My shelite Naptha Oil extraction....golden honey oil

cannabineer

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
lifegoesonbrah said:
Maybe I should go to a paint store and see if they have pure Naptha? This is for cancer treatment, I need something that is effective, available in Michigan, and clean. Here is what Rick Simpson says,

The process that I am about to describe involves washing the starting material twice with a good solvent such as pure naphtha, to remove the available resin from the plant material. Naphtha has proven to be a very good solvent to produce the oil and in Europe it is often called benzine. The only solvents that I have direct experience with are ether, alcohol and naphtha. Ether is my personal favourite and it is a very effective solvent, but it is expensive and can be quite hard to get. I think the use of ether is better suited for closed distilling devices since it is very volitile and its fumes make it a bit dangerous to work with. Alcohol is not quite as effective as ether or naphtha as a solvent, since it is less selective in nature, but still it does work well. Alcohol will dissolve more chlorophyll from the starting material and due to this, oils produced with alcohol will usually be more noticeably dark in color. For a solvent to be effective it should be 100% pure and 100% pure alcohol is expensive and can be quite hard to find. Naphtha on the other hand is quite cheap to acquire and is usually not too hard to find. Many paint suppliers sell pure naphtha as paint thinners, so for the most part it is quite easy to get and next to the use of ether it is my solvent of choice.
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I might be hampered by my location in CA where VOC (volatile organic compound) laws are fierce. But all the "naphtha" I have seen in the States is actually kerosene, and I would reject any product made with it as filthy.
I do not think that, unless you operate a solvent still, you can make a hardware- (or paint-) store product work. Key is the boiling range of the naphtha ... if the upper limit is below 200ºF with no residue, you have a "goer". My opinion. But the VM&P out here is still not dry at over three hundred degrees. Aiee. cn
 
flowamasta

flowamasta

Well-Known Member
cannabineer said:
I might be hampered by my location in CA where VOC (volatile organic compound) laws are fierce. But all the "naphtha" I have seen in the States is actually kerosene, and I would reject any product made with it as filthy.
I do not think that, unless you operate a solvent still, you can make a hardware- (or paint-) store product work. Key is the boiling range of the naphtha ... if the upper limit is below 200ºF with no residue, you have a "goer". My opinion. But the VM&P out here is still not dry at over three hundred degrees. Aiee. cn
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thats a pity, the shellite evaporates at room temp including all final residue... the last bit takes a while but with the added help of a volcano vaporizer at low temp.... around 70-80 celsius that rids of anything left and leaves a rock solid or glass like resin.... There are many clean solvents out there, just gotta do some hard research for your area, some laws are much tougher, solvents are everywhere in hardware stores.
 
cannabineer

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
flowamasta said:
thats a pity, the shellite evaporates at room temp including all final residue... the last bit takes a while but with the added help of a volcano vaporizer at low temp.... around 70-80 celsius that rids of anything left and leaves a rock solid or glass like resin.... There are many clean solvents out there, just gotta do some hard research for your area, some laws are much tougher, solvents are everywhere in hardware stores.
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I envy you your Shellite. it's what we Yanks call "petroleum ether" or "ligroin", and it's damned hard to obtain here. cn
 
polyarcturus

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
just ISO and yeah i tried to find shellite after seeing this.. in the US i can get it at an outrageous price from a local lab supply but they would probably ask what im doing with it :/
 
flowamasta

flowamasta

Well-Known Member
polyarcturus said:
just ISO and yeah i tried to find shellite after seeing this.. in the US i can get it at an outrageous price from a local lab supply but they would probably ask what im doing with it :/
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just tell them you specifically need shellite ( if it is indeed pure form naptha ) for cleaning internal engine components so it doesn't etch or glaze the metals surface.... nothing cleans grease and metal filings better than shellite. Expensive de-grease if you will ;) how much is outrageous? Here shellite is around $10 per litre. given that car fuel is around $1.60 per litre i suppose thats expensive but for obtaining a pure clean ( especially lab grade ) solvent?! go for it. Research a little more, I still Like Iso if used as a quick wash, it seems to be more efficient at extracting non-polar compounds including chlorophyl but a quick rinse through a simple kitchen strainer following a coffee filter/s for final filtration and then evaporate with less heat than 80 degrees so you keep terpenes and canabanoids intact. The aroma will change to a very rich potent and flavoursome product with shellite if kept under that temp, those temps also help with the Decarboxylation process to make sure all CBD's and THC has been converted to activated THC. Go for Iso if it's cheaper, it will take longer to evaporate but it's not about rushing. I'm still going through stuff i made 6 months ago :) rock hard little gold chunks of resin, still as potent as the day i extracted.





you can see crystals of hash resin on the side of the spoon. That's a Teaspoon by the way, close-up macro. That is after scraping out of my evaporating dish after it has been sitting in the drawer covered lightly for maybe 1 month. The best way to obtain is with patience :) It melts if you scrape it fast and just slides back over the glass. Keep it cool and you can scrape shards of resin off, but careful!! the chips of resin go flying and then may become soft and end up on the floor or wherever! so work a way so the chippings go in 1 safe direction and not in your eye. I could only imagine what crystal resin would feel like melting and stuck on your eyeball!
 
polyarcturus

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
bwhahahaha besides the lab store there is a place out in the middle of bumfuck nowhere selling it to clean farm machines.

labs supply 35$ per liter

farm store 15$ per qt 50miles aways

i can order a quart for 7$ online... bu i think i will have to look around i doubt any of these are extraction quality.

yeah i make some good iso, it is fucking slow, normally since i make small batches i boil off the alcohol in about 30 min on 150 degree heat, i do need o use a lower heat cause my shit be tasting harsh sometimes. but maybe next time ill order some napatha tho. shits goo for oil too? i was just reading about that, if its good for that, i will need some for that designated purpose as well.
 
flowamasta

flowamasta

Well-Known Member
polyarcturus said:
bwhahahaha besides the lab store there is a place out in the middle of bumfuck nowhere selling it to clean farm machines.

labs supply 35$ per liter

farm store 15$ per qt 50miles aways

i can order a quart for 7$ online... bu i think i will have to look around i doubt any of these are extraction quality.

yeah i make some good iso, it is fucking slow, normally since i make small batches i boil off the alcohol in about 30 min on 150 degree heat, i do need o use a lower heat cause my shit be tasting harsh sometimes. but maybe next time ill order some napatha tho. shits goo for oil too? i was just reading about that, if its good for that, i will need some for that designated purpose as well.
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yes you will have to look up the MSDS safety sheet for that particular product to make sure it is sourced from only the purest grade chemicals. Because this is a petroleum product you want to make sure it is completely refined. The smallest amount of impurities ends up being alot.

Small batches are always better in my opinion. I never evap more than 200ml at a time. By the time it gets down to thickness it takes alot of work to rid of all hydrocarbons. You will know when done properly, it will stay thick when warm and set at room temp. If it has any chemical smell at all, it needs further evaporation.

150 degrees will destroy alot of cannabanoids and special flavours and terpenes..... you don't want that do you!? The first 5 tokes of my bubble hash i toke for flavour ;) same with most of my smokables :)
 
polyarcturus

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
flowamasta said:
yes you will have to look up the MSDS safety sheet for that particular product to make sure it is sourced from only the purest grade chemicals. Because this is a petroleum product you want to make sure it is completely refined. The smallest amount of impurities ends up being alot.

Small batches are always better in my opinion. I never evap more than 200ml at a time. By the time it gets down to thickness it takes alot of work to rid of all hydrocarbons. You will know when done properly, it will stay thick when warm and set at room temp. If it has any chemical smell at all, it needs further evaporation.

150 degrees will destroy alot of cannabanoids and special flavours and terpenes..... you don't want that do you!? The first 5 tokes of my bubble hash i toke for flavour ;) same with most of my smokables :)
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oh i will definitely be looking at mdms labels.

yeah my extracted hash tends to be tasteless..but i do such small amt.s often its just about a quick little extraction get real high one time.. my main issue is i could never bring my self to sacrifice bud, so its always trim when im making hash unfortunately. my best results are with dry ice hash but i want to give bubble a try one day but im not sure what bags or kit/brand i need to buy.
 
cannabineer

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
flowamasta said:
yes you will have to look up the MSDS safety sheet for that particular product to make sure it is sourced from only the purest grade chemicals. Because this is a petroleum product you want to make sure it is completely refined. The smallest amount of impurities ends up being alot.

Small batches are always better in my opinion. I never evap more than 200ml at a time. By the time it gets down to thickness it takes alot of work to rid of all hydrocarbons. You will know when done properly, it will stay thick when warm and set at room temp. If it has any chemical smell at all, it needs further evaporation.

150 degrees will destroy alot of cannabanoids and special flavours and terpenes..... you don't want that do you!? The first 5 tokes of my bubble hash i toke for flavour ;) same with most of my smokables :)
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The MSDS won't tell you much about purity. cn
 
cannabineer

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
If you mean my approach to sourcing pure solvent ... at the moment it's to buy a locally-available cleaning product (please forgive if I'm not forthcoming about its identity) and distilling it. cn
 
polyarcturus

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
its okay cannbineer i understand. i would not trust all the things i have attempted in the past to other hands than my own either.. but as far as a still goes how would one build a simple safe setup to use? would it be best to buy a lab supply one? or build one? and what would a well made still be made out of? i have been getting more and more into chemistry as i have been going along in life, learning, not hands on unfortunately, but some day i would like to get hands and i suppose this would be useful info.
 
polyarcturus

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
but its pretty safe to say at the moment i would never ever try to distill a flammable substance not even 90% iso, i would rather use it as is.
 
cannabineer

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
polyarcturus said:
its okay cannbineer i understand. i would not trust all the things i have attempted in the past to other hands than my own either.. but as far as a still goes how would one build a simple safe setup to use? would it be best to buy a lab supply one? or build one? and what would a well made still be made out of? i have been getting more and more into chemistry as i have been going along in life, learning, not hands on unfortunately, but some day i would like to get hands and i suppose this would be useful info.
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I assembled mine piecemeal over the years from ground glass bits. The most precious parts at this time are my two remaining thermometers. They don't make'm like that any more ... cn
 
flowamasta

flowamasta

Well-Known Member
polyarcturus said:
oh i will definitely be looking at mdms labels.

yeah my extracted hash tends to be tasteless..but i do such small amt.s often its just about a quick little extraction get real high one time.. my main issue is i could never bring my self to sacrifice bud, so its always trim when im making hash unfortunately. my best results are with dry ice hash but i want to give bubble a try one day but im not sure what bags or kit/brand i need to buy.
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good hash should always taste good, i myself think the dry ice method to be ..... 'ok' i tried the light dusting stuff first, and gathered up piles, used buds and the 20 micron bag first, then the 73 micron, the 73 micron was more potent and flavoursome, but the 20 micron seemed to have a sleepy effect... more of the smaller amber trichs i guess. I preferred the more psychoactive 73 micron and it has a nicer smell when opening the jar, maybe just going the 73 micron bag only would of been better to have the 2 combined with the dry ice method?? anyone feel free to add in on that. Bubble hash seems to taste the best, but only because you can do it with fresh wet buds and it has a cakey yummy nutty taste to it.

The Australian MSDS site for Shellite is here : http://www.recochem.com.au/files/downloads/Shellite_Sep11.pdf
reading anything like that can seem scary and dangerous.. ( IT CAN BE!!! ), its how to use it and safety. IF YOU ARE A SMOKER THAT SMOKES WITHOUT THINKING THEN LOOK OUT. Out of all the chemical extractions i've done and sampled i haven't found ANYTHING that comes close to quality from bud extracted honey oil using Shellite.

cannabineer said:
The MSDS won't tell you much about purity. cn
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correct, but knowing what those chemicals are and what their nature is and how they react at certain temperatures will tell you alot how to deal with them. INCLUDING CLEANUP. IF YOU ARE REALLY WORRIED wash the extraction in 80 degree distilled water in the bottom of an aluminum can (non-reactive), if there are any chemical compounds left they will surface in the water The oil will stay left behind if you are careful, it will want to float on top but each time you wash it with water its like purging. releasing anything soluble in water (carbons) BUT you will remove some terpenes and aromas, but this is a last straw to show people how clean the shellite is I WILL NOT SHOW BY PICS AS IT CAN BE A MESSY PROCESS, AND I TRUST MY PRODUCT 100% AND NEVER FELT ILL OR TASTED ANYTHING BAD FROM IT. I'm not a chemist nor do i know everything about chemicals, but i have taken precautions and done plenty of research before ever attempting anything with 100% volatile chemicals. THEY CAN BE 100% SAFE UNDER THE RIGHT CIRCUMSTANCES. This shellite extraction is great because it allows you to remove the waxes while you evaporate, kinda like a re-x after about 1/3 has evaporated If there are waxes building up on the surface ( small platelets like lilly pads ) you can further collect this, some strains have more wax than others. if you place it in a freezer covered for 1 hour, waxes will separate from the liquid, they become a pinch to remove and can remove quite a chunk of bad flavour. Usually with trim extractions but flowers do contain waxes, it all depends on how hot and how long you extracted for. You can remove crud.... FACT :)
 
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