Organic guerrilla on the move?

What I mean by the title is from what I hear/read is in most cases you plant 3 to 5 plants in a spot the 50 yards away in another spot in some brush. A lot of people dig a few feet x a foot deep then teal it up and add a 10 10 10 fert. You know to be fast. What is the best way to make a none fertlizing soil in those different spots. They may be to vague or to broad of a question. Tell me whats up.

if you want to lug compost, guanos and other amendments out into the woods, you could go that route. but you could easily amend the soil with peat moss and rotted leaves, then take compost tea out to your plants. either way, thats going to be a bunch of crap to carry on your back. you can modify a simple metal framed back pack to carry a 5g jug of water/compost tea. but thats pretty heavy. im a big, strong guy and packing a 5g jug of water over rough terrain is not fun. a tip: fill the jug to the very top, the sloshing water in a partially filled jug can throw you off balance. you want as rich a soil as you can make if you aren't using fertilizers.

Thanks SCCA. On one hand I want yards of the tallest nothernlights and on the other I dont want to be caught. Im doing this nex summer so I got minute to get my ducks in row. Should I wait until nex summer an use a soil mix that will only last the season or should I amend soil so that it want be ready until nex year. I thought about using ocean forest/happy frog, but I had a gnat problem last time I used ocean forest. Im kind of at a lost here, but I think my main problem is that Im thinking too much about it.

If you're doing this on your own and you have a year, then I would suggest you go about things in the following order:

Day 1-10: Find spots that you are going to grow in. Don't take the same path for two spots, completely separate spots means less chance of losing your whole grow... shit happens. Near a water a source! Do you want to go on a 1-5 hour hike (depending on number of sites) with a shit ton of water... no.
Day 11: Put something that you think people would steal or tamper with (clothes of some sort usually does the trick) in your potential grow spot.
Day 12-End of month 1: Check the spot once every week (try not to make noticeable tracks to your spot) to see if anyone has been to your area. If they have, abandon it.
End of Month 1: Have a soil recipe tilled for your super soil, have enough bags to put base soil over the super soil. If the soil doesn't freeze, cooking it for an extended period of time will do no harm.
Month 2: If you need to, find new spots. If you don't, dig! And secure your grow area from deer and other wildlife.
Month 3: Keep diggin' if necessary!
Month 4: Time to put in the soil! I personally do a 50/50 mix with subcool's super soil on the bottom and base soil on top. You just need to add water, as he reassures you multiple times. I personally grow in a hole in my backyard as well as some indoor with this recipe, very happy results. Your biggest difficulty is going to be transporting it, but you have a year so this is feasible.
Month 5: You're probably going to still be carrying soil up
Month 6: Yeah... probably going to still be doing this. Don't go every day. You will start making noticable tracks if you go every day. Let the foliage recover before you venture out each time. Once a week should be fine, you have time.
Month 7: Finish up putting in soil (probably won't take this long)
Beginning of month 8 (or earlier): Germ those seeds, plant in starter medium indoor, take them out in batches of 5 (for each grow spot), try to hit up every grow spot in the week. Bring large buckets that can stack into each other so it can fit in your backpack. Fill each bucket with the water from your nearby source and bring them to their respective grow spots.
Middle of month 8-12/13: Water your plants as is necessary.
Month 13/14- Harvest... this is gonna be a real bitch, but you can go to your spot as much as possible (probably want to do this at night with a headlamp).

thats a pretty nice schedule mccumcumber. i would add that you should look for evergreens around your grow site to provide late fall cover. you have enough time to take some cuttings, start some seeds, or even transplant some things to give you better cover at your site.

I can not remember were I read about this grower that would transplant thorn bushes near his spot.

yep thats the idea, with a year to prep you could set yourself up with with some pretty decent cover. research some of your local plants and figure out which ones are fast growing, evergreen, and native or at least non-invasive.

Zcomfort said:

I can not remember were I read about this grower that would transplant thorn bushes near his spot.

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“One of my favorite tricks is to plant where there are lots of mosquitoes,” said Steve with a snicker,

“If I can find a place with wasps, too. That’s a double whammy. I think the best site I ever found was next to a skunk’s den, around a skunk spray. I had to smear the inside of my nose with Vicks Vapor Rub to keep from smelling the skunk spray. Nobody went around there!”

“I plant deep inside patches of poison oak, poison ivy or my favorite: stinging nettles. I save seeds and broadcast them. I just cover any exposed skin with a slick rain suit and gloves to protect me. I wash the suit afterward to get rid of the oils. It’s a great way to keep lightweights away from the patch!” said Steve with a smirk, “if there’s a thief that wants my plants, it will cost them!”

Ideal “trails” are “invisible,” have dense undergrowth and lots of sunlight. Growers walk up river and creek beds to avoid detection. Rapid plant growth will erase any damage to the vegetation between trips. Some growers lightly fertilize their trail if they use it more than a few times, but are careful – wild plants are easy to overfertilize. Other growers never take the same path to their gardens and do everything possible to avoid damaging foliage. In late summer and early fall, damaged foliage usually will not regrow. Big Steve always asks himself: Can I see the trail I just made? If not, great, if so hide it! The more difficult it is for you to get to the site, the less likely someone else will try.