Master growers please answer only

Hey I just pulled too early! :wall:

Never again. The buds are hard, springy and dense. They taste great. Smell great. Smokes great.

Best mid I've ever smoked :dunce:
What's the Safest time to pull you think? 90-95% cloudy and 5-10% amber and just make sure it's not anything less right? As for the denseness if the plant isnt stressed i.e. nutrient deficiencies or burns etc then plants should have normal fluffiness or denseness based on genes from my knowledge.
 
Last edited:
Reeders I’m not concerned with most of them pull too early. I’ll be competing I’ve done some in Clio Mi. however winner a cup doesn’t make someone a master either. Someone that claims they are a master means they have nothing more to learn Resulting in losing the compassion for the plant.
Good luck with the competition lad. Also quick personal question, why not use npm deep red light WITH the 3000k for flowering? I just read 3500 is good for broad spectrum if you grow both veg and flowering together but flowering only 3000k is best and some people prefer that because it still veg's well. Why not add a 3500k with the 3000k and a deep red light for ripening week ? Do you not have the time or funds because you do it on a commerical level and are trying to be more efficient? Or do you believe it's not good to combine different lights?Just curious man would love a response. I heard more lights the better. I know red light obviously inhibits germination so that would be one of the only exceptions but it's a ripening light for a reason.
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
knew michael cannabis, great guy. drowned in a cal-mag tank in 1999. family was sad. we still used the cal-mag and had the biggest yields ever that year. wish he was still around.
I worked with him in a PK boost mine for a couple of years. He worked hard and played harder. His wife gave me his watering wand after the accident and I still use it to this day.
 

crimsonecho

Well-Known Member
I worked with him in a PK boost mine for a couple of years. He worked hard and played harder. His wife gave me his watering wand after the accident and I still use it to this day.
good old michael cannabis, loved a good watering wand almost as much as he loved working in that pk boost mine and flushing. the image of him running water at 10x volume of the pot through his medium brings tears to my eyes. farewell sweet prince and rest easy you are missed here everyday.
 

lusidghost

Well-Known Member
good old michael cannabis, loved a good watering wand almost as much as he loved working in that pk boost mine and flushing. the image of him running water at 10x volume of the pot through his medium brings tears to my eyes. farewell sweet prince and rest easy you are missed here everyday.
My eyes are flushing right now, bro. Hugs. RIP MC. Gone but not forgotten.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
not anymore. that was 15+ years ago.
How come no more? Because you use LED now? I just got a 600W 10K last summer and only used it a bit last grow so not sure if I've seen any difference. Had it on for the last 3 weeks. Hortilux SHPS for most of the flowering in 400, 600 or 1000W.

:peace:
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
Good luck with the competition lad. Also quick personal question, why not use npm deep red light WITH the 3000k for flowering? I just read 3500 is good for broad spectrum if you grow both veg and flowering together but flowering only 3000k is best and some people prefer that because it still veg's well. Why not add a 3500k with the 3000k and a deep red light for ripening week ? Do you not have the time or funds because you do it on a commerical level and are trying to be more efficient? Or do you believe it's not good to combine different lights?Just curious man would love a response. I heard more lights the better. I know red light obviously inhibits germination so that would be one of the only exceptions but it's a ripening light for a reason.
I have the funds and the time. Just not worth it imo. I have lights of all kinds and I just stick with what I have no need to over complicate things. More light is good but I keep it to 50-55 watts a sqft anything more will simply cause issues. Plus cooling is always a factor and I built the rooms with 15 tons of cooling each. Well most of them some have 10 tons.
 

.Smoke

Well-Known Member
I have the funds and the time. Just not worth it imo. I have lights of all kinds and I just stick with what I have no need to over complicate things. More light is good but I keep it to 50-55 watts a sqft anything more will simply cause issues. Plus cooling is always a factor and I built the rooms with 15 tons of cooling each. Well most of them some have 10 tons.
So you're running 50-55w/sqft led in your facility?

If that's the case, with the constant stream of dank pictures you post I guess that means it's time for me to turn up my drivers...
 
I have the funds and the time. Just not worth it imo. I have lights of all kinds and I just stick with what I have no need to over complicate things. More light is good but I keep it to 50-55 watts a sqft anything more will simply cause issues. Plus cooling is always a factor and I built the rooms with 15 tons of cooling each. Well most of them some have 10 tons.
Roger that. Not trying to reinvent the wheel so I'll just take your methods out for a test drive when I get to a commercial level. Maybe use a range of diverse lights only for my personal grows. Also, I heard cedarwood is bad for walling material for growing due to moisture not fairing well with it. Not sure if you have an opinion on the best materials to use for walls in grow rooms? Also do you cut CO2 completely off during lights out? I know to bring it down to like 600ppm during ripening week I read. Just wanted your thoughts.
 
Last edited:
Top