Leaves curling up, what do I do?

ghgou812

Active Member
Hello... need more info to offer assistance, you should give us nutes fed, water (ph'd to?), humidity, what kind of lights and as GWN has asked, what are your temps?
 
The soil I'm using is 50% fox farm ocean forest and 50% light warrior, the temp is 72.5 with a 51% humidity. They are 5 weeks old, and I haven't fed anything yet, just water with couple drops of squeezed organic lemon juice to lower the ph to 6.0-6.5
 

ghgou812

Active Member
I would agree with kmogg33... FFOF can sometimes be a little on the "hot" side. New growth looks decent, keep your eye on that, if problems continue, update us. BTW.... when you do feed go very light.... 1/4 or 1/2 strength and build up from there, just my opinion. Good luck!
 

Medinugs

Active Member
Lemon juice will lower ph but not stable. Ph will be back to original value within 24hrs or so. General Hydroponics PH Down is really cheap and will last a long time with a small grow, 3 drops per gallon may be all you need depending on buffering ability of your water.
 

Medinugs

Active Member
Look to be pretty healthy and well fed though. I would give straight ph'd water till the slightest lightening/yellowing is noticeable, then light nutes slowly working up to normal strength by start of flowering flowering. My first few grows were FFOF soil, grew beautifully for 2 months veg with nothing but ph'd RO water and calmag 5ml/gallon every 4th watering.
 

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
If it is a nutrient deficiency, and not some other environmental problem, my guess would be potassium. Here's a quote from Plant Physiology Online:

http://5e.plantphys.net/article.php?id=289

"The onset of potassium deficiency is generally characterized by a marginal chlorosis progressing into a dry leathery tan scorch on recently matured leaves. This is followed by increasing interveinal scorching and/or necrosis progressing from the leaf edge to the midrib as the stress increases. As the deficiency progresses, most of the interveinal area becomes necrotic, the veins remain green and the leaves tend to curl and crinkle."

To me, the description of K def seems closest to what I'm seeing in your pictures. But I'm a newb...

BTW, vinegar (we're using apple cider vinegar) appears to be a good alternative to commercial pH Down products.
 
Oh wow, I'm learning a lot from just these few last posts, thanks a lot guys. I do have a ph down solution but the thing is I don't have the instructions for the amount to use, so I'll have to look for that. It definitely seems like a K def from the passage U out up
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
PH will rise gradually even with General Hydro's PH down..... plants do not feed 24/7 so they do not need to be PH'd perfect at all times. Gradual rises in PH are not a problem as long as the nutrient solution and PH is changed out after a couple days, and you readjust your PH back down to where the plant can take in all of the nutrients it needs.
 

Alexander Supertramp

Well-Known Member
PH will rise gradually even with General Hydro's PH down..... plants do not feed 24/7 so they do not need to be PH'd perfect at all times. Gradual rises in PH are not a problem as long as the nutrient solution and PH is changed out after a couple days, and you readjust your PH back down to where the plant can take in all of the nutrients it needs.
You are talking hydro and he is growing in soil.
 

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
I apologize if I pointed you in the wrong direction. Looks like the more experienced growers are in consensus that the plant is over-fed, in which case giving them more is counter-productive. I tried to sound a cautious note because 1) I'm a newb, 2) the plant is young and they generally don't need nutes so early, and 3) I don't want to kill your plants.

It's impossible to give directions on the bottle for a pH product. The only directions you need for using a pH up or down product: get a pH meter and some calibration solution. Don't buy the cheapest meter you can find. Decent meters start at about $80. It'd be great to buy calibration solutions for all 3 points, but I think single-point calibration is good enough. Most of the things we're measuring are pretty close (should be anyway) to the pH 7.0 single point calibration standard.
 
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