MY True HP Aero Plug&Play Pods

fatman, at constant trickle, how much co2 would you guess 50 plants can consume?

Reason i ask, i have a hot water heater in my basement, and my grow room is air tight and up in the attic with AC.

I was going to run a tube or a hose up there from the exhaust pipe of my hot water heater.

First thing i was wondering is how much of a hose would i need, i was thinking of using a 1/2 inch plastic black aeration line. And then the second question is what would be the best pump for pumping it up there, quiet would be better obviously.

Dude Man said:

Sir FatMan, I know this is a newbie question but when you are cloning using LP-Aero, you would use a liquid clone solution with macro-micro nutts or do you only use liquid cloning solution until they are rooted?


Treeman - your pressure gauge is huge where did you get it?

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from grainger. its for the visualy challenged

tree farmer said:

from grainger. its for the visualy challenged

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LOL...

fatman7574 said:

Wow, I wonder how mayy people over at IC there are trying to mix up medium pressure and high pressure methodology by using a single splenoid as a divertor valve so as to not have to buy an accumulator tank and its valves/gauges etc. I assume it is the Super TAG guy PetFlora convincing everyone to do so.

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reading back through some old stuff, im not sure if this would work or not, but if a person used 2 solenoids, but the difference is one of these solenoids is at the end of your main sprayer hose tubing, far away from the pump or the res, or you could have the line loop back around so that it is closer to the res, etc.

But what im getting at is, when the main solenoid up the the pump closes, and forces the water to go to the sprayers, the solenoid on the sprayer lines closes simultaneously, and the system builds pressure, and as soon as the solenoid up the the pump re opens again, so does the solenoid at the end of your sprayer line, so what I would think should happen is the pressure in the sprayer line is relieved from both ends, and thus the drip or contunued spray from the pressurized sprayer lines should vanish.

This of couse would only be practical in a system where the nutes are recycled, for if you were doing drain to waste, having all that runoff from the pressurized line get trashed every time would be a huge waste, or i guess you could just loop it back around to the main res, so maybe not waste it after all?

Im confused what aplication you guys are using pressure releif valves for, especially down in the 20psi ranges?

The pressure relief valve only operates in the event of a pressure switch failure, it protects the accumulator from dangerously high pressures.

Atomizer said:

The pressure relief valve only operates in the event of a pressure switch failure, it protects the accumulator from dangerously high pressures.

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That's why i wanted one for safety, that's it!



from reading the threads it sounds like growth chamber temp can be a problem with HP-Aero.

I was thinking that you could make a radiator of sorts by making loops of aquapex and hooking it up at a rez with chiller water running through it.

only down side is that it would cause the mist to beed up on the pex and drip?

any thoughts??

Dude Man said:

That's why i wanted one for safety, that's it!



from reading the threads it sounds like growth chamber temp can be a problem with HP-Aero.

I was thinking that you could make a radiator of sorts by making loops of aquapex and hooking it up at a rez with chiller water running through it.

only down side is that it would cause the mist to beed up on the pex and drip?

any thoughts??

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i dont have any chamber temp problems. my pods temps stay at 69 degrees no matter what temp the ambient room is run at. i just adjust my input solution temp to always keep my pod temps at 69. this usually means keeping the solution temp at 67. this is accomplished without a chiller. as a matter of fact i have a heater in the res to keep it this temp otherwise it would fall to low. the res is out of the room.
i will experment with higher pod temps in my new chambers but for now im not really setup for that so i just keep them at 69 degrees. all this entails is insulating the pods with some regular insulation that goes into a 2x4 wall and covering with white panda film. two layers of insulation and the plastic wrapped around the pods seems to work fine to accomplish this. the plant soon shades the pod and this also helps.

What ambient temp are you able to fend off with that insulation treefarmer? I'm trying to keep the a/c bill down and running 4kw vert per plant.

As long as your root chamber and nutrient temp is below the plant canopy tempearture it is fine with the exception that pathogens/bacteria multiply at a he igher rtae at higher temps. This should normally never be a proble, as the nutrient water delivers highly oxygenated water regularly so there is little chance of oxygen hating bacteria to develope. Plus you have the oxidation power of oxygen surrounding the roots and contacting all surfaces. Even then adding a small dose of chlorox to your nutrient solution handles any extreme possibilities. It only requires enough chlorox to maintain a small residual dosage. With drain to waste the water in the accumulator held water will not lose its chlorine over time. Any chlorine dosed to a reservoir will lose its chlorine over time if it remains in the resrvi oir over a long period of time before being pumped into the accumulator. Not aerating the reservoir will increase the time the water retains its residual chlorine. There is no adavantage or need to havinfg high DO reservoir or accumulator water as the sprayo ing of the water fully saturates the water with DO.

Usually the extreme case in a chamber HP grow would be mildew, most often found at lower chamber temperatures where there are air drafts auses by leakage of cooler room air ??? into the chambers, not high temps. For bacteria multipication you need food such as rotting roots. Seldom an issue. I have not heard an HP aero grower ever complain of rotting root except the TAG dudes who have many assorted problems equal to those of small tube low pressure aero growers many problems.

As long as you have adequate CO2 for high temp growth there is no reason to have chamber or nutrient temps below the ambient room air temp. Lower temps will actually decrease nutrient take up ability. Remember DO is not an issue as you will have a DO at least 4 to 6 times higher than needed with HP aero. The canopy temp will always be higher than the chamber temp or the ambient room air temp.

You do need to look at humidity. Humidity is a larger driving force than a temperature difference between the nutrient temp and plant temp. If the humidity is to high around the plant then transpiration is reduced as there is less evaporation of water at the stomata. The water leaving the stomata must be evaporated (become humidity/moist air) before more water exits the stomata. This is in nature handled by movement of dry air over the plants leaf surfaces. In indoor growing it is handled either with fans (no CO2 supplementation), often with too much fan air causing stomata closing as too much stomata released water is evaporated too quickly. Or it is handled with airconditioning or dehumification or both. I use both as I want higher temps and higher transpiration than can be maintained when using just air conditioning to handle all dehumidification. Using just an airconditioner removes too much heat in relation to the dehumidification. If temps are lowered too much CO2 uptake and photosythesis slows down as well.

Simplification:
Nutrient uptake from solution is driven by the use of nutrients within the plant, by the fixation of nutrients in new growth of leaves, shoots, stems, seeds and roots. Growth is thus the primary driving force for nutrient uptake, but growth itself is driven by environmental conditions and in particular photosynthesis and solar radiation, temperature and humidity.

does it hurt plants to be warmer during dark than light?

to keep temps down durning the summer, i run lights on at night, and lights off at day, but the attic gets its hottest during the day when lights are out, my room get up to 88 at highest and then when lights are on its around 72.

It does not really adversely effect the plants to have higher night temps. Respration is bit more difficult at higher temps but it does not require near as much respiration efficiency as the usual slightly lower night temps provide. There is more of a problem with too much night time decline in temp.

i had a guy trying to tell me that if plants dont have a 15 deg decline at night, they dont produce as much bud... not true?

so the accumulator tank i want has 1" inlet/outlet fittings. i assume that it doesn't matter that my pump only has a 3/8 output since the water isn't going anywhere, right?

how did you guys step down/up your fittings? what type fittings did you use?

i just have to say thanks again to you fellas too. I'm 6 weeks in bud on my system and i have never seen crystals growing on fan leaf stems before...amazing. fucking amazing.

hydroboy27 said:

i had a guy trying to tell me that if plants dont have a 15 deg decline at night, they dont produce as much bud... not true?

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Not true. The only thing that truly matters is the fact that if you are growing a phenotype that is prone to turning blue or purple it will do that best if your daytime and night time temps vary by more than 15 degrees. That is because stress causes the changes. It is also quite well known that large temperatures swings such as 15 degrees and more stresses the plants leading to slower growth and lowering over all yield and potency.

clydefrog said:

so the accumulator tank i want has 1" inlet/outlet fittings. i assume that it doesn't matter that my pump only has a 3/8 output since the water isn't going anywhere, right?

how did you guys step down/up your fittings? what type fittings did you use?

i just have to say thanks again to you fellas too. I'm 6 weeks in bud on my system and i have never seen crystals growing on fan leaf stems before...amazing. fucking amazing.

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Amazing what one can learn when they get away from the typical threads read by all the newbies. In those threads the dim wits try to argue against anything that is not an established myth, or that does not come from some retailers market hype site. Those same dim wits when coming to this thread typically tuck their tails between their legs and run back to the newbie threads.

fatman7574 said:

Amazing what one can learn when they get away from the typical threads read by all the newbies. In those threads the dim wits try to argue against anything that is not an established myth, or that does not come from some retailers market hype site. Those same dim wits when coming to this thread typically tuck their tails between their legs and run back to the newbie threads.

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Im newbie and this thread for me is the best, very good for beginners to learn, unfortunately people often surrenders to the first difficulty.

clydefrog said:

so the accumulator tank i want has 1" inlet/outlet fittings. i assume that it doesn't matter that my pump only has a 3/8 output since the water isn't going anywhere, right?

how did you guys step down/up your fittings? what type fittings did you use?

i just have to say thanks again to you fellas too. I'm 6 weeks in bud on my system and i have never seen crystals growing on fan leaf stems before...amazing. fucking amazing.

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https://www.icmag.com/modules/Journal/viewentry.php?journalid=507

This is my journal it's just starting,
but i have listed online stores that you should be able to get the parts you need..

many things to think about??

Many different ways to do it!

clydefrog said:

so the accumulator tank i want has 1" inlet/outlet fittings. i assume that it doesn't matter that my pump only has a 3/8 output since the water isn't going anywhere, right?

how did you guys step down/up your fittings? what type fittings did you use?

i just have to say thanks again to you fellas too. I'm 6 weeks in bud on my system and i have never seen crystals growing on fan leaf stems before...amazing. fucking amazing.

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my tank has a 3/4 inch output line and my pump has a 3/8 inch line in and out. the 3/8 is pretty tipical for small diaphram type pumps. so the line from the pump i bumped up to 1/2 inch to run to the accumulator and to suck from the res. then reduced the accumulator outlet from 3/4 down to 1/2 inch to run to the selonoid which then breaks down to 1/4 inch to run to the nozzels. line sizes should always decrease after the selonoid leading towards the nozzels not increase.

if your going for HP try and always keep the line size going out to the actual nozzels as small as possible as this leaves the smallest amount possible in the lines after the selonoid closes thus leaving less solution to drip if other means arent taken to limit the drip. (ADV's etc.)you will also get quicker responses from the nozzles as there will be less volume to fill before the nozzle starts discharging.

OregonMeds said:

What ambient temp are you able to fend off with that insulation treefarmer? I'm trying to keep the a/c bill down and running 4kw vert per plant.

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ambient temps are around 80.

so what is the goal as far as yeilds are concerned? in sog, or tree form, whats the most yeilds you have gotten per plant in a relatively short amount of time?