New vero cob substituted in, less wattage overall now, help!

Halfandhalf

Halfandhalf

Well-Known Member
So I had 3 vero 29 3500k 80cri SE, B@50v,1.4a running at 220 watts measured at the ac side. I bought 3 more vero 29's 3000k 90 cri B@50v,1.4a to build a new fixture and I put one of the 3ks in the middle of the old fixture and one of the 35ks in the new fixture. It looks great but I lost 20 watts on the old fixture with the new cob in there. Considering they are supposedly the same voltage why would this happen? Is it possible I wired something incorrectly? The new vero that was not SE came with a pico connector/molex that had stranded wire that barely fit into the other SE's. I was using all 22awg before and the pico connector wire is 18. I plan on upgrading to all 18 awg solid core down the line and soldering instead of using the picos and also taking the driver off my fixture and connecting the dimming leads together for both as well as the power meter connected to both. But for now I just wanna figure out where that 20 watts went. Any ideas? Can post pictures later if anyone's interested.
 
Halfandhalf

Halfandhalf

Well-Known Member
Jesus they sent me version D. I only read the order form and installed them but I just read the cobs and they are clearly version D. Ordered from rapidled. This sucks. Hope they can exchange them.
 
Halfandhalf

Halfandhalf

Well-Known Member
In case anyone wants to order from rapidled they did get back to me and gave me two options, keep them for 50% off or send them back when the new ones arrive.

Peace
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Halfandhalf said:
So I had 3 vero 29 3500k 80cri SE, B@50v,1.4a running at 220 watts measured at the ac side. I bought 3 more vero 29's 3000k 90 cri B@50v,1.4a to build a new fixture and I put one of the 3ks in the middle of the old fixture and one of the 35ks in the new fixture. It looks great but I lost 20 watts on the old fixture with the new cob in there. Considering they are supposedly the same voltage why would this happen? Is it possible I wired something incorrectly? The new vero that was not SE came with a pico connector/molex that had stranded wire that barely fit into the other SE's. I was using all 22awg before and the pico connector wire is 18. I plan on upgrading to all 18 awg solid core down the line and soldering instead of using the picos and also taking the driver off my fixture and connecting the dimming leads together for both as well as the power meter connected to both. But for now I just wanna figure out where that 20 watts went. Any ideas? Can post pictures later if anyone's interested.
Click to expand...
22g is rather small for 1.4 Amps:
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

18 g would be much better, but solid core is not necessary, IMO. Harder to work with for one. I solder all of my connections.
 
NoFucks2Give

NoFucks2Give

Well-Known Member
nfhiggs said:
22g is rather small for 1.4 Amps:
Click to expand...
Your link says 22g is good for 7 amps. Unless you are running it for power transmission lines rather than chassis wiring.

For example Molex provides the Pico-EZmate Harness for Vero which uses 28 gauge for 2.1 Amp. Are you saying Molex and Bridgelux don't know what they are doing?
 
Halfandhalf

Halfandhalf

Well-Known Member
My pico connector wire is 18 awg, but ya they do offer up to 28. I also looked at that wire gauge link before and also concluded that I was fine at 22 for up to 7 amps but wasn't sure what power transmission line meant. So it just means an outdoor transmission line?
 
NoFucks2Give

NoFucks2Give

Well-Known Member
Halfandhalf said:
So it just means an outdoor transmission line?
Click to expand...
Yes, long haul transmission. The concern is the resistance raising the wattage and temperature of the wire. The longer the wire the higher the resistance. The higher the resistance, the higher the watts. Higher watts = higher heat.
There will be no problem with 22 gauge.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top