is this n deficiency pics>>>>>>>

scottish lad

scottish lad

Well-Known Member
can any one tell me whats up with my ladys is this n def or somethin else ? am in week 5 of flowering period .
 
apla0

apla0

Well-Known Member
well i m not 100% sure about the first 3 photos because it is a bit gray,, but i wouldnt care so much.. on the last pic there is definately some N deff but it's natural since the plant is trying to give more power into the buds.. happened to me on the last grow into much worse way.
 
scottish lad

scottish lad

Well-Known Member
well on the 3 pics are kinda blue (dam cam) the leaves were brown and really yellow on the first 3 pics . sorry about the cam

cheers for reply
 
Kriegs

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
Big time N deficiency. And no, it's not natural at 5 weeks of flower. That girl needs some N quick. Allowing your foliage to fade prematurely is a major yield / bud hardness reducer. You want to stop that.

You need a formula that provides it's N in the "nitrate" form - read your labels to make sure this is so. This is the fastest assimilated N you can buy. The balance should be ammoniacal N. Use something in a 3-1-2 ratio like DynaGro Foliage Pro (9-3-6), Foxfarms Grow Big is also nitrate-N and okay at 6-4-4, but it's fairly acid in solution (that's why I prefer Dyna Gro -- dynagro.com). DO NOT use anything that has urea N in it - this stuff is slow to convert and is a terrible choice for resolving deficiencies. It can burn your root tips even when there's not enough N (so, you end up with burnt plants that are also deficient -- arrrggghh!!). I'm not a Miracle Grow anti.. I use their stuff, but it's def the wrong choice for this situation (has urea, no nitrate..).

Contrary to popular belief, a 3-1-2 ratio has more than enough phosphorous and potassium to support flowering. Your premium right now is getting your N levels up. Start with a full dose of whatever you select -- that's enough of a deficiency that overdoing it is not a concern right now. Then, cut to 1/2 strength and feed with every watering from there. That yellowing should arrest itself in about 3-5 days. Select a couple of healthy leaves close to a yellowed leaf and monitor those leaves for continued yellowing. If it doesn't stop, stick to full dose until it does. If you really have to do the "high phos thing", go to a flat 7-7-7 after a week or two of corrective high-N feedings. Again, Dyna Gro's Liquid Grow product at 7-9-5 is a great flowering formula, and it keeps up that "nitrate N" thing that you've started.

Good luck.. don't worry. You'll check this and she'll be fine.
 
scottish lad

scottish lad

Well-Known Member
Kriegs said:
Big time N deficiency. And no, it's not natural at 5 weeks of flower. That girl needs some N quick. Allowing your foliage to fade prematurely is a major yield / bud hardness reducer. You want to stop that.

You need a formula that provides it's N in the "nitrate" form - read your labels to make sure this is so. This is the fastest assimilated N you can buy. The balance should be ammoniacal N. Use something in a 3-1-2 ratio like DynaGro Foliage Pro (9-3-6), Foxfarms Grow Big is also nitrate-N and okay at 6-4-4, but it's fairly acid in solution (that's why I prefer Dyna Gro -- dynagro.com). DO NOT use anything that has urea N in it - this stuff is slow to convert and is a terrible choice for resolving deficiencies. It can burn your root tips even when there's not enough N (so, you end up with burnt plants that are also deficient -- arrrggghh!!). I'm not a Miracle Grow anti.. I use their stuff, but it's def the wrong choice for this situation (has urea, no nitrate..).

Contrary to popular belief, a 3-1-2 ratio has more than enough phosphorous and potassium to support flowering. Your premium right now is getting your N levels up. Start with a full dose of whatever you select -- that's enough of a deficiency that overdoing it is not a concern right now. Then, cut to 1/2 strength and feed with every watering from there. That yellowing should arrest itself in about 3-5 days. Select a couple of healthy leaves close to a yellowed leaf and monitor those leaves for continued yellowing. If it doesn't stop, stick to full dose until it does. If you really have to do the "high phos thing", go to a flat 7-7-7 after a week or two of corrective high-N feedings. Again, Dyna Gro's Liquid Grow product at 7-9-5 is a great flowering formula, and it keeps up that "nitrate N" thing that you've started.

Good luck.. don't worry. You'll check this and she'll be fine.
Click to expand...

cheers m8 that helps a lot i was speaking to some one else that uses my nutes

i am using bio bizz soil and nutes the bio bloom(flowering nutes) 2.0 6.0 3.5 and the bio grow (veg+floweringnutes) is 8.0 2.0 6.0
he sai to put 2ml bloom and 3ml grow instead of just 5ml of bloom

would this do ok or should go out and get some nutes that you are talking of ?

thanks for taking time to write that post :bigjoint:
 
Kriegs

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
scottish lad said:
cheers m8 that helps a lot i was speaking to some one else that uses my nutes

i am using bio bizz soil and nutes the bio bloom(flowering nutes) 2.0 6.0 3.5 and the bio grow (veg+floweringnutes) is 8.0 2.0 6.0
he sai to put 2ml bloom and 3ml grow instead of just 5ml of bloom

would this do ok or should go out and get some nutes that you are talking of ?

thanks for taking time to write that post :bigjoint:
Click to expand...
I would make it 1ml bloom to 4ml grow, if it were mine. Thanks for the NPK info, too - that helps.
 
scottish lad

scottish lad

Well-Known Member
jack the beanstalk said:
Wait, before you use nutes, do you have any gnats at all, even one or two?

It looks just like this issue:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=70503

If you use nutes and it gets worse it's probably not a lockout at all. Pull it out and look at the roots. I have seen people repot over and over thinking they had root bind or bad water or....turns out, it's these tiny fuckers. Actually a root aphid. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phylloxera
Click to expand...

ha ha ha ha thats so funny you say that i actually work in the pest control industry (kill bugs all day long )and that was one o the things i checks as i know a lot o pest that would love the invirement in a grow room that could damage the plants :)
 
jack the beanstalk

jack the beanstalk

Active Member
The thing about the phylloxera is that you may not see any gnats at all. It really seems to be something that is on the rise, a LOT of people getting this right now.
 
scottish lad

scottish lad

Well-Known Member
do you know how it is transported to the soil ?

i will inspect mine the more with micoscope see if i can see any lava etc
 
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