Mr Nice :: From Seed (California Bean Bank) :: 600 WHPS

G13 X Hash Aka MR. Nice. Grown under 250 watt metal halide for their vegetative states, and 600 watt hps for their flowering cycles. They are almost done, approximately four weeks left.

Here the Re Cap:

2 weeks from seedling:





4 Weeks from seedling




7 Weeks from seedling


Some Clones taken at 7 wks (sorry no closer detail on those atm (i will update soon))


Week 3 Flower



Week 5 Flower




Closer on Wk5 Flower

Now that a journal thats not hard to follow or read

+REP

I took pollen from a male Mr nice plant (not shown) and placed it on a lower branch of a clone received from a club with a q-tip. I did this only as an experiment, I don't think the purple bubba clone is very good quality.



I learned how to do this from another thread I had read

written by fdd2blk https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/20319-seed-production-tutorial.html

Both plants are getting the same nutes, they are at different times though throughout the flowering cycle. I have taken pictures of the tops of the nicest colas of the plants.

This first one I did NOT give bud blood and it is at 5 weeks 6 days !


This second one I did give bud Blood. it is at 4 weeks 3 days!


could it really possibly be just from the budblood? what do you guys think. every other environmental or nutrient variable was exactly the same.

These are images of week 7:

Lookin good man. Try flushing the blood bud one with molasses and the other without and see if there is even more of a difference. I believe the bud blood could be responsible for the difference. Keep it up!

It is week 8 for one of the plants. The buds are very light, and sticky, and pretty frosty. Not yet mature ( not many amber trichs).






----------------------------
Week 6 plant

For Comparison here is a plant that is two weeks behind from the same batch of seeds, however, I fed this plant bud blood in the first week of flowering and the differences when compared with the appearance from the 8 week plant makes me think that is more of a phenotypic difference, than a difference created solely by the application of "Bud Blood". The nugs are very dense, and are almost at full maturity (trichs are slowly becoming amber)

I am curious to know if anyone else has done any side by side comparisons with 'Bud Blood', and if the type of difference I found was shared by anyone else. I have also recently purchased 'Atami - Bloombastic' and I am trying it on another mr nice plant that is at 5 weeks , but that one was fed bud blood as well at week1 of 12/12.

It is now time to think about harvesting. The plants have had their main leaves removed, and are now sitting in darkness for roughly 48 hours before I cut them down and hang them up.

The plant that received 1 dose of bud blood is now finished 10 days earlier than the other. Here are up close comparison shots (these are two different plants):
No bud blood( 60 days of 12/12)


1 dose of Bud blood (50 days of 12/12)


The plant which received no bud blood looks like this:
1. Before major fan leaves were trimmed:

2. After the major leaves were removed:

3. Nug Shot


The plant which received Bud Blood looks like this:
1. Before major fan leaves were trimmed:

2. After the major leaves were removed:

3. Nug Shots:

I welcome comments and questions now.

mrblixa said:

I welcome comments and questions now.

Click to expand...

hey blix that looks like sum good shit the 1 u fed bud blood looks like its got more trichs on it all looks nice wot was the smoke like? il rep ya if i canras

as seen in pic number 3 ,you dont use HPS lights in the veg!!! mybee that's the problem! my plants look with 23days 3x bigger! i use 600watt HPS sylvania gro-lux light! from the beginning!
PEACE!

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/186798-dutch-passion-euforia-vs-green.html

No I dont use HPS for veg and the reason why is, I’ve read that Correlated Color Temperature is variable that has to do with photosynthesis. It is a system used to determine the color temperature given off by light. CCT is measured in Kelvin’s (K). The average CCT of Direct Daylight 5500K.

A 400W MH lamp provides a CCT of about 4000K. The magic number for the vegetative phase is between 3-5000K. A 400W HPS lamp provides a cct of about 2200K. The magic number for the flowering phase is between 1800-3000k.

Ras, the nugs were hung on string today. I figure I have a week before I will put them into paper bags.

rasclot said:

hey blix that looks like sum good shit the 1 u fed bud blood looks like its got more trichs on it all looks nice wot was the smoke like? il rep ya if i canras

Click to expand...

mrblixa said:

No I dont use HPS for veg and the reason why is, I’ve read that Correlated Color Temperature is variable that has to do with photosynthesis. It is a system used to determine the color temperature given off by light. CCT is measured in Kelvin’s (K). The average CCT of Direct Daylight 5500K.

A 400W MH lamp provides a CCT of about 4000K. The magic number for the vegetative phase is between 3-5000K. A 400W HPS lamp provides a cct of about 2200K. The magic number for the flowering phase is between 1800-3000k.

Click to expand...

you are talking shit soon
HPS GRO-LUX from SYLVANIA has both spectrums! blue & red



Proven performer



The Sodium Grolux Lamp has been specifically developed for horticultural applications and optimum plant growth. Effectively the same as a normal sodium lamp, Grolux lamps have been colour adjusted to provide a much broader spectrum of light (notably in the blue spectrum) which makes them perform exceptionally well in both the vegetative and flowering stages. We really rate this bulb which is why it is supplied with every single one of our 400 Watt and 600 Watt and 1000 Watt Light Systems. Not only that, our Grolux prices are the cheapest in the UK and represent the best value growing lamp available.

TONYJEJO said:

you are talking shit soon
HPS GRO-LUX from SYLVANIA has both spectrums! blue & red



Proven performer

The Sodium Grolux Lamp has been specifically developed for horticultural applications and optimum plant growth. Effectively the same as a normal sodium lamp, Grolux lamps have been colour adjusted to provide a much broader spectrum of light (notably in the blue spectrum) which makes them perform exceptionally well in both the vegetative and flowering stages. We really rate this bulb which is why it is supplied with every single one of our 400 Watt and 600 Watt and 1000 Watt Light Systems. Not only that, our Grolux prices are the cheapest in the UK and represent the best value growing lamp available.

Click to expand...

Thanks for visiting this thread.
1. What is the CCT of your GROLUX Bulb? since you failed to post this I researched it for you:
Product Information
Abbrev. With Packaging Info. F20T12GROAQWSRP 6/CS 1/SKU
Actual Length (in) 23.78
Actual Length (mm) 604.0
Average Rated Life (hr) 9000
Base Medium Bipin
Bulb T12
Color Rendering Index (CRI) 89
Color Temperature/CCT (K) 3400
Diameter (in) 1.59
Diameter (mm) 40.4
Industry Standards ANSI C78.406 - 1972
Initial Lumens at 25C 750
Nominal Length (in) 24
Nominal Wattage (W) 20.00
2. you can grow a weed plant with a 150w incandescent, or with a 1000watt hps it doesn't change the fact that a metal halide bulb will fall in a more blue range on the spectrum than a HPS which will fall in the more red, and that daylight falls in a more blue range (5500k).
3.THIS HAS MORE RED AND SO IT IS BETTER FOR FLOWERING.

So I just moved the nugs from hangin in the closet to paper bags after only 5 days (they seemed to be getting crispy @ the tips already) .



I made brownies from solely my phase #1 trimmings (all the leaves which I could see their stems), which got me and my friends very high after we smoked blunts all day of 'blue dream' and 'OG'. I have a little more trimming to do.



This is from the one plant that had no bud blood it is so sticky, and all those oils, mmm it looks so beautiful I want to wear it on my neck So i can be frosty like Tpain.:
I don't have a scale, does this look like a good yield?

Hey Ras, when did you start sampling your Blue Cheese?

mrblixa said:

Thanks for visiting this thread.
1. What is the CCT of your GROLUX Bulb? since you failed to post this I researched it for you:
Product Information
Abbrev. With Packaging Info. F20T12GROAQWSRP 6/CS 1/SKU
Actual Length (in) 23.78
Actual Length (mm) 604.0
Average Rated Life (hr) 9000
Base Medium Bipin
Bulb T12
Color Rendering Index (CRI) 89
Color Temperature/CCT (K) 3400
Diameter (in) 1.59
Diameter (mm) 40.4
Industry Standards ANSI C78.406 - 1972
Initial Lumens at 25C 750
Nominal Length (in) 24
Nominal Wattage (W) 20.00
2. you can grow a weed plant with a 150w incandescent, or with a 1000watt hps it doesn't change the fact that a metal halide bulb will fall in a more blue range on the spectrum than a HPS which will fall in the more red, and that daylight falls in a more blue range (5500k).
3.THIS HAS MORE RED AND SO IT IS BETTER FOR FLOWERING.

Click to expand...

MY FRIEND HAS TRIED MH AND HPS IN THE VEG! MH is shit in comparison to HPS-Sylvania gro-lux [YOU MUST FIRST TRY IT,THEN YOU CAN SAY IT SON]

Tony, I don't want to get off on a tangent to far so ill just say I don't even use Metal Halide for 18/6 veg any more. So I wont be switching to the grolux light bulb. I use a T5 flouro which I learned that for my situation works better than an HID. I swapped a HPS bulb in the 250 watt and use it as supplemental lighting in the 12/12 room along with a UVB lamp.

I rolled up a blunt this morning. It still has much longer to cure, but it was dry enough to smoke. It gave me a heavy high, no anxiety or sweaty palms, killed my stomach pain. Very sticky squishy nugs like silly putty.