lukio
Well-Known Member
hmm tricky one...
just realised my ambient is 71. i live in the cold and run led all year no probs. 1200w per 4x8 and 6 inch extraction. my areas sit around 83/4 at the mo.
your plants look happy though! nice
Not enough heat in my Bloom Room Since replacing HPS with LED. Had to switch back.
- Thread starter Strudelheim
- Start date
just realised my ambient is 71. i live in the cold and run led all year no probs. 1200w per 4x8 and 6 inch extraction. my areas sit around 83/4 at the mo.
your plants look happy though! nice
Strudelheim
Well-Known Member
According to that chart I am nailing VPD, 70-73F @ 55-65RH
Strudelheim
Well-Known Member
I always say, the best light is the one that best fits your situation, and air temperature is a primary factor in my opinion. Some people run LED in the summer and HPS/CMH for winter. Low to mid 80's at roughly 50-65% humidity is best with LED. What is your humidity? It's important with LED, have a look.
Humidity is 55-60%. Like you said most likely that is what I need to do, run HPS/CMH in deep winter, HPS/LED in fall/spring, and CMH/LED in summer. Good thing I didn't sell my HPS's !!
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Cmh combines really well with led. They have much less IR than led so they can grow fine at led temps.
Strudelheim
Well-Known Member
Yes I have ran this exact clone before. I would have remembered if it was scraggily thin and looking like a week 3 plant on week 5, I probably would have tossed it and not bothered running it again!
Sorry I never heard low temps were good for LED. For HPS that has always been the battle and the goal, So it takes some adjustment to change your entire mentality after going to LED and now its, you want 85F!!
Strudelheim
Well-Known Member
You mean to say, cmh has much less IR than HPS right? but agreed very similar to LED, I mean it is easy to understand that a 630W CMH puts out similar to 1000HPS, that 370W extra is all that IR and heat the HPS adds. But instead of seeing it as waste, I now appreciate it and know there is a time and a place, and in my case, unfortunately, it is the majority of the year.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I'd just use your 240 boards lengthwise across the shorter side of your area and stagger 2x 400w hps between 3x 240w qbs
Strudelheim
Well-Known Member
You def have a lot of LED Watts in that space. I always thought a 480w HLG550 is good for 4x4, but I suppose it can be pushed to 600 watts, Greenegenes has that setup I think.
I also have this big room of 12x10 Feet. And it is an outside corner room, that gets no sunlight hitting its walls except for 3-6pm.
If I had a room that was perfectly purpose-built - sealed off and insulated and was the same size as my canopy of 9 Feet x 4 FT, like yours then I guess my temps would be higher too?
Strudelheim
Well-Known Member
I will take a pic of the room today, since Im getting so many comments.
lukio
Well-Known Member
yeah i went for more weed over energy saving...its probs the difference in heat i guess. maybe add another board for better spread and more heat?
Strudelheim
Well-Known Member
Trying to make the air volume of the space smaller is challenging, because whatever you put up, you need to remove on a daily basis to get access. And unless its fairly air tight it is useless because my hurricane fan circulates air throughout the room fairly well.
My game plan now is to use the HPS/LED combo, and let temps go to 80F. But if I replaced the HPS with CMH that would lower my temps by 6F, which brings me to 74F which is too low now! So I will need to stay with HPS, and increase the exhaust fan to keep it at 80, until I'm close to peak summer. Then switch to CMH, and lower exhaust fan and then I should achieve the 78-82F Range for my CMH/LED setup.
And to think I used to run my HPS lights at nighttime, with window wide open, and exhaust fan cranked to the point it sounded like a jet engine in the house!
Now I will be running during the day, with windows closed, and exhaust turned down to 10% just to get ideal temps! I guess that's progress.
Herb & Suds
Well-Known Member
Uhm
not sure about your location but most power companies offer lower rates during off peak hours
I would seek a solution that allows your room to be maxed during those times
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
You say you vegged well with the 550, is that also 3k?
Any observations to node spacing before you flipped?
Is your main gripe apart from having to raise room temp the fact they are sticks with buds on rather than full stacked up colas?
Just wondering if its just a veg issue, not stacking up properly, been elongated.
Going back to my old HID days the difference between me and most my mates was I used MH or CMH for veg and they stuck to just HPS through the whole grow.
I always had well stacked colas in comparison to their spread out buds and obviously I pulled more weight.
Wondering how your grow had say 4k LED or CMH/MH in veg.
Strudelheim
Well-Known Member
Main gripe is that they look like they are at 3 weeks, when they are at 5 weeks. In all aspects. I really wonder what would have happened if I didn't put the HPS back, and temps continued at 70F. How would they have turned out? At the rate they have been going it would have been not triple or quads or doubles, but singles for sure. I will definitely to a side by side in different environments to test this variable. I just can't do it right now with 12 big plants.
The reason I thought 70F would be ok in bloom, was because I was actually very happy with the growth rates and internodal spacing and plant size during VEG, It was actually turning out to be one of my best runs in a long time and I was excited that I had such a solid VEG and thought they would turn out great. Hence the results were so heartbreaking, all that hard work felt wasted from in a matter of weeks of 70F in bloom. No one else is chiming in saying they got decent results with LEDS and 70F, so I'm assuming that its not possible, hence my results. I hope they bounce back with the HPS, and that they will somehow catch up. I am ok with them taking longer to finish and bulk up. I am just under the impression that the first few weeks flip are the most important. And since my first 5 weeks were not good, I am concerned that it will all be trash. Sorry to be so negative but I have had more bad experiences then good so thats why I am just being realistic with my expectations on past outcomes.
The HLG550 is 4K. thats what I vegged with. had it turned down to 350W covering a 4 by 4 area.
hybridway2
Amare Shill
I used to hate when x5 , 8" fans attached to the ceiling would kick on for 12 hrs.
Yeah, talk about a jet taking off, exactly but for 12 hrs straight just to exhaust hoods.
I've built a few tents out of PandaWrap for people. A simple Zipper is a you need. They even make them with a velcro flap that prevents light from entering
hybridway2
Amare Shill
Yup, soon as i heard that i switched from day to night. Also to take advantage of the cooler temps.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Exactly why I run 9pm to 9am
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
Well if you've had negative results, you gota report negative results man, better that than BS yourself or others.
You can only tell it how you see it.
I Know plant metabolism slows down considerably when things are cold, just never seen it happen while they still look so healthy and happy. Normally you see deficiencies and sad looking plants..
Only guy I know who grows awesome in cold is @Moflow but not sure if he's 70f cold.
ANC
Well-Known Member
I plan to insulate my grow a bit better an actually add a heater ON A CONTROLER to the grow or maybe I should try the heating function on my A/C
I want to cover as much of the floor with light as I can, seeing that I'm sitting on LED inventory I can't move under lockdown. Which justified running the A/C more than just running a few sq ft
The great thing about my grow system and the lower cost Samsungs is they pay for themselves with one cycle.
I want to cover as much of the floor with light as I can, seeing that I'm sitting on LED inventory I can't move under lockdown. Which justified running the A/C more than just running a few sq ft
The great thing about my grow system and the lower cost Samsungs is they pay for themselves with one cycle.
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
LED needs 40.w sq/ft of the best Samsung/Osram Diodes.
HID watts optimum is 62.5w Sq/Ft.
My Gavita 1700E pulls 645w, and is 1700umol. It is specifically made to replace the best HID in a 4 x 4 area.
I also use a 1000w Hortilux HPS and its 1600umol. Hortilux is the best Single Ended bulb made, and is also geared to a 4 x 4 area.. Regardless of type of Single Ended HID. Halide/CMH included. None have as much umol v 1000w Hortilux HPS.
I like temps no lower than 74 at lights off, and 78-84 lights on, and alot of Fresh airflow. The lower the temps, the less food, and water they use. If they dont drink and eat alot, they will logically grow slower, and if you feed full strength risk burning them.
Lower temps = Slower Metabolism. I also like to keep a breeze on them 24/7, even when lights off. I want to see leaves slightly moving. If not, air flow isnt good enough. Also makes for stronger stems, and stalks = bigger buds.
HID watts optimum is 62.5w Sq/Ft.
My Gavita 1700E pulls 645w, and is 1700umol. It is specifically made to replace the best HID in a 4 x 4 area.
I also use a 1000w Hortilux HPS and its 1600umol. Hortilux is the best Single Ended bulb made, and is also geared to a 4 x 4 area.. Regardless of type of Single Ended HID. Halide/CMH included. None have as much umol v 1000w Hortilux HPS.
I like temps no lower than 74 at lights off, and 78-84 lights on, and alot of Fresh airflow. The lower the temps, the less food, and water they use. If they dont drink and eat alot, they will logically grow slower, and if you feed full strength risk burning them.
Lower temps = Slower Metabolism. I also like to keep a breeze on them 24/7, even when lights off. I want to see leaves slightly moving. If not, air flow isnt good enough. Also makes for stronger stems, and stalks = bigger buds.