Lockout or Cal-Mag Deficiency?

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ZleepyTree

New Member
Plant was looking fine 2-3 days ago but did notice some possible nitrogen toxicity with the leaves curling down and today it was looking bad. Only gave water after noticing the toxicity. Lots of discoloration compared to a few days ago. Water has been a consistent 6.5, just recalibrated my today make sure it’s 6.5 going forward. Been giving calmag for majority of waterings/feedings. Am I looking at cal mag deficiency or lockout from ph of soil possibly?

Appreciate any insight as this is my first run.

1st pic: Current- Day 49
2nd and 3rd pic: week ago - Day 438072FBA0-81EC-42C4-B9BF-653540346FC8.jpeg1896CECE-2054-4136-820A-010E890310E1.jpeg521136A2-07C8-4F12-A3C9-642F2342E1D0.jpeg
 
Z

ZleepyTree

New Member
amneziaHaze said:
Whats yoir runnoff ph?
Click to expand...
I have not been able to check that yet. Last PPM I saw was like 900-1000. I just ordered a meter to measure the soil that should arrive today.

I did a feeding yesterday, should I wait till the pot is dry or should I water to runoff today and test ph?
 
D

DanKiller

Well-Known Member
N toxicity for sure, maybe some other form of it aswell.
Very hard to go back from now.
Notice the hardly formed trichomes, the extra green flowering sites not budding up, and leaf extreme green color.
I would suggest start over, or just try to give it 6.2 ph water from now on until the toxicity lowers and conditions go back to normal. but I think it's a waste of time imo.
You can also take it out of the pot and replant at a different pot with softer soil mix...
Rule of thumb, normal strains, not the ones that take 12+ weeks to finish, usually will tell you on week 4-5 if they are heading for a good finish or you have a problem, from how it's looking on day 43F, it was already too late for a proper finish.
 
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DanKiller

Well-Known Member
Brita is a normal coal filter, nothing more.
Some RO systems appear like Brita, as they put the system inside a comfortable jug, but they are not the same.
 
Z

ZleepyTree

New Member
DanKiller said:
N toxicity for sure, maybe some other form of it aswell.
Very hard to go back from now.
Notice the hardly formed trichomes, the extra green flowering sites not budding up, and leaf extreme green color.
I would suggest start over, or just try to give it 6.2 ph water from now on until the toxicity lowers and conditions go back to normal. but I think it's a waste of time imo.
You can also take it out of the pot and replant at a different pot with softer soil mix...
Rule of thumb, normal strains, not the ones that take 12+ weeks to finish, usually will tell you on week 4-5 if they are heading for a good finish or you have a problem, from how it's looking on day 43F, it was already too late for a proper finish.
Click to expand...
Just to clear up the life of the plant, this was day 43 and 49 total. These are autos. You mentioned giving ph of 6.2, just trying to figure out if its better to give lower or higher ph water to balance it out.
 
Z

ZleepyTree

New Member
Did multiple slurry tests along with a soil meter got delivered today. I let these sit for about an hour and half after mixing the soil and water.

If anyone would mind taking a glance and making giving a suggestion with these results to get back on course. My other plant seems to still be doing pretty fine and hasnt had any issues like this.

Test 1: Distilled Water(previously open prob why high PH)
Before Test:
8.8 ph
31 ppm

After Test:
6.1 ph
370 ppm


Test 2: Distilled Water(new gallon)
Before Test:
6.4 ph
4 ppm

After Test:
6.1 ph
330 ppm


Test 3: New Water Bottle
Before Test:
6.4 ph
13 ppm

After Test:
5.7 ph
485 ppm

Soil Meter: 7 ph
 
D

DanKiller

Well-Known Member
ZleepyTree said:
Just to clear up the life of the plant, this was day 43 and 49 total. These are autos. You mentioned giving ph of 6.2, just trying to figure out if its better to give lower or higher ph water to balance it out.
Click to expand...
Autos or not it doesn't matter, it's the same plant as all others.
Its better to give solid ph throughout, 6.2 is optimal.

ZleepyTree said:
Does that mean I should ditch the brita filter or its fine to keep using?
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Check with ec meter.
If it's under 0.3, use them as is or add ferts
If it's 0.5-0.8, use as is without nutes or watch your ferts input carefully.
If it's over 1.0 ec, buy an RO system as anything you input will make your water too salty.
 
Z

ZleepyTree

New Member
DanKiller said:
Autos or not it doesn't matter, it's the same plant as all others.
Its better to give solid ph throughout, 6.2 is optimal.



Check with ec meter.
If it's under 0.3, use them as is or add ferts
If it's 0.5-0.8, use as is without nutes or watch your ferts input carefully.
If it's over 1.0 ec, buy an RO system as anything you input will make your water too salty.
Click to expand...
Yeh, I know. I just didnt want you to think I was 40+ days into flower at that point. Was just clarifying.

I will measure the EC of the filtered water.
 
Z

ZleepyTree

New Member
Measured the PPM/EC of the filtered water. Came out to 350 PPM/0.7EC. 6.5ph

Ran water through the pot this morning and got these measurements from runoff. Runoff: 1200ppm 5.8ph
 
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DanKiller

Well-Known Member
Don't chase run off, make sure your inputs are solid and consistent and things will come through with ease.
But that is a high EC to begin with when you add ferts, so be careful about mixing ferts with that ec range.
For now I would suggest giving your normal water without adding ferts.
according to your run off you are at toxic levels and it shows on your plant.
But in anyway, start over as this plant it beyond worth repair imo
 
Beeswings

Beeswings

Well-Known Member
It's iron lockout from too high of calcium which is trying to make the update of nitrogen to high. I use RO water and use cal-mag once at beginning flowering and then only if a deficiency is noticed later on. FFOF has lots of Cal from the get go it seems.
 
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