Need Help Not Sure Whats Wrong Leaf

I usually just read the posts, but this time I need some help. I watered my plants last night, and when the lights came on this evening I noticed some issues with some leaves. The issue seems to be on some of the plants, not all of them and not all leaves. I am about 2 weeks into my 12/12 cycle. Last night I watered with some SM-90 (1 tsp per gal) to take care of a fungus gnat issue, and also added some Hi-Brix molasses by Earth Juice (2 tsp per gal) for some extra carb intake. This is my first time using these products. Last watering I used my normal Fox Farm Bloom products, Tiger Bloom and Open Sesame. I usually mix plain water with Fox Farm every other watering. This leaf was from the lower to mid part of the plant. Temp stays in the 70's with light on and 60's when off. Light is 18" away. Any idea what this is? Thanks!
 

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rreign

Active Member
Be sure to check your pH because it looks like there may be some extreme changes going on there. You're in soil, so try to keep it around 6.2 - 6.5ish. Doesn't need to be perfect. Also read these descriptions. I think they may be your real problems


Phosphorus (P) deficiency
Figure 11 is severe phosphorus (P) deficiency during flowering. Fan leaves are dark green or red/purple, and may turn yellow. Leaves may curl under, go brown and die. Small-formed buds are another main symptom.
Phosphorus deficiencies exhibit slow growing, weak and stunted plants with dark green or purple pigmentation in older leaves and stems.
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Purpling: accumulation of anthocyanin pigments; causes an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint, and is the common sign of phosphate deficiency. Some plant species and varieties respond to phosphate deficiency by yellowing instead of purpling. Purpling is natural to some healthy ornamentals.

Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in Figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
 
Thanks for the feedback. The Open Sesame is 5-45-19 with .05 in mag. The plants shouldnt be needing an P or Mn unless they are having intake problems. I will try the epsom salt. Is there any possible negative effects to adding the epsom salt? Also, has anybody tried the Earth Juice molasses before?
 

rreign

Active Member
You make a good point with the epsom salt. I guess I overlooked it. So your problem could be nute blockout caused by the sudden changes, ie the addition of the molasses. I couldn't be sure though. I don't know much about soil to be honest. I'm a hydro guy. I could only suggest a nute flush with some good pH'd water, then just water like normal with no added nutes for a couple of days. See where that gets you. Atleast then, you could start your nutes over and you would know if anything you added was causing the problem.
 
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