PH rise, EC rise, less water usage

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
1 gram of epsom salt per gallon of RO will net you 26ppm Mag and 34ppm sulfur. IDK if that would be helpful to know when mixing a foliar spray.
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
If I were you though, I'd use the AN until I could get a new line of nutes. FWIW, I'm having FANTASTIC results mixing my own from salts. When doing it this way, you know how much PPM of this and that element is going into your mix and for all of the macros and secondaries, you can adjust as needed which gives the grower a leg up on everything. Plus also, buying into salts is cheap and you get many years supply of nutes with just a small investment. I just harvested this a few hours ago. It's under flushed, but very healthy otherwise.

1.jpg
 

foliage2018

Well-Known Member
Morning update: EC slightly rised, PH slightly rised, water usage +- the same, Mg deficiency spreading

I am dumping the water in the res tank now. Then I will mix just a 3part with RO water (0,5EC).

Skybound420: I am not that experienced to have a brave to mix my own nutes. I just want nutes designed for growing weed in hydroponics that work. And as I need to choose from EU market, there is not that wide range as on the US market. I was using Canna nutes when I was growing in soil and Coco with fantastic results. But I don't like their "canna boost" - it is expensive and it made a green film everywhere (tank, tubes, trays). This blend also clogged Autopot's Aqua Valves.
 
Last edited:

foliage2018

Well-Known Member
what nutes brands does your shop carry? see if they have Hesi, they are from Holland and top quality
Yes, they got HESI. Do you have any experience with Canna? I had awesome results when using them in soil and coco. 1g/w when I was using autopots with coco/perlite and Canna nutes.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Yes, they got HESI. Do you have any experience with Canna? I had awesome results when using them in soil and coco. 1g/w when I was using autopots with coco/perlite and Canna nutes.
i have not tried Canna. if you have like them before, try their hydro formula. isn't it called canna aqua?

another good one part is GH floranova bloom.

i'm a big fan of GH maxi series. dry powder. don't pay for the nute companies to put their own water in
 

foliage2018

Well-Known Member
i have not tried Canna. if you have like them before, try their hydro formula. isn't it called canna aqua?

another good one part is GH floranova bloom.

i'm a big fan of GH maxi series. dry powder. don't pay for the nute companies to put their own water in
Canna Hydro - Aqua is for aquaponics...they also have hydro nutes for hard water as well as RO water

I have GH floranova, but they are organics on the EU market and when I was testing them along AN 3part, plants didn't look as great as those grown by AN.
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
IDK what the EU has in terms of selection of nutrient salts, but all brands are made from the same components. Irregardless, if you want, you can do this with any brand on the market except AN at least due to their secretive analysis. Just as long as you can track down the percentages of each bottle, you can input these data points into Hydro Buddy (HB), then with HB, you can target each element, and HB will output how much of each of your liquids is needed to achieve the levels you targeted. Being able to target different elements enables the grower to accentuate the feed based on known needs like elevated N for veg and early bloom, elevated P and K for mid bloom and diminished N and P for end bloom all while also having full control of things like Ca, Mg, S, Si, Fe.

I don't want to over sell you on this because I myself only have about 4 months experience with customizable nutrients, but I guarantee that with HB, you have full control of your levels which is never a bad thing. Nutrient lines kind of aim to feed all types of crops while being good for none. Other growers on RIU have enlightened me to the fact that perfect canna feed is very mild. All of my mixes range from 0.9 EC to 1.1 which translates to my meter as 730 ppm at 0.5 conversion factor at the most.

IMO, targeted feed regimens are intentional and precise whereas brands and feed charts are generic which usually ends up with everything being doled out too heavily which stunts plant growth WHILE ensuring you deplete those nutes quicker so you can get to the hydro shop to buy more more more. With HB, you can probably get 40% more growing out of everything.

I made a tutorial for using HB on 420mag. It's a bit tricky of an app, but it's free and does all of the math needed, so I'm not complaining.

https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/making-your-own-nutrient-concentrates.455187/
 

foliage2018

Well-Known Member
I got it. The reason why I choose to use AN is their statement about blending nutes straight for cannabis. They say cannabis needs potassium much more than everyone is saying.

Sooooo... Firstly I need to perfectly handle flood and drain system w/o any problems, then I can try and play with my own nute blend.
But I very appreciate you show me something new to think about. As a MacOS user I can't use HB without absolving difficult way to install it.
But! Is HB .exe installation on Windows PC? I could use Wineskin to run it.
 

shawnery

Well-Known Member
AN is full of shit, they are all full of shit.

If you don't want to mix you own go half way with dry mix, calnit and epsom. The most used one with the most info is Jack's pro hydro but I use Masterblend. With sky's help I finally have the numbers dialed in.
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
You're right about K, and all lines have high K, maybe not the best ratio for canna, but very high K. Here are some charts I found on the web or compiled with HB. Because I used GH 3 part, I have a lot and added all the contents to the app, then looked at what they look like compared to some other charts I've found. GH full strength is through the roof. The ranges pic are targets that another experienced grower shared with me throughout a multi day Q&A session and so far are proving to be flawless for what I'm growing (Cheese and Pineapple Chunk).

The majority of posts I see using AN have good results so IDK why you're not. But it is sad that you're unable to research what you're using. I get that they have a proprietary blend of chelates in their PH perfect lines, but they should at least release the elemental percentages.

I think HB only runs on Win or Linux, so you'll need to run a virtual machine to use. After reading the instructions, aparently you can install Lazurus on your apple, then with it compile and install the app on your machine using the HB source code. Just download the source code, then click the link that explains how to install and use Lazurus.

https://scienceinhydroponics.com/2016/03/the-first-free-hydroponic-nutrient-calculator-program-o.html


Ranges and Targets.JPG

Example Charts.JPG
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
Seeing as you're in flood and drain, what media are you using, rockwool? Roots in a chute? Clay Pebbles? I use croutons, in a pot, then stack that on a tote for the res. A bit costly in height, but other than that grrrrrrrreat!
 

foliage2018

Well-Known Member
Seeing as you're in flood and drain, what media are you using, rockwool? Roots in a chute? Clay Pebbles? I use croutons, in a pot, then stack that on a tote for the res. A bit costly in height, but other than that grrrrrrrreat!
Clay pebbles (hydroton) in a net pot. Every net pot in a single bucket. Roots are just hanging outside the net pot.
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
Clay pebbles (hydroton) in a net pot. Every net pot in a single bucket. Roots are just hanging outside the net pot.
So net pots in a rail/plastic enclosure like a pipe to hold the pots? It sounds very similar to DWC from what you described. None the less, with multiple plants on a single reservoir, you open yourself up to a bit more liability in that if one gets pythium, they all die, so I hope you're using beneficial bacteria.

How often do you recirculate, and how long is each feeding? A system like that also has a fine line between wet and dry and if either is breached, you'll get problems too.
 

foliage2018

Well-Known Member
This system: https://www.alienhydroponics.co.uk/alien-hydroponics-shop/flood-drain/flood-drain-20ltr/48-pot-flood-drain-99-101-102-detail.html

I was using voodoo juice (beneficials) as the feedchart recommends. Not anymore in flowering.
Flooding cycle takes about 26min, frequency is every 2h when the lights are on. I was using this set up from nearly beginning.

I was searching for the first sign of problems when it comes to nutes. The first EC rise came one or two days after adding Big Bud to the res. Maybe it's not a coincidence.
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
Your system should be keeping your roots wet and oxygenated enough and your frequency looks good overall. Do the roots look healthy and white? If you get pythium, the roots look like lo mein, really snotty and brown. You definitely don't want that shit.

Beyond that, I'd suggest searching this and other forums for AN users and see if you can pair your symptoms with photos in those threads. Without knowing how much of each element, or having the ability to find that information out, you're pretty much constrained to interpreting plant language which itself can be a crap shoot because if something is toxic and it locks out something else and you treat the deficiency, you could easily overdo that element and lock out something else and the snowball effect would then be the rule.
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
My bad dude, I just went back to page one to look at those pics again and your issues are very minimal. Your damage looks a lot like K problems.


Nutrient Deficiencies and Excesses.jpg
 

foliage2018

Well-Known Member
The roots look OK, stained a bit by nutrients but no symptoms close to pythium. I always kept the res temp under 22 celsius (18-22 mostly) and properly aerated.

It definitely cannot be K def - as you know I am using all that K rich nutes.
Those issues are not minimal anymore... almost 50% fan leaves are fully or partialy damaged.
 
Top