Name That Problem #001
- Thread starter Seamoss
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Labs Dexter
Well-Known Member
It looks like you've a problem with your soil probably drying out, or your not waiting until it's fully drie up
Do you have good extractor fan amd an oscillation fan
Do you have good extractor fan amd an oscillation fan
Labs Dexter
Well-Known Member
And the lower leafs I think with the purpley leaf stem and and burn looking thing is a sign of P or K deff.
The brown blotches like nicotine stained
The brown blotches like nicotine stained
I'm saying the beginning of a Ca and Mg def, probably due to overwatering as others suggest. When the soil is saturated and then thoroughly dries, it swings about a full point of ph. If you keep it constantly moist it's like an acidic soil condition, you're not letting it rise as it dries. Ca/Mg are available at higher ph, so you can prevent that from being available. (See attached chart).
How often do you water? You should water/feed for 20-30% runoff (unless you use a composted, TLO soil). Then let it dry until the container is alarmingly light. Best way to know what this should feel like is to let the soil dry until the leaves droop (wilt). Lift the container to see what that feels like. Then try to let it go *almost* to that lightness. The leaves will bounce back 30 minutes after watering. But, it is stress. I wouldn't do it all the time. It's just a tradeoff (one-time stress to learn versus constant stress from overwatering).
PS: From what I can see, you'd benefit from 30% perlite added to that soil for added drainage, faster drying. If it takes a long time for it to become light (dry) perlite is what you need.
How often do you water? You should water/feed for 20-30% runoff (unless you use a composted, TLO soil). Then let it dry until the container is alarmingly light. Best way to know what this should feel like is to let the soil dry until the leaves droop (wilt). Lift the container to see what that feels like. Then try to let it go *almost* to that lightness. The leaves will bounce back 30 minutes after watering. But, it is stress. I wouldn't do it all the time. It's just a tradeoff (one-time stress to learn versus constant stress from overwatering).
PS: From what I can see, you'd benefit from 30% perlite added to that soil for added drainage, faster drying. If it takes a long time for it to become light (dry) perlite is what you need.
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Seamoss
Member
You're blowing my mind. I water every three days but I left this pot outside in the rain several times so its had more than its share of water. Also, my fish fert is 5-1-1 with no minor nutrients mentioned, need to change that. I saw a bottled water at the store advertising 8ph, maybe I can trigger cal/mag intake.
Do you think that tapwater may have some needed micro nutrients?
Yes, tap will have nutrients. But, may have too much. Do you have a ppm meter? (If not, HM EZ-TDS for $20 on Amazon. You can calibrate it with 1g table salt in 1L distilled water, producing 1000ppm). That would tell you if your tap is safe. It's a problem if it's too high. Mine is 600-800. I dilute it with RO filtered water (dispensing machines) to get 150ppm (0.3 EC). If you're using AK Fish, you could get AK Kelp which has minerals. But, a balanced ferilizer would be better. Use those AK products as supplements. (I use Grow More Sea Grow. It's not entirely synthetic. I like that and supplement with organic goodies. It's cheap. $1 per plant, per grow. A lot of people use Jacks Classic. Similar expense.).
High ph water (like you mention) won't help. Pure water has no buffering and will be pulled to the soil's ph much more than the soil will be pulled to the water. I don't ph my nutrients. But, I do add 1-1.5 Tbsp Hy-Yield Agricultural Lime (dolomite) to 1 gal of soil. That may be crucial to not ph'ing, I don't know.
It's not bad right now. I would let it dry out. What you risk is trying to fix it by pouring more water in. Find out about your water. If you're in the US, your city/provider is required to publish an annual water quality report. You can google for it. Otherwise call them for info.
I would let it dry, and think about what you're going to do for nutrients.
High ph water (like you mention) won't help. Pure water has no buffering and will be pulled to the soil's ph much more than the soil will be pulled to the water. I don't ph my nutrients. But, I do add 1-1.5 Tbsp Hy-Yield Agricultural Lime (dolomite) to 1 gal of soil. That may be crucial to not ph'ing, I don't know.
It's not bad right now. I would let it dry out. What you risk is trying to fix it by pouring more water in. Find out about your water. If you're in the US, your city/provider is required to publish an annual water quality report. You can google for it. Otherwise call them for info.
I would let it dry, and think about what you're going to do for nutrients.