New to wagos

Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by KonopCh, Jan 12, 2018.

  1.  
    KonopCh

    KonopCh Well-Known Member

    Little help please, guys.

    I want to replace these: [​IMG]

    With two slots wagos.

    I guess wiring is the same... example: blue to blue, red to red... in the same wago?
    They're rated for 250V... I have 230V at the wall, so this is completly safe?

    Another question, as I ordered only two slots wagos... Can I put two tiny wires from two computer fans together and wire them into one two-slot wago? So two fans on one 12V 1A adaptor with one wago.
     
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  2.  
    Rahz

    Rahz Well-Known Member Rollitup Advertiser

    No, yes and yes.

    One Wago for the blue wires and one Wago for the red wires, etc. but you can put multiple wires in the same terminal slot.
     
  3.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member


    For DIY I still like these guys. Always use an appropriate gauge though. I like them because they have a screw hole and can be secured to the case,
     
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  4.  
    KonopCh

    KonopCh Well-Known Member

    That I was thinking, yes.
    Thank you.
     
  5.  
    Fubard

    Fubard Well-Known Member

    Be aware that this type of wago will ONLY do solid cable, Flex can only be used if you "tin" the ends.

    [​IMG]

    Use the following for flexible cables.

    [​IMG]
     
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  6.  
    KonopCh

    KonopCh Well-Known Member

    Yea, I've got those grey/orange at the bottom. Thanks!!
     
  7.  
    KonopCh

    KonopCh Well-Known Member

    Wagos received and installed. Can anyone help me with grounding? MW driver is outside of the tent, mounted at the wall. I am from EU.

    This is how I wire now...

    [​IMG]


    If I understand right, I just need to put new wire (purple on picture) from "ground wires wago" to my alumminium somewhere on light?

    [​IMG]
     
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  8.  
    Randomblame

    Randomblame Well-Known Member


    Yepp! That works!
     
  9.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member

    Look at the application data for your driver relating to mounting. I see many people mounting to non thermally conductive boards without taking this into account.
    Most electronics will have a datasheet and an application note to download somewhere.
     
  10.  
    KonopCh

    KonopCh Well-Known Member

    I guess if MW driver is mounted at the heatsink inside the tent, then second picture is not needed, right? Because MW drivers has "grounded legs" at the bottom.
    Btw, can I do this (second pic) with 2-slot wago? So 3 wires inside it.

    Not sure if I understand what you mean. Sorry, not USA guy here. Driver is MW HLG-240H-C1050A.
     
  11.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member

    are you screwing it into a metal board?
     
  12.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member

  13.  
    KonopCh

    KonopCh Well-Known Member

    Read post above.
     
  14.  
    Fubard

    Fubard Well-Known Member

    What's your output voltage? Under 120vdc is classed as SELV, Safety Extra Low Voltage, so does not need earthing.

    But it's best to be safe rather than sorry, so you can run one and if you can fit two wires into one wago slot that is fine.

    (Electrician in EU for 30 years, used to petrochemical and nuclear industry where earthing standards are MUCH higher than is necessary for your install)
     
  15.  
    Randomblame

    Randomblame Well-Known Member


    Yes and yes, if they fit properly into the slot you can twist two wire ends together.
     
  16.  
    Randomblame

    Randomblame Well-Known Member

    Yeah, but the dc output of this HLG-240 has 238vdc/1,05Amps. Also when you get 120vac from the wall grounding is a good idea, IMO.
     
  17.  
    Fubard

    Fubard Well-Known Member

    That's why I asked about the output voltage, and 120vac 60hz is not the same as 120vdc.

    Here in Euroland it's 230vac 50hz from the wall, and anything over 50vac must be earthed unless fully double insulated.

    But, as I say, best to be safe than sorry as you can still get a bit of a tickle even on 50vdc.
     
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  18.  
    Rahz

    Rahz Well-Known Member Rollitup Advertiser

    I've always used ring connectors and screws secured to the enclosure or frame, no wago or 3 way connection necessary. One potential issue would be a frame build where the struts don't touch the contact points. In principal, if the frame is mounted to a connected metal surface it should be okay, but it's such little cost to build some redundancy I think it's worth doing.
     
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  19.  
    Fubard

    Fubard Well-Known Member

    Wagos are easier, and although any sort of fixed based connector gives you a better looking end result it also depends on one thing.

    Vibration.

    You have connectors fixed to the frame then any vibration from the fans will be transmitted into to connectors and, in time, they will work loose. That's why it's preferable to use push in spring type connectors as, no matter what, they'll never come loose whereas any type of screw connection always will come loose at some point unless you drop some super glue on them.

    And if you're using flex cable, you just have to tin the ends and push them into the spring type connector, no worries about a single strand poking out and shorting somewhere. Try that with a screw connector and you get the "cold flow" of solder thanks to the pressure from the screw and that can give you a bad connection.

    So if there's any vibration from fans, it's always best to use some sort of spring loaded connector over every type of screw connection to ensure your connection stays solid no matter what.
     
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  20.  
    Rahz

    Rahz Well-Known Member Rollitup Advertiser

    Spring connectors don't provide a ground contact which is the point of using a screw. Screws work fine if used properly, but if some glue provides peace of mind I'm all for it. If the screw is in a block of aluminum, tighten it down well. It's very likely not coming loose despite whatever vibration is present. If it's a through hole, hand tighten the screw. Hold the screw securely with the driver and wrench down the nut. It will be so secure the screw will strip if you attempt to loosen from the screw side. It's not going to vibrate loose. Nuts come loose when they aren't tightened properly.
     
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