Making Tea - is EZ.... & Cheap !

slipperyP said:

This is my first grow and Im only using SPT. I am thinking of using the other products...What are the musts to know about BMO products?

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You are going to need to use more than just the SPT. You will need some kind of good organic "grow" and organic "flower" nute unless you have a "super soil" that all the kids rave about now a days. BMO has both of them, they are well worth it. My last grow I used the whole BMO line. SPT is just that, a tonic, not a nutrient.

Also, can you bubble your tea for about 4 days and it will still be good? Just as long as it has been bubbling the entire time?

to serve man said:

You are going to need to use more than just the SPT. You will need some kind of good organic "grow" and organic "flower" nute unless you have a "super soil" that all the kids rave about now a days. BMO has both of them, they are well worth it. My last grow I used the whole BMO line. SPT is just that, a tonic, not a nutrient.

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My bad...Im using SPT...as the only BMO product...I am also using bat guano's and worm castings and molasses. Next time I was thinking of ordering the other bottles that I saw when I ordered these.

slipperyP said:

My bad...Im using SPT...as the only BMO product...I am also using bat guano's and worm castings and molasses. Next time I was thinking of ordering the other bottles that I saw when I ordered these.

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Oh! Yeah dude, the BMO is solid stuff. The pic in my avatar is of an entire BMO grow (Grow, Flower, SPT, Alaska MorBloom 0-10-10, & Blackstrap Molasses). With a 14 day flush, those girls were tasty meds!

I;m using the same nute line for my current grow as well. They are only 2 1/2 weeks into vegging, but already looking tight, just from the soil.

to serve man said:

Oh! Yeah dude, the BMO is solid stuff. The pic in my avatar is of an entire BMO grow (Grow, Flower, SPT, Alaska MorBloom 0-10-10, & Blackstrap Molasses). With a 14 day flush, those girls were tasty meds!

I;m using the same nute line for my current grow as well. They are only 2 1/2 weeks into vegging, but already looking tight, just from the soil.

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Do you think a 14 day flush is necessary? I would really like to have a one week flush and a few days to dry out? Im in week 5 of my first crop so I got a minute to think about it and do some research.

2 weeks (14 days) is pretty standard flushing time, it makes sure that the plants use up ALL of the nutrients left in the soil. If your plants leaves are pretty yellow when harvesting, all the nutrients are out. A good test that I used to use, but not anymore just because, is snap off a leaf branch and taste it. If it tastes clean and like water, than all the nutes are out. A week is an okay flush time if you are in a hurry, but I would suggest at least 14 days to get primo dankness. You don't want to do all that work during growing, and then not give the plant a proper flush and have it spark and burn slow and uneven.

I know people that don't do any flush on their plants, because they assume that since its organic it doesn't need to be. I don't know if thats true or not, but I do know that these same peoples weed don't burn as smooth as a proper flushed plant, and they don't taste as clean. Even though I only grow 100% organic dank, I still flush, just because of this. Nutrients are nutrients, wether organic or toxic sludge.

I have an update, one that I am sad to report.

I used a very basic tea just to kick start my outdoor plant with a boost of N. I mixed bat guano and fish emulsion, let sit in a container for 2 days, I didn't have a pump going so I just shook it a few times.

When I applied it, it smelled very fishy... this would be my undoing. Although it was in a fenced in area, my plant was dug up by some evil creature out there, trying to find the fish.

My plant is still alive, but was completely removed from the ground. I replanted and gave it some water, I pray that she will take hold and make it.

I am going to get an air pump and let it run a little be longer than before, next time I will make sure that it does not smell like fish before using. I have heard that worm casings can help mask it, I sure hope so.

KeYz said:

I have an update, one that I am sad to report.

I used a very basic tea just to kick start my outdoor plant with a boost of N. I mixed bat guano and fish emulsion, let sit in a container for 2 days, I didn't have a pump going so I just shook it a few times.

When I applied it, it smelled very fishy... this would be my undoing. Although it was in a fenced in area, my plant was dug up by some evil creature out there, trying to find the fish.

My plant is still alive, but was completely removed from the ground. I replanted and gave it some water, I pray that she will take hold and make it.

I am going to get an air pump and let it run a little be longer than before, next time I will make sure that it does not smell like fish before using. I have heard that worm casings can help mask it, I sure hope so.

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KeYz.... When growing outdoors, the scent of anything that attracts armadillos, racoons or opposums is the cause of much grief : avoid blood meal (period), bone meal, fish meal / emulsion or rabbit manure on the surface (if they are within 4 inches of the surface - you've got problems).
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Bat guano will not attract these pests, neither will worm castings, well aged compost, or teas brewed for a week (until they smell earthy).
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Just be aware, if you are using molasses in your teas to feed the micro-life, it attracts earthworms in your soil later, earthworms are tasty treats for armadillos...etc....
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Putting chicken wire or metal mesh wire, just below the surface is a good deterent. Make sure, it's in two pieces, not a single piece with a hole in the center.... or a armadillo may just hook it with one front paw and back up quickly - causing the wire to cut your plant at the base.
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Larger flat rocks, arranged around the base help also, just make sure they don't stand out (strange color that does not blend in...etc). I lay leaves on these rocks, then spray paint (lightly) them with brown & or cream colored spray paint. Then crumble up oak leaves and sprinkle them on the rocks. They stick like glue and help the rocks to blend into the terrain.
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Sprinkling moth ball crystals, two feet out from your plants (minimum) keeps most pests away. This only last for two or three light rains, then has to be replaced. Coyote piss works very well and can be bought online at different hunting / game outfitters.
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Hope this helps....
Keep it Real....Organic....
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Thanks you Osho for the info thus far.

Bump it up with PH balance methods or if it is necessary with teas.

Slab said:

Thanks you Osho for the info thus far.

Bump it up with PH balance methods or if it is necessary with teas.

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Slab.... You are welcome. With Organic Fertilizer Teas, pH will drift over time. The key is knowing your ingredients.
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Most sources of Nitrogen tend to be acidic, most sources of P & K tend to be alkaline. After a tea has been brewing for 24 hours, the pH will have changed by a point on average, sometimes two.
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The pH of the water you start with also influences the pH.
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If your tea is between 5 and 7 on the pH scale, no need to worry about adjusting it. That will take place naturally in the soil.
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That being said, if your soil was running a bit high, like 7 or above, you would want a tea closer to the 5 pH mark. Adding a 7 to 7 will not help. But on the other hand, if your soil was say 5.8 pH, adding a tea with a pH of 7 would help.
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The key is seek balance, shoot for middle of the road numbers, make all adjustments in small increments. Low, Slow & Steady.....
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Hope this helps.....
Keep it Real....Organic....
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Hello oshogreen

I am now on my third grow the first two were hydro (jus wasnt for me i guess) and now i went with soil. I have a 4 week old skunk plant in some ocean forest and i want to go organic with some tea as nutes and have a worm farm also. My main question is i want to have both worm farm and tea buckets outside im in central texas so it can get pretty hot will the heat effect the two?

THe heat will affect the worm farm, keep them moist or inside if yu can but the heat should actually be ok for tea making. Yes, bacteria respond well to a little warmth, I think over a 100 starts to push it. Common sense. Lol. Remeber if yu brew a tea to keep it aerobic after 24 hours to add a tbsp of molasses or so a day for every couple of gallons of water. Not really worth it, to keep a tea. Remember if it stinks it is poison.

okay thanks i was readin into just a compost pile but i am a lil confused i know like grass veggies and manure go in the pile but do i also keep dirt in it like a pile of dirt with the trash with it or jus trash and manure

That was one bad-ass answer. Wow!
+Rep for you, good sir!

Ohsogreen said:

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Billdo... That is an excellant question. I asked the guy who invented the stuff, basically the same thing.
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He explained, they control all aspects of the production, using certain temps, certain pressures, and only a few very specific bacteria / fungi strains.
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During the process, they inject dead anaerobic bacteria into their mix. This causes the good bacteria to excrete some kind of substance to combact the bad, anaerobic bacteria, but since they are already dead, the stuff stays in suspension.
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Later they pastuerize the mix, and add only certain other bacteria / fungi. The fungi stay dormant until they come in contact with a substance only excreted by the roots of plants. The bacteria, stay dormant, because they are in this large volume of this excreted substance that was used to combat (the already dead) bad, anaerobic bacteria.
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It's pretty amazing how they manipulate the solution the bacteria / fungi are in. Beyond that, he said " Trade Secrets, Sorry ".
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I wish I had the receipe, I wonder if they keep it in a safe ? I wonder if their dog knows it, like the Bush Beans pooch......
Anyway, that's part of the reason why, I don't know the rest..... Trade Secrets......
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Keep it Real.....Organic....
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Oshogreen, I have read pretty much every page of this thread....you have been more than kind with spreading your knowledge of the organics with all of us.

I have one question for you.

At what week of flowering do you stop giving any teas/nutrients and just start giving it plain ol' water to finish on say an 8 week strain?

I know you said you like to let them coast and use up all the nutes the last few weeks, but is it 2 or 3 weeks?

Thanks again daddio.

The last two weeks of flowering is when you just give straight water. Do a flush at about week 6 on an 8 week plant, then just straight water the rest until harvest.

to serve man said:

The last two weeks of flowering is when you just give straight water. Do a flush at about week 6 on an 8 week plant, then just straight water the rest until harvest.

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to serve man,

thank you sir for your quick response...I figured 2 weeks was good enough

ttumaddawg said:

Oshogreen, I have read pretty much every page of this thread....you have been more than kind with spreading your knowledge of the organics with all of us.

I have one question for you.

At what week of flowering do you stop giving any teas/nutrients and just start giving it plain ol' water to finish on say an 8 week strain?

I know you said you like to let them coast and use up all the nutes the last few weeks, but is it 2 or 3 weeks?

Thanks again daddio.

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TtumadDawg.... I discontinue any fertilizer teas, the last two weeks,,on eight week strains. During those last two weeks, it's just plain water only.
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Hope this helps....
Keep it Real...Organic....
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http://www.plantstogrow.com/Botany/Workshop_notes/Notes/Organic%20sources%20of%20NPK.pdf

Thought people might find this interesting and hopefully somewhat useful. It shows a whole list of organic substances and their NPK values. It also lists some important trace elements and gives organic sources for them as well.

*But be careful. Just use this as a guide for NPK. Some of these organic substances can have negative effects on a plant's growth due to their properties not listed. For example, while Wood ash is a great source of Potassium (potash), it can raise the pH drastically if used improperly. So do some research on the sources you intend to use.

Sorry. But I just found this site and think it is way more helpful than the one I previously listed. Check it out.

NPK Charts - Organic Fertilizers and Soil Amendments For Marijuana Cannabis Plants

Also, quick question. Does anyone here use Mycorrhizae? I know that BMO nutes contain it and I was wondering what the best way is to incorporate it into my soil. Should I add to tea or simply mix in with soil? BTW I am talking about the pellets.