My First Real Grow Thread! Socal Style!

[Gopedxr]

Thanks everyone! Sounds like i am going to let the girls kinda ride it out! I am telling ya i look at the banana from my window i just the see the leaves soo green and perky aiming for the sun! What a site to see! I drilled several holes into the plastic pot with the cotton candy for help with me on the drainage.


Stopped at a hydro store today in san bernadino and they he said go with gerneral organics line up and that synthetics dont do well in soil. Yet everyone else told me their synthetic like floranova does really well in soil? So that confused me. And ya sounds like i wont be watering anymore with the mollasses till flower. Maybe get some floranova grow for when a month runs up. Whats everyone take on what the hydro guy said? A member here told me synthetic is the way to go it gets used right as its poured basically and the organic nutes take a long time to be used effectiveley!! Thanks!!

 

[bekindbud]

Thanks everyone! Sounds like i am going to let the girls kinda ride it out! I am telling ya i look at the banana from my window i just the see the leaves soo green and perky aiming for the sun! What a site to see! I drilled several holes into the plastic pot with the cotton candy for help with me on the drainage.


Stopped at a hydro store today in san bernadino and they he said go with gerneral organics line up and that synthetics dont do well in soil. Yet everyone else told me their synthetic like floranova does really well in soil? So that confused me. And ya sounds like i wont be watering anymore with the mollasses till flower. Maybe get some floranova grow for when a month runs up. Whats everyone take on what the hydro guy said? A member here told me synthetic is the way to go it gets used right as its poured basically and the organic nutes take a long time to be used effectiveley!! Thanks!!

Those hydro guys will sell you a bridge if they could too....Do your own research and go with what you want and what fits your budget. Dont get me wrong there are a few good hydro places that wont blow smoke up your ass, but majority will.

Peace

BKB

 

[Gastanker]

I don't know what everyone is smoking but that looks completely normal to me. Nitrogen is both mobile in the plant and in the soil. Older leaves give up their nitrogen and turn yellow before cessation takes place (the blocking off of the leafs zylem and phloem in order to abandon it). This is natural on lower leaves and generally just suggests rigorous root growth after transplant or rigorous flower growth during flowering. A true nitrogen deficiency should be showing on all lower vegetation and a nute burn would show on the newest leaves first but effect all of the leaves - not to mention that looks nothing like a nute burn even with the tiny amount of crispiness.

Molasses can boost the soil micro biotics which can in turn utilize more nitrogen in the process of mineralizing the rest of the soil (a good thing) but shouldn't ever lock our nitrogen. If you totally drench your soil like one of the posters claimed then you could coat your grow medium and roots in a hydrophobic layer which wouldn't be good, but there is no reason that regular molasses use in the recommended quantities wouldn't help during veg as well - most every industrial and small time organic farmer I know uses molasses throughout the entire process.

 

[Gopedxr]

I don't know what everyone is smoking but that looks completely normal to me. Nitrogen is both mobile in the plant and in the soil. Older leaves give up their nitrogen and turn yellow before cessation takes place (the blocking off of the leafs zylem and phloem in order to abandon it). This is natural on lower leaves and generally just suggests to rigorous root growth after transplant or rigorous flower growth during flowering. A true nitrogen deficiency should be showing on all lower vegetation and a nute burn would show on the newest leaves first but effect all of the leaves - not to mention that looks nothing like a nute burn even with the tiny amount of crispiness.

Molasses can boost the soil micro biotics which can in turn utilize more nitrogen in the process of mineralizing the rest of the soil (a good thing) but shouldn't ever lock our nitrogen. If you totally drench your soil like one of the posters claimed then you could coat your grow medium and roots in a hydrophobic layer which wouldn't be good, but there is no reason that regular molasses use in the recommended quantities wouldn't help during veg as well - most every industrial and small time organic farmer I know uses molasses throughout the entire process.

Thats interesting and thanks for saying all of that! Yea i herd dont use mollasses in veg and some people said do it helps the microbes as you said. We will see what they look like tomorrow but i watered them today good all 5 gallons of water gone in one watering and i used crab meal and this liquid black mollasses. I just wish i had ordered more smart pots!

So the nutes sounds like going synthetic is best like flora nova kmk said its killer stuff!! And maybe some bud candy?? The guy at the store said synthetics dont do good in soil and would defeat my purpose of going organic. So what can ya guys tell me? Thanks!

 

[bekindbud]

I don't know what everyone is smoking but that looks completely normal to me. Nitrogen is both mobile in the plant and in the soil. Older leaves give up their nitrogen and turn yellow before cessation takes place (the blocking off of the leafs zylem and phloem in order to abandon it). This is natural on lower leaves and generally just suggests to rigorous root growth after transplant or rigorous flower growth during flowering. A true nitrogen deficiency should be showing on all lower vegetation and a nute burn would show on the newest leaves first but effect all of the leaves - not to mention that looks nothing like a nute burn even with the tiny amount of crispiness.

Molasses can boost the soil micro biotics which can in turn utilize more nitrogen in the process of mineralizing the rest of the soil (a good thing) but shouldn't ever lock our nitrogen. If you totally drench your soil like one of the posters claimed then you could coat your grow medium and roots in a hydrophobic layer which wouldn't be good, but there is no reason that regular molasses use in the recommended quantities wouldn't help during veg as well - most every industrial and small time organic farmer I know uses molasses throughout the entire process.

A yellow leaf is not normal by far, its a deficiency and a problem.

 

[Gastanker]

Thanks everyone! Sounds like i am going to let the girls kinda ride it out! I am telling ya i look at the banana from my window i just the see the leaves soo green and perky aiming for the sun! What a site to see! I drilled several holes into the plastic pot with the cotton candy for help with me on the drainage.


Stopped at a hydro store today in san bernadino and they he said go with gerneral organics line up and that synthetics dont do well in soil. Yet everyone else told me their synthetic like floranova does really well in soil? So that confused me. And ya sounds like i wont be watering anymore with the mollasses till flower. Maybe get some floranova grow for when a month runs up. Whats everyone take on what the hydro guy said? A member here told me synthetic is the way to go it gets used right as its poured basically and the organic nutes take a long time to be used effectiveley!! Thanks!!

Organic VS Chemical.

Chemical nutrients contain lots of salts but are immediately available to the plant as they are in a mineralized/ionic state.

Organics - For the most part organic nutrients are not mineralized which means that soil born bacteria must process the nutrients before they become available to the plant. Guanos and kelp are the exception being part soluble (mineralized) and part nonsoluble (needs bacteria to eat it first).

If you use true organic nutrients like bonemeal, bloodmeal, alfalfa meal, feather meal, horse manure... you need to have very active soil so that the nutrients can quickly be broken down by the bacteria to become available to the plant. When using true organics it is very important to make sure that the soil is very alive and that you time the release rates of the different organic amendments to correspond with flower and veg. Some amendments such as alfalfa meal take a long long time to break down so they might work outdoors but won't work so well indoors. If you purchase a premade organic line they are selling you only water soluble forms of organic nutrients and you don't need to worry about timing.

Both chem and organic work in soil. True organic has to have non sterile soil and will not work without it. Organics are really hard to overdo and chems are pretty easy. Organics tend to yield less and chems a bit more. Organic tends to taste better and smoke cleaner and chems the opposite. All in all it's really up to the grower.

Floranova is great - a molasses based nute solution

ps - most all produce grown in the US are grown with chemical nutes in soil... just to keep in mind.

 

[Gastanker]

A yellow leaf is not normal by far, its a deficiency and a problem.

One yellow fan leaf on the bottom of the plant?

Goped, are any of the other leaves showing any yellowing or is it just that one singular leaf?

 

[cannawizard]

thanks for the invite, your grow looks good so far. no comment on the yellowing.. (its too early for me to give any decent prognosis) but everything looks healthy,

goodluck

 

[bekindbud]

One yellow fan leaf on the bottom of the plant?

Goped, are any of the other leaves showing any yellowing or is it just that one singular leaf?

Yes, but if you look at his G13 post #124 you will see 2 yellow leaves (a full plant pic would be nice cause it looks like there will be more yellowing).

I am a noob and still learning to grow, but one thing I do know is that a yellow leaf is not normal at all. I strive for my plants to be 100% green, even the very last leaf on the bottom. Now I dont always succeed at it but I try my best. Good info on the Organic vs Chemical.

Peace

BKB

 

[Dan Kone]

Stopped at a hydro store today in san bernadino and they he said go with gerneral organics line up and that synthetics dont do well in soil. Yet everyone else told me their synthetic like floranova does really well in soil? So that confused me. And ya sounds like i wont be watering anymore with the mollasses till flower. Maybe get some floranova grow for when a month runs up. Whats everyone take on what the hydro guy said? A member here told me synthetic is the way to go it gets used right as its poured basically and the organic nutes take a long time to be used effectiveley!! Thanks!!

Generally I go with the "never trust a hydro store employee" policy, but he's right on that. I'm a big fan of Chem nutes for hydro, but for soil you're better off with organic nuts. Check out canna bio or roots organics line. Even humboldt nutrients natural line (psudo-organics) is pretty soil friendly.

 

[Gopedxr]

Generally I go with the "never trust a hydro store employee" policy, but he's right on that. I'm a big fan of Chem nutes for hydro, but for soil you're better off with organic nuts. Check out canna bio or roots organics line. Even humboldt nutrients natural line (psudo-organics) is pretty soil friendly.

I see, One member just told the synthetics hit fast and most people usen floranova. I am on the fence on what to do about all of this lol.

 

[Dan Kone]

I see, One member just told the synthetics hit fast and most people usen floranova. I am on the fence on what to do about all of this lol.

It can also harm the way your roots interact with organics I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong) making your plants entirely dependent on synthetics.

When you are buying bottles of "organic nutrients", what you're getting is a by product of an organic process, not a living organic system, so that eliminates the waiting period of a food to develop, plants can uptake them immediately. Stuff like compost teas take a while for plants to uptake because they are basically food for the micro-organisms in your soil. The waste of the micro organisms and/or their postmortem decay is what produces nutrients so that process takes a while. But bottled organic nutrients are actually nutrients that your plant can immediately take it.

I'm 90% sure that is all correct, but I'll check my books tomorrow to verify (too sleepy now) the accuracy of all of it.

 

[Gastanker]

It can also harm the way your roots interact with organics I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong) making your plants entirely dependent on synthetics.

When you are buying bottles of "organic nutrients", what you're getting is a by product of an organic process, not a living organic system, so that eliminates the waiting period of a food to develop, plants can uptake them immediately. Stuff like compost teas take a while for plants to uptake because they are basically food for the micro-organisms in your soil. The waste of the micro organisms and/or their postmortem decay is what produces nutrients so that process takes a while. But bottled organic nutrients are actually nutrients that your plant can immediately take it.

I'm 90% sure that is all correct, but I'll check my books tomorrow to verify (too sleepy now) the accuracy of all of it.

You're dead on with the bottled nutrients being immediately available. Chemical nutes come in many forms but generally contain much higher levels of salts than organic nutrients which can alter root growth if used at high levels. Chemical nutes also are more likely to result in lockouts due to improper balances - if you have too much of one thing it can block out another. With organic nutrients if you have too much of one thing it just slows down the release of other nutes versus totally blocking out the plants absorption.

I've never heard of plants becoming dependent on one form or another and know of several farmers that use cover crops, mulch and other organic amendments along with anhydrous ammonia in conjunction with each other. (anhydrous ammonia is non organic).

 

[troythepooh14]

lol just pick one... either you want to risk a lighter yield with tastier buds (organic) or you want an increased yield with a chance of not as tasty nuggetree.. Since you can visit your plants ever day your not limited to one... It really shouldn't be that hard of a decision imo.

 

[MediGrow530]

I use hydrozyme in my feedings it breaks down any nutrients on a molecular level so that the roots can uptake them much better! stuff works great for all nute lines and helps prevent nute lock! it also helps the plant resist certain things like deficiencies or burns and so on. its not too expensive and it works like a charm! great addition to all nutrient schedules!

 

[dirrtyd]

Okay here is what burned your plant how much crab meal did you use it releases fast. Know what is going to happen before you feed. Some things release faster than others. In reality you probably should have mixed all of that into your soil to begin with. Also I feed my plants mollasses throughout and have never had a problem. Gope Bud Candy is just an expensive mollasses to me. Good luck keepem green dirrtyd

 

[Luger187]

hey goped, did you read those links i posted a few days ago? lots of good info. the trick is to learn HOW your plants work. learn the processes it uses to take in nutrients and water. this will help you choose which nutrients to get. never trust someone who is trying to sell you a product. figure it out on your own, and you wont get ripped off

 

[Gopedxr]

Got a point there luger. Yea just so many opinions flying around. I might run floranova or advanced nutrients. I think its time for another picture : )

 

[volcomstar420]

FloraNova has always been good to me

 

[Luger187]

also, do you have some neem oil? if not, grab some and spray like once a week. just to prevent infestation in bug-filled socal lol. idk if its because of the neem or what, but ive been having gnats on my plants that are dead. it looks like they were chewin on it, and just died. ive seen like 10 in the past week.