Little gnats eating soil?

In my veging clones soil & sometimes on the leaves there more and more little nats. They don't seem to be harming the plant... The question is can they harm the plant and either way how do I get rid of em?

Cookie_rookie said:

In my veging clones soil & sometimes on the leaves there more and more little nats. They don't seem to be harming the plant... The question is can they harm the plant and either way how do I get rid of em?

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There's different additives to yur water you can try. I never did so can't say they work from personal experience. Try letting your soil dry out completely before your next water. If your soil is always moist they will thrive and you'll never get rid of them. As far as effects on your plants, during veg less likely to hurt the plant. In flower they can get in your buds so I would try and get rid of them before flowering. A couple here and there isn't bad but if they are all over I'd act now.

I have fungus gnats on my single soil girl, I put a layer of perlite over the top, they are still there in lesser numbers but I'm not really concerned, they can fuck with young roots on seedlings and clones though I believe

Buddy of mine told me to get some organic catipiller stuff for the water and sticky paper...

He says they will start eating the roots

Any one else have input?

Fungus gnat larvae do feed on roots. I use Spinosad mixed in my water to kill them. The yellow sticky pads will attract the flyers and trap them so they cannot get back to the soil and lay more eggs. A big fan blowing across the pots will make it hard for them to get back to the soil.

the flyers are not attracted to the sticky traps they are just so stupid that they walk right over and onto the sticky stuff and die. havign a fan helps to blow them off course and into the traps. you can even chase them with your fingers onto the traps.. they are STUPIDS.

I would use the traps to gage how bad your problem is.. count how many are dead in the trap daily and if they start getting more and more and more then you need to get some sns 203 and do a drench of the top half of the pot. after or before this if you water through the bottom of the pots it keeps the top couple inches of the soil dry and with a dry top layer it will drastically reduce the odds of more eggs being layed and turning into larva which the larva is what eats the roots.
You can go all organic and get predatory nematodes too.. this works quite well.
Or if youre lucky enough to have hypoaspis miles they will take care of the bad bugs for you.

I'm stressin about this I can see tons of flyers In the soil some people are saying hydrogen paroxide

But I was thinkin it will kill the good stuff in my soil?

Cookie_rookie said:

I'm stressin about this I can see tons of flyers In the soil some people are saying hydrogen paroxide

But I was thinkin it will kill the good stuff in my soil?

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heres an easy trick instead of pumping soils full of chemicals peroxcides and so on works 100% for me each time let your soil dry out and leave it for 1 week with a fan blowing on them lighly larva cant live in dry soil and be the adults have nothing to feed on then with thw fan theres 2 things that happen cause the soil is dry they cant feed which they cant fly due to not eating so they will fly till they die or land and die fuck chemicals an wasting ur money that works every single time

rob333 said:

heres an easy trick instead of pumping soils full of chemicals peroxcides and so on works 100% for me each time let your soil dry out and leave it for 1 week with a fan blowing on them lighly larva cant live in dry soil and be the adults have nothing to feed on then with thw fan theres 2 things that happen cause the soil is dry they cant feed which they cant fly due to not eating so they will fly till they die or land and die fuck chemicals an wasting ur money that works every single time

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the week of dry soil should also kill the eggs if u want after that week i can water with 2 tablespoons of peroxcide to a gallon of water but to be honest u wont need 2

Diametrius Earth, my friend.

http://www.diatomaceousearth.com/

Mix it in the top 2 inches of soil each transplant. It seems like a powder to us, but to fungus gnat larvae, it's like sharp jagged razors as they try to wriggle to the surface. Slices them up good.

End of fungus gnat problems.

I use it and it works.

Sand on top of soil?

Someone told me that

Ive never had a huge problem with fungas gnats, just a few here and there. Ive also heard H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) works but never tried it. I dont see how a little can hurt the plant .

TBoneJack said:

Diametrius Earth, my friend.

http://www.diatomaceousearth.com/

Mix it in the top 2 inches of soil each transplant. It seems like a powder to us, but to fungus gnat larvae, it's like sharp jagged razors as they try to wriggle to the surface. Slices them up good.

End of fungus gnat problems.

I use it and it works.

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Cookie_rookie said:

Sand on top of soil?

Someone told me that

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In this order, though it you do it properly the Diatomaceous earth will cure your problem.
And I use the yellow sticky traps, but just as a gauge of the adult population more than an outright control.
Also, allowing the soil to dry WELL between waterings.

I tried DE, i tried spinosad, i tried caterpiller spray, i tried every spray i had lol. What works for me the best is a product on amazon for twenty bucks, its called mosquito bits, or mosquito crumbles, something like that. Anyway, it looks like a steak spice shaker and it worked for me. I had a lot of those jerks and now i have none. Also, keep your room clean, standing water no way, clean around drain holes well with a little bleach. Empty buckets regularly.

Thank you all for the replies!!!!
Wish me luck with her. I went and got some play sand and sticky paper. Fingers crossed it works.

Let your soil dry out.