lower leaves yellowing early into flowering?

tooler

Active Member
i have 3 plants 2 WWxBB and 1 gigabud. growing in organic mix, 3rd week into flowering an using an organic tea that consists of molasses and jamaican bat shit once a week, everything was lookin good til i noticed the lowest couple sets of fan leaves are starting to yellow qite a bit. also i am using a 150 watt hps.
 

slipperyP

Well-Known Member
i have 3 plants 2 WWxBB and 1 gigabud. growing in organic mix, 3rd week into flowering an using an organic tea that consists of molasses and jamaican bat shit once a week, everything was lookin good til i noticed the lowest couple sets of fan leaves are starting to yellow qite a bit. also i am using a 150 watt hps.

Did you check your ph of your runoff? I'm using a tea close to yours and I didnt use enough lime in my soil mix and my ph dove done to 4.5 and I had the same thing happening.:peace:
 

tooler

Active Member
Did you check your ph of your runoff? I'm using a tea close to yours and I didnt use enough lime in my soil mix and my ph dove done to 4.5 and I had the same thing happening.:peace:
i dont actually have a ph tester yet. what would you recomend a guy do to fix this situation? im still a newb, this is my second grow and i want it to go better than the first one. thanks for takin the time
 

slipperyP

Well-Known Member
i dont actually have a ph tester yet. what would you recomend a guy do to fix this situation? im still a newb, this is my second grow and i want it to go better than the first one. thanks for takin the time
I love having a tester...but if i had to guess....2 tbs of garden lime is a good spot to start...a test kit is not much $6 at a pet store...I got my meter on ebay...page 1 in my journal has the link...

Some of the garden lime is rolled up bits of clay and contains other minerals in trace amounts...I like the stuff? Good Luck
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
What does pH have anything to do with an issue like a N deficiency, over or under watering, etc.?

Come on guys, get off the pH ruse.

UB
 

slipperyP

Well-Known Member
What does pH have anything to do with an issue like a N deficiency, over or under watering, etc.?

Come on guys, get off the pH ruse.

UB

If you can help...send me a link...I had the same thing happening with one of my plants...My runoff was way low....Im not an expert and learning everyday but, I believe adding lime helped...

look at this link

https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/general-marijuana-growing/395558d1240527360-charts-charts-more-charts-nutrient-uptake-ph-charts...jpg
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
If you can help...send me a link...I had the same thing happening with one of my plants...My runoff was way low....Im not an expert and learning everyday but, I believe adding lime helped...

look at this link

https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/general-marijuana-growing/395558d1240527360-charts-charts-more-charts-nutrient-uptake-ph-charts...jpg
That nutrient chart is "the gold standard" of gardening and has been around for decades. :) As an example of macro availability, if you look closely at the N range you'll notice that N is readily available from a pH of 5.0 to 9.0, which corroborates with what I have been saying for years - cannabis is very pH tolerant when it comes to availability, lockouts. Most lockouts are caused by the use, abuse if you will, of NPK ratios that are way out of wack as it pertains to plant requirements, like your typical cannabis specific Grow foods that use a much higher ratio of K than N. They get 'em bass ackwards all the time.

Being that the grower's lower leaves are yellowing (and will soon drop), my best guess is that he is using a food that is not providing enough N, OR, has a cultural problem which is compromising the root system such that it is not capable of proper salts uptake - same thing, same visual affect.

Tooler, what are the NPK values of the foods you are using, and/or recently changed to?

Have a good one,
UB
 

slipperyP

Well-Known Member
That nutrient chart is "the gold standard" of gardening and has been around for decades. :) As an example of macro availability, if you look closely at the N range you'll notice that N is readily available from a pH of 5.0 to 9.0, which corroborates with what I have been saying for years - cannabis is very pH tolerant when it comes to availability, lockouts. Most lockouts are caused by the use, abuse if you will, of NPK ratios that are way out of wack as it pertains to plant requirements, like your typical cannabis specific Grow foods that use a much higher ratio of K than N. They get 'em bass ackwards all the time.

Being that the grower's lower leaves are yellowing (and will soon drop), my best guess is that he is using a food that is not providing enough N, OR, has a cultural problem which is compromising the root system such that it is not capable of proper salts uptake - same thing, same visual affect.

Tooler, what are the NPK values of the foods you are using, and/or recently changed to?

Have a good one,
UB
Nice...The chart shows less absorbtion around 5 and more around 6 and less at 9 again...that is the way i read the chart.

I haven't studied it alot (yet) but what your saying is PH isn't important to nutrient uptake?
 

tilemaster

Well-Known Member
having the means to check ur ph is an invaluable tool...try soaking rockwool cubes in unph'd tap water and try an clone..see the shitty results..feed ur plants un monitired water for entire grows and then try it with the correct ph levels..bigg difference.. if ur have a keen sense of colors and good vision..u can def get away with the vial cheap testers..but a digital version is always preffered.. i dont c how keeping ph in check is overrated.

i stop feeding them N all together around the 4th week of flower..unless i suspected a serious N def..then i would maybe give them a does of N l8ter then i would want 2. foliar spray would be faster if its indeed a nute def.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I haven't studied it alot (yet) but what your saying is PH isn't important to nutrient uptake?
No, what I'm saying is that peeps who don't really have a clue as to what may be wrong with the plant always seem to blame it on pH. It's the easy way out. I also said that cannabis is pH tolerant regarding element uptake.

UB
 

slipperyP

Well-Known Member
No, what I'm saying is that peeps who don't really have a clue as to what may be wrong with the plant always seem to blame it on pH. It's the easy way out. I also said that cannabis is pH tolerant regarding element uptake.

UB
I don't know what to tell you about all the peeps...but I like to check the PH...In my case it helped...I knew for sure I didn't have an N Deficiency...They just came from veg...

I transplanted right before I moved them over and forgot to set the soil ph...PH was the problem.

Here is a good link for plant deficiencies and solutions....

https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/1469-marijuana-plant-problems-cures.html


Marijuana Plant Problems and Cures

permalink
Before we get into this I want you to check a couple things, check the following things:
  • Plants have plenty of water
  • Soil is seven PH or even a little less
  • Your light cycles are correct
  • No pools of water
  • Constant fresh air
Now thats out of the way let Mr. Ganja God diagnose your plant

Bigger leaves are turning a yellowish color while the smaller leaves are green.
  • Nitrogen deficiency - add nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges, turn dark, possibly with a purple cast.
  • Phosphorous deficiency - add commercial phosphate.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish cast to least veinal areas.
  • Magnesium deficiency - add commercial fertilizer with a magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then become spotted with edge areas
turning dark gray.

  • Potassium deficiency - add muriate of potash.
Cracked stems, no healthy support tissue.
  • Boron deficiency -add any plant food containing boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with yellowish vein systems.
  • Zinc deficiency - add commercial plant food containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, possibly yellowing.
  • Molybedum deficiency - use any plant food with a bit of molybdenum in it.


This is the first post copied from the page...none of my own...It seams solid...
:peace: Slippery
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Now thats out of the way let Mr. Ganja God diagnose your plant

Bigger leaves are turning a yellowish color while the smaller leaves are green.
  • Nitrogen deficiency - add nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.
Someone needs to tell Mr. Ganga God that sodium is not cool and organic fertilizer is worthless unless it is high in N. Just a few thoughts right off the bat as I perused his wisdom.

UB
 

Maybetomorrow

Well-Known Member
PH is the starting place to curing any problems. I have a aero systems and PH is the backbone of my system. If I'm off by 1.0 either way it can be certain doom if not caught within a day or two. From what I have read soil PH problems seem to be far a few because the soil is more stable. But you are flowering and yellowing of lower fan leaves happens. Keep them until they are about to fall off or are starting to look droppy. Get a ph test kit from General Hydroponics, its 20 bucks and it has ph up and ph down. Make a tea and PH it, adjust and water and you should see your problem go away with in a week or so. But remember you are flowering so yellowing does happen

Good luck
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
But remember you are flowering so yellowing does happen

Good luck
With me, leaf drop is very limited. I'm able to keep most of my fan leaves green and healthy until harvest - that provides for excellent production.

It seems most are more interested in believing a label than what actually works.

UB
 

grow space

Well-Known Member
yep-ph is important and together with the nutes it is just good to now whats going on with your soils ph.you can test it once lets sy in the beginning, but remember when the harvest time is here the soils ph is changed for sure.it all depend what kind of water are you using and fertz.
 
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