Lucas Formula Recipe from Scratch "Really"

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cannatari

Well-Known Member
Hey fatman, please take a look at the formula I designed based on your great info in this thread. It is a 2:2:1 ratio of Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt, Foliage-Pro and Mag-Pro. The final N-P-K-Ca-Mg-S at 1300ppm is 269-120-239-81-55-31, hardwater analysis included. I'm not able to hit the numbers as well as I'd like to so I'd be honored if you can tell me what kind of problems you might forsee my plants having with using it. Also, what is your opinion of using supplemental silicon. Thanks a bunch!
P.S. I'm using it at 700-800 ppm @ .7 conversion in my reservoir.
 

fatman7574

New Member
It wil all come down to the matter of your pH. Dyna-gro uses an extremely high amount of ammonium nitrogen in its formulations Baout 32% or more of its total nitrogen. The general recomendtation if for less than 15% as ammonium nitrogen. Most mj specific formultions re designed for recirculation resrvoirs so are down around 3% to 6%. With out door grows the higher percentage seems to matter little as typicaly dolomite lime is added to the soil. In indoor grows it tends to lower the pH enough that most of the calcium , magnesium and iron become unavailable to the plants due their be used up as buffers. This usually always makes it necessary to add Botainicare CalMag Plus during budding.
 

cannatari

Well-Known Member
It wil all come down to the matter of your pH. Dyna-gro uses an extremely high amount of ammonium nitrogen in its formulations Baout 32% or more of its total nitrogen. The general recomendtation if for less than 15% as ammonium nitrogen. Most mj specific formultions re designed for recirculation resrvoirs so are down around 3% to 6%. With out door grows the higher percentage seems to matter little as typicaly dolomite lime is added to the soil. In indoor grows it tends to lower the pH enough that most of the calcium , magnesium and iron become unavailable to the plants due their be used up as buffers. This usually always makes it necessary to add Botainicare CalMag Plus during budding.
I see how the CalMag will benefit me. Thanks for the advice fatman.
 

cannatari

Well-Known Member
Fatman, you were 100% correct. The high percentage of NH4 took only 4 days to cause Potassium to get locked out in my nutrient solution. Nice one dude.
 

NLXSK1

Well-Known Member
Hey Fatman,

I have been having algae issues in my tank setup for flood and drain. I have dumped about 3 tanks cleaned and refilled with RO water + nutes + H202 only to have the algae come back within a few days.

I have been experimenting with chlorine for a few days and am getting confusing results.

I used an eye dropper to add chlorine to a 2 gallon bucket of RO water and ended up putting 60 drops to get the level to where I could read .5 ppm with a cheap pool test kit.

I then added 60 ml to a 30 gallon tank resulting in a reading of well over 50ppm chlorine (huge overkill) - I am going to dump this tank without using it.

So, I added only 5ml to another 30 gallon RO tank resulting in a reading of maybe 2-4ppm. I dumped 1/2 of that tank and re-filled with RO and had a reading somewhere between .5 and 1 (total color guestimate). I had not adjusted the PH of the tank but when I began doing that the chlorine level dropped. I used the water to flush my plants (I have been chasing a tank algae problem) and the water came out slightly cloudy. After the plants had been flushed and the resivoir tested there was still no reading from a blue lab truncheon ppm meter and the chlorine test results didnt show any chlorine left.

I added nutes and fed regularly last night and this morning. I added 1 ml of chlorine to the tank and could get no reading. I added a 2nd ml of chlorine to the tank and still am getting no reading.

So, I am really confused about the readings and would like some guidance. Here are some of the things I think could be affecting the readings/results.

Low PH - I am not sure if this cheap pool test kit will properly show chlorine level at 5.5-6.0 PH

Free Chlorine - Because I am having tank algae problems I am wondering if there is not enough free chlorine in the water and this may be affecting the readings.

Chlorine exhausted - When I flushed the plants I may have flushed enough algae to use up the available chlorine in the water (although I should have seen a reading this morning after adding chlorine if this was true unless I didnt kill all of it).

Do you have any suggestions about what other tests or experiments I should do to understand what is going on here?
 

fatman7574

New Member
Let me make a few corrections. I think I confused things, or made them confusing some whare in my prevoiys disussion about diluting the Chlorox. If using full strength clorox that is approx 5.5 to 6.0 strength you need to add 4 drops per gallon to provide 2 ppm of chlorine. So basically 1/4 teaspons for each 5 gallons. If you chlorox is 12% then 1/4 teaspoon per every 10 gallons of water. After the first two days ot three drop down to 0.5 ppm per day. That means a 1/4 teaspon per each 20 gallons of a 5 to 6% solution and half that for a 12% solutions. I know several people who have recently used some very large doses of chlorine and there palnts handled it well. They both added about 1 teaspoon per gallon to their reservoirs for several days in a row.


When You add chlorine to water you end up with two chlorines; hypochlorous acid HOCL and OCl-. At a pH of arounf 5.5 over 95% of the chlorine will be in the form of HOCL. With a swimming pool the pH is kept high at 7.2 to 7.6. At 7.2 the percentages of HOCL and OCl- are an equal 50%. At a pH of 7.6 OCl- is about 75%. It is hard telling what the pH of either of your solutions were or even what the pool test kit is supposed to detect. All free chlorine, just OCL- or HOCl? Ideally with well aerated RO water the pH would be 7.0 so the chlorine woud be a 50% , 50% mix. If you add that same chlorine to a reservoir containing nutrients the chlorine will be mainly HOCL-. Depending on the amount of dead organics the level of readale chlorine will vary. The more dead organics the more chlorine will be used to immediattely oxidize the dead organics and the lower amount of free chlorine that a test kit will indicate.
 

NLXSK1

Well-Known Member
From previous experience the pool kits test only free chlorine. How high a PPM will harm the plants?

And yes, the RO water tests at less than 50ppm and is 7.0.
 

fatman7574

New Member
Just throw in an airstone and within a few days it will be down to zero. I have seen mj growing in water with a ppm of almost 100. Figure the guys that dumped in a teaspoon per gallon were dumping in 75 drops and ever 2 drp ops is a ppm. That means they dumped in enough to add 36 ppm per day. Im sure that amount oxidized all the dead roots and the anerobic bacteria. Their plants recovered enough from root rot to go another 3 or 4 weeks to finish budding. There is at least one other person who used 1 teaspoon per f gallon in his reservoir that did so in just the last week or so, for at laest a few days in a row. Last I heard the plants are doing fine.
 

NLXSK1

Well-Known Member
I am willing to bet that the PH is screwing up the reading on the cheap pool test kit. It was only designed to test water between 6.8 & 8.2.

Good info on the toxicity, I was shocked to find out my water readings were 2-4PPM out of the tap... More shocked to find the PPM between 800-900. Hence the RO system.

I will just add 2ml per day for a while and if algae shows up increase that as necessary in a 30 gallon tank. That is 30 drops for 30 gallons should be about 1 ppm. No need to shock them ;]
 

fatman7574

New Member
Tap water at anywhere between 0.5 and 4 ppm is normal. Usually it is about 4 ppm near yhe water treatment plants or very near the mail distric bution lines and nearer 0.5 ppm (the minimum desireable) at the furthest points from the water treatment plant. They usually test the water at the employees bath room at the treatment plant (high reading) and once a month test at some point near the end of their water lines (low reading).
 

csharper

Well-Known Member
Hi fatman, a few questions to further the discussion:

0.) You say to change the res every week, but it stands to reason that there is a holy grail nutrient ratio:reservoir size:plant volume which could alleviate this for 90ish days. As in the plants eat pretty much exactly what you put in... Or do you think it is impossible to have a "stable" and "perfect feed ratio" solution?

1.) Is it 3:1:2 n:p2o5:k20 or 3:1:2 npk? Isn't this a ratio for soil?

2.) I ask because your formulas are ~3:1:3 npk - about which:
a.) 1P really needed for hydro? Is this much P really used by cannabis?
b.) 2->3K why?
c.) Or are these numbers because of the effects on the solution, not for the plant's consumption?

3.) Your opinion of "msu magic" orchid pure water mix (greencare, knockoffs) for recirculating hydro? What am I overlooking and why does nobody use this for cannabis?

At about your N level:

Nitrogen N Total 261.6
Phosphorus P 25.9
Potassium K 246.7
Magnesium Mg 39.6
Sulfur S 1.8
Calcium Ca 158.5
Iron Fe 3.56671
Boron B 0.39630
Manganese Mn 1.78336
Zinc Zn 0.79260
Molybdenum Mo 0.39630
Copper Cu 0.79260

Components: boric acid, calcium nitrate, copper sulfate, iron EDTA, magnesium nitrate, manganese sulfate, potassium nitrate, potassium phosphate, sodium molybdate, zinc sulfate.

Nitrogen (Nitrate 12.5%)
(Ammoniacal 0.7%) 13.00%
Phosphorus (as P2O5) 3.00%
Potassium (as K2O) 15.00%
Calcium 8.00%
Magnesium 2.00%
Iron 0.18%
Manganese 0.09%
Sulfur 0.09%
Zinc 0.04%
Copper 0.04%
Boron 0.02%
Molybdenum 0.02%

http://www.staugorchidsociety.org/PDF/IPAFinal.pdf from http://www.staugorchidsociety.org/culturewater.htm
(or is this "just for orchids")

4.) Relating to above formula, is there anything to be said for moderation in the micros, especially in a recirculating reservoir where this forumula could potentially eliminate the possibility of buildups?

5.) GH Maxigro, this stuff is your formula/ratio for all intents and purposes, right? What is wrong with this stuff other than price and dyes and 15% of N as ammonium?

At Your N level:
Nitrogen N Total 264.2
Phosphorus P 57.6
Potassium K 307.0
Magnesium Mg 52.8
Sulfur S 79.3
Calcium Ca 158.5
Iron Fe 3.17041
Boron B 0.00000
Manganese Mn 1.32100

http://generalhydroponics.com/genhydro_US/product_labels/maxigro_1.5lb.pdf

6.) quoting you: "the actual recommended calcium to nitrogen ratio for MJ is 0.8-1", source please?

7.) And yet, many or all of your formulas have more Ca than N, almost ratio in reverse? And you complained of too much sulfur.. So why not add magnesium nitrate and lower calcium nitrate and epsom? Curious, help me learn.
 

fatman7574

New Member
Hi fatman, a few questions to further the discussion:

0.) You say to change the res every week, but it stands to reason that there is a holy grail nutrient ratio:reservoir size:plant volume which could alleviate this for 90ish days. Doesn't and can't exist. As in the plants eat pretty much exactly what you put in... Not really that simple. Lots of buffering going on due to constant pH changes, continula changes in water dissolved CO2 and temperatures. Yet alone plants do not reallt take up slats and metals in the ratios they use them, store them or incorporate them into their tissues. Or do you think it is impossible to have a "stable" and "perfect feed ratio" solution? Impossible pretty much covers it. My self I only grow drain to waste, but unless you mix your own nutrients or buy preweighedsak lts that couldget exopnsive especially if ignorantly buying and using AN. A recirculatory reservoir is the bottom end production practice of commercial green house operators with a 50% to 100% mark up, it is sad it is the most commonly used practice by growers of that can have marks up of 5000% or more. Sad really.

1.) Is it 3:1:2 n:p2o5:k20 or 3:1:2 npk? Isn't this a ratio for soil? Actually that ratio is pretty much more of a budding ratio than a veg but I find very little need for nuch difference between veg and bloom ecxcept a higher phosphorus and calcium in veg and a higher nitrogen Potasisum and iron in bloom. It is the ration of a populra outdoor soil nutrient from Dyna-Gro. Unlessyou are using an automatic pH controller 24/7 I would not use any Dtna-Gro "hydroponic" nutrients for indoor mj grows.

2.) I ask because your formulas are ~3:1:3 npk - about which:
a.) 1P really needed for hydro? More actually if growing by recirculating reservoir especially if you are growing with no or neraly no ammomium nitrogen. Is this much P really used by cannabis? NO. Those formulations are for recirculating reservirs. The palnts seldom need that level of phosphorus but phosphorus is aused as a buffer in recirculatory resvervoirs sio there is a higher need that just the plant uptake need. It is not even possible to put in all the phosphorus that will be needed with a recirculating resrvoir that is not changed out. The phosphorus is toxic at such high levels.
b.) 2->3K why? Because I use dilute(low EC) formulations and low levels of most trace nutrients. I do not suggest anyone use nutrients at the full strength IE diluted 100 to 1, but weaker. I catually use mine very, very weak. 350 to 650 ppm for drain to waste.

Here is an example of the N,P,K,Ca,M,S ratios of a Indica Bud tissue sample. Nutrient formulas are based upon these type ratios with an increase in the buffers when formulating nutrients for recirculation resrvoirs.
N=3.75, P=0.8, K=4.2, Ca=1.5, Mg=0.35, S=0.3. So lets consider N as . This means the ratios are N:(3/30=1, P(0.8/3)=0.27, K:(4.2/3)=1.4 Therefore 1:0.27:1.4

c.) Or are these numbers because of the effects on the solution, not for the plant's consumption? Bingo!!!!!

3.) Your opinion of "msu magic" orchid pure water mix (greencare, knockoffs) for recirculating hydro? What am I overlooking and why does nobody use this for cannabis? The main problem is as with Dyna-Gro. Way to much ammonium nitrogen proportionally. Years of pot growing indoors has repeatedly show that the ammonium nitrogen hould only comprise 15% or lessof the total nitroge, They typicallly use 30% to 100% ammonium nitrogen. Ammonium cause low pH, works best at low temps and low lighting. Many even use urea.

At about your N level: N:(2.6/2.6)=1, P:(0.26/2.6)= 0.10, K:(2.5/2.6)= 0.96 IE 1:0.10:0.96

Nitrogen N Total 261.6
Phosphorus P 25.9
Potassium K 246.7
Magnesium Mg 39.6
Sulfur S 1.8
Calcium Ca 158.5
Iron Fe 3.56671
Boron B 0.39630
Manganese Mn 1.78336
Zinc Zn 0.79260
Molybdenum Mo 0.39630
Copper Cu 0.79260

Components: boric acid, calcium nitrate, copper sulfate, iron EDTA, magnesium nitrate, manganese sulfate, potassium nitrate, potassium phosphate, sodium molybdate, zinc sulfate.

Nitrogen (Nitrate 12.5%)
(Ammoniacal 0.7%) 13.00%
Phosphorus (as P2O5) 3.00%
Potassium (as K2O) 15.00%
Calcium 8.00%
Magnesium 2.00%
Iron 0.18%
Manganese 0.09%
Sulfur 0.09%
Zinc 0.04%
Copper 0.04%
Boron 0.02%
Molybdenum 0.02%

Ratios N: (25.5/25.5)=1. P: (3/25.5)=0.12, K=(15/25.5)= 0.59 IE 1:0.12:0.59

http://www.staugorchidsociety.org/PDF/IPAFinal.pdf from http://www.staugorchidsociety.org/culturewater.htm
(or is this "just for orchids")

4.) Relating to above formula, is there anything to be said for moderation in the micros, especially in a recirculating reservoir where this forumula could potentially eliminate the possibility of buildups? The formula would definitely have to be diluted over 200 or 300 to 1 (one) or more so the trace nutrients will be no higher than ith most mj specific nutrient formulas. Other than the fact that pH flucuations due to the high levels of ammmight be a problem it is a fine formulation.

5.) GH Maxigro, this stuff is your formula/ratio for all intents and purposes, right? What is wrong with this stuff other than price and dyes and 15% of N as ammonium? No I use my own formulations based upon tissue samples and testing discharged nutrient water. I post other formulations because people want to see them and should see them to help them to see that it is not rocket science.

At Your N level:
Nitrogen N Total 264.2
Phosphorus P 57.6
Potassium K 307.0
Magnesium Mg 52.8
Sulfur S 79.3
Calcium Ca 158.5
Iron Fe 3.17041
Boron B 0.00000
Manganese Mn 1.321

http://generalhydroponics.com/genhydro_US/product_labels/maxigro_1.5lb.pdf

6.) quoting you: "the actual recommended calcium to nitrogen ratio for MJ is 0.8-1", source please? Suntec in New Zealand. They are top of the field (private) in the world and have been for quite some time.

7.) And yet, many or all of your formulas have more Ca than N, almost ratio in reverse? Beacuse they are formulations for recirculating reservoirs where the first mineral tied up in buffer compounds is calcium. And you complained of too much sulfur.. Where do I do that. Sulfur can be used at very low rates but it is OK to use at rates of up to twice the ratio of Phosphorus. So why not add magnesium nitrate (expensive in the U.S.) and lower calcium nitrate and epsom (they are both cheap and very soluble) ? Curious, help me learn.
fatman Bloom Drain to Waste

Nitrogen 400
Phosphorus 100
Potassium 449
Magnesium 50
Calcium 125
Sulfur 66
Iron 10.00
Manganese 5.00
Boron 5.00
Zinc 5.00
Copper 1.00
Molybdenum .09

Ounces

Part A
Calcium Nitrate 8.3
Potassium Nitrate 7.6
Ammonium Nitrate 4.4
Iron Chelate 1.35

Part B
Potassium Nitrate 7.6
MonoPotassium Phosphate .1
Magnesium Sulfate 6.7
MonoAmmonium Phosphate 6.0
Manganese Sulfate .269
Boric Acid / Solubor .368
Zinc Sulfate .291
Copper Sulfate .059
Ammonium Molybdate .013
Volume of Stock Solutions 1
Dilution Rate 100
EC 2.37
TDS 1650
Salt weight 3244 mg/L

Yes, There is a high percentage of ammonum nitrogen in the formulation. It matters not though because the nutrient is drain to waste so it matters not what the pH is of the nutrient water is that is being discard. It will not affect the reservoir as it does not drain bachk to the resrvoir.
 

Black Thumb

Well-Known Member
Hey fatman Would you be able to post a revised formula replacing the ammonium molydbate with the sodium molydbate.

Some of your ingredients are .002 or .059 are these micro grams?
Will i need to purchase a scale that can measure lower then a gram ?

Thanks for your time and knowledge!
 

Black Thumb

Well-Known Member
Got another question do you reccomend adding supplements or hormones,additives,stimulants,enzymes or someting to the final batch or seperately for greater results ?

If so are there any specifically you might reccomend ?
 

fatman7574

New Member
.002 was a mistake, it is suppose to be 0.013 and those measurements are in ounces not grams. Multiply each number by 28.35 for a measurement in grams. ie 0.013 oumces equals (0.013 * 28.35) = 0.369 or 369 milligrams. Commonly a metric scale will weight to 0.1 or 0.01 or larger. So 0.4 or 0.37 is close enough. Even using a gram scale for that smallest , measurement will be fine. Just measure a gram and use about half of the gram. All the other measurement are larger than a gram. There is ammonium molybdate on ebay it is just under another name. Many chemicals are often litsed listed under several different names.
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=Molybdic+acid&_sacat=See-All-Categories
 
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