My Stepes for Growing

JBodule

Active Member
Hey guys i have been researching the shit out of this, and im about to start growing in the next few days i just got my seeds and they are sitting in a damp paper towel right now. But from what i have read up on this is what i should be doing.. right?? If there are any errors please correct me.. thanks guys

Step One:

Supplies
-Seeds
-Neutral Soil
-16oz Clear Cup
-Cool and Warm White Florescent Bulbs
-Water > 6.5 Ph and low PPM levels
-Nutrients 20-5-5 for growing

First prep seeds and after prep'ed youll need to placed prepped seed 1/2" deep into the medium [16oz Clear Plastic Cup full of our neutral soil]. Now get soil moist with water, the water should be at a ph of 6.5 always when growing and to start off for right now the PPM should be low. The first watering the PPM will be anywhere from 100 and lower. Now place Warm and Cool White Florescent Bulbs over the newly planted seedlings for the first week. The light should be on for 24hours a day. Now wait.. Check the moisture level with a moisture meter. Here are the PPM level for the water while the plant is in the Clear Cup
Second Watering - anywhere from 100 to 200 PPM
Third Watering - 300 to 400 PPM
Any watering from the forth watering and until the plant grows out of the cup should be around 500 PPM

When the roots develop and reach the bottom of the clear cup or pretty close to it, it is time to move the plant from the cup to a larger pot. The plant should only be in the cup for around a week and the florescent bulbs can be 1" from the plant.

Step Two:

Supplies
-2 Gallon Pot
-HPS Bulb System
-Some Sort of Venting System
-Water > 6.5 Ph and PPM level around 600
-Temp Gauge in Growing Room [75 - 85 degrees]
-Nutrients 20-5-5 still for growing

Now you can transfer your plant from the Clear Cup into the larger 2 gallon pot. Moisten the soil with water at a PPM level of around 600. After the transfer is complete and the soil is moist you place your plant under your HPS Bulb System. You want the bulb to be anywhere from 14 to 24 inch from the plant. Place hand under light next to plant and if it burns your hand then raise the bulb some more. *Remember to have a proper ventilation system. Now more waiting and constant checking. To make your stems stronger you can slightly bend to stems. This is better for holding the big buds that will grow. The next time you water your plant the PPM should be increasing, by now the PPM level should be anywhere from 600 to 1000. Dont increase the PPM to fast this make burn your plant, burning can also occur if your PPM level are to high. Every plant is different, if burning does occur you must flush the plants with pure water. [water should sit out for 24 to 48 hours before using on plants.] Now keep this up for a few weeks until the plant is big enough and you want to start the budding cycle. After the first week of using the HPS Bulb you can change the light cycle from 19 to 24 hrs long. Recommended is 19 or 20 hrs. The next step is the Budding Cycle!

Step Three:

Supplies
-Plant
-Water > 6.5 Ph and PPM levels from 1000 to 1200(depends on plant)
-Bulb
-Nutrients of 5-15-15 for Flowering/Budding

Now all your going to change in the tending to the plant is nutrients and slight PPM levels. But mainly is the Light Cycle. The New lighting cycle is 12 hours on and 12 hours off. Now you can sex the plants and all males you want to kill unless you want to produce seeds. Keep any females and keep watering with 1000 to 1200 PPM levels and nutrients of 5-15-15. When the hairs turn 1/4 red stop using high PPM levels and stop feeding the plant the nutrients. For now on you will use pure water, this will create a better tasting smoke. IMPORTANT when the lights are off keep all light out of room. Now when the hairs on your females 2/3 red its time to cut them down. If you notice any grey or brown forming color in the hairs you waited to long and must cut immediately! Now Step FOUR!

Step Four:

Supplies
-Sharp Blades
-Drying Room
-Plastic, Paper bags, or Large Jar

Now the hairs are 2/3 red hopefully and you need to cut them down! After you cut down the plants you will hang them upside down in a drying room and leave them that way for about two days. After those two days you will place them into a plastic or paper bag and seal it. Remember to seal the bag and also to open the bag several times a day in order to prevent any mold to grow on them which is BAD. You will do this process for about a week dont rush or you will crete bad bud that crumbles to dust when you break it apart. Now you have weed that is ready to be sold and smoked!
 

wbd

Well-Known Member
This is alot to read, sounds like you got a combination of good and bad information all mixed together. A couple of things that stick out as being not right to me:

1) The PPM stuff for food -- forget about PPM. Don't feed for the first 2-3 weeks after the plant sprouts, there's enough food in the soil to keep the plant happy. Get some good food, preferebly organic or mostly organic, and start with 1/4 to 1/2 strength to see how the plant reacts, and increase to full strength when you know it's safe. Strength is according to directions on the label.

2) Roots coming out of the bottom of the cup are a good indicator that it is soon time to transplant, but seeing root hairs at the bottom of the cup is not a green light to transplant. Root hairs are going to be visible long before transplant time. A better indicator, to me anyhow, is when the soil is completely drying out every 1-2 days. This means you've got a solid root ball that will be easy to remove and transplant to a new container. For CFL's, this takes more than a week.

3) Are you planning on watering with tap water? People say to let it sit out to let choline evaporate, but you might not need to. Everybody's tap water is different, and plants need some chlorine anyhow. I don't let my water sit out and it's completely fine. If it smells strong of chlorine, you might go ahead and do this, but if your water is tasty your plants will love it.

4) The color of the hairs barely means anything. They are a sign of a maturing plant, but they turn color at different times depending on genetics. The colors will vary by strain as well. Go to Radio Shack and get their little 100X mini microscope and learn about harvesting by looking at trichomes. Also, if you got breeder seends, see what they say about flowering time for that strain. Remember that flowering does not start on day 1 of 12/12.

5) If you care about taste and potency, your drying/curing plans are no good. Go read about drying and curing again. If you're just trying to make a quick buck, then I guess what you wrote down is fine assuming that is long enough to dry them out.

6) Moisture meters are a waste of money IMHO. Learn to judge watering times by weight. You can easily feel when a pot is light and needs watering by picking it up. In veg, you want the pot to dry out as completely as you can without wilting the plant, this encourages root development. If you wilt the plant, its not a big deal -- don't make a habit of it, but note how long you waited to water and wait less the next time.
 

pjboy31

Well-Known Member
agreed and also take your time and learn from your successes and failures. Your babbies will teach you alot.
 

JBodule

Active Member
hey thanks guys def gonna read into it again. i picked up the cannabis grow bible haha.. thanks for your info that why i wanted to post that up.
 
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