N and micro nute deficiency?

Howzit all! Both my Super Silver Haze girls have been showing signs of nitrogen deficiency for the past week. My other girls (mostly indicas) are doing fine. First here are details:

system:
outdoor, potted soil (sunshine mix #4 in 3 gallon container)

watering:
~2 or 3 days. ph = ~ 6.5

nutes:
1/2 recommended GH Flora Grow and Flora Bloom with every other watering.

1 tsp mollasses

stage:
week 3 of flowering. 5' 3" height.

So on Thursday I flushed them and gave them full strength GH Grow and 1/4 strength Bloom feed. Today I just gave them plain water w/ mollasses. How long will I start to see results of the last feeding? Are sativas known to require more nitrogen during flowering? My GDP, Hindu Kush + Skunk and OG Kush are doing fine as mentioned. Unfortunately I do not have a PPM/EC meter (yet) which is why I usually lean towards the weaker nute solution strength but today it seems alot more leaves are yellow and at the rate it has been going the past week I'm starting to panic!!

Please advise. Tanks braddahs!!

Hey man welcome to RIU
tkae about a week to see results from nutes, 2-3 days maybe a bit less for nute burn.

GH nutes are OK, ive used em.

Tanks braddah! I'll keep an eye on her.

That's just simple N def. It sometimes looks a bit strange (very white eith still green veins) on Super Silver Haze, usually when the stem is purple or red and not green.

Actually, the amount of nutes a plant can handle is indicated by the diameter of the stem, not strain or height or number of leaves. That's why a mature 1 1/2 foot tall white rhino can take double the amount of nutes a 5-6 foot tall SSH can.

But by now you could go full strength with the nutes, those SSHs look mature enough for it. Introduce the higher concentration gradually, not all at once.

Doctor Cannabis said:

Actually, the amount of nutes a plant can handle is indicated by the diameter of the stem, not strain or height or number of leaves. That's why a mature 1 1/2 foot tall white rhino can take double the amount of nutes a 5-6 foot tall SSH can.

Click to expand...

Thank you for that Doctor! I did not know that.

<sighs> A lot more leaves dropped today but I can't tell if the rest are still yellowing. Keeping my fingers crossed....

Doctor Cannabis said:

That's just simple N def. It sometimes looks a bit strange (very white eith still green veins) on Super Silver Haze, usually when the stem is purple or red and not green.

Actually, the amount of nutes a plant can handle is indicated by the diameter of the stem, not strain or height or number of leaves. That's why a mature 1 1/2 foot tall white rhino can take double the amount of nutes a 5-6 foot tall SSH can.

But by now you could go full strength with the nutes, those SSHs look mature enough for it. Introduce the higher concentration gradually, not all at once.

Click to expand...

Yeah actually I've never heard the stem has anything to do with how much nutes to feed it.

I'm gonna start a thread about that and find out more, keep ya posted.

Okay...they both are starting to show signs of improvement. Yellowing has slowed down and also a noticeable decrease in leaf lost/dropped. They are showing another sign of defiency though.... <sigh>

I will post up pics as soon as I can and ask for your input.

yeah man im subscribed, post some pics Ill try.
Also you may wanna give it a week, not over analyze it, you could do more harm than good.
DO NOT WATER, let it dry out good first.

Phenom420 said:

Yeah actually I've never heard the stem has anything to do with how much nutes to feed it.

Click to expand...

This is something I've learned from experience. You can feed a sturdy White Rhino 2-3x the nute concentration you'd feed a Super Silver Haze or a Neville's Haze. Eventually I noticed that the thicker the stem, the more the plant can stock up on and metabolize nutes.

Doctor Cannabis said:

This is something I've learned from experience. You can feed a sturdy White Rhino 2-3x the nute concentration you'd feed a Super Silver Haze or a Neville's Haze. Eventually I noticed that the thicker the stem, the more the plant can stock up on and metabolize nutes.

Click to expand...

I'm always open to ideas, let me pitch this at ya I have a really scrawny plant that I gave no care to early on, it's flowering and I dont give it diluted nutes, i give it the xtras left over from my much larger plants, it has 0 sign of any problems other than its tall and has no shoots, but thats the ligh or lack of it for a few weeks LOL here is what im talkin about
its healthy over all tho, in shitty left over soil from a male plant and everything, eyt it lives better than some of my other LOL

its in a journal here
https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/237264-think-i-can-get-pound.html

She looks fine. They way she's going, she'll give out an ounce.

If you give her more light, it might me 2 ounces. But the problem here is that it has no side stems. Must have some ruderalis genetics in it.

Also, the amount of nutes you're feeding her seems just right. If you give her more light, you might want to give her more nutes aswell.

Doctor Cannabis said:

She looks fine. They way she's going, she'll give out an ounce.

If you give her more light, it might me 2 ounces. But the problem here is that it has no side stems. Must have some ruderalis genetics in it.

Also, the amount of nutes you're feeding her seems just right. If you give her more light, you might want to give her more nutes aswell.

Click to expand...

I seriously doubt ill get anywhere close to that maybe a few grams... I appreciate your optimism, I dunno what strain it is, it showed up in a bucket when I transplanted another plant into it. Its been in the dark for weeks when it was vegging, how it's female is beyond me.

R1Farmer said:

Howzit all! Both my Super Silver Haze girls have been showing signs of nitrogen deficiency for the past week. My other girls (mostly indicas) are doing fine. First here are details:

system:
outdoor, potted soil (sunshine mix #4 in 3 gallon container)

watering:
~2 or 3 days. ph = ~ 6.5

nutes:
1/2 recommended GH Flora Grow and Flora Bloom with every other watering.

1 tsp mollasses

stage:
week 3 of flowering. 5' 3" height.

So on Thursday I flushed them and gave them full strength GH Grow and 1/4 strength Bloom feed. Today I just gave them plain water w/ mollasses. How long will I start to see results of the last feeding? Are sativas known to require more nitrogen during flowering? My GDP, Hindu Kush + Skunk and OG Kush are doing fine as mentioned. Unfortunately I do not have a PPM/EC meter (yet) which is why I usually lean towards the weaker nute solution strength but today it seems alot more leaves are yellow and at the rate it has been going the past week I'm starting to panic!!

Please advise. Tanks braddahs!!

Click to expand...

The lower leaves are yellowing, because they're shaded, and the one pic shows what looks like black mildew. The plant needs more sunlight, and better air-flow. IMHO

dude, sorry, 14g dried IF that, will begood smoke though

k'den. Here are the pictures. You think it is a micro nute problem?

Does the yellowing start at the stem, tip, edges or all over the plant at the same time?

Did this start happening at the top, bottom or middle of the plant?

Howzit Doc!! I'm seeing two things with my SSH girls:

- The leaves that were already yellow or were in process of turning yellow have edges that are turning brown. The brown/burnt (similar to nute burnt) areas works its way from the edges inwards toward the rest of the leaf. These leafs will in turn start to curl up or down. These leaves feel cool/cold, limp/saturated/soggy feel to them.

- The other leaves that were already yellow or were in process of turning yellow are developing brown/rusty/burnt spots that start inside the leaves (see pic 3) and spreads outward. These leafs feel healthy strong but the brown/rusty spots are dry/brittle....like dead leaves.

These are happening in the middle of the girls. Originally my N defiency affected the whole plant but after my last dose they are noticeably greening up (today) and hardly any leaves are on the ground and the yellow ones still on the girls will not detached when pulled on. Before all the yellow leaves would require just a touch for it to fall/detach off the stems.

Howzit Green! Tanks for the feedback. All my girls are getting enough light so I don't think its that though as a noob I cannot swear on it.I have other girls in the same patch that are doing fine as far as light exposure goes. They are all getting at least 8 hours of direct sunlight.

R1Farmer said:

- The leaves that were already yellow or were in process of turning yellow have edges that are turning brown. The brown/burnt (similar to nute burnt) areas works its way from the edges inwards toward the rest of the leaf. These leafs will in turn start to curl up or down. These leaves feel cool/cold, limp/saturated/soggy feel to them.

- The other leaves that were already yellow or were in process of turning yellow are developing brown/rusty/burnt spots that start inside the leaves (see pic 3) and spreads outward. These leafs feel healthy strong but the brown/rusty spots are dry/brittle....like dead leaves.

Click to expand...

- K def.

- I can't really put my finger on this one. I hope someone else has some ideas what this could be.

Based on the first set of pictures I'd say your running low on magnesium.

There are subtle differences between nitrogen and magnesium deficiency. Nitrogen deficiency usually starts as a over-all lightening of the plant with the lower big leaves yellowing first, and the yellowing of the leaves is much more even across the leaf. Where as a magnesium deficiency can have both light yellow and dark green leaves mixed together. And when the leaves yellow it starts from the tips and edeges and works in with the veins of the leaf staying green till last.


The other reasons I say Magnesium are as follows....


1. Magnesium is used almost as much as the macro nutes N-P-K.

2. Magnesium is the central ion in the chlorophyll molecule. No chlorophyll, no green plant, no matter how much nitrogen.

3. Magnesium is not usually accounted for in most feeding routines. (dolomite lime in soil, Epsom salts in water)



Unfortunately there is not too much you can do to bring back the yellowing leaves. Treating it now will mostly just stop any more leaves from going bad.

I recommend giving 1-2 tsp Epsom salts(magnesium sulfate) per gallon of water along with your normal feedings. Might take a week or two to perk up.

hope that helps.

good luck!