It's A Fuct World
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
- Start date
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
If 1ml of 50% is recommended thats .5ml of h2o2. So take .5 and divide it by any percentage to get the ml.
So if its 18% it would be .5 divided by .18 to get 2.7ml
25% is .5 divided by .25 = 2ml
30% is .5 divided by .30 = 1.7ml
35% is .5 divided by .35 = 1.4ml
50% is .5 divided by .5 = 1ml
90% is .5 divided by .9 =.55ml
So if its 18% it would be .5 divided by .18 to get 2.7ml
25% is .5 divided by .25 = 2ml
30% is .5 divided by .30 = 1.7ml
35% is .5 divided by .35 = 1.4ml
50% is .5 divided by .5 = 1ml
90% is .5 divided by .9 =.55ml
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Apropos of nothing at all- Shel Silverstein:
[video=youtube;GVfE_-ZJAxc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVfE_-ZJAxc[/video]
For 35%, it's 50/35= 1.428 (1.4) ml/L.
Remember, pharmacy grade 3-10% is not useful as you have to use far too much (simply uneconomical) and low strength H2O2 contains stannate stabilisers, which are toxic to plants.
[video=youtube;GVfE_-ZJAxc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVfE_-ZJAxc[/video]
Foliar spraying really should only be done in lights on, with plenty of time for leaves to dry before lights-off. Wet leaves in cool, dark conditions invites mould- powdery mildew, botyritis etc.
Try not to panic when applying miticides etc. Use the recommended dosage rate. Once you see any symptom of damage to the plants, it's usually permanent. Some 'organic' and 'natural' insecticides use oils to suffocate bugs, which breathe through pores in their bodies. Problem is, leaves work the same way. Plug leaf stomata & you will kill the leaf.
well...
For 30%, it's 50/30= 1.666 (1.7) ml/L.
For 35%, it's 50/35= 1.428 (1.4) ml/L.
Yep, that's how she goes.
Remember, pharmacy grade 3-10% is not useful as you have to use far too much (simply uneconomical) and low strength H2O2 contains stannate stabilisers, which are toxic to plants.
A few questions for the great Al,
My ppm stays the same throught a week and my res just loses water
When you top up with plain tapwater, does it effect the ppm levels at all? and if so, do you add back nutes to keep the desired ppm until your 2 week tank flush?
Ive heard too addback plain water with no nutes, but wouldnt this dilute your solution if its already at the correct ppm?
When my ph drops or raises by a point (5.9,5.7) should I adjust immedietly back to the suggested 5.8?
Ive left the lid off my res and been adding h202 at the reccomended doses, but I still seam to get white bubble slime floating and sticking to pumps by the end of week 1.
The 200ppm tap I am running contains high traces of calcium, and adding 1/4 tspn epsom seems to help with the purpleing of stems. Is it safe to add epsom at that rate before I add nutes to the desired strength? And do I sutract the starting ppm after I add epsom or before?
My ppm stays the same throught a week and my res just loses water
When you top up with plain tapwater, does it effect the ppm levels at all? and if so, do you add back nutes to keep the desired ppm until your 2 week tank flush?
Ive heard too addback plain water with no nutes, but wouldnt this dilute your solution if its already at the correct ppm?
When my ph drops or raises by a point (5.9,5.7) should I adjust immedietly back to the suggested 5.8?
Ive left the lid off my res and been adding h202 at the reccomended doses, but I still seam to get white bubble slime floating and sticking to pumps by the end of week 1.
The 200ppm tap I am running contains high traces of calcium, and adding 1/4 tspn epsom seems to help with the purpleing of stems. Is it safe to add epsom at that rate before I add nutes to the desired strength? And do I sutract the starting ppm after I add epsom or before?
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
*blush* OK
Sounds like your res is the right size for the number of plants it's supplying.
If your nute concentration is staying constant as the water level drops, there's no real need to top up between 2 week renewal intervals.
It would, and that's why you don't really need to top up. Just let the level fall until it's time to mix up a new tank of sauce. As long as there's enough sauce in the res to fill the tray to the overfill, there's no need to top up.
It's most likely that the pH will rise rather than drop. pH should stay steady unless you top up with plain tapwater (usually 7.5-8 due to chlorination) or if there's a high pathogen (pythium, fusarium) load in the system. If you're dosing your tanks with H2O2 every 3-4 days, you shouldn't have any pathogen problems. However, if your pH does jump up by more than .2, do adjust it down to 5.8. If you're not topping up & don't have pathogen issues, your pH shouldn't wander much.
There's apparently a high enough pathogen load in your system that the usual periodic dosage isn't enough to keep your pathogens in check. The H2O2 you're getting may not be the strength that it says on the bottle (long term storage of H2O2 can reduce the concentration). Do a once-off shock treatment of 50% grade H2O2 at 10ml/L & then return to 1ml/L 3-4 days later. See if that doesn't sort it out.
Subtract the TDS of the tapwater and that added by the Epsom salts from the final figure post adding your nutes. TDS readings unfortunately only give you an indication of the total conductivity of the solution; doesn't tell you specifically how much N, P & K is in the solution. Mg & Ca won't contribute to nute burn. So, if you have 200ppm indicated in plan tapwater and the MgSO4 adds another 100ppm, subtract 300ppm from the figure you see from the solution with nutes mixed in.
Thanks a a ton Al, I will definetly be using all this info and applying it to my grow immedietly.
I dont doubt that my grow shop is selling outdated h202. Before settling with F&D and learning the basics for plant survival, he sold me about everything in the shop that I didnt need. All this is of course high on the shelf now.
I try not to ask question that you have repeatedly answered as I have tried to read every post you have ever writtin. There is no doubt in my mind that this is the most informative thread about growing cannabis on the net.
With information such as this at everyones fingertips, all other threads concerning marijuana botany should be deleted.
Thanks a ton AL!
I dont doubt that my grow shop is selling outdated h202. Before settling with F&D and learning the basics for plant survival, he sold me about everything in the shop that I didnt need. All this is of course high on the shelf now.
I try not to ask question that you have repeatedly answered as I have tried to read every post you have ever writtin. There is no doubt in my mind that this is the most informative thread about growing cannabis on the net.
With information such as this at everyones fingertips, all other threads concerning marijuana botany should be deleted.
Thanks a ton AL!
Raphael Mechoulam
Well-Known Member
Thanks Al. Yeah, the ladies are looking better now, especially the new growth, and buds are forming nicely. Azamax directions say that in can be used in the rez and plants will safely take it up through the roots to be bug-free, but I don't know if it's compatible with h202 and I can't find the info anywhere. What do you think, Al? I know that azamax is a concentrated neem-oil derivative. On an unrelated topic, why do the ladies smell so strong immediately after lights off?
The New Jim Jones
Well-Known Member
christ this is too much for my stoned tired brain right now, ill check back later, even though im all soil, i like to know all the options, and how to correctly execute them
Trap Bunkin
Member
@ jim jones
If you come to the hydro side Jim you wont look back.
Other threads and advice on hydro offer very complex and unnecessary practices to what should be a very simple routine. If you have time, read through this entire thread and also his original "get a harvest every 2 weeks". At some point throughout both threads EVERY question on how to replicate this op has been explained. I have read each thread, twice. I have even read the "batch of clones in rockwool" several times, even though I do not use RW.
Good Luck!
If you come to the hydro side Jim you wont look back.
Other threads and advice on hydro offer very complex and unnecessary practices to what should be a very simple routine. If you have time, read through this entire thread and also his original "get a harvest every 2 weeks". At some point throughout both threads EVERY question on how to replicate this op has been explained. I have read each thread, twice. I have even read the "batch of clones in rockwool" several times, even though I do not use RW.
Good Luck!
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
BTW, doing a shock treatment at 10ml/L can get kinda exxy if you're dosing a full tank. You can save some dough by doing the shock with only partial tank of water.
Fill the res with water only as high as is necessary to flood the tray to the overflow, probably only 20-25% full in most cases. Say you're using 125L tanks; fill only to 25L & add 250ml 50% grade H2O2. Run the pump to fill the tray to overflow & let drain. Then you can either dump that shock treatment mix & mix a new batch of sauce with 1ml/L 50% H2O2 or you can just fill the res with water & add nutes as per usual. In the case of a 125L tank, you're saving a litre of H2O2 but still getting the high concentration needed to purge the system of pathogens.
Fill the res with water only as high as is necessary to flood the tray to the overflow, probably only 20-25% full in most cases. Say you're using 125L tanks; fill only to 25L & add 250ml 50% grade H2O2. Run the pump to fill the tray to overflow & let drain. Then you can either dump that shock treatment mix & mix a new batch of sauce with 1ml/L 50% H2O2 or you can just fill the res with water & add nutes as per usual. In the case of a 125L tank, you're saving a litre of H2O2 but still getting the high concentration needed to purge the system of pathogens.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
H2O2 tends to react with organic matter, not necessarily plant oils like neem. H2O2 will instantly oxidise things like enzymes (which are proteins, organic matter) and predatory or competitive bacteria. Should be OK with just neem oil.
When your lights shut off, your temp-operated exhaust fan will likely shut off. Stopping ventilation may account for more intense aromas in the flowering room.
Soil is far too much work. Messy, heavy, low production compared to even flood & drain hydroponics.
Shwagbag
Well-Known Member
To each their own really.... But with a well formulated soil mix its quite simple, just add water
With the right strains I can knock down 16-18 zips in a 4 x 4 space per month. SOMEDAY I will use your method, which I very much look forward to, I just don't have the time to maintain 4 reservoirs compared to a just add water approach with a soil mix. Or at least the change scares the hell out of me lol. I REALLY want to get a small tray running this winter if time permits to get my feet wet with your method, probably start with a small tray with 5 or 6 1 liter pots and see if I can't dial it in.I honestly adopted some of your method to set up my perpetual though, 4 plants roughly 8 week strains, every 2 weeks one plant comes out and another one goes in averaging about 4 zips per plant.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Unfortunately, this is not a 'to each their own' sort of judgment call. Hydroponics, even very simple systems like flood & drain, will always outperform soil, mainly due to increased oxygenation to the roots. Wick hydro systems (aka 'smart pots') perform similarly to soil due to similar levels of root oxygenation. Further, use of sterile media with each crop eliminates the chance of soilborne root disorders. Even freshly mixed potting soil will contain a certain amount of fungi & other pathogens.To each their own really.... But with a well formulated soil mix its quite simple, just add water
I honestly adopted some of your method to set up my perpetual though, 4 plants roughly 8 week strains, every 2 weeks one plant comes out and another one goes in averaging about 4 zips per plant.
This is a change you should in no way fear- nowhere to go but up.
The New Jim Jones
Well-Known Member
after this harvest i have to move my setup, so when i do, ill try out some simple DIY hydro, i have heard quite a lot of good shit about hydro, its just a mystery to me, and what humans dont know scares them. I am human. Hydro is a mystery to me. Therefore Hydro scares me, no but honestly it sounds awesome, harvest every 2 weeks is beyond insane, if i ever could do that i would, i will seriously read this thread in a couple of months after i harvest, until then im subbed
Trap Bunkin
Member
There is somewhere in these threads that explains how and why DIY flood trays are not economical. Everything else can be DIY but it is advised that you purchase the flood trays from your local hydro shop.
Taurich
Member
First time I grew in hydro I had no idea what I was doing, not only had I not grown any plants before (let alone weed), but I really didn't understand the flood and drain system I was using, started from seed, and I was constantly running back to the hydro store for extra supplies. I killed a bunch of plants, burnt some plants early then underfed them late. In short I did just about everything you could do to ensure a terrible harvest
For my 3 months of toil and mistakes I got 14oz of some of the finest smoke I've ever toked (at the time), the crop after yielded over a pound, the crop after yielded more again.
Go to hydro guys, it's totally worth it
For my 3 months of toil and mistakes I got 14oz of some of the finest smoke I've ever toked (at the time), the crop after yielded over a pound, the crop after yielded more again.
Go to hydro guys, it's totally worth it
The New Jim Jones
Well-Known Member
fucking shit balls, i got one oz offa three shitty sativas the first time i grew
Taurich
Member
Maybe not totally relevant, but made me giggle ^^
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/386184_473081616046188_2109145821_n.jpg
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/386184_473081616046188_2109145821_n.jpg