My first 3 chamber closet grow with Blueberry

robbie82

robbie82

Well-Known Member
To be honest the first pics do look like underwatering, but it will usually perk up in a few hours. If this has not happened, just leave the plant on its own. Honestly it realllly dosent look that bad, at times i have had plants look way worse, its wierd sometimes, its almost like plant can have a "bad day" and then out of no where perk right back up.

There is no reason why you cant transplant now though. Every plant I have ever had has aaaalways responeded veeery well to a transplant. and ABSOLOUTLY give it fresh soil and perlite. I neeeever use the same soil. This is one of the benifits of an unatrual grow, cuase u act as god and get to do things that plants dont normally get to. Like new soil. Giving the plant new soil makes the roots stronger as they stretch, create better soil/air ventelation, the new soil will be more soluable to H20, and when ur nuting wont have any setamint in the soil from previous feeds.

But dont go too crazy over it iloveit, I can tell you right now unless something drastic happens your plant will be ok.

Give me up to the dat pics for some better advice. Tomorrow I work from 7am-3pm (est) and will be able to responde shortly after.
 
iloveit

iloveit

Well-Known Member
robbie82 said:
To be honest the first pics do look like underwatering, but it will usually perk up in a few hours. If this has not happened, just leave the plant on its own. Honestly it realllly dosent look that bad, at times i have had plants look way worse, its wierd sometimes, its almost like plant can have a "bad day" and then out of no where perk right back up.

There is no reason why you cant transplant now though. Every plant I have ever had has aaaalways responeded veeery well to a transplant. and ABSOLOUTLY give it fresh soil and perlite. I neeeever use the same soil. This is one of the benifits of an unatrual grow, cuase u act as god and get to do things that plants dont normally get to. Like new soil. Giving the plant new soil makes the roots stronger as they stretch, create better soil/air ventelation, the new soil will be more soluable to H20, and when ur nuting wont have any setamint in the soil from previous feeds.

But dont go too crazy over it iloveit, I can tell you right now unless something drastic happens your plant will be ok.

Give me up to the dat pics for some better advice. Tomorrow I work from 7am-3pm (est) and will be able to responde shortly after.
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Thank you for your quick reply.
Today Ive found the leaves to be turning yellow on the edges & the tips curling backwards is the plant telling me something?
I have a little fan gently blowing directly on the soil & leaves beleiving it dry up the soil.
Take a look at the pics what do you think so far.
 

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iloveit

iloveit

Well-Known Member
TRICKKY said:
Don't panic, your plant is not dying.

You have a little leaf droop and yes by the sound of it the soil was a little dry. So watering was a good idea. However when a plant has just been watered it leaves will droop a little also, so watering would not necessarily alter the leaf drop straight away. Confusing eh!

Looking at the pics from yesterday or the day before Im sure the taproot has only just hit the bottom of the pot, this will tell the plant to start developing a mass of new roots and in my experience this will cause a little leaf droop too.

The important thing is you don't have any nutrient or ph problems, a little under/over watering is not a huge problem and you have done something to rectify it straight away. I should imagine by tomorrow she will be looking just fine.
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Thank you so much for the quick reply, Im not using any nutrients & Im not PHing the water just allowing it to sit for 24hrs.
Ive posted some pics of what the plant look like today (the pics are in the above posts) & I have discovered the leaves to be turning into a yellow complexion at the edges & a little brown. They are still in the tip curling backwards position hope this pick up soon.
Please comment on what you can see in the pics posted above Im new & its proving difficult for me to understand the signs the plant is giving off.
 
LonghornFan

LonghornFan

Well-Known Member
Iloveit,

Hey check the temperature right at the plant. I had the same problems with curl and tips and it was because the room was a little hotter than they liked. my two cents.
 
TRICKKY

TRICKKY

Well-Known Member
iloveit said:
Thank you so much for the quick reply, Im not using any nutrients & Im not PHing the water just allowing it to sit for 24hrs.
Ive posted some pics of what the plant look like today (the pics are in the above posts) & I have discovered the leaves to be turning into a yellow complexion at the edges & a little brown. They are still in the tip curling backwards position hope this pick up soon.
Please comment on what you can see in the pics posted above Im new & its proving difficult for me to understand the signs the plant is giving off.
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No worries,
Looks a bit perkier today. The yellowing seems to be on the lower leaves only, there may be a slight deficiency either Nitrogen or Magnesium, but I think its more likely to be a reaction to yesterdays problem , It isn't a biggy tho, Because....

Looking at the first pic I would say she's ready to go into a bigger pot about now, have you noticed anymore roots at the bottom of your pot?

When you transplant you may notice some more yellowing of the lower leaves, this is fine and due to the increased root growth taking place rather than a nutrient problem etc,

Lastly, do you have a ph meter or test strips? It would be usefull to know the ph of your water after you have distilled it 24 hours. I think I said to you at the begining that I would not add ph up or down to a seedling, as it is too aggressive? Maybe it was someone else? Either way when you transplant into your new container I would start to adjust your water to between 6.5 -7. Your plant is big enough now for the ph amendments not to have a negative effect. And you will be avoiding nutrient problems by sticking in this ph range.
 
iloveit

iloveit

Well-Known Member
TRICKKY said:
No worries,
Looks a bit perkier today. The yellowing seems to be on the lower leaves only, there may be a slight deficiency either Nitrogen or Magnesium, but I think its more likely to be a reaction to yesterdays problem , It isn't a biggy tho, Because....

Looking at the first pic I would say she's ready to go into a bigger pot about now, have you noticed anymore roots at the bottom of your pot?

When you transplant you may notice some more yellowing of the lower leaves, this is fine and due to the increased root growth taking place rather than a nutrient problem etc,

Lastly, do you have a ph meter or test strips? It would be usefull to know the ph of your water after you have distilled it 24 hours. I think I said to you at the begining that I would not add ph up or down to a seedling, as it is too aggressive? Maybe it was someone else? Either way when you transplant into your new container I would start to adjust your water to between 6.5 -7. Your plant is big enough now for the ph amendments not to have a negative effect. And you will be avoiding nutrient problems by sticking in this ph range.
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Im going to wait for the next watering which is when Ill transplant & add some superthrive, I do have a digital PH pen & Ill also adjust the ph accordingly. Im going to allow blueberry a little time to heal before transplanting because Im planing to switch the light cycle to 18/6 & if it reacts negetivly I wont be able to determine Ive the problem is a result of transplanting or light cycle switching.

Another thing I have formulex & ionic grow (both by Growth technology), would it be wise to add one of these nutrients soon or is it too early?

You the man Trickky.
 
iloveit

iloveit

Well-Known Member
LonghornFan said:
Iloveit,

Hey check the temperature right at the plant. I had the same problems with curl and tips and it was because the room was a little hotter than they liked. my two cents.
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I have second thermometer which reads 30C at the tip of the plant but the air suction is just above the plant so I think its ok. Thanks for the recommendation.
 
-=4:20=-Guy

-=4:20=-Guy

Well-Known Member
Havent visited in a few days; man you have alot going.

First off I want to start with a visual note for you. On the pic you have of the bottom of the pot, and the little root on it.

The bottom roots that you can see will tell you when to water, the little hairs on the root mean that there is lots of moisture and there is no need for water.

After a few days the hairs will die off and the root will be root looking.

When the root starts to dry up its about time to water and a day or so later the plant will droop, if not watered.


Onto your current issue. Looks like over watering, the soil is very dark.

I would go ahead and re pot it, the new soil will soak up that moisture in no time.
 
TRICKKY

TRICKKY

Well-Known Member
Formulex is really good stuff for small plants, you have to try really hard to reach toxicity with it. So if your gonna hold off on transplanting a little longer then a half dose of that will suffice. Just keep an eye on the bottom of your pot, right about now the plant will become root bound and this will slow growth dramatically and increase the risk of nutrient problems. And even worse root rot!

I really do think its time to transplant tho, in which case I would add no nutes. When you put your existing soil into the new soil, you want all the nutes to be in the new soil. This will encourage your root system to go looking for food in the new soil and not laze about in the soil it is in now.

As for the light cycle, it really isn't gonna damage your plant at all. In my opinion anything over 18 hours of light is just a waste of electricity.

Note. My advice does contradict what you planned on doing, so I think its only fair to say you should do however you see fit, so if you wanna hold off on transplanting thats fine.
 
iloveit

iloveit

Well-Known Member
TRICKKY said:
Formulex is really good stuff for small plants, you have to try really hard to reach toxicity with it. So if your gonna hold off on transplanting a little longer then a half dose of that will suffice. Just keep an eye on the bottom of your pot, right about now the plant will become root bound and this will slow growth dramatically and increase the risk of nutrient problems. And even worse root rot!

I really do think its time to transplant tho, in which case I would add no nutes. When you put your existing soil into the new soil, you want all the nutes to be in the new soil. This will encourage your root system to go looking for food in the new soil and not laze about in the soil it is in now.

As for the light cycle, it really isn't gonna damage your plant at all. In my opinion anything over 18 hours of light is just a waste of electricity.

Note. My advice does contradict what you planned on doing, so I think its only fair to say you should do however you see fit, so if you wanna hold off on transplanting thats fine.
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Thanks for the info your words truly are appreciated that goes without saying.
I do want to transplant ASAP but as far as I know I must water the soil so it stays whole & not fall apart, however Ive already recently watered the plant, by rewatering even only for transplanting purposes wouldnt that cause drowning?
About the light cycle Ive been told the plant grows slightly faster if under light on a 24/0 period so for now Im going to stick to it.

Moving on remember when I over watered my plant & the lower leaves began to yellow at the edges? Well now it has turned into a dark brown complexion (the yellow area that is) but they no longer look dry they seem to be absorbing the moisture maybe its because Ive been keeping the humidity at 40% instead of in the 30s% do you happen to know if this is a sign of healing or the opposite?

I understand its difficult to tell without any pics but I will most definetely post them up tomorrow (well its early morning so later on today he he).

Talk to you soon Iloveit.
 
iloveit

iloveit

Well-Known Member
*DAY 19*

Pics as promised:

1) The yellowness previous discussed as turned brown (anyone know what this indicates?)
2) The leaves at the bottom seem to be getting worse & have developed rusty coloured patches.
3) The same leaf from a slightly different angle hoping it makes a difference.
4) Another slightly closer pic of the 1st pic (I thought it may be necessary to include that for some reason)
 

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iloveit

iloveit

Well-Known Member
continued...

1) The leaves is bent backwards at a sharp 90 degrees, its the same on the opposite middle leaf (whats the reason for this?)
2) The only part of the plant that looks (& smells) healthy the top & the new set of leaves which are now growing in 5 sets of leaves instead of 3 yepeeee!
3) What looked like nodes to me in the beginning actually turned out to be leaves (I tried my best to get a good pic sorry if its defined enough).
4) The stem thickening up although its still growing bent (which somehow tricked the cam) but Ill correct this when I transplant soon.
 

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iloveit

iloveit

Well-Known Member
someone please explain how to upload pics all at once in one post, as you can see Ive not quite mastered that department...yet.

1 & 2) A couple of more pics of the leaves (ill) & stem.
3) The roots which have developed hairs on them which someone mentioned are a sign that they have enough moisture (thanks whoever that was)

& thats it for now but keep in mind that most of these pics display parts of the plant which need care & I have no idea what they are indicating so if you know or have a hunch please comment.

Many thanks.
 

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F

funkdocKT

Well-Known Member
damn...too bad you didnt have the know how to do a DIY cab...couldve saved yourself a couple grand...good luck though
 
-=4:20=-Guy

-=4:20=-Guy

Well-Known Member
iloveit said:
someone please explain how to upload pics all at once in one post, as you can see Ive not quite mastered that department...yet.

1 & 2) A couple of more pics of the leaves (ill) & stem.
3) The roots which have developed hairs on them which someone mentioned are a sign that they have enough moisture (thanks whoever that was)

& thats it for now but keep in mind that most of these pics display parts of the plant which need care & I have no idea what they are indicating so if you know or have a hunch please comment.

Many thanks.
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Things are looking good.

You mentioned the browning, now dead, parts of the leaf; those will stay that way till you remove them or they fall off. I usually let leafs stay till they cant stay anymore, or will fall with a gentle tug.

As for more pics; after you upload the first batch dont close the window, just browse and upload more pics, then when your done close the window.
 
TRICKKY

TRICKKY

Well-Known Member
iloveit said:
1) The yellowness previous discussed as turned brown (anyone know what this indicates?)
2) The leaves at the bottom seem to be getting worse & have developed rusty coloured patches.
3) The same leaf from a slightly different angle hoping it makes a difference.
4) Another slightly closer pic of the 1st pic (I thought it may be necessary to include that for some reason)
Click to expand...
Im pretty sure the yellow/rust coloured spots are a sign of Magnesium deficiency. This is caused by, overwatering, the soil being too cold and a high acidity of soil. You are most likely to have Mag problems when your root system is too small to supply enough of it to the plant.

Before you worry, don't. Its not a problem, you still have a very healthy plant there. Without putting to fine a point on it, it is time to transplant.

Yes you should water before transplanting, if its time to water. If however your soil is already wet then you wont need to water, just slide that soil gently out of the pot and into the new pot. Job done ;-)

In my opinion, the longer you leave it, the more chance your gonna have problems. And the more chance there is of that slight mag deficiency escalating into a biggy.
 
robbie82

robbie82

Well-Known Member
Hey sorry to take so long to reply been busy with kids, work....etc. Well things seem to have developed a liiitle worse but not by much. With the plants no showing color and some shape it looks like a lack of CO2. This maybe because of packed soil or over saturated soil or a mix of both. I cant tell you how much a transplant will help this plant. There have been many times where I didnt know what was wrong with my plant and i just transplanted it and it has helped me with so many things. Aside from letting the roots stretch. It also provides fresher soil, which allows the roots to breath easier, and also promoted root growth which is the number one thing to cuase a plant to grow faster and healthier.

If you still dont want to transplant u may want to consier breaking up some of that top soil to allow the roots to get some fresh air, go as deep as u can without damaging the roots.
 
NewGrowth

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
I really have just been skimming through. But from what I have read you have a soil compaction problem. Transplanting to correct this program is good advice. Roots need oxygen as well as moisture.

Try a mix made with coco coir, it retains a lot of air and can be mixed with organics to form a nice light soil mix with a perfect air/water ratio. Check out Subcool's mix too. More pearlite can help in a peat based mix too.

Still here, :peace:
 
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