LED DIY : Making of a "DJ SET "-style grow led light .

DJ SET -style grow light !!!!

LOL !!!!

Yeap !

Double module growlight ,using Guod's framework style ....

But let's begin ....


First stage : ....

Building the basic frame ....

-2 x large heatsinks ( here used 200 x 160 x 40 mm
-2 x pcs of unequal angles (here used 2 x ~ 60 cm EN 10056-1 STD: RSA 40 x 20 x 4 ( mm ) of Alum 6063 )
- Alum Rivets ( here used 16 x pieces of 4 x 16 mm )
-Thermoconductive glue (cheap one-silicon based - will do ... )
........

..


-Thermoconductive glue( silicone based ) is applied to the overlapping surfaces of riveted parts of heatsinks and angles ...
-Rivets can have ( A2 / A4 inox ) small washers behind ,for extra "grip " ...

Good start!!!!!!


<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjPL2oCrddM" target="_blank">[video=youtube;kjPL2oCrddM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjPL2oCrddM[/video]

Ok....Now,there's plenty of space to house one 120 mm fan (standard ~25 mm thickness )there ,over the heatsink ....




Now ...To make the electronics compartment .....
This time we ,will leave "air outlets " from the sides of heatsink ....
So base will be face to angle's profiles ....
Measurements taken ....


Two ' equal leg ' alum angles ( DIN 10056-1 ) RSA 25 x 25 x 3 and an alum plate ( of 4mm thickness ) used ...

Plate should be of 161 - ( 2 x 3 mm ) width ( ~ 155 mm ) ..
And not 160 mm like shown at pic ( mistakes happen .... )

Click to expand...

Riveted together .....Riveted parts ,also glued with thermal conductive silicone ...
( to conduct as much heat,through different parts )
.......

...
And attached to basic frame via 6 x Allen Screws ( M3 or M4 ) ...
( INOX A2 or A4 tool grade )





Now we have a bottom-accessible electronics compartment .
Bottom cover can be removed as top cover ...

Now ..Radical grower -wise design....


All " controls " ( rotary dimmer knobs ,fuses,on-off switches ,temp status Lcd &/or touchscreens (!!!! ),ect ....) at bottom of bottom cover ...!

Now ....
Thing is that everything starts from leds ...

Total power and arrangement ...

Driving ,cooling ,ect all starts from choices, considering primarily the leds ....

So ...
At this design ,for the leds to be driven, 4 drivers ( MeanWell APC 35-350 ) need to be used ....
Of this size each :
...

So ...We got our drivers ....
.....


And time to fit four of those in da box .....
..

Can't be ..
So many years' expierence as a man ,it should 've been useful ,right now ....
Sticking a large thing into tight ,small 'n hot places .....
.....


Have to find a way there ,now .....

I'm liking this^^^........build it and "they" will come......Very nice so far SDS!You are a perverted genius

Thanx,my brother ....
Now in this design ....
Funny ...
While looking at it from the bottom (where leds are ..) should remind still a dj set ..


Looking From above ..On top side ....

To fight against heat ....

Drivers should stick out from top cover ( " hood " ) ...
Like a vintage analog monoblock amplifier ..
Where tranformers and electronic valves where sitted usually on top ,outside of the device's box ....

Kinda like the supercharger thing that sticks out from 70'-80's 'muscle-hot-rod" 'wheels' ..

Breathe air ....

Have to design ,a "protective cage ",there ..
Perforated stainless sheet ....?


Not a bad idea ...
Couple of angles or other profile,also ,to make a small "frame " ......

Later on ....
Now ,have to place drivers in da box ....

After two joints .....

4x pcs of unequal leg angles ..RSA 60 x 20 x 5 mm ...
(extra cooling for the drivers ...Thermal conductive glue everywhere here .... )





EDIT :

Way too many rivets ...
Ok this panel it's "armored " enough ..
(5 mm thickness angles to attach drivers ! Overdoing it !
...........
But if free backside is "grooved "by i.e CNC ,then
those angles can be turned into small finned heatsinks,for the drivers ! )

Problem is elsewhere really ....
Rivets are way many ......
Looks like a submarine from the 50's .....


So drivers' "seat" angles ,have to be installed when making ( at previous step ) the electronics compartment "bottom " ....
(................2x equal leg angles + small base plate & 4x driver angles ,to be one unit ,riveted-and thermal-o-conductive glued -together ..)




That's the good part of pre-modelling ..
Saves from trouble,nerves,money and time ....
Allows to spot any misfits,unnecessary or double work ,material waste or any other problems..
Plus it allows experimentation ....
Without actual,real-life cutting ,drilling,sawing ,riveting,ect ....

Ok ....

A typical 120 mm fan has these dimensions :

..
Blowing air out from the side with the rotor / motor frame ...

...

So ..On with "centering " fans to heatsinks ....

Now ....
Let's start the top cover ....

Taking some measures first ....

.
Top cover will be made from 3 mm thick alum sheet ....

......Measuring holes
....and centering them ...........

...Holes done .....

....
This rectangular hole (for the drivers to stick out ) needs to be ,probably bigger ....
The "protective cage " has to fit,somehow ....
Will see about it ,later on .....
....

So far ,so good ....

YES!!!!^^^^^beautiful...........adding some air channeling outlets(air escapes under the switches and drivers) under the drivers allowing quick air exchange over the inner (center of panel)part of the heatsink and not adding heat to the switches/drivers themselves(increasing longevity).....yikes---can't explain correctly

were the hell is GUOD!!!!!


Edit:.......nevermind....your design shows no bottom cover/great airflow!...doh!! disregard any improvements I post

Totally subbed for it.

So.....

Fans will be attached to top cover ...
Protective grills is a must ,in case of metal fans used ...
(like high quality ebm papst fans ) ...



http://www.ebmpapst.com/en/products/compact-fans/axial-compact-fans/axial_compact_fans.php

Same inox allen screws,used (M2 or M3 ) ....

......

PSUAGRO. said:

YES!!!!^^^^^beautiful...........adding some air channeling outlets(air escapes under the switches and drivers) under the drivers allowing quick air exchange over the inner (center of panel)part of the heatsink and not adding heat to the switches/drivers themselves(increasing longevity).....yikes---can't explain correctly

were the hell is GUOD!!!!!

Click to expand...

Maybe I should have placed the drivers parallel to heatsink fins ,to allow for better air circulation ,inside the electronics compartment ....
But ...
Yes ......where is he ,when needed most ?

stardustsailor said:

Maybe I should have placed the drivers parallel to heatsink fins ,to allow for better air current ,inside the electronics compartment ....

Click to expand...

I completely agree. This is looking top-notch.

Perhaps angling fans slightly so as to create a wind-tunnel effect(after turning drivers parallel)? I suppose that would leave a "dead" spot and would then require reworking the whole design...

Nevermind...

Angling fans ....Easy done with washers .....

But ,each heatsink will bear two led modules ....
I need them to be as equally cooled as possible ....
Angling the fans ,might create problems there ....


Have to try to turn the drivers parallel ....
( again the old base rivets back in place & changing top cover rect. hole dimensions .. )

Maybe move the switches and fuses at center ,so to place pairs of drivers-one driver behind other ,like cyclists -
at sides of compartment ,where they will not
obscure(that much ) the internal air flow ...

Wait I 'll give it a quick try ...
Fix the details (rivets ) later on ...

Now ,guys ...
Many minds are better than one (heavily stoned and without getting decent sleep/rest .... )..
Help out ....




Drivers re-arranged .....
Air flow is way better than before .....(but a small 12 V psu-for the fans - is missing there also .....)
Now ..Angles' backsides can be used as part of frame (Side walls of top cover for electronics compartment..phewww)



Swithes and fuse holders had to be re-arranged also ....
(Not anymore cold switches ....This panel has ...heated swithes ....Warm to touch ..makes you eager to switch on ..LOL !!!...)



Some cable bending and 'circuitry-cable- pasta/macaroni -syndrome ' placing (AC inletof one driver with DC CC outlet of other driver ..
Cables come 'n go ,everywhere .....)




And finally ,the major question ..
Why the heck having two angles there ? ( 4x drivers and 2x bottom cover base ,actually .....)

Incorporate two only angles ,as " bottom cover base " holding/attaching structures and at same time ,
Side walls of top cover construction (non-removable) ,that drivers will be attached on ...

Thing is attaching the drivers ........
Have to use screws .....Which will penetrate basic frame's long angles .....

From inner side or from outter ?

Oh...Have to design it .....


EDIT:
(Can't imagine this thing happening in real life .....
....Oh $h..

Ok ....Take an idea .....


......=>
..Swithes/fuse holders moved again ...
And ..............
As for top cover .............
Air flow/heat management seems really improved now ....=>

ouaou!!!
very clever!

Now .....An extra large central grill was added in top cover ,between drivers ....
Made of a small piece of perforated SS sheet ...



Now...If zDrivers should be left as is (uncovered ),there's no mains cable showing ...
How to attach them ,remains an issue ...
With screws ...
But how ...
From the inner side or from outer side ?
(At inner side, screw head will be amongst cables ,there...)