as a sole source of flowering light
the overlapping spectrums work amazing, the plants in between the two bulbs do the best
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Ahh so I should remove the glass; thought I might end up doing that. My exhaust fan is setup to pull and has a speed control but the inline intake fan is smaller and is not hooked to the hood it's just open on one side. I can set it up that way but there's a carbon filter on both intake and exhaust which helps kill all the smells. No question this light burns hotter than my hortilux hps. Had to turn up the speed to adjust for slightly higher temp. I'm going to see how it goes with the mh for now; I do have leds in there for side lighting as well. Thought I might switch it out every few weeks with an hps if it did not perform as well.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Ahh so I should remove the glass; thought I might end up doing that. My exhaust fan is setup to pull and has a speed control but the inline intake fan is smaller and is not hooked to the hood it's just open on one side. I can set it up that way but there's a carbon filter on both intake and exhaust which helps kill all the smells. No question this light burns hotter than my hortilux hps. Had to turn up the speed to adjust for slightly higher temp. I'm going to see how it goes with the mh for now; I do have leds in there for side lighting as well. Thought I might switch it out every few weeks with an hps if it did not perform as well.
I feel ya man, I've been using metal halides for yrs and they def put out a lil more heat.. especially in an open hood.
but yea, the glass is almost always shielding the UV
I have a small fan that I use to blow directly at the bulb, and then of course the aforementioned vortex
I also have my day cycle at night too, so it's usually cool out
 
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