Johnei's world.

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
The different definitions of Brat are an awesome example of different meanings.
Here is a topic Johnie likes.
I made my 1st soil mix. Tomorrow will be 4 weeks of cooking. Smells awesome. I'm gonna test it transplanting a root bound house plant that I know loves ffof to see how it reacts.
I'm a newbie to amending soil. I choose the Bio Live because I don't have access to all the amendments I'd like to have yet.
upload_2017-7-3_12-44-40.png

About 3 cu ft of used ffof ( 19 gallons ).
16 quarts of castings
16 quarts of perlite
8 quarts vermiculite
1 1/2 cups Bio Live.
3/4 bone meal.
3/4 blood meal.
3/4 Bat Guano 0-5-0
3/4 Kelp meal.
1/4 azomite.
1 1/2 Dolomite
1/4 Epsom
1/2 Humic Acid
1/4 cottonseed meal 6-1-1
Not sure if it's a good mix.
I'm gonna find out soon enough if I like the mix. Cool upper leaf on one of the soon to be guinea pigs for my soil.
upload_2017-7-3_12-49-59.png
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Looks like a very good mix! Only take it easy on the perlite next time would be my only thought, I probably would of done half that. I can see in the photo, probably will be very quick drying, when she grows up anyway. (?maybe?)

Looks good man!!!


--edit I just realized that photo is not the new soil.. sry bud. whoops.. forget that. Too late now to remove any perlite if it cooked.. It's still amazing soil in my opinion.
 
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Johnei

Well-Known Member
...and more SulPoMag/Kmag/Langbeinite for the ultimate mix I think it would be what you made there, even though that bio-Live has some, I think maaaaybe you'll be a little low on K... well not low, just they could use more probably... extra TBSP/gal of a 0-0-22 K source and I think it is very very very good mix. Nothing that a rich tea here n there cant take care of. You'll be fine. More than fine! :joint:
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
A good thing I like to do when using homemade soil is leave space at the top of the pot, and if ever any issue arises, you just add more fresh soil that you know has everything they need and wash it in through waterings and bam they continue, and can even add more castings or little guano then top dress with it rather than just a guano on its own top dressed, I use more soil mix. So I ussually always make more than I need. Also, some soil you don't use, is very good inocculant to get any next batch going faster as it's already had a month++ digesting and the microbe action will be wicked and powerful. :joint:
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
I want to build a DWC type table for organic soil airpots. :D

Build a deep wooden 5x4 garden bed with a sealed plywood top. Drill large holes in this top for airpots to sit inside sealed all the way up the pot 90% of the way up, so all the airpot side holes are sealed in this lower cavity. You with me? ..Then with a vortex fan punp air inside this cavity under pressure. The holes will have rubber type collars for pots to sit sealed. and i will install a glass tube with a ball inside that will float up to detect and tweak pressure to not make fan fire. What do you think? (for airpot super air chamber root pruning effect)

I even am thinking about drilling little holes in between the pots in the plywood top, and have drippers drip in there just fresh water, and pots inside will not touch the bottom, will create humidity down there all this water dripping action and roots will come out dwc style. Only clean water, and rely on the organic soil mainly.. but roots will come out on the table of fresh clean water.. and run to waste.. in case dirt soil gets in there. Organic soil airpot dwc hybrid??????????????

Help me please. Do you think this will work????


--edit pulled out the coloring set and did this.. very basic diagrams of what I am thinking...
d1.png d2.png d3.png
 
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Sedan

Well-Known Member
A good thing I like to do when using homemade soil is :joint:leave space at the top of the pot, and if ever any issue arises, you just add more fresh soil

In this way we also increase the root system. When the trunk is sprinkled with soil, it immediately turns into a root! What allows to develop the root system in two ways, regardless of whether he wants this plant or not!
 

Sedan

Well-Known Member
It is very difficult, even in Russian it can sometimes be explained. So do not worry much about it! If you asked me to describe how to get to such a street or where the nearest snack-house I would describe to you easily !!)) The branch that we dig in when it grows rises. This force is very powerful, fasten the branch very tightly so that it does not move at all! Otherwise, it withers over time, if there is a slight backlash, and you will say that shit is your way))) Got it?
 

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
Looks like a very good mix! Only take it easy on the perlite next time would be my only thought, I probably would of done half that. I can see in the photo, probably will be very quick drying, when she grows up anyway. (?maybe?)

Looks good man!!!


--edit I just realized that photo is not the new soil.. sry bud. whoops.. forget that. Too late now to remove any perlite if it cooked.. It's still amazing soil in my opinion.
...and more SulPoMag/Kmag/Langbeinite for the ultimate mix I think it would be what you made there, even though that bio-Live has some, I think maaaaybe you'll be a little low on K... well not low, just they could use more probably... extra TBSP/gal of a 0-0-22 K source and I think it is very very very good mix. Nothing that a rich tea here n there cant take care of. You'll be fine. More than fine! :joint:
Thanks for the advice. Here is a pic of the new soil. I'm gonna monitor their watering needs using a scale along with a moisture meter and run a few pots with my soil, a few with 100% ffof and a few with 50% mine and 50% ffof.
I want to try making teas. I'm new to that also. My garage hits the 90's in the summer and I wasn't sure that I wanted to brew in the house unless it does not smell bad so I'm not sure if I'm gonna try making teas yet. Richard Drysift suggests a small does of Cal mag 25ppms to each watering when using RO, when using the rev's super soil, if I have that right. My 1st thought is to water with RO water only for a couple weeks after transplant and then water with 25-50 ppms of GO cal mag+ each watering.
soil.JPG
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
I do not use CalMg, ever, so I do not know. Up to you. Tea's are rich in CalMg. Tea's smell earthy and sweet usually when using Molasses for example, only smell like shit if your air infusion is weak and tea goes anaerobic. Also fish product will usually make tea smell strong. I do not use fish products except for the organic fish bone meal in the soil mix and do not use it in teas. Guano's are better all around. The small amount of Guano in teas do not smell. Worm Casting tea do not smell. Smells earthy. Also if you add yeast type products can get crazy smell.

My soil mixes are meant to be used in conjuction with a tea brewing regimen, it is not super soil where you will never feed. You should not treat it as a super soil for months, and then only when deficient in nutrition then use teas, teas should be used through so the soil NEVER becomes deficient in the first place through the entire crop. This is how to use my soil and tea formulas. IF you allow the soil to become depleted before deciding to use teas you have killed the mix and the supercharge on another level potency of buds using my mix is less likely, is my point.

Good Growing. :joint:

That soil looks very good.
At transplant throw a small handful of worm castings in the holes. :D

You must always feed and provide continual nourishment and oxygen for the microbes in the soil. You must feed and take care of the soil focusing all attention on the soil and not the plant, and you will have extreme success using my mixes, and never use salts of any kind, this will just impede microbe action and the protection they provide. This is one of the most important things I can tell you, that is important for me about my mixes. cu
 
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Johnei

Well-Known Member
Johnei said:
Worm Castings - (Red worms/African Nightcrawler mix) Provides a slow release of NPK and all trace minerals and is packed with huge amounts of unique diverse beneficial bacteria and fungi for soil and plant growth that strengthen, protect and increase uptake of nutrients in the rhizosphere. Also used to spray on leaves as a microbial protection coating layer killing most biting insects from the inside out and inhibiting bad fungi and disease from taking hold. The best!)
Dolomite Lime powder + Dolomite Lime pellets - (Long term pH stabilization and provides Ca and Mg slow release as the Lime is neutralizing the acidic peat moss base.)
Kelp Meal - (Packed with all trace minerals, has low slow release NPK value, many growth hormones and auxins, and things not even identified by science yet. It's an amazing microbe food source that provides carbohydrates and proteins and a lot more. Amazing for plants.)
Glacial Rock Dust - (Every single mineral on earth you can think of.)
Organic Alfalfa Meal - (Hot, soil must have composting time before use min. 2 weeks. Excellent Nitrogen source. Also has low levels of phosphorus and potassium and tons of micronutrients, vitamins, and a special plant growth hormone Triacontanol. It heats up the soil from within so composting quickens and metabolic microbe and plant functions speed up and is an extremly good food source for microbes containing proteins, enzymes and carbohhydrates.)
Organic Fish Bone Meal - (High P and Ca. Soil holds on to phosphorus and is tightly bound within the soil's humic matrix and the soil doesn't want to give it up easy so you need more than usual compared to hydro for example. Uptake of phosphorus for plants growing in soil is difficult and only happens with the help of microbes. Phosphorus levels are extremly high in bone and so is Calcium. I use organic fish bone meal to avoid nasty antibiotics or other crap like synthetic growth hormone boosters in the fish that they most likely gave the fish while it was still alive and residue could be in the bone. I do not and never will use steamed bone meal from cows, ever. Disgusting.)


------------------------------------------
Guanos:
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Next few things are only for compost tea brewing because the dust is gross to be spreading over the soil if you breath it in, and also is quite expensive in quantity so I stretch the products by only using in compost tea brewing so as to draw out and expand the microbe army from these products and inoculate the soil with it even though the soil is rich in life already. They are each not only rich in their own unique diverse microbes but are all rich in NPK and every other micronutrient and tons other goodies for plants. Guano is the best 'shit' there is. Some people are against using it for 'tree hugging' purposes saying harvesting of the guano destroys bat ecosystems blahblah.
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Mexican High N Bat guano - (Quickly available N and practicaly every micronutrient, Can fry plants if not careful. High levels of unique diverse microbes and chitin from the insects these bats eat = Systemic Aquired Resistance SAR response in plants which makes them more resistant to bugs, disease, drought, cold etc. flips on their immune system like a cheat to trick and force the plant to already make fighter cells before an attack happens so they're stronger. The compounds in the insect exoskeleton make the plant believe it is under attack.)
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Indonesian High P guano - (High levels of unique diverse microbes and special compounds only found in unique fruiting trees of the jungle/forests of Indonesia that these bats eat from. Nothing compares. This is only used in teas and for top dressing and watering in during flower sometimes if needed. It's the most expensive of the guano's, and hard to find. The one I use is 0.5 - 30something - 1.0. I can't even find it anymore and I only have very little left so I save it for the tea brews. Other Indonesian guano brands these days are in the 20something Phosphorus range, and Jamaican guano is even lower than that and I don't use it, just turned out that way, I have nothing against the Jamaican. But where is the most crazy unheard of undisturbed forest/jungle land fruiting trees full of 'magical' compounds and nutrients that plants love, Indonesia over Jamaica by far. Jamaica has heavily mined and industrialized guano operations. Quality is lower. Nutrients are lower.)
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Peruvian Seabird guano pellets - (Usually something like 10-10-2.5 and packed with unique diverse microbes, micronutrients and compounds from the ocean where these birds eat fish, and those fish eat other creatures and seaweeds in the rich ocean depths, which transfers down the food chain and why this guano is so rich with 10-10-2.5 balanced nutrition and packed with tons of goodness.)
Johnei said:
TBSP = tablespoon = 15ml
tsp = teaspoon = 5ml


New Soil:
/1 gallon soil


70% Promix
10% Perlite
20% EWC
2TBSP Dol.Lime powder + 1tsp Dol.Lime pellets
1TBSP Kelp Meal
1TBSP Rock Dust
1TBSP Alfalfa Meal
1TBSP MexicanGuano
1TBSP Lanbeinite
2TBSP FishBoneMeal
1tsp IndonesianGuano

Soil Wetting Tea:
/ 1 gallon water


2-3TBSP EWC
1/2 tsp Kelp Meal
1/4 tsp Rock Dust
1/2tsp<->1tsp Unsulfered Molasses
splash of Humic acid
splash of Fulvic acid

Brew for only 18-24 hours.
Use as soon as possible.
Johnei said:
Very Important!

The soil mixture I have written above must be left in a big rubbermaid type container or barrel or huge thick bag etc. to allow for the microbial army helpers to begin digesting the ingredients inside the mix. The microbial army helpers will transform the ingredients into more usable plant available forms for plant uptake and processing. This time is also critical for the microbial army helpers to get extremly well established inside the soil mixture well before you plan to use it with any plants. You must have either a few holes in the container to allow it to breath and still stay humid and moist inside, or you must mix and overturn the soil every week to allow it to breath properly. The soil is a living organism now. You must not overly saturate the soil mixture with water when you initially wet it for storage. The soil needs only to be thoroughly and evenly moist throughout!!! The mix must sit for a minimum of 2weeks, but 1 month is much better. 2 months is even better, and so on. Soil must breath remember! Also, the soil must not be allowed to get bone dry!!! This is very important!!! If you need to wet the mixture again use a humic and/or fulvic acid solution, or another compost tea.
Johnei said:
Clone/Seed soil mix: (Simple and effective.)

1gal Promix
2cups Perlite
1cup Worm Castings
1TBSP Dolomite Lime powder
1TBSP Glacial Rock Dust
1TBSP Kelp Meal
Wet with low dose Humic acid and Fulvic acid solution, or Worm Casting tea.
 
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Johnei

Well-Known Member
Johnei said:
Veg tea

tsp=teaspoon
TBSP=tablespoon
per 1gallon of non-chlorine, non-chloramine water

--2TBSP Soil (Soil you always reuse that has already been ammended, or healthy outside soil a few inches deep around where the plants live)
--2TBSP EWC (RedWorms and AfricanNightcrawler EWC mix)
--1TBSP Organic Alfalfa Meal
--1tsp Kelp Meal
(Not ground powder, Meal.)
--1/2tsp Glacial Rock Dust or Azomite (or 1/4 tsp of each per 1gal. water) Never too much, compacted powdery substances are not good for microbe air space purposes. It will compact the mix too much. Little goes a huge long way.
--1/2tsp Organic Rolled Oats (not powder, rolled oats for more surface area for fungi to latch onto and feed/grow)
--small unmeasured splash of fulvic acid per entire 4-5gal tea brew
--small unmeasured splash of humic acid per entire 4-5gal tea brew

(Fulvic and Humic acids are not necessary here, but won't hurt anything and provide benefits, never too much.)

--1/4tsp Unsulfered Molasses (All the complex carbohydrates in this mix and long chain slow to breakdown sugars will feed fungi growth, what we want, bacteria is always present, if we use too much Molasses type sugars it will grow the bacteria to insane levels too quickly, and take up all the dissolved oxygen in the bucket faster than can be replenished, the bacteria will take over growing so fast and the tea will shift anaerobic. We want more complex carbohydrates, that take longer to digest, which will give a chance for the fungi to be dominant in the tea brew. so a slightly longer brew, with very very low Molasses, or dont use it all!)

..and if you have it, some High Nitrogen Mexican Bat Guano...
It's not absolutely necessary with the formula I've given that is already rich with many forms of NPK Ca Mg and all trace minerals, but all guano's are amazing stuff, it's their microbe content we want to draw out in the tea and multiply the army of helpers. Mexican guano also trigger a SAR response in plants; Systemic Aquired Resistence. The Mexican Bats eat insects, while Jamaican bats and Indonesian bats eat fruit, and are higher in phosphorus and compounds from fruiting plants. The insect's exoskeleton fools the plant into thinking it is under attack, and turns on its immune response to create killer helper cells, before an attack actually occurs, which makes the plant more resistent to bugs, pathogens, and disease, as well as against frost and heat damage. It tricks the plants to become stronger, BEFORE an attack may come. A little goes a long way. This stuff can burn with it's high levels of nitrogen in salty form, even after bewing in a tea. The microbe digestion action in the tea will 'soften' the salty nutrients in the Mexican Guano to more plant available forms, but still too much will fry the plants. Other Guano's are a little more forgiving.)
--1tsp<->1TBSP High Nitrogen Mexican Bat Guano, usually something like 10-3-1 NPK - per 1gallon of water, depending on the stage of plant life and how strong you want to feed them actual EC/PPM NPK Ca Mg +trace minerals value. The alfalfa is rich in Nitrogen as well, so not too much, we just want to draw out the microbes, mainly, and get some NPK value as a bonus.


Brew the concoction with the least amount of water you can, so that the most amount of oxygen from your pump will increase dissolved oxygen levels in that smaller amount of water, then dilute before feeding to proper amount if you have to. Super high incredible levels of oxygen being pumped into the tea is key here, or you'll be feeding what you think is good brew, but will be shit.


If not to follow precicely, then just to give ideas for you. I would use this to feed nice strong vegging plants.
This is not for young plants, although you could dilute this 50/50, or even to only 25% strength cut it in 4 and will still provide incredible nutrition and diverse life to the soil.


You could also use Peruvian Seabird Guano which is usually something like 10-10-2.5, instead of the Mexican bat guano, or even both in small quantities each here. The PSG is super potent and very nutrition containing elements from the ocean, like Seaweeds/Kelp, and unique diverse microbes from the sea. It's packed with NPK Ca Mg and all trace minerals. Birds eat the fish, those fish have been eating other fish, and so on eating little micro creatures and feeding on seaweeds. Highly nutritious and why it is 10-10-2.5 and complete. I use PSG that is in pellet form, and just toss a few in the tea for extra microbes that wouldn't be there otherwise. This is the way. Microbe diversity, from many many sources.


Smoked a fatty, and this is what happens, it's good shit! ...I don't mean to... teach you or anything, it's just so you understand a couple things in my mixes. cya Hope this helps.

Good Growing! :joint:
 
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