leaves drooping after transplant

unless its a hot chick .. i might actually help her out lol

what a dick

daloudpack said:

im gonna start giving the most outrageous diagnosis and solutions i can..... call it taking out the competition

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Douchebag

DSinatra said:

Lmfaoooo! But yeah there are tons of people that don't do research. It's faster to search it on Google than to sign up, log in, ask the question here and wait for a response lol

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Searched it on google. This was the 1st result in the search.

If you let your roots grow out to the sides of the previous pot, where they had access to air and water they don't normally have in the center and then transplant that plug into the center of a new pot, it is going to take a little adjustment.

d6520 said:

Its normal after I made my transplant from 1 litter buckets to 5 gal buckets my plants looked sad for about 2 or 3 days.... I misted them 4 times a day with rhizotonic... Its been a week since transplant and my plants growth has totally increased just be patient.
+rep

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What level of rhizotonic did you use to what litre of water ?

Best advise is to stop using soil and switch to hydro and go really easy on the nutes. 1/4 of recommendation strength. (the brand dont matter use whats affordable) kelp extract is a must, and a base A + B made for cannibis try jacks' (affordable) at 3/4 recommended strength at max. Anything more and you are asking for troubles. Try coco and perlite 50% each cant be over watered must be watered daily. Best if watered twice at least per day remember its hydro = water in big pot twice at least in small pots you need an auto water system. A pump set on a timer from your feed to the plants followed by another pump on a timer to drain the excess runoff to another bucket. Cheap and easy and you will save tons of time by going auto. I also recommend using HPS lights with a low power red + blue led. Run your high power HPS lights 8-12 hours per day and use your very low power Red + blue LED 18/6 with two light cycle on top of each other so ultimately you get three light settings. Low setting mimics early morning and early evening. High setting mimics direct sunlight. Result is you save 50% on light energy and DECREASE internode spacing i.e a decrease from HPS alone on any light schedule, from the supplemental blue light coming off the low power LEDs. LED red blue light can be quite low and indirect. Besides saving money you will help the plants by mimicking a low stress natural light cycle. So for VEG its 4-8-6-6. Low-High-Low-Off. Or morning-day-evening-night ect. Flower is 1-9-1-13. So you save the most during VEG. Also obviously you could use CFLs for the low light settings as well, it wouldn't be as efficient, it may even more effective at destressing the girls.

Dont ever give up on sick plant if you know its female. In the picture this girl was once on the edge of death from lack of attention. Flush buffered her back to .55 EC my tap is .15 EC = .4 EC nutes the coco had fermented a bit and made her hot I. PH 4.2 flush buffered back to 5.8. She slowly came back from literally just a dead looking stem with a tiny sprout. Now 4 weeks later shes really thriving. The white spots are just from the camera flash because the flesh is so shiny. Theres really no I single thing wrong with her now. Ready to go into flower... Note I'm just a small medical grow and I stagger the flowering so every 2 weeks I take one out and put one in. This way theres always alittle medicine but not beyond my legal limit.